Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology (한국해양공학회지)

Korean Society of Ocean Engineers (한국해양공학회)
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Energy Dissipation and Transfer among Wave Components during Directional Breaking Processes

다방향 쇄파 발생 전후의 파랑 성분간 에너지 전이 및 소산

  • 홍기용 (한국해양연구원 해양개발시스템연구본부) ;
  • 에스똘히오메자 (멕시코 국립과학기술대학교 응용과학고등기술연구소)
  • Published : 2003.12.01
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Abstract

Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.

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References

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