Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.36
no.1
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pp.112-125
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2012
This study researches the preferred ease of torso sloper according to body sizes and drop. For this, the eases of main body parts such as chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, biacromion length, and waist back length were analysed; in addition, the drop differences of body and pattern were explored to find out characteristics of silhouette changes. The subjects were 55 women in their early 20s (aged from 20 to 24) and individual torso block made with muslin was corrected 1-3 times by a personal fitting. There were 3 meaningful results. First, the preferred ease were individually various; however, the eases of all torso blocks should be same at the pattern making step. Second, the eases were also significantly different among body size groups and the bigger group preferred less ease at the biacromion length, waist back length, armhole-depth, chest circumference, and waist circumference. Third, the eases of chest circumference and hip circumference were significantly changed among drop groups. To change their body drop, H-shape drop adopted less ease at chest circumference and more ease at hip circumference; however, A-shape drop adopted more ease at chest circumference and less ease at hip circumference.
Apparel companies define their target customers to integrate consumers' needs into their product development processes. The sizing standards play a significant role in ready-to-wear garment business. Consumers' body build and sizes are different according to gender, age, and body type. The consumers' morphological feature of the one geographical area has changed with immigration, aging, and lifestyle change. In this study the way of defining body types in the standard garment sizing systems published in USA., UK, Germany, Japan, and Korea were compared. The results of this study show that most of the systems classified the body types by the index value. The chest-waist drop value was used for men's body type classification. Women's body types were defined by hip proportion. The hip-bust drop value was used for it. German and European garment sizing systems provide a wide range of men's body types. US men's garment sizes are developed for very conservative body type. US women's garment sizing system has had clearly defined women's body types. The Misses body types projected in the US garment sizing system had changed as women's waist girth got bigger compared to the past. In 2011 the US Misses sizes were divided into Curvy Misses size and Straight Misses size by the hip-waist drop value. The Curvy Misses sizes have smaller waist girth and larger hip girth than the Straight Misses sizes.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.24
no.1
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pp.105-115
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2000
This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.
The purpose of this study was to develop a suitable jacket pattern for elderly women. The subjects were two women of the ages of 65-70, who had different bust size. To reflect the ready made pattern drafting systems, 4 industrial patterns were selected. After analyzing the problems of these patterns, a new jacket pattern was proposed. The results were as follows : 1) The amount of appropriate ease in fitted jacket for elderly women was about 10cm at the bust circumference, 10∼12cm at the hip circumference and the height of sleeve cap was AH/3+0.5cm. 2) Considering an enlargement of waist and abdomen, difference between front and back size was 2cm on the bust line, 6-8cm on the waist and hip line. 3) Because of the shape of concavity of back-waist, center back line in the pattern was folded by 0.5cm from center back waist toward side seam for manipulation. 4) The new jacket pattern was compared with the existing pattern through the wearing test by sensory evaluation. It showed that the fit and comfort of experimental pattern was superior to those of the existing pattern.
This study proposed a revision of standard sizing system for infant clothing to provide exact information for consumers and manufacturers. The size designation was set up by compensating the defect of existing system. Basic body measurement and reference body measurement were analysed according to size designation. The ages of the infants ranged from 0 to 36 month in accordance with safety standard of KC Self-Regularity Safety Confirmation. The results are as follows: Size designation for infant clothing was based on height that was basic body measurement. Chest girth, waist girth, head girth, arm length, foot length and weight were also analysed according to age of the month. It was proposed that height could be written alone and height with age of month did together for size designation. Size intervals of basic and reference body measurements were fixed as follows: size intervals are 5 cm in height, 2 cm in chest girth, 2 cm in waist girth, 1 cm in head girth, 2 cm in arm length, 0.5 cm in foot length and 2 kg in weight. The distributions of height and chest girth showed normal distributions. As height was taller, chest girth was also bigger. But the distribution of waist girth didn't show remarkable change with age of month. The distributions of arm length and weight showed remarkable difference with growth in 0~9 months, but the amount of growth variation got less in 12~18 months.
This study is on the kindergarten uniforms in Changwon, south Gyeongsang province. The first part of this research is on whether or not students should wear uniforms and how often they should wear uniforms. The research also deals with what types of uniforms are required, how much they should cost and their size. Fifty one preschools including kindergarten and nursery were targeted for this research. The second part of the research is on the discrepancy of the labeled size and the actual size of the child. The results of the first part are as follows: A total of 46 out of 51 places adopted uniforms for their children. Sports wear style is the most popular for spring, fall and summer uniforms. For wearing frequency of kindergarten uniforms, 26 (61%) places allowed the students to wear uniforms for special events such as picnics or observation trips 17(34%) places had the students wear their uniforms on a daily basis and 2 3 times only wearing a week.'rho preschool children interviewed for this study were from 2 to 5 in lull age. However, sizes with high frequency rates were 9 to 11 and the supplied sizes of uniforms were from 5 to 17. The results of the second part are as follows: The bust girth and the shoulder width of upper garments of uniforms are bigger than children's physical size, while clothes length and sleeve length are relatively shorter. Also the bust girth of upper garments of uniforms differs in the size depending on each preschool. The waist girth and the total length of lower garments of uniforms are made smaller than children's physical sizes, while hip girth is relatively larger. In the case of lower garments, the rest parts of cloth length are smaller than upper garments of uniforms. Also, the waist girth and hip width of uniforms are smaller than those of lower garments In summer garments, while thigh width is similar in both cases. The waist width is made too small. Described in the above excluding the waist width, the rest parts are relatively larger than children's physical sizes, but shorter in the length. Due to the length, children at age 7 may wear uniforms in the level of 17. Since summer uniforms touch the students' bare skin, the rest parts excluding clothes length are shorter than these of the spring and fall uniforms. In the case of clothes length, it seems to be due to different designs. The waist width of lower garments in all the uniforms tested in this study is too small for children, requiring them to be made in a larger size.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.25
no.6
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pp.1069-1078
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2001
Pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to the measurements in a given size chart. The original pattern is graded and laid out for cutting before mass production. This study tried to classify body types for pattern grading of jacket by applying a concept of "drop"defined as the difference between chest girth and waist girth and the difference between hip girth and waist girth for pants. Data were collected through the stratified sampling method. 138 subjects were selected out of 1,290 subjects of our sample population. Findings were as follows : 1) For pattern grading of jacket, the cell with the chest girth of 96cm and the waist girth of 87cm had the highest frequency rate and body type was 87H type and the coverage of this type was 9.52%. Then, the size specification 87-96 was the center of distribution. H type had seven ones such as 72H, 75H, 78H, 81H, 84H. 87H and 90H. H type had 33 observations and frequency ratio of 26.19%. Same types could be graded up and down from the reference size for the age group. And this reference size became to the starting point for developing the grading system. 2) For pattern grading of pants, fatty types, H10 type had six ones such as 80H10. 82H10, 84H10, 86H10, 88H10 and 90H10. H10 type had 28 observations and frequency ratio of 20.29%. H6 type had 6 ones such as 84H6, 86H6, 88H6, 90H6. 92H6 and 94H6. H6 type had 27 observations and frequency ratio of 19.57%. If lower body types were classified as same ones, these types could be graded up and down proportionately.
The purpose of the present study is to develop a grading deviation, which is appropriate for the body type of women in thirties, by analyzing the three-dimensional body type. The materials for the study were adopted from the body measurement data of women in the age group of 30 to 39 years old, provided from Size Korea. By reflecting the factor analysis results using the three-dimensional shape measurement, deviations were derived. First, six factors influencing the changes in human body shape were derived as waist-hip length factor, bust-waist shape factor, back protrusion back shoulder factor, bust length factor, shoulder length factor, and frontal waist dart factor. The bust size and height, which can be easily utilized for the top original grading, were used for deriving a regression formula, and the deviation was set in accordance with the result. Second, by applying the deviation which reflects the changes in the body shape, the crimps which were generated due to the application of existing deviation were remarkably reduced, indicating that the grading of the present study is more fitting than the existing one. The deviation derived by the analysis of actual increase and decrease of body size was more fitting than the existing one. This was proved by actual wearing experiment, which represents the significance of this study.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.36
no.2
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pp.231-243
/
2012
This study examines the characteristics of fat body type males aged 35 to 55 with a BMI rate higher than 25 categorized as mid-degree obesity and high-degree obesity according to the $6^{th}$ Size Korea; in addition, the study provides a sizing system for obese males. The physical characteristics of the obese male appeared to be with a shorter lower body compared to an upper body for a higher degree of obesity. Obesity appeared evenly from chest to thigh circumference compared to a normal group. Especially, their waist measurement, depth, and width were significantly larger as well as the crotch length (natural indentation) and a larger waist measurement. As for the cloth sizing system, this study suggests the sizes with higher distribution among the designated size intervals of casual tops, men's suit tops and bottoms based on standard stature, chest size and waist circumference (Omphalion) by KS.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.25
no.4
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pp.743-753
/
2001
This paper proposed the sizing system for womens lower clothes. The sizing system was classified according to 4 body types and 5 age groups. The size intervals of waist girth, hip girth, stature, and slacks length were 3cm, 4cm, 8cm, and 5cm respectively. Frequency distribution analyzed with waist girth, hip girth, and stature showed that the most frequent sizes were 86-100-158 in the fattest-medium length H type, 77-92-158 in the fat-short M type, 68-92-158 in the balanced-long A type, and 65-88-158 in the balanced-medium length A type. The number of the sizes for lower clothes, which had frequencies more than 4∼5%, was 33 and each size was presented with slacks length, skirt length, thigh girth, and knee girth. Also frequency distribution analyzed with waist girth, hip girth, and slacks length showed that the most frequent sizes were 86-100-90 in the fattest-medium length H type, 74-96-90 in the fat-short M type, 68-92-90 in the balanced-long A type, and 65-88-90 in the balanced-medium length A type. The sizing system classified by age group had 21 cases in the early twenties, 21 cases in the late twenties, 18 cases in the early thirties, 16 cases in the late thirties, and 8 cases in the forties. This result will contribute to clothing fitness and efficient production.
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