Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지

A Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics of Contemporary Fashion that Uses Artificial Light

인공적인 빛을 활용한 현대 패션의 미적 특성 연구

  • Jung, Hyun (Dept. of Fashion Design, Daegu University) ;
  • Geum, Key-Sook (Dept. of Textile Art & Fashion Design, Hong-Ik University)
  • 정현 (대구대학교 패션디자인학과) ;
  • 금기숙 (홍익대학교 섬유미술.패션디자인과)
  • Published : 2008.05.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Artificial lights have effected the changes of art and fashion concepts as well as human life since the invention of electric light bulb in late 19th century. Artist and designer have had more interested in these artificial lights as the development of digital technology and the change of millennium and they have tried to apply the lights into their works. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of contemporary fashion design using artificial light as a medium. Artificial light for fashion design means the light using luminescent material like phosphorescent and fluorescent materials or in combination with electroluminescent digital technology or the light that can be perceived as images when light projects from media using a light projector or other digital equipment. Fashion design using this light type can change colors or form temporarily and it can playa role as a gadget for hm or as equipment to provide information much as a computer monitor does. And designer can create virtual patterns on the surface of clothes, or virtual fashion like a 3-dimensional holography in empty space. In these fashion designs, the virtual image of light is substituted for physical formative elements in fashion, and the viewer can experience an ambiguity between reality and virtuality. The results of the study were as follow; The formative characteristics of those fashion designs were identified as visibility, indeterminacy, integration and virtuality. And they reflected the internal meanings; the persue of protection and safety, the search for experiment and innovation, the will for interaction and communication and the desire for the deviation and fun.

Keywords

References

  1. Dejean, Joan (2005). The Essence of Style. 최은영 역 (2005). 스타일 나다. 서울: 지안출판사, pp. 248-253
  2. Schivelbusch, Wolfgang (1983). Lichtblicke, Zur Ges- chichte der künstlichen Helligkeit im 19 Jahrhundert. Davies, Angela 역 (1995). Disenchanted Night. Cali- fornia: The University of California, pp. 143-150
  3. Schivelbusch, Wolfgang. (1983). Lichtblicke, Zur Ges- chichte der künstlichen Helligkeit im 19 Jahrhundert. Davies, Angela 역 (1995). Disenchanted Night. Cali- fornia: The University of California, p. 70
  4. 자료검색일 2007. 4. 19, 자료출처 http://www.moma.org/collection
  5. Weibel, Peter & Jansen, Gregor(Eds.) (2006). Lic- htkunst aus kundstlicht. Ostfildern: Hatje Cantz Verlag. pp. 50-51
  6. 1982년판 영화 Tron의 한 장면, 자료검색일 2007. 11. 12, 자료출처 http://www.graphpaper.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2007/08/tron_user.jpg
  7. Schivelibusch, Wolfgang. (1983). Lichtblicke, Zur Ges- chichte der künstlichen Helligkeit im 19 Jahrhundert. Davies, Angela 역 (1995). Disenchanted Night. Cali- fornia: The University of California, p. 71
  8. Humphreys, Richard (1999). Futurism. 하계훈 역 (2003). 퓨처리즘. 경기도: 열화당, pp. 20-24
  9. 김호영 (2001). 영상매체와 이미지적 사유. 아카필로, 2001.11/12 No.7. 서울: 산해, p. 83
  10. Virilio, Paul (1989). Esthetique de la Disparition, 김경은 역 (2004). 소멸의 미학. 서울 : 연세대학교 출판부. p. 99
  11. 월간미술편저 (1989). 세계미술용어사전. 서울: 중앙일보사, p. 100
  12. Popper, Frank (1975). Die Kinetische Kunst. Licht und Bewegung, Umweltkunst und Aktion. Köln: DuMont Schauberg, pp. 61-72
  13. Popper, Frank (1997). Art of the Electronic Age. 박숙영 역 (1999). 전자시대의 예술. 서울: 예경, p. 29
  14. 남은정 (1993). 20세기 Light Art의 경향. 이화여자대학교 석사학위논문, p. 24
  15. 박원규 (2006). 매체미술에서 라이트아트에 관한 연구. 청주대학교 석사학위논문, pp. 26-34
  16. 장승효 (2001). 테크놀로지아트의 상호소통에 대한 연구. 홍익대학교 석사학위논문, p. i
  17. Wosk, Julie (2001). Women and the Machine: Re- presentations from the Spinning Wheel to the Electronic Age. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press, p. 73
  18. Schivelbusch, Wolfgang. (1983). Lichtblicke, Zur Ges- chichte der künstlichen Helligkeit im 19 Jahrhundert. Davies, Angela 역 (1995). Disenchanted Night. Cali- fornia: The University of California, p. 72
  19. Lee, Suzanne (2005). Fashioning the Future, To- morrow's Wardrobe. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 99
  20. Wosk, Julie. (2001). Women and the Machine: Re- presentations from the Spinning Wheel to the Electronic Age. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press, p. 74
  21. Stern, Radu (2004). Against Fashion, Clothing as Art, 1850-1930. Massachusetts: The MIT Press, p. 32
  22. Blum, Dilys E. (2003). Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli. London: Yale Univer- sity Press, p. 186
  23. 자료검색일 2007. 12. 21, 자료출처 Modern Mechanix and Invention. 1932년 12월호, http://blog.modernmechanix.com/issue/?magname=ModernMechanix&magdate=12-1932
  24. Loenthal, Joel (1990). Radical Rags, Fashion of the Sixties. NY: Abbeville Press, p. 100
  25. Deloffre, Claude (1998)(Eds.). Thierry Mugler. Lon- don: Thames & Hudson, p. 56
  26. Kamitsis, Lydia (1996). Paco Rabbanne, a feeling for research. Paris: Michel Lafon, p. 151
  27. Loenthal, Joel, (1990). Radical Rags, Fashion of the Sixties. NY: Abbeville Press, pp. 101-103
  28. Turn In, Turn Off (1967. 1. 20). TIME. 자료검색일 2007. 11. 12, 자료출처 http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,843346,00.html
  29. 자료검색일 2007. 4. 19, 자료출처 http://enlighted.com/pages/events2004sigg.shtml
  30. 자료검색일 2007. 12. 21, 자료출처http://www.dezeen.com/2007/11/28/ski-suits-with-solar-powered-lights-by-willy-bogner/
  31. 자료검색일 2007. 12. 21, 자료출처 http://www.husseinchalayan.com/collections/66/hi/1110.jpg
  32. 자료검색일 2007. 12. 15, 자료출처 http://www.husseinchalayan.com
  33. 박효미 (2006). 현대건축 공간의 탈정형적 공간구성표현에 관한 연구. 국민대학교 석사학위논문, pp. 7-11
  34. Lee, Suzanne. (2005). Fashioning the Future, To- morrow's Wardrobe. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 98
  35. Evans, Caroline (2003). Fashion at the Edge, spec- tacles, modernity and deathliness. NY: Yale Uni- versity Press, p.46
  36. 자료검색일 2007. 4. 19, 자료출처 http://herchcovitch.uol.com.br
  37. 자료출처 Lee, Suzanne. (2005). Fashioning the Future, To- morrow's Wardrobe. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 103
  38. Lee, Suzanne. (2005). Fashioning the Future, To- morrow's Wardrobe. London: Thames & Hudson, pp. 98-99
  39. Evans, Caroline, (2003). Fashion at the Edge, spec- tacles, modernity and deathliness. NY: Yale Uni- versity Press, pp. 43-44
  40. 플럼사익스 (2003). Blinded by Science. 보그코리아. 2001년 3월호, p. 166
  41. 자료검색일 2007. 4. 19, 자료출처 http://www.cutecircuit.com/projects/wearables/kinetic-dress/
  42. 자료검색일 2007. 8. 15, 자료출처 http://www.5050ltd.com
  43. 자료검색일 2007. 4. 19, 자료출처 http://www.ankeloh.net/image.php?id_photo=142&id_page=27
  44. 자료검색일 2007. 12. 21, 자료출처http://www.design.philips.com/shared/assets/design/probes/dresses2_hr.jpg
  45. 자료검색일 2007. 4. 19, 자료출처 http://www.cutecircuit.com/projects/wearbles/kinetic-dress/
  46. 자료검색일 2007. 4. 19, 자료출처 http://www.haishmorrow.com
  47. 자료검색일 2007. 11. 19, 자료출처 http://www.creativereview.co.uk/crblog/underwater-magic/
  48. 자료검색일 2007. 12. 15, 자료출처http://www.fashionwiredaily.com/first_word/fashion/article.weml?id=1561
  49. 이민정 (2003). 현대패션에 나타난 디지털 커뮤니케이션문화의 영향에 관한 연구. 연세대학교 박사학위논문, p. 80
  50. Capture Lightness & Fluidity. HAMISH MORROW. COM. 자료검색일 2007. 12. 15, 자료출처 http://www.hamishmorrow.com/archive/shows-5.html
  51. Macluhan, Marshall (1964). 박정규 역(1997). 미디어의 이해. 서울: 커뮤니케이션 북스, pp. 174-175
  52. Adorno, Theodor W. (1970). Asthetishe Theorie. 홍승용 역 (1984). 미학이론. 서울: 문학과지성사, p. 237
  53. 'Hussein Chalayan's Make of 08 S/S video' 내용, 자료검색일 2008. 1. 17, 자료출처 http://www.swarovskisparkles.tv/video/fashion/spring-summer-08/paris/hussein-chalayan-making/
  54. Lee, Suzanne. (2005). Fashioning the Future, To- morrow's Wardrobe. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 81
  55. 박찬이 (2005). 유비쿼터스 네트워킹을 활용한 커뮤니케이션의 가능성에 관한 연구. 이화여자대학교 석사학위논문, pp. 11-12