• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.75-82
• /
• 1990

A Wave transformation including wave breaking in shallow water region is a non-linear and discontinuous Phenomenon. Therefore, a so-called individual wave analysis (or a wave by wave analysis) rather than spectral approach seems to be adequate to investigate the wave transformation in such regions. In this study, a theoretical joint distribution of wave height, period and wave direction of zero-down crossing waves, which is required in the individual wave analysis in the shallow water region, is derived based on the hypothesis that sea surface is a Gaussian stochastic process and that a band-width of energy spectra is sufficiently narrow. The derived i oint distribution is found to be an effective measure to investigate characteristics of three-dimensional random wave field in shallow water through field measurements.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.15 no.3
• /
• pp.107-113
• /
• 2001

This study is focused on the wave control by economical multi-rowed impermeable submerged breakwaters which need less materials than a one-rowed submerged breakwater. A boundary element method and eigenfunction expansion method based on the Green\`s theorem are appled to analyze the characteristics of wave transformation. Submerged breakwaters are consisted of one and two-row with rectangular section. Wave transformation characteristics are investigated by the various combinations of placement distance and crown water depth.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.23-30
• /
• 1994

This study discusses the wave transformation(wave reflection and transmission) by a impermeable submerged breakwater with one ray, and integrated horizontal wave pressure acting on the structure. Numerical method in this study is based on the simplified eigenfunction expansion method and linear wave theory. Although this method is very simple, the results give good agreement with the one of the strict eigenfunciton expansion method, especially, in case that the crown width of the submerged breakwater becomes longer and its crown water depth shallower. Therefore, it is concluded that this simplified method is one good method in planning coastal structures as like the submerged breakwater in this study, and computing their wave transformations.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.31 no.6
• /
• pp.405-412
• /
• 2017

Because of the rapid development of computer technology in recent years, wave models can utilize parallel calculations for the high-resolution prediction of open sea and coastal areas with high accuracy. Parallel calculations also allow national agencies in the relevant sectors to produce marine forecasting data through massive parallel calculations. Meanwhile, the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula has been increasingly damaged by swell-like high waves, and many researchers and scientists are continuing their efforts to anticipate and reduce the damage. In general, the short-term transformation of swell-like high waves can be reproduced relatively well in the third generation wave models, but the transformation of relatively long period waves needs to be simulated with higher accuracy in terms of the nonlinear wave interactions to gain a better understanding of the low-frequency wave generation and development mechanisms. In this study, we developed a calculation module to improve the calculation of the nonlinear energy transfer in the 3rd generation wave model and integrated it into the wave model to effectively consider the nonlinear wave interaction. First, the nonlinear energy transfer calculation module and third generation model were combined. Then, the combined model was used to reproduce the wave transformation due to the nonlinear interaction, and the performance of the developed operation module was verified.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.20 no.5
• /
• pp.439-451
• /
• 2008

Based on reflected and transmitted waves by a single step bottom, a new model of scatterer method is constructed which can be used to calculate wave transformation over a multi-step topography. The approximate results are tested by comparison with the more accurate results obtained from EFEM presented by Kirby and Dalrymple(1983). In the case of plane-wave approximation, solutions of the scatterer method and the EFEM are the same. Results obtained by the scatterer method with non-propagating modes are much better, in terms of phase for the calculated reflection and transmission coefficients, than those by plane-wave approximation. As the effect of non-propagating modes decreases, solutions of the scatterer method become closer to those of the EFEM.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.91-107
• /
• 2009

In order to compute linear wave transformation over a single step bottom, both variational approximation and eigenfunction expansion method are used. Both numerical results are in good agreement for reflection and transmission coefficients, surface displacement respectively. However x velocity profiles at the boundary of step are seen to be different to each other even though x velocity matching condition is used.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2005.09b
• /
• pp.916-917
• /
• 2005

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.240-246
• /
• 2002

Hydraulic model experiments were conducted fur a series of regular and uni-directional irregular waves propagating over a submerged elliptic shoal. Two different sets of experiments have been studied； one considers regular wave transformation with no breaking, and the other considers uni-directional irregular wave with partial breaking on top of the shoal. The numerical experiments are also performed using a numerical model based on the parabolic approximation equation. The result of the numerical experiments are compared with that of hydraulic experiments.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.18 no.4 s.59
• /
• pp.40-45
• /
• 2004

An efficient numerical model of the modified mild slope equation, based on the robust iterative method is presented. The model developed is verified against other numerical experimental results, related to wave reflection from an arc-shaped bar and wave transformation over a circular shoal. The results show that the modified mild slope equation model is capable of producing accurate results for wave propagation in a region where water depth varies substantially, while the conventional mild slope equation model yeilds large errors, as the mild slope assumption is violated.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
• /
• v.85 no.5
• /
• pp.645-654
• /
• 2023

Based on first-order shear deformation theory, a wave propagation model of graphene platelets reinforced metal foams (GPLRMFs) circular plates is built in this paper. The expressions of phase-/group- velocities and wave number are obtained by using Laplace integral transformation and Hankel integral transformation. The effects of GPLs pattern, foams distribution, GPLs weight fraction and foam coefficient on the phase and group velocity of GPLRMFs circular plates are discussed in detail. It can be inferred that GPLs distribution have great impacts on the wave propagation problems, and Porosity-I type distribution has the largest phase velocity and group velocity, followed by Porosity-III, and finally Porosity-II; With the increase of the GPLs weight fraction, the phase- and group- velocities for the GPLRMFs circular plate will be increased; With the increase of the foam coefficient, the phase- and group- velocities for the GPLRMFs circular plate will be decreased.