• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.250-258
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• 2012

The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.76-83
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• 1993

In this study, an approximate method for calculating the directional spectrum of waves encountering a current in shallow water is developed. The wave trains in tile directional spectrum are assumed to be linear and Gaussian; development of the spectrum requires that the waves also be short crested. The Miche's breaking criterion is imposed to determine the upper limit of wave height and to establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the ideal wave's elevation and the second time derivative of wave elevation. Two examples are given; one for a Wallops directional spectrum encountering a shear current and another with an upwelling current.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.705-712
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• 2001

It is of great importance to represent the directional ocean waves in a laboratory basin for hydraulic model tests. The directional ocean waves can be expressed as a linear superposition of a large number of component waves with different frequencies and propagating directions. The aim of the study is to check the wave generating characteristics by serpent-type wave generating system in PKNU (Pukyong National University) which is composed of 10 piston-type wave generators. In the experiment, spatial variation of irregular wave heights and propagating angles are measured in the multi-directional wave maker basin. Target wave directional spectrum is reproduced in the area of multi-directional wave maker basin. The directional spreading of the generated waves varied spacially in the basin. They differed from target spectrum as the measurement point becomes far from the center line normal to the generator face, The effective generation area where that target can be reproduced is limited to the triangular area attached the generator face. According to the results, it is emphasized that the effective experiment area in the basin considered wave generator characteristics should be determined in consideration of experimental conditions including structural shapes, water depth, wave directionality etc.

• Journal of information and communication convergence engineering
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.146-149
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• 2008

Simulation and signal conditioning on the time domain surface elevation records are conducted to verify the proposed Welch's method in non-directional ocean wave spectrum analysis. These spectrum data are further conditioned to provide wave characteristic that better describe the sea states. Comparison of significant wave height and zero crossing period between the proposed method and a reference toolkit are presented.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.586-595
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• 2007

The analytic solution of wave scattering of monochromatic waves on a pile breakwater by an eigenfunction expansion method is extended to the case of directional irregular waves. The scattering wave spectrum and the force spectrum can be expressed from the reflection coefficient, transmission coefficient and the wave forces obtained from changing frequencies and incident angles in monochromatic waves. By numerical integration of 2-dimensional spectrum which is function of frequencies and incident angles, the representative values for the scattered waves and wave forces are obtained and the dependence of the transmission coefficients and wave forces on the directional distribution function, the principal wave direction, the submergence depth, and porosity is analyzed.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.38-48
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• 2002

Theoretical development to generate the directional extreme waves in model basin is established based on wave focusing method. The effects of associated parameters, such as the directional range, frequency width, and center frequency, are investigated in terms of wave focusing efficiency. The two different spectral models of constant wave amplitude and constant wave slope are applied to control the wave characteristics. The wave packets simulated by theory are compared with numerical results based on Boussinesq equation and FEM. Both controls of direction and frequency spectrum are essential to focus directional waves effectively. It is noticed that wave focusing ability depends on the frequency bandwidth of spectrum rather than center frequency, and both spectral models with same parameters result in the equivalent efficiency of wave focusing.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2004

GUI program for analyzing directional spectrum waves is introduced in this paper Basically, MLM (Maximum Likelihood Method) was used for this program which was additionally consisted of performing spectral and time domain analysis for two dimensional irregular waves. Moreover, the directionality of directional spectrum waves generated by single summation and double summation method was investigated based on MLM. The directionality from each summation method has good agreement compared with that of target wave spreading function in the case of single wide directional spectrum waves. In addition to this, the resolution of directionality in double summation method was investigated as introducing coherence function between each wave component

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.266-277
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• 2023

In this study, fundamental research is conducted for the generation technique and analysis of multi-directional irregular waves in the Deep Ocean Engineering Basin (DOEB). A three-dimensional boundary element method-based numerical tank is implemented to perform wave generation simulations, and directional spectrum estimation is carried out using the results of simulations. The wave generation technique of the Snake type wave maker, generating multi-directional irregular waves, is implemented using the Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) and Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT) algorithms. The wave generation technique is validated by comparing the wave spectrum from simulations and experiments. A Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) based estimation code is developed for estimating the directional wave spectra. The multi-directional irregular waves are tested in the DOEB and the numerical tank, and directional wave spectra obtained from two methodologies are estimated and compared. A correction procedure for the directional distribution of multi-directional waves is established, and the possibility of correcting the directional spreading function using the numerical tank is validated.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.05a
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• pp.244-249
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• 2001

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