• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.217-228
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• 2001

This study* 1) historically considered the meaning of light which has frequently wed as the subject of artistic expression since Renaissance, in order to grasp an artistic atmosphere about light and rays before the allusion of Rayonism. non it inspected closely the course of changes of light as a result of historic circumstances and intended to understand how Rusian Rayonism of the 20th, which maintained these effects of light more rationally, had an influence on modern fashion. It was created by Mikhail Larionov and developed by his wife, N. Goncharova. The main special feature of Rayonism wag the crossing of reflected ras, emerging from various objects. Most of these things depended on line and color. Re purpose of Rayonism paintings was to create a new space from arising from which reflected rays from various selected objected crossed one another. Namely, artists maintained that they should give up various objects of visible world and express rays which were reflected objects and crossed in complex. Rayonists were affected by Cubism and Futurism and came to fake an interest in relations whose rays of parallel or convergent color made, also in expression of themes. Since that, Rayonsim affected Supermatisme and Constructivism. Re pursuit of light and rays from the 19th until the early 20th came to appear in fashion as well as in art as it was. As Rayonists created a new space from which reflected rays from selected objects crossed one another, they used line and color as the main techniques of expression. in this way the attempt which intended to express rays, using itself of the line and color, appeared as futile design of tots of designs like Donna Karan, Cianni Versace and Rococo Barocco and so on of Modem fashion. This was designed for essential elements of pure art to express the new aestheic consciousness through fashion.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.37-56
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• 1999

In clothing, a tendency of Bisexuality is in case of wearing clothing of the opposite sex, the mixing of modeling principle and characteristic of man and woman, the exclusion characteristic of sexuality that present sexlessness-the third sex. They-Designer Gabrielle Chanel, YSL, Giorgio Armani-give characteristic of man's fashion to women's fashion. However, the consciousness in design is different. Chanel apply principle of man's suit to woman's wear to express authority and power about gender image, hereby she express women liberation and equality of man and woman based on social ideology through fashion especially, she express women's sexual independency and self assurance to her clothing. YSL express liberal and bold women that pursuit reasonal and liberal life in 1970. As he apply tailoed suit's rigidity to women's wear, he made 'pants look' universal in women's wear through“Dress for success”in modern life. Armani apply successful modern image to women's wear, so he express women's image of confident intellegent as well as feminine image. He focus women's new image as man living liberal and indivisual life excluding social category rather than will of equality of man and women. Gernreich break sexual prejudice and release women freely, furthermore, as he express concern of sexuality pursuit liberty of mankind surpassing sex distinction with women liberty. Gianni Versace pursuit mix and extinguishment of sexual image many-sided, and break fixed idea of sex, and reprovide feminine and masculine image. So his design tend homosexuality because he regard women's glamor and ostensible sexuality as standard of beauty, he apply this to man's wear as well as women's wear. With this, he expresses sensitive and liberal man's that break characteristic of Gender that symbolize power and authority in man's wear through 'Without ties'.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.25-35
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• 2006

This study investigated the scheme for correctly making Korean fashion design known to the world. It attempted to increase the influence of the Eighteenth Century Costume in contemporary fashion. During the 18th century, France had an almost complete monopoly of fashion. Growing out the fairyland atmosphere of the French Court and often conceived of as ennui by personal vanity, this fashion was a product of an age which sought at any price to live life with supreme grace. Most of the special costume exhibitions in the Metropolitan Museum of Art are planned and directed by Polaire Weissman, Diana Vreeland, Richard Martin, Harold Koda. The Costume Institute has held exhibitions of the Eighteenth Century Costume several times such as "Museum Period Rooms Re-Occupied in Style," "the Eighteenth Century Women," "the Ceaseless Century," "Dangerous Liaisons," etc. Especially, the exhibition of "Dangerous Liaisons" is organized in ten parts such as the Portrait, the Levee, the Music Lesson, the Withdrawing Room, the Broken Vase, the Favorite, the Masked Beauty, the Card Game, the Late Supper, and the Shop. Using the eighteenth century as its touchstone, The Ceaseless Century proceeds differently, not seeking the short distance between a discrete present and the multiple past but rather showing the complicated navigation that comes of revivalism swing to and fro on the timeline of history and sensibility. The designers featured include Karl Lagerfeld, Gianni Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balencicga, Christian Lacroix, Stella McCartney forChloe, Olivier Theyskens, Alexander McQueen, etc. Therefore, Korean designers should refrain from (Ed-confirm) the foreign collection without a clear purpose and should devote their effort to create with an active attitude.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.165-175
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• 2008

A cross-cultural study was carried out in Germany and in South Korea in order to investigate the relationship between brand personality and product personality facilitating the three dimensions of personality agreeableness, excitement, and extroversion. Two pairs of shoes were prepared across categories of product function symbolic (a pair of high-heeled shoes) versus utilitarian (a pair of sport shoes). In experiments, each pair of shoes was labeled as a luxury brand ("Versace") or a casual brand ("C&A", Germany; "Migliore", South Korea) or left unlabeled. Prior to the experiments, an expert group in each country evaluated the brand personality in terms of "cheerful" (agreeableness), "honest"(conscientiousness), and "provocative" (extroversion) and the results were considered as a baseline. In Experiment I and II, subjects were exposed to two pairs of shoes labeled in one of the three ways and assessed the personality of both pairs of shoes using the personality traits, cheerful, honest, and provocative. Identical versions of the experiment were conveyed in Germany (N=56), an individualist culture, and in South Korea (N=72), a collectivist culture, and we purposed to find cultural differences in evaluating product personalities influenced by brands. The empirical results do not show any significant influence of brand personality on product personality in either cultural group (p>.05). Nevertheless, the subjects estimated the retail price of the shoes to be significantly different depending on the brands in both cultural groups (p<.001).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권9_10호
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• pp.1329-1340
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to survey about the images of the sexy clothes that young women sympathize in modern society, that is, to make a research into the cognitive dimensions of 'Sexy image' and the constructive peculiarity of clothing. The researches into dimension of image by sexy clothing make that female mainly consist of in their twenties during May to October in 2003. The independent variables were: 1) The physical beauty dimension, 2) The negative estimate dimension, 3) The characteristic devaluation dimension,4) The elegance/ high grade dimension,5) The freshness/ beauty dimension,6) The sex appeal/ exposure dimension. Judging from each characteristic of costume in classified by articles, that is, colors, texture, shapes, details, and others-phenomenon of outerization of under clothing, print. We can know the clothes showing up our nice figures are the sleeveless design tied with strap, soft texture as silk chiffon and the colors that are not strong. And there were no embarrassed, ugly and pitiful clothing. Expressing sexy beauty by clothing is the result that the wearer produces intentionally by compounding design factors, it's the ideal when the observer's reaction and the wearer's intention correspond. Therefore, it will be helpful in expressing ideally if the subject, what kinds of sexy beauty the compounding design factors express, is studied carefully. Also it is expected to be used in grasping modem consumers' desires that want to look sexy, finding out how to express, dealing with the consumers' desires correctly, and the reference materials of the planning goods, sales promotion, and selecting of a medium of advertisement according to the consumers' desires.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.293-312
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• 1997

Deconstructionism is a philosophical stream in the latter half of 20'th century which goes against western metaphysics and tries to deconstruct the dualism e.g. eastern/west-ern man/woman. Its main concepts are 'indi-vidual' 'other' 'difference' 'restoration of the repressed' 'decentralization' 'Today it shows strong influences in literature art, and other social fields. This study investigated inner meanings and exterior forms represented in clothing on the base of Jacques Derrida's theory in order to re-search modes of deconstruction in is. And it compared clothing with architecture among other genres of art in order to discover similarities between through and modes of art in a certain period. For illuminating concept of deconstruction I referred to the literatures of preceding studies and for deconstruction's characteristics in both clothing and architec-ture I referred work's collection book $\ulcorner$collec-tions$\lrcorner$ and other related books dealing from 1960's to this point. As a rsult there are four modes of decons-truction in both clothing and architecture as follows; 1) Differenance which is a concept of the dif-ference in time and space as being trace. 2) In termeaning of meanings which is not present in reality but re-interpreted a new in the future. 3) Interxtuality in which a texte is not alone but with others 4) Dis.De phenomenon in which distortion and fragmentation forms occur as the result of the denial of perfection and reson. There are characteristics of modes of de-construction in clothing as follows; 1) Differance; R.Gigli, P. Rabanne. G.Bersace, V.Westwood are representatives of the cloth-ing which is combined with the past the pres-ent and the future or is re-viewed as the clothing of the past in the present point of view. J. Watanabe R. Dawakubo I miyake are representatives of the clothing which is out-date but re-viewed in the sense of recollec-tion and re-usage. 2) Intermeaning of meanings: R. kawakubo I, Miyake Y,Yamamoto are representatives of the clothing which is incomplete but re-interpreted in the future and appears to be new-fashioned according to ways of bnding wearing throwing on and tying J.C. Castel-bajac K.Hamnett S.Sprouse are representa-tives of the clothing which is made up of ab -stract forms scribbling or symbolic letters which appears to be different according to view-point of observers. 3) Intertextuality ;J.P.Gaultier K.Hamnett, Comme des Gar ons are representatives of intertextuality of gender which avoids the 여-ality of man/woman J.P Gaultier G,Versace J. galliano are representatives of the intertex-tuality of time place and occasion which mixes temporality extensity and purposiveness. J.P Gaultier G,Versace are representatives of the intertextuality of coordination which combines items different in image purpose and use. P.Rabanne A,Courr ges R,Gernreic I,Miyake are representatives of the intertextuality of mat-ter which uses heterogeneous matter different from cloth. 4) Dis.De-phenomenon: R, Kawakubo I.Mi-yake J.P.Gaultier are representatives of the de-composition which discloses distortion and exag-geration of form through destructing the estab-lished way of construction J.Galliano R.Kawa-kubo Devota Y Lomba arte representatives of the decentring which restores the repressed and the alienated on the one hane and shows front-centrality on the other. Comme des Gar ones is representative of the discontinuity because of which right and left up and down are not in har-mony with one another. J,Galliano J.P,Gaultier T,Mugler are representatives of the disruption by way of which one makes one's body exposed through intentional slashes or holes. As a consequence deconstructionism enabled us to investigate similarities between through of deconstruction and modes of art interms of diffrance Intermeaning of meanings intertextuality and Dis De-phenomenon. And we found that deconstruction was a phase of development in that it as a all-comprising and multiple concept tries to pursue the new through deconstruction.

• 지능정보연구
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2018

최근 딥러닝은 오디오, 텍스트 및 이미지 데이터와 같은 비 체계적인 데이터를 대상으로 다양한 추정, 분류 및 예측 문제에 사용 및 적용되고 있다. 특히, 의류산업에 적용될 경우 딥러닝 기법을 활용한 의류 인식, 의류 검색, 자동 제품 추천 등의 심층 학습을 기반으로 한 응용이 가능하다. 이 때의 핵심모형은 합성곱 신경망을 사용한 이미지 분류이다. 합성곱 신경망은 입력이 전달되고 출력에 도달하는 과정에서 가중치와 같은 매개 변수를 학습하는 뉴런으로 구성되고, 영상 분류에 가장 적합한 방법론으로 사용된다. 기존의 의류 이미지 분류 작업에서 대부분의 분류 모형은 의류 이미지 자체 또는 전문모델 착용 의류와 같이 통제된 상황에서 촬영되는 온라인 제품 이미지를 사용하여 학습을 수행한다. 하지만 본 연구에서는 통제되지 않은 상황에서 촬영되고 사람들의 움직임과 다양한 포즈가 포함된 스트릿 패션 이미지 또는 런웨이 이미지를 분류하려는 상황을 고려하여 분류 모형을 훈련시키는 효과적인 방법을 제안한다. 이동성을 포착하는 런웨이 의류 이미지로 모형을 학습시킴으로써 분류 모형의 다양한 쿼리 이미지에 대한 적응력을 높일 수 있다. 모형 학습 시 먼저 ImageNet 데이터셋을 사용하여 pre-training 과정을 거치고 본 연구를 위해 수집된 32 개 주요 패션 브랜드의 2426개 런웨이 이미지로 구성된 데이터셋을 사용하여 fine-tuning을 수행한다. 학습 과정의 일반화를 고려해 10번의 실험을 수행하고 제안된 모형은 최종 테스트에서 67.2 %의 정확도를 기록했다. 본 연구 모형은 쿼리 이미지가 런웨이 이미지, 제품 이미지 또는 스트릿 패션 이미지가 될 수 있는 다양한 분류 환경에 적용될 수 있다. 구체적으로는 패션 위크에서 모바일 어플리케이션 서비스를 통해 브랜드 검색을 용이하게 하는 서비스를 제공하거나, 패션 잡지사의 편집 작업에 사용되어 브랜드나 스타일을 분류하고 라벨을 붙일 수 있으며, 온라인 쇼핑몰에서 아이템 정보를 제공하거나 유사한 아이템을 추천하는 등의 다양한 목적에 적용될 수 있다.