• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.1-5
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• 2013

Objectives : This study was designed to investigate the collagen metabolism and tyrosinase activity of Polygonati Rhizoma extracts (PR). It's effects are to tonify spleen qi and augment the spleen yin. It enrichs the yin and moisten the lung. Methods : The effect of PR on type I procollagen production and collagenase (matrix metalloproteinase-1, henceforth referred as MMP-1) activity in human normal fibroblasts Hs68 after ultraviolet B (UVB, 312 nm) irradiation was measured by ELISA method. The tyrosinase activity after treatment of PR was measured. Results : There were no cytotoxicity at concentrations of 10, 30, $100{\mu}g/ml$. The reduced type I procollagen production was recovered by PR in UVB damaged Hs68 cells at a concentration of $100{\mu}g/ml$ ($16.2{\pm}0.0$ ng/ml) from control group ($13.9{\pm}0.5$ ng/ml). However there was no statistical significance. PR reduced The increased MMP-1 activity after UVB damage at concentrations of $10{\mu}g/ml$, $30{\mu}g/ml$, and $100{\mu}g/ml$ in a dose dependent manner ($42.2{\pm}20.5%$, $44.8{\pm}8.5%$, and $22.0{\pm}5.8%$). PR $100{\mu}g/ml$ treatment showed the statistical significace (p < 0.05). PR significantly reduced the tyrosinase activity at a concentration of 10 mg/ml ($32.0{\pm}12.8%$, p < 0.05). However, the L-DOPA oxidation was not changed. Conclusion : PR showed the anti-wrinkle effects and whitening effects in vitro. Although more researches are needed to validate the efficacy, these results suggest that PR may have potential as an anti-aging ingredient in cosmetic herb markets.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.9-14
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• 2013

Objectives： Bletillae Rhizoma, the roots of Bletilla striata, is used to restrain the leakage of blood and stop bleeding. It can cure the sores, ulcers, and chapped skin. This study was designed to investigate the collagen metabolism, elastase and tyrosinase activity of Bletillae Rhizoma extract (BR). Methods : The effects of BR on type I procollagen production and collagenase activity in human normal fibroblasts Hs68 after UVB (312 nm) irradiation were measured by ELISA method. The elastase activity, tyrosinase activity, and L-DOPA oxidation after treatment of BR were measured as well. Results : In the present study, the collagen production (type I procollagen) was significantly increased to $15.7{\pm}1.8$ ng/ml at a concentration of BR 100 ${\mu}g/ml$ in UVB damaged Hs68 cells. The increased collagenase activity after UVB damage was significantly recovered to $42.7{\pm}0.7%$, $54.5{\pm}3.5%$, and $38.4{\pm}0.9%$ by BR 10, 30, and 100 ${\mu}g/ml$. The activities of BR 10 mg/ml on tyrosinase activity was significantly reduced to $45.1{\pm}8.4%$ as well. However, there were no significant effects on the elastase activity and the L-DOPA oxidation. Conclusion : BR showed the promoting effects of collagen synthesis and inhibitory effects of collagenase activity in Hs68, human normal fibroblast cells. And these could be thought to have the anti-wrinkle effects and whitening effects in vitro. These results suggest that BR may have potential as an anti-aging ingredient in cosmetic treatment.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.27-35
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• 2018

Objectives : Gastrodiae Rhizoma extract (GE) is possess the various bioactive compounds such as gastrodin, vanilyl alcool and p-hydroxybenzyl alcohol. Various processing methods such as steaming have been widely applied to ease ingestion and enhance the therapeutic effects of plant materials including GE in East-Asia area. The aim of this study was to evaluate the dermal bioactive properties of GE. Methods : First, total phenol, total flavonoid, gastrodin and ergothionein contents of GE were measured. In order to evaluate the dermal bioactive properties of steamed GE compared with not-steamed GE, tyrosinase, collagenase and elastase inhibitory activity were tested. Furthermore, the anti-oxidant activity of GE assessed based on DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assay. Results : In results, total phenol and total flavonoid contents were increased when 9 times steamed compared to not-steamed GE. Also, GE increased gastrodin contents, in proportion to the number of steaming times and ergothioneine content was abolished in the steaming state. The DPPH radical scavenging activity of GE increased by steaming, but the ABTS radical scavenging activity was not related to the steaming process. In addition, the tyrosinase inhibitory activity was increased as the number of steaming times of GE increased. Collagenase was most inhibited by 4 times steamed GE, and elastase was inhibited by 8 times steamed GE. Conclusion : In conclusion, these results suggest that steamed GE extract has the potential as a cosmetic material which possess anti-oxidant and whitening activities than not steamed GE.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.165-173
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• 2007

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative and cellular protective effects of Jeju native plant extracts. In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of new 37 plant extracts collected from self-growing plants in Jeju island. Their anti-oxidant activities were measured by the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) radical scavenging assay and reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging assay in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system. The cytoprotective properties of 37 plant extracts were assessed in the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes. The inhibitory effect of 37 plant extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The results showed that the extracts of Myrica rubra stem bark and Securinega suffruticosa have the free radical scavenging activity($FSC_{50}:\;5,\;8{\mu}g/mL$, respectively), and the extracts of Quercus acutissima leaf and Securinega suffruticosa stem bark have the prominent ROS scavenging activity($OSC_{50}:\;0.009{\mu}g/mL$). Photohemolysis of erythrocytes in the presence of rose-bengal as a sensitizer was inhibited by the extracts of Securinega suffruticosa stem bark and Salix koreensis stem(${\tau}_{50}$, 895 min, 640 min at 50 ${\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Myrica rubra stem bark extract(77.8% at 200 ${\mu}g/mL$) and Salix koreensis stem extract(76.2% at 200 ${\mu}g/mL$) also have the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and elastase activities, respectively. These results indicated that the stem park of Myrica rubra, Securinega suffruticosa, and Camellia japonica, the stem of Salix koreensis, and the leaf of Quercus aqutissima and Camellia japonica could have e benefitial effects when they are added as ingredients in cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2012

In the present study, the antioxidative properties, inhibitory activity on tyrosinase, and active components of Eriobotrya japonica (E. japonica) leaf extract were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf was in the order 50 % ethanol extract ($22.625{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.75) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (5.06). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of fraction/extracton ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescenceassay were investigated. $OSC_{50}$ of the ethyl acetate fraction, deglycosylated aglycone fraction, and ethanol extract were 0.75, 0.79, and $1.61{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The cellular protective effects of E. japonica leaf extract on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The protective effects of extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf were increased in a in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$). Especially, ${\tau}50$ of ethyl acetate fraction at concentrations of $10{\mu}g/mL$ and $50{\mu}g/mL$ showed the most protective effects at 390.8 min and 1471.5 min. The inhibitory effect ($IC_50$) on tyrosinase of E. japonica leaf extracts was higher than arbutin, known as a skin-whitening agent. The order of inhibitory effects was acetate fraction ($75.25{\mu}g/mL$) < 50 % extract (74.1) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (43.35). TLC of the ethyl acetate fraction showed 7 bands (EJL 1 - EJL 7). HPLC of the aglycone fraction exhibited 2 peaks, kaempferol and quercetin. The amounts of kaempferol and quercetin were 53.7 and 46.3 %. respectively. Therefore, The amounts of kaempferol and its glucoside were a little bit higher than quercetin and its glucoside in E. japonica leaf extract. Accordingly, these findings suggest that extracts/fractions of E. japonica leaf can function as antioxidants in biological systems, especially skin exposed to UV radiation, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Thus, the extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf may be used in novel functional cosmetics as antioxidants against skin photoaging.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.135-144
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• 2013

The aim of this study was to evaluate various aspects of Vitex negundo L. leaf extract, such as the antioxidative activity, tyrosinase inhibitory effects, and inhibitory activities on ${\alpha}$-MSH induced melanogenesis, and active component analysis. The DPPH (1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of the ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of V. negundo L. leaf extract were $14.51{\mu}g/ml$ and $13.96{\mu}g/ml$, respectively. A luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay revealed that the reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity ($OSC_{50}$) of the aglycone fraction of V. negundo L. leaf extract on ROS generated in an $Fe^{3+}$-$EDTA/H_2O_2$ system was the most prominent at $0.22{\mu}g/ml$. The protective effects of the extracts fractions of V. negundo L. leaf against the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim}50{\mu}g/ml$). In particular, there were greater protective effects of the aglycone fraction on the cellular membrane than that of the fat-soluble antioxidant (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol. The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on mushroom tyrosinase were the highest for the ethyl acetate fraction ($IC_{50}$ = $48.58{\mu}g/ml$). The inhibitory effect on ${\alpha}$-MSH induced melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells was 41.80% at $50{\mu}g/ml$ of ethyl acetate fraction. Active component analyses by TLC, HPLC and LC/ESI-MS revealed luteolin and isoorientin. These results indicate that V. negundo L. leaf extract can be used as an antioxidant for ROS scavenging. Particularly, the luteolin and isoorientin of the ethyl acetate fraction may be applicable to new whitening cosmetics because of its inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase and ${\alpha}$-MSH induced melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.428-433
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• 2020

In this study, we created pupal stage extracts of Apis mellifera L. drones for use in cosmetic materials. The effect of the drone pupae extract (DPE) on HDF cells was assessed for analysis of anti-wrinkle activity by collagen or collagenase gene expression, and the skin-lightening effect was studied by in vitro tyrosinase inhibition and B16F10 melanoma assay; the two cells were found to be non-cellular when the concentration of DPE was 100 ㎍/ml. Albutin concentration (positive control) in the whitening test was set at a capacity of 100 ug/ml and m-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH). A melanin-producing induction material was set at a concentration of 100 nM, and the expression of collagen type I and MMP1 collagenase was measured using HDF cells. MMP1 expression was seen to reduce in a concentration-dependent manner in treatment with DPE. Inhibiting melanin generation with B16F12 cells indicated a tendency to decrease in the DPE treatment group. Both L-Tyrosine and L-DOPA as DPE were used in an in vitro tyrosinase induction test to demonstrate the effects of tyrosinase suppression on concentrations. The higher the concentration of DPE, the greater the wrinkle reduction and whitening effect. In conclusion, it was found that DPE is an effective smoothing and whitening material by increasing collagen generation and inhibiting collagenase expression and reducing melanin production.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.555-563
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• 2019

This study was undertaken to investigate the effect of an ethanol extract of Elaeagnus umbellata leaves (EUL-EE) on skin-related biological activities. Previously, we have reported that gallic acid was the major phenolic compound in EUL-EE through quantitative analysis and that EUL-EE had an inhibitory effect against the proliferation of liver cancer HepG2 cells. In the present study, the inhibitory effects of EUL-EE on melanin production and tyrosinase activity in ${\alpha}$-melanocyte-stimulated hormone-stimulated B16-F0 cells were determined to assess the effects of EUL-EE on skin whitening. The anti-wrinkle effect using UVB-irradiated CCD-986sk cells was examined by the expression of type I procollagen and metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 release. The EUL-EE significantly decreased intracellular melanin production (33.0% inhibition at $100{\mu}g/ml$) when compared with untreated B16-F0 cells. Tyrosinase activities in the stimulated B16-F0 cells were also decreased by EUL-EE (47.8% inhibition at $100{\mu}g/ml$). The EUL-EE also dose-dependently increased the production of type I procollagen (up to 1.74-fold at $250{\mu}g/ml$) in CCD-986sk cells when compared with UVB-irradiated controls. EUL-EE showed no cytotoxicity at concentrations up to $500{\mu}g/ml$. In addition, EUL-EE at $10-500{\mu}g/ml$ inhibited the release of MMP-1 to the medium from UVB-irradiated CCD-986sk cells. Taken together, these observations indicate that EUL-EE has high potential for use as inner beauty and cosmetic materials due to its whitening and anti-wrinkle effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.249-258
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• 2018

Airborne pollution causes oxidative damage, inflammation, and premature aging of skin. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound that has various biological activities such as antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and anti-melanogenic activities but it is unstable to heat and light. Resveratryl triacetate (RTA) is a new cosmetic ingredient that is more stable than resveratrol and its skin safety and whitening efficacy have been reported previously. The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of resveratrol and resveratryl triacetate (RTA) on the inflammatory responses of human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs) exposed to airborne particulate matters with a diameter of < $10{\mu}m$ (PM10). Cultured HEKs were exposed to PM10 in the absence or presence of resveratrol and RTA. Assays were undertaken to determine cell viability, the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), and the expression of inflammatory cytokines. PM10 treatment decreased cell viability, and increased the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as tumor necrosis $factor-{\alpha}$ ($TNF-{\alpha}$), $interleukin-1{\beta}$ ($IL-1{\beta}$), interleukin-6 (IL-6), and interleukin-8 (IL-8). Resveratrol and RTA reduced cell death and ROS production induced by PM10. PM10-induced mRNA expression of the inflammatory cytokines was either attenuated (IL-6), or enhanced ($IL-1{\beta}$), or unaffected ($TNF-{\alpha}$ and IL-8) by resveratrol and RTA. PM10-induced IL-6 protein expression was attenuated by resveratrol and RTA. This study suggests that resveratrol and RTA have activities regulating cell damage and inflammatory responses of the skin exposed to airborne particulate matters.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.702-711
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• 2015

This study was conducted to determine the feasibility of using Gastrodia elata Blume as a cosmetic raw material by investigating the physiological activities of its extracts, varying the concentration, solvent, and fermentation method (non-fermentation and fermentation using lactic acid bacteria and effective microorganisms). Of the extracts in three different solvents-water, EtOH, and 70% EtOH-at four different concentrations (0.725, 1.25, 2.5, and 5 mg/mL), the EtOH extracts demonstrated the highest contents of antioxidants (flavonoids, polyphenols, and DPPH free radical scavengers). The DPPH free radical scavenging activity in the EtOH extracts of EM-fermented Gastrodia elata Blume increased from $27.08{\pm}0.5%$ at 1.25 mg/mL to $35.89{\pm}0.8%$ at 2.5 mg/mL. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity test was performed to measure skin-whitening capacity and revealed the LB-fermented EtOH extracts to be the most efficacious ($39.1{\pm}0.4%$ at 0.725 mg/mL, $62.8{\pm}1.5%$ at 2.5 mg/mL). Viability was found to exceed 85% in RAW 264.7 cells treated with all extracts (water, EtOH, 70% EtOH at 10, 25, $50{\mu}L$, fermented and non-fermented), thus proving that Gastrodia elata Blume extracts do not cause inflammation. When RAW 264.7 cells were stimulated with lipopolysaccharide as positive controls under the same conditions to determine the antioxidant activity in the presence of reactive oxygen species (ROS), EM-fermentation was found to impart excellent antioxidant capacity. This study verified the physiological activities of fermented Gastrodia elata Blume extracts that are best suited for cosmetic ingredients, such as antioxidants, tyrosinase inhibitors and anti-inflammatory agents.