• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.25-42
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• 2005

Costume is a formative art expressed by active human unlike the field of other living formativeness, and an expression of social actions based on a style of culture in a period. Therefore, costume has a deep connection with a mode of living and is recognized as a 'culture for living', and is more characteristic culture than all metaphysical cultures including architecture, craft, painting, and sculpture. Therefore, it expresses wearer's status or social standing, and furthermore, ideas and values of the times with aesthetic features in their form, color, materials, and pattern, so it is expressed as a mirror reflecting the phases of the times as. Korean costume had been dressed until the period of the Joseon Dynasty without a great change and started to be simplified in a simple style on the grounds of inconvenience in behaviors with the opening of an interchange of Western culture in the civilized period. And, this movement had been continued and Korean costume had been applied as an everyday dress under the name of 'Reformed Korean Costume'. Since the middle phase of 1980s, it aroused many people's interests with the introduction of designs focused on activity and convenience. In 1990's, many people had taken a growing interest in Korean costume with development of various designs keeping pace with the internationalization period and Korean Costume had been revitalized under the name of 'The Modernized Korean Costume'. And, since the 21st century, the advanced communication and full-scaled import of Western fashion have made the introduction of many fashion information in the world into Korea, affected greatly the fashion market, led consumers' sensitivity on a trend to be increased. Therefore, a design accepting a trend 'The Modernized Korean Costume' with fashions has risen. Second, this study is an attempt to suggest a revitalization method of domestic casual Korean costume brands by developing and suggesting competitive and highly value-added products with connection of practicality, variety, and highly sensitive fashion styles. For theoretical study, domestic and foreign literatures, academic journals, professional monthly magazines, and newspapers were examined. And, a process of change and features of the Korean fashion since the civilization period, and concept, features and images of casual Korean costume were analyzed, On the basis of analyzing image, features, and consumers' preference of the modernized Korean costume, a design development plan was established and 10 suits of costume were designed and made.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.30-46
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• 2008

This study aims to develop an academic costume design representing the university identity of Seoul Women's University. As a formal dress and uniform symbolizing the dignity of study, academic costume arouses self-esteem of the owner and represents the symbolic order. UI(University Identity) is a system that embodies the identity of the university and create a certain image, and thus actively delivers the image pursued by the university. The study method to develop a new academic costume design of Seoul Women's University includes the theoretical background of UI and academic costume, investigation on the current rendition of academic costume, home and abroad, and a survey to collect the basic data for academic costume design development. Most of the respondents presented negative opinions on the existing academic costume and graduation cap, which do not show any clear distinction from those of other universities. They made a pressing demand for the development of an academic costume that well represents the image of the university by reflecting the university feature and symbol. As a result of the survey, it turned out that they preferred an academic costume with short length balloon sleeves to the exiting one, and that as for neck line and front hook, those of the existing one were preferred. This study developed and presented 9 different models of graduation gowns and 5 different caps based on the theoretical investigation and survey concerning academic costume. It is expected that the academic costume representing the university identity not only arouses self-esteem of the owner, but also enhances the university's position.

• 지역과문화
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.183-208
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• 2020

국제 행사에서 개최지역 문화와 국제사회의 흐름에 부합하는 상징적 개념을 제시하면 세계인의 호응을 얻어 개최지역의 이미지도 올릴 수 있다. 국제 행사 마스코트는 개최지역의 고유한 문화를 상징적으로 나타내며, 구성원의 소속감과 자긍심을 높이고 개최지역의 이미지를 대외적으로 친근하게 나타낼 수 있는 좋은 수단이다. 본 연구는 국제축구연맹(FIFA)의 축구월드컵 행사 마스코트에 반영된 지역 특성과 상징 표현 요소에 대하여 고찰하였다. 1966년부터 2018년까지 개최된 축구월드컵 행사 마스코트는 총 14개로 이들의 소재는 동물, 식물, 사람, 창작 등으로 나누어볼 수 있다. 마스코트에는 지역의 특산물, 개최 지역의 국기, 상징적인 복장, 개최지역 언어, 사회적 논점 등의 지역 특성이 적용되었으며, 마스코트의 복장, 자세, 소품과 행사 관련 문자가 상징 표현 요소로 사용되었다. 연구를 통해 도출된 시사점은 첫째, 마스코트는 지역 특성보다는 행사 주제인 '축구'상징 요소를 더 강하게 표현하고 있었다. 둘째, 지역 특성 표현 요소 중에는 '국기'를 활용한 사례가 돋보였다. 셋째, 마스코트 소재는 '동물'이 선호되었다. 넷째, 마스코트가 '문화향품'과 접목하게 되고, 사회적 경각심을 불러일으키는 등의 확장된 역할을 하게 되었다. 이 연구에서 제기한 특성 및 상징 표현 요소 분류에서 도출된 시사점은 국제 행사 마스코트 기획의 기초자료로 활용될 것이다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1050-1063
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• 2008

A movie is a fiction made on a basis of an author's and a writer's imagination, but all sorts of properties mixed with each other and most realistically expresses the era which becomes the background of a movie and acts as a carrier that connects designers with consumers. Thus, this study was carried out to review how the fashion products that designer's intention and commercial value added are expressed in collections by comparing and analysing the costumes in the movie "The Great Gatsby" that described the life of America's upper-class in 1920s and the 04 S/S Y&Kei collection which were proceeding after getting inspiration from this movie. For this, literature materials were inspected in order to make a theoretical review on social and cultural background and costumes history background in 1920s and the photo materials on movie costume were collected and analysed using DVD video captures, as well as the photo materials on 04 S/S Y&Kei were collected and analyzed through the institute providing domestic fashion information. The following conclusion was deduced through this study. First, in 1920s which becomes the background of this study, the slim shape of Flapper which looks like a young and boy became an ideal figure condition and the straight silhouette with low waist line and the short skirt that rose to knee was popular. Second, as a result of analysing movie costume by classifying it in silhouette, colors, and materials, straight silhouette of low waistline with a near colored - tone seen in the pastel series, including white, beige, pink, and gray was mainly constituted and the metal colors like silver and gold were used. As a material, chiffon, satin, velvet, flower patterned prints, and beads were used, which represented luxurious life of women in the upper classes. Third, as a result of comparing and analysing, it turned out that there was a similarity. However, in dress collection for a heroine, some dissimilarity differentiated from a movie costumes was found out in that the dresses in collection expressed moderate beauty and modernism and elegant beauty at the same time by matching a variety of materials and using black color.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.105-125
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• 1992

The research, aiming an automatic pattern design of Korean Costume by utilizing CAD system, tried Grading, Seaming and Marking with a theme of girl's color-strip blouse & skirt. The content & conclusion of the research can be outlined as follows; 1) As we reviewed the current situation of Korean costume which becomes more likely celebrational or festival costume, while the demand of it is getting increase, it's being dealt mostly as ready-made dresses with different qualities & designs. Especially childrens ready-made ones were highly demanded to be picked up as the theme. 2) For the original drawing of children's color-strip blouse & skirt, Kyung-Ja Park's drawing method was used here, and for the substitute of particular body parts absolute size, Joo-Won Lee's standard size chart from a size-study by ages. 3) To work with CAD system we had input master pattern, drawn for age 5 as basic size, then graded six step-sizes for 1-11 years old. For add-subtract of particular body parts size, we graded through computing the standard variation among items to get the pattern developed into ready-made standard size, we can make precise plotting by grading wanted size very rapidly if we correct the rule of changed items different from standard size to make utilization possible enough with easy order method of ready-made Korean Dress. 4) We produced Marker after attaching a margin to seam accordingly by parts for each pattern using P/D/S to mark, In mass gament-cutting, the loss of time and material can minimized. In this research the apparel CAD system which has been utilized and only be western fashion industry was introduced for the design of ready-made Korean costume and utilized it in Grading, Marking which are critical steps to improve productivity and have reported the result in the research. Thus we expect that less cost, improved productivity and better quality with minimized loss of material from marking as well as from prompt and precise size-drawing. Furthermore the utilization of CAD system is considered as an effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove irrational elements in the design and production process of Korean costume as well as in terms of the study of Korean Costume development through creative works of Korean Costume.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.613-625
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• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.15-35
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• 2018

본 연구의 목적은 2015 개정 교육과정이 반영된 기술·가정(의생활 영역) 교과서 12종을 비교하여 새로운 교육내용에 대한 정보를 제공하는데 있다. 구체적으로 의생활 영역의 단원 세부 구성 체제 및 학습목표, 분량, 삽화, 진로 교육 내용 등을 분석하였다. 또한 현재 교과서의 내용 측면의 장점은 무엇인지 파악해보고, 앞으로의 개선방향도 제시해 보고자 하였다. 연구 결과 교과서 집필진 수가 가장 많은 교과서는 19명, 가장 적은 교과서는 9명으로 10명의 차이가 났다. 단원 구성은 12종의 교과서 모두 대단원은 2개로, 중단원은 2개 또는 4개로 유사하였으나, 소단원은 교과서별로 단원명과 개수가 가장 상이하게 나타났다. 단원의 세부 구성은 도입, 전개, 정리 체제로 용어는 다르지만 비슷한 흐름으로 제시 되었고, 교과서마다 특색 있는 자료 및 활동을 제시하였다. 분량 분석은 가장 많은 교과서가 38쪽, 가장 적은 교과서가 24쪽으로 차이가 있었다. 교과서의 삽화는 그림이 가장 많이 수록되어 있었고, 사진, 표, 그래프 순이었다. 삽화가 가장 많이 제시된 교과서는 총 69개이고, 가장 적게 제시된 교과서는 38개로 큰 차이를 보였다. 마지막으로 진로교육의 반영에서는 12개의 교과서 중에서 8개의 교과서가 진로 관련 내용을 반영하고 있었다. 교과서마다 집필진 수, 분량, 삽화의 사용수는 달랐으나 내용적인 측면에서는 대부분 2009 개정 교과 내용은 대부분 그대로 다루면서 의복의 의미, 구매 계획, 옷차림, 창의적 의생활이라는 주제를 추가시켜 교육목표를 넓은 범위로 확대시키며 구체적인 학습목표도 제시하였다. 결론적으로 2015 개정은 미래사회를 이끌어갈 인재 육성이 가능하도록 구체적인 지침을 제시하고, 자기주도적 학습이 가능하도록 하는 것이 장점이었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.830-843
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• 2016

The world wide increase of obesity and demands for various plus-size fashion are expanding the global plus-size fashion market. This study is to understand the market status of the US (the biggest plus-size fashion market) as well as analyze women's fashion shown in power blogs on the plus-size fashion trend. For research methods, photos from the top 10 globally ranked plus-size power blogs on Alexa.com were collected and divided into 5 plus-size body types based on: design factors, style, color, item, and texture. Pants with tops or completed outfits including pants, tops, and outer were the most common for casual styles; in addition, a tendency to pursue comfortable and naturally fitted clothes was also indicated. As for colors, the most common were blue colors and white or pastel toned colors; in addition, soft, hard, and transparent were all evenly used for materials. One-piece items were the most popular formal style that were mostly a one-tone color made with hard materials indicated by the pursuit of the fanciness and formality of a dress for a formal occasion. Black was the most common color, and the color variation was less diverse compared to that of casual styles. The most common for semi-formal styles were outfits with movability and more fanciness such as wearing a casual outer on top of a formal one-piece. When examining the fashion in plus-size blogs, there are differences in the frequency of design factors due to the diversity of body-types; in addition, different items were shown to be preferred in accordance with styles. The results of this study will help fashion companies who want to enter the global plus-size women's fashion market (including the US market); in addition, research on plus-size fashion that is changing the fashion and aesthetic paradigm is expected to contribute to academia.

• 복식
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• 제12권
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• pp.9-23
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• 1988

This study is on the costumes for Korean traditional play, Nong-ak(farm music), and intends to analyze their aesthetic features, laying emphasis on Pilbong Nong-ak, Im sil, Chollanam-do. About its origin there are many kinds of theories; for example, the theory of hoping stability, the theory of it being related with Buddhism, the theory of martial music, etc. Shamanic, Buddhist, and martical fators that support these theories are expressed through flags, bells, drums, Deograe (half-coats), Cheonrips (sang-mo, felf hats), go-kkals(peaked hats), colored lines called 'ga-sa', which are used in Nong-ak. The characteristic of the costumes used in Pilbong Nong-ak is that it keeps its conservativeness and the costumes of its members are various and splendid. For example, leader groups' black half coats, Changbu's and Hwa-dong's red and bule over coats are remarkable. Particpants wear gok-kal or cheonrip, trousers and half coats which are the basic costumes of Korean Hanbok, and wear blak half coats or blue vests and put blue, red, and yellow lines around them. The colors and knotting methods of those lines in this region are the same with those of chollawoo-do and Kyongi province, but different form those of Kongwon and Kyong-sang province using green, red, and yellow colors. This comparison of colors shows each region's preference of peculiar colors and those colors coincide with colors used in flags. The research on the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes through each region's clothes tells us that these can be linear clothes which have expressiveness as stage clothes used in Madangori, the play which is performed in the field, and modern spatial formativeness. Those characteristics are as follows; 1. The expressions of a rhythmical and daring round line by turning a long line of sang-mo. 2. Various rhythms according to the attaching methods. 3. The expressions of thick, simple, and daring color lines. 4. Natural beauty of materials. 5. The popular simplicity and non-technicality 6. The beauty of five-direction colors, Oriental ideal colors Consequently in this study our national consciousness of beauty are examined through clothes. It is suggested that the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes and ornaments should be effectively expressed, for this purpose. interests in participants' clothes should be increased in order to prevent the confusion of each region's features. Also it is necessary to improve color lines, their length, width, and knotting methods, and beautify instrument. Finally this study intends to bring the reappraisal about the art of Nong-ak clothes and its re-establishment in view of modern aesthetic consciousness.

• 시큐리티연구
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• 제10호
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• pp.293-322
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• 2005

본 연구는 형사책임과 관련성이 있다고 생각되는 일치추론이론과 외부귀인이론 등을 통해 도의적 책임판단에 관한 범죄심리학적 이론을 연구하여 미국에서 배심원이 유무죄의 평결을 도출해 내는 판단과정에 관한 이론적 관점들을 접근하고자 한다. 정신장애(insanity)는 형사책임능력에 관한 법적인 개념이며 임상적인 혹은 정신의학적인 개념이 아니다. 따라서 법체계가 다르면 정신장애의 정의도 달라지게 마련이다. 우리나 라 법과 미국의 법은 서로 매우 다른 체계를 가지고 있어서 미국법의 개념들이 한국법의 개념들과 불일치하는 경우가 매우 많은데, 형사책임능력에 관한 법이론적 개념들이 그 대표적인 예라고 할 수 있다. 우리나라의 형법은 심신상실(형사책임무능력)과 심신미약(한정책임능력)을 구분함으로 미국이나 영국에서 이용되는 정신장애의 개념이 직접 적용되지 않는다. 그럼에도 불구하고 최근에 들어 한국에서도 미국의 법에서 사용되는 정신장애의 개념에 대한 관심이 높아지고 있고, 형사책임의 법적판단에 임상적인 자료 및 전문가 의견이 큰 비중으로 고려되고 있으므로 법학과 심리과학(학문적 글로벌 개념)과 사이에 상호간 진지한 논의와 협력이 요구된다. 한국에서의 정신장애에 대한 정의와 구체적 기준들은 한국 형법의 전반적인 이론적 맥락에서 구축되어야 함은 분명한 것으로 사료된다. 그러나 그러한 조작정의가 객관적 진실을 전혀 도외시한 것이어서는 안된다고 사료되며, 따라서 이 문제에 관하여 실증적인 경험학문을 지향하는 심리학이나 정신의학 등의 행동과학과의 적극적인 협력이 절실히 요구된다.