• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.811-821
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• 2006

The purpose of this report was to study visual effect and functional effect of waist line location of slacks for females in 20'. 1. Differences of visual effect of slacks waist line change to be expressed that mature, sexual and casual slacks waist line were W4 or W5, looks like long leg and mature and formal slacks waist line was W1, slim lower part of the body and flat slacks waist line was W4. 2. Analysis result of functional effect difference with the location variation of slacks waist line were as follows. In all motions(M1, M2, M3, M4) W2 that downed 7cm-6cm-6cm from natural waist line was valued as the most comfortable, W1 and W5 were valued as discomfortable, where waist line was too high or too low.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.182-194
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• 2001

The main purpose is to study lines on different body types and to disguise any imperfections by using diverse princess lines. We separated festers body shapes into specific body types, A, H by applying both the direct and the indirect measurements. Following are the results of the study: 1. nose are the resulting illusion effects when the shoulder width of the princess line was fixed. In case of the armhole princess line, the illusion that the waist intervals were narrow or wide in A-line silhouette. In case the shoulder princess line, when the waist interval was narrow, it appeared to show narrow shoulder in A-line silhouette. While the wide waist interval shows the wide shoulder width in H-line silhouette. It regards body type H in the same light as H-line silhouette when the waist interval is narrow, it appeared to show narrow shoulder width in A-line silhouette. When the waist interval was wide, it appeared to give the narrow shoulder width. 2. When the princess lines waist width was fixed in order to study illusion effects of waist widths. Generally, for body type A, Whether the waist interval princess line is narrow or wide, the princess line is located comparatively wide, in A-line silhouette appeared to show relatively slender waist. For body type H, whether the waist interval is narrow or wide, the princess line us situated comparatively narrow interval, H-line silhouette appeared to show sum waist but the differences are not significant 3. The illusion of the hip were studied by fixating the width of the skirt and varying the locations of princess line and waist widths. For the location of both armhole and shoulder princess line in H and A-line silhouette, the narrow shoulder width and the waist appeared to show narrow hips. mile they are wide appeared to show wide hips. 4. With both waist and skirt width fuel, all two body types showed taller and slender postures when the princess line originated from the shoulder compare to the armhole.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.893-907
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• 2001

The main purpose is to study the effects of princess lines on different body types and to disguise any imperfection by using diverse princess lines. We separated testers body shapes into specific body types, H, Y by applying both the direct and the indirect measurements. These designs were evaluated by using the point ranking system method, and then average scores were obtained from these evaluations. Following are the results of the study: 1 These are the resulting illusion effects when the shoulder width of the Princess line was fixed. When the Princess line originated from 1/3 point of the armhole, body types Y appeared to show narrow waist width. A-line silhouette appeared to display the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 2/3 point of the armhole, body types H and Y appeared to exhibit narrowest waist widths, and the A-line silhouette once again displayed the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 1/2 point of the armhole, body type H appeared to exhibit narrow width; and H-line silhouette displayed the narrowest shoulder width 2. When the Princess lines waist w'4th was fixed in order to study illusion effects of waist widths. In this experiment, locations of Princess lines and widths of the skirt were varied. When the waist width was fixed at 6.5 cm, For the H body type, the Princess line location of 1/3 point of the armhole in H-line silhouette design exhibited the narrowest waist width. For the Y body type in A-line silhouette design, the Princess line locations of 1/3 and 1/2 points of the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width because it displayed the hourglass effect. When the waist width was fixed at 10 cm, H body type did not exhibit any significant differences between designs. For Y body type, A-line silhouette design with the Princess line origination point at 1/3 down the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width. 3. The illusion effects of the hip were studied by fixating the width of the skirt and varying the locations of Princess line and waist widths. In H-line skirt silhouette designs, all two body types exhibited narrow hips when the Princess line origination points were at 1/3 and 1/2 way down the armhole. For A-line skirt silhouette, H body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/2 point in the shoulder was shown. Y body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/3 point of the armhole and 2/3 point of the shoulder. 4. With both waist and skirt widths fixed, all two body types exhibited taller and slender postures when the Princess line originated from the shoulder compare to the armhole.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.616-625
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• 2009

With suffering financial crisis in 1997, Korea's fashion market has grown in the direction that satisfies the reasonable price and diverse consumer's sensitivity and needs. The aim of this study is to examine whether the cutting portion in the waist line is surely necessary for designing the jacket pattern in men's wear, by closely examining the effects of the cutting portion in the waist line on the external appearance and functionality given designing the jacket pattern in men's wear for the standard body type in 20s. The results of the study are as follows. As a result of evaluating the external appearance, when having evaluated by dividing into 14 items such as the whole surface, the side, and the back side, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items and, the significant difference was indicated in 10 items except 4 items. As a result of evaluating performance, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items among 25 items in the total. Next, the cutting portion in the waist line obtained the highest mark in 10 items for the experimental clothing with opening in 1.0cm. The next was indicated to be in order of the experimental clothing with 1.5cm and the experimental clothing with 0.5cm. Given seeing the above result, the cutting portion in the waist line given designing the jacket pattern for the standard body type in 20s could be known that the experimental clothing with the most excellent mark in the evaluation of performance was all the experimental clothing with 0.0cm whose waist line wasn't cut.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.45-58
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to offer a more functional slacks by analyzing its crotch length. The result of the study were as follows : Regarding the feeling of wearing and appearance, the P2 b style which measures the crotch length starting from the waist line passing around the iliac spine was the most highly evaluated. This suggested that the functionality of dance movement was more influenced by the position of the waist line not by the crotch length measurement. Since the front and rear center lines of the crotch could not be flown if the waist line of slacks was positioned high, both the crotch and abdominal part might be clogged or tightened when dancers made large dance movements or bended their upper bodies forward. In conclusion, slacks for more functional dance movement should be manufactured focusing on the location of the waist line rather than on the crotch length.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.969-977
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• 2007

The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권3호
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.70-77
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the location and width of the waist band of the one-piece dress. The stimuli are 24 samples: 8 variations of the location of the waist band and 3 variations of the width of the waist band. The data has been obtained from 50 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheff's Test and the MCA method. The results of the study are as follows. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual image based on the changes in the location and width of waist bands, three factors were identified- attractiveness, elegance and practicality. Among them, attractiveness was found to be the most important. The visual image was evaluated positively when waist bands were positioned above the natural waist line and negatively when waist bands were positioned below the natural waist line regardless of their width. In addition, the visual image based on the width of waist bands for one-piece dress was the most positive when the width was 4.5cm. No significant difference was observed in the visual image according to band width when the waist bands were positioned below the natural waist line. The interaction of visual image according to the location and width of waist bands for one-piece dress did not appear. As the main effect, significant differences were observed in all of the three factors according to the location of waist bands, but only two factors excluding elegance showed some difference according to the width of waist bands. When multiple classification analysis was applied to the factors without interaction, the location of waist bands appeared to have more significant effect on visual image than the width of waist bands.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권4호
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• pp.756-773
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• 2024

This study proposes a prototype design method for pants suited to adult women with a difference of 27cm or more between the circumference of their waist and hip. The first pattern was modified around the hem, in the number of darts at the waist and in the slope of the front center. The second pattern was modified in the position of the waist darts and the length of the front and back darts. The third pattern showed side-line wrinkling, so the slope of the side-line and the number of darts were adjusted. Pants patterns for women with large hips can be calculated by inserting the difference between hip and waist circumference in the settings for the center front angle, center back angle, front side line angle, back side line angle, dart length, etc. This enables designers to draft pants patterns suited to the body shape of women with a difference in hip and waist circumference of 27cm or more.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.178-194
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• 2011

Due to the population growth of the old aged, Korea is also entering into an aging society. But a research on the pattern design to the old aged is much to be desired. The purpose of this research is to design skirt pattern fitted for each body type by categorizing the lower body type of the old aged woman. For the way of research, categorized the body type by using the female measuring size from the 65 years old to 99 years old which has been measured by the Korean body size research as an assay data, and base on this data, a suitable skirt pattern for each body type of the old aged woman was designed by practicing the exterior evaluation. The data analysis was done with the statistical treatment in SPSS 12.0, and the results are as follows. The lower body type of the old aged woman were divided into the type 1. The circumference article is the biggest compared to the height article regarding to the lower body type of the old aged woman. The type 2. The height article and the circumference and thickness articles are the poorest. The type 3. The height article is the biggest and the hip width and calf circumference are thicker than the waist width. The type 4. The height article is the lowest and the waist width is thicker instead the hip and leg are thinner. In type 1, The pattern was modified by increasing 1cm a length of the dart and raising up 1.2cm at the cross point between side line and waist line. In type 2, the basic pattern was used, and in type 3, using the outline of the basic pattern however, increased 1cm a length of the dart and modified the amounts of dart by handling the art in curve, and modified the waist line to be more three-dimensional curves by raising up 1 cm at the cross point between waist line and side line and falling down 0.5cm at the cross point between the back center line and the waist line. In type 4, modified the amounts of front and back dart to 1.25cm, and raised up 0.8cm at the cross point between side line and waist line, and modified the waist line and the side seam line in a gentle curve by reducing circumference of the skirt tail to 1cm from the side seam line.