• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.74-88
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to explore university students' Hanbok rental behavior and to examine factors that influence their intention to rent Hanbok. Questionnaires were distributed in Universities in the Seoul metropolitan area, and the final 202 responses were used for data analysis. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, cluster analysis, t-tests, and multiple regressions analysis were used. Sixty-one percent of those who have experienced Hanbok rental said they rented Hanboks to experience tourism and 22 percent said they rented Hanboks to take pictures, and the main rental places are tourist attractions such as Jeonju Hanok Village. Respondents indicated that the design and color of Hanbok were important product attributes when they consider renting a Hanbok. They also indicated that the opinions of other users posted on the Internet/Social Network were their main source of information for Hanbok rental. The result of cluster analysis showed that there were two groups of Hanbok rental consumers based on clothing consumption values: novelty-seeking group and practicality-seeking group. The two groups were different in terms of few factors of the benefit sought of Hanbok rental, product attributes, and information sources. Regression analysis revealed that traditional culture perception, purpose-built Hanbok pursuit benefit, pragmatic pursuit benefit, attitude toward Hanbok, and the previous Hanbok rental experience significantly affected respondents' intention to rent Hanbok. Based on the results, this study summarizes the key features of each group and provides suggestion for developing strategic marketing activities.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.185-203
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to reveal the modern succession and reinterpretation of brand identity through the case of Balenciaga design presented by Demna Gvasalia through a review of the literature, design collection, and design review analysis. The design collection analysis was conducted from 2016 F/W to 2020 F/W, when Demna Gvasalia commenced responsibility for the Balenciaga collection. A total of 12 articles from overseas fashion magazines and newspapers were analyzed. A modern reinterpretation of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga design is as follows. First, he introduced luxury mode to reflect a sense of the times and introduced luxury street looks based on street and sports sensibilities, showing various styles without specific concepts. Second, by sharing universal sensibilities based on pragmatism, he proposed an easy-to-wear outfit for daily life to demonstrate the everydayness of fashion. Third, as a new exploration of traditional structural beauty, the design of Cristobal Balenciaga was reinterpreted through the conversion of items, overlapping outfits, and the introduction of high-tech technologies. Fourth, by taking a conceptual approach to fashion, he has renewed the spirit of experimentation and modernity shown by Cristobal Balenciaga. Fifth, with the presentation of a new icon, new styles of sneakers such as Triple S and Speed Runner are presented as new icons. He inherited the original mindset and creative approach of the house's founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, and reinterpreted it from a contemporary street sensibility and pragmatic perspective.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.572-584
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• 2021

The emergence of environmental and social issues has led to global discussions for the realization of sustainable development. The purpose of this study is to propose a method of sustainable fashion design using waste Hanbok, focusing on men's Hanbok with cultural values. The study utilizes literature research and fashion design development. From the literature study, reform was judged to be a higher concept encompassing reduction, recycling, and upcycling. Reduction is a design method through removal, and recycling design transforms from its original form into a completely different product. Upcycling design focuses on improvement and change in functionality. Accordingly, nine redesigns using men's Hanbok were developed from which three were produced. Consequently, the reduction design demonstrated a small range of variation without changing the item, and cultural sustainability was confirmed through the design that removed the components and recombined the Hanbok. Second, recycling redesign can be reconstituted into a different item. Third, upcycling enables various designs through module assembly, which prolongs the lifespan of the product and confirms its value as a raw material for waste Hanbok. This study is meaningful in realizing sustainable fashion and suggesting practical measures for the sustainability of Korean traditional culture and creative fashion design planning.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.608-630
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to examine the relationships between citations and the research trends of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (RJCC) using bibliometric and network analyses. The results are as follows. First, the RJCC has been cited by a greater number of journals and high-reputation journals today. The RJCC has been mentioned in global academic journals in various fields, and it has been noted the most in environmental science. Second, because of examining the articles published in the RJCC over the past three years (2019 - 2021), it was found that the number of topics was evenly distributed in various subfields of the clothing and textiles sector. The RJCC principally deals with traditional clothing, ethics and sustainability, and technology, which means that the RJCC reflects the past, present, and future. As a result of conducting a cluster analysis using the Wakita-Tsurumi algorithm, the subjects of ethical fashion and sustainability were derived from the subdivisions of the RJCC. This suggests that the RJCC is a journal specialized in ethical fashion and sustainability sectors such as environmental, animal, and labor ethics. This study outlined the current status and future direction of academic journals in the field of clothing through an analysis of the RJCC's influence change and the relationship between citations. In addition, it is academically significant because it identifies research trends and knowledge-structure changes in the apparel science field by identifying changes in research keywords and significant research topics by sector.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.215-231
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• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.378-385
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• 2006

To release fashion trends in an efficient way, many of the apparel business and fashion educational institutes in land adopt fashion shows employing fashion models. Modeling rather than flat pattern making realizes the majority of the complicated design works for the fashion shows. However, for the different measurements between the dress form and the real human model, problems often occur during the modeling and fitting processes. Researches on the standard dress form development representing professional fashion models' features are therefore in urgent need to enable the related apparel business and fashion institutes to make appropriate use of the dress form in their jobs. The study has been conducted as a preliminary study using a questionnaire method ultimately to develop the female dress form. A questionnaire in the research aimed at an investigation into the actual conditions of and satisfaction with the usage and the body measurements of existed dress forms. Approximately 30 fashion-related educational institutes and 10 apparel companies responded to the survey. Data derived from the survey was analyzed using SPSS version 10.1, the statistics tool. The results throughout the research were discussed in terms of largely three categories that are; (1) the general conditions of the usage of the dress form to prepare fashion shows: e.g. the frequency of holding the fashion show in an annual term, the proportion of professional and amateur models employed for the fashion show, the methods to construct garments, types and number of dress forms utilized and etc.; (2) factors considered to purchase the dress form e.g. its functionality, shapes, sizes, duration, price, A/S condition and etc.; and(3) satisfaction with the similarity between the dress form and the human body in the relation to the body measurements. Measurements in length wise, front and back waist lengths, neck to bust point on the dress forms were apparently differed from the ones of the actual body. In particular, differed torso length measurements cause the problem to have to alter the whole silhouette, consequently, the resultant patterns as well. In girth measurements, in order of bust and waist girths, the satisfaction was low.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.77-87
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• 1991

The purpose of this study were to investigate the bed climate and the physiological responses in sleep on the traditional Korean floor heating system called Ondol. Ondol has been the most widely used heating system in Korea, yet there has been a no systematic studies examined its environmental effects on human body. Experimental room was constructed to match the typical thermal environment of Ondol. (floor surface temperature; $32\~33^{\circ}C$, air temperature; $22.5{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$, relative humidity; $64.0{\pm}4.0\%$RH, air velocity; 0.25 m/sec.) Three different combinations of bedclothes were chosen for the experiment based on the study results showing that they were the most widely used types in Korea. Type 1 was the combination of a cotton-padded mattress with a cotton-padded Korean style blanket. Type 2 was a cotton-padded mattress with a cotton-guilted Korean style blanket. Type 3 was a cotton-padded matless with a polyacryl blanket. Thermal resistance of each of these combina-tions in the bedclothes was measured using thermal manikin. Two adult female was chosen for the seven hour sleeping experiment which was known to be the average sleeping hours of Korean adult female. The bed climate was measured with the temperature under the mattress, the surface temper-ature of the mattress, and the air temperature and the relative humidity of the space between the mattress and blanket. The skin temperature, rectal temperature of the subjects and the bed climate were measured eight times, one hour before the experiment and every hour during the experiment. The weight loss and the subjective sensation were measured for the each subjects before and after the experiment. The procedure was repeated twice with two subjects and three types of bedclothes, yielding twelve combinations of results. The results were as follows; 1. With the surface temperature of $32\~33^{\circ}C$ of Ondol, air temperature was $22.5{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$ with $64.0{\pm}4.0\%$ RH. The bed climates were $39.2{\pm}40.8^{\circ}C$ under the mattress, $35.3\~36.2^{\circ}C$ on the mattress, and $26.9\~32.0^{\circ}C$ with $56.0\~71.3\%$ RH between the mattress and the blanket. 2. Mean skim temperature during sleep was 34.2"C with local skin temperature of $34.0\~35.5^{\circ}C$. The skin temperatures of abdomen, thigh, foot were higher than the other parts of the body. 3. The skin temperature of chest, thigh, leg and back varied significantly according to the combinations of bedclothes. With the cotton-padded blanket, the skin temperature was the highest, while with the cotton-guilted blanket showed lowest. 4. Examining the relationship between the mean skin temperature and the local skin temper-ature, the chest temperature showed the highest correlation with the former. Therefore, the chest temperature can be recommended to represent the skin temperature in measuring the bed climate. 5. The subjective bed climates were $39.0\~40.4^{\circ}C$ under the mattress, $35.2\~35.9^{\circ}C$ on the mattress, $29.8\~31.6^{\circ}C$ with $56.8\~68.4\%$ RH between the mattress and blanket. In sum, from this experiment we not only obtained the reliable value of bed climates on Ondol, but also showed that the bed climates and the physiological responses were affected differently according to the materials of bed clothes.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.141-154
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• 2016

The gilt-bronze decorated bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in 1973 at Cheonma Tomb of Shilla are the unprecedented relics in Korean history as it has its original structure. Although the bamboo mudguards were excavated in not only Cheonma Tomb, but also in Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong, all of them remains into pieces. In addition, there are no exact data related with its structure and manufacturing technique. The report deals with the manufacturing technique of the bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in Cheonma Tomb through the naked eye's observation, X-Ray Fluorescence, and Transmission X-rays analysis etc. Bamboo mudguards basically have the three divided structure with central-focus structure of a radiation style. And the mudguards consists of Bratticing gilt-bronze, fabric, and bamboo plates together, as ornamental fringe of 4 plates. The surface of the gilt bronze plates was decorated with a variety of workmanship and pendant. Bamboo plates have a waved pattern by using about three hundred bamboo bark. Two types of textiles were mainly found in the textile plates, and the leather were partially found. In order to combine all plates together, gilt-bronze bottonhead, pendant decoration, and ornamental fringe were used. It would be helpful to study bamboo mudguards during 5th-6th centuries in Shilla period and basis investigations of Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong excavations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2013

With environmental pollution becoming a serious problem, recently there has been increased interest in the environment and health. In addition, the development of materials for environmentally friendly and functional clothing has increased. Environmentally friendly products that use bark fibers of the mulberry(dak) tree are expressed in terms of dak fiber and Hanji yarn. This research analyzed consumer's perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing. The research results are as follows. Based on analyzing images of Hanji and Hanji yarn, Hanji was categorized into four images that can be described as natural, pure, decorative, and functional, and Hanji yarn infant clothing was categorized into three images that can be described as natural, decorative, and functional. Based on the analysis of well-being elements in subjects' lifestyles, the following four inclinations were found: environmental friendliness, pursuit of novelty, life care, and environmental protection. On this basis, the subjects were categorized into three groups: the trend-pursuing group, the life-care group, and the social responsibility group. Subjects' perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing were investigated, and these products were found to have a strong image of being Korean, traditional, and natural, while being weakly perceived as comfortable, functional, and practical. Analyzing the correlation between images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing and lifestyle groups revealed that these products were not perceived differently according to group. This study showed that Hanji and Hanji yarn are terms that are commonly associated with positive clothing material. However, both Hanji and Hanji yarn are perceived negatively in terms of functional image, which is an important factor in clothing material. In addition, even among consumers who pursue a lifestyle based on well-being, the functional image of Hanji yarn was not perceived highly. Hence, it is necessary to further examine the effect of terms such as Hanji and Hanji yarn on consumer choices. Therefore, caution is considered needed when using such terms in the marketing of related products.