• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.325-341
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• 1997

One of the noticeable trends of female wear in 1990s is the Outwearization of Underwear as it is called 'Lingerie look' This trend meaned 'Exposure Fashion' raised splendidly its head to the whole stage of fashion destrying the tradional concept having divided the fashion between outwear and underwear by Madonna an Americal populer singer showed up in front of the audience wearing the corset-dress as a stage custome. This corset-dress which can not be recognised whether it is underwear or outwear has been diffused into the mass as a fashionable trend re-gardless of any reason; therefore discrimi-nation of wear by space by far that is underwear should have the sstandard telling between private and public sector has been gradually tumbled. By the way what has propelled desigers to introduce the style continuously having the underwear motive such as outwear almost as same as underwear or underwear worn on out-wear etc. and has made it a fashion trends? How do we accept this "Ligerie look'fashion" The rearch on vogue of outwearization of underwear started by the questions above can be summarized as the followings The division between the sprit and the ma-terial-economic shrinkage by the collapse of the bubble economy in the late of 20 century and expectation for the next century doubt by changes of international politics dynamics for the next century and increasement of psycho-logical tention by the environmental destruc-tion etc, has been extended to break the sense of value down These frustration of the tra-ditional values and dissatisfaction on the pres-ent have reflected on the fashion pursuing some more sensational style to increase the ex-posure of the body. The revolution of wearing bouncing the con-servatismhas outwardly expressed underwear of the private sector. Therefore the spatial concept of wear which for the public sec-tor has been fallen into pieces and has broken the wall of the concept fixed by outwear on underwear. in addition the stage costome for the popular people like Madonna has not been limited by the specularity any more and has been assimilated with the normal wear on the street to take the distinction for away. The circumstances of the late of 20 century pursuing sensation and making sex commer-cialized have accordance with the outweari-zation of underwear. there it is on the basis of Minimalist's dogmatism has been expressed the maximization of expoure in the pubric space to popularize bra pants(knickers) as outwear. The reaction on the attribute of hiding and shanding has brought 'See-Through fashion' with the transparent materials, The contemporary doubt recalling the mem-ory of the past has sublimated corset which was an instument of toture for women into Romanticism to introduce it to fashion with the development of a new material not to be a tool of any oppression and maltretment any longer. The popularization of outwear like underwear what's more has brought high quality of underwear. There it has called for the variety of materials such as knit demin and velvet etc, and has urged the famous designers to enlarge their working boundaries to underwear designs, Besides outwearization of underwear has been popular even in the Orient which has the con-servative opinions on exposure ; so changes of the thoughts can be seen among the establish-ment generation on exposure of the body. As the more high tech information publi-cized and the more technology and media digitalized the more expression being analog the pursue for the new in fashion with vision never been seen and even though it is imprac-tical the experimental designers have drived the freedom beyond the traditional roles of the previous century. Consequently outwearization of underwear may be viewd as a trial as an expression responded the contemporary background. This trend in my opinion will have been lasted for a while by being proliperlated among lasted for a while by being proliperlated among the pub-lic who has the century-end anxiety and doubt and expectation for the next century.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.

• 복식
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• 제2권
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• pp.73-88
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• 1978

This article is an attempt to explain, at least in part, the contemporary Korean women's consciousness of Western Dreasses. As time changes, the role of clothing undergoes varisous transitions, while values and ways of life are constantly in change. It is, therefore, proper and appropriate to recognize as among the major aspects of social psychology such phenomenon as interests, understanding of clothing, the choice of a dress, and attitudes toward clothing, etc. The purpose of this study is to discover problems concerning and their clothing and their solutions, by means of a surveying approach. The method of research used is based upon questionares distributed to parents of first-year pupils in elementary schools and to female clerks working in offices, covering the period from August through October, 1976. The number of the questionares distrubuted totalled 600, and 526 were returned to the research to be utilized for analysis. The contents of the survey included such things as values concerning clothing, kinds of clothing and their practical use, the selection of clothing and the method of purchase, fashions, etc. The classification of aquisition are self-made clothing, clothing made to order and ready-made materials. It is composed of 25 items, including affirmative reasons as well as negative ones. The processing of the material returned was made by using the computer, and based upon classifications such as ages, monthly income, occupations; thus diagraming the result in percentages. The conclusion made and the improvements proposed are as follows: 1. The values of clothing were placed on the expression of the wearer's personality (32.7) and on eauty(28. 6%). The lower age group places is stress upon the expression of personality, while the higher age group stresses beauty. About 50% of wearers are contented with their clothing, their clothing, the rest of whom them indicating their dissatisfaction with what they wear. As to designs at the time of selection, about 46% indicated their preference of personal expression, 31.8% on usefulness. In selecting material, practicality is emphasized; in selecting patterns, single color is preferred. In short, personal expression and esthetic values are primary, with consideration of practicality in mind. 2. The classification of clothing according to their uses indicates the highest numbers in normal wear (home wears) and clothings to be worn outside home. As to evening dresses, (party dress) only one or two articles were checked by many, and no such article was clamed to be possessed by most. The highest ratio of wearing was shown in the case of home wear (47.3%) and clothing to be worn outside the home, which is 55.8%. The budget for one article of clothing was greatest in the case of home wear, and clothing worn outside the home. Many used both kinds of articles for the same purpose. It is desirable, therefore, that the kinds of clothing should be varied according to the purpose for which they are worn, and that clothing appropriate for that purpose should be worn. 3. The motivation for purchasing clothing was highly chosen in the item of seasonal change, which was 55.7%; Clothing deliberately made was indicated by 45.2%. In the mothods of purchasing clothing, clothing made to order and ready-made was indicated by 44.4%, which is the highest; Clothing made to order was 25.4%, and self-sewing was 1.1%, which is the lowest. (1) In the case of self-sewing, "I like it but it is very hard," was checked by 43.6%; "It is so difficult that I cannot wear such clothing" was checked by 13.3%. From these, we can conclude that the questionees are willing to make clothing by themselves, but techniques involved in sewing and at her problems involved in the skill are complicated but when those problems are eliminated there is a possibility for practice. The response checked by questionees concerning the self-sewing was, "It's economical", which is a clear indication that many questionees are positive for self-sewing. It is generally believed that ready-made clothing is cheaper, but it is not necessarily so. In consideration of the quality of clothing, self-sewing is a necessity, and it is desirable that it should be encouraged. (3) Problems involved in ready-made clothing, such as designs, skills, size (fitting) should be eliminated. When these problems are scientifically gotten rid of, it is possible that affirmative returns will be expected. Affirmative responses such as "Ready-made clothing is economical," "You can select there on the spot," are good signs that many women expect to wear ready-made clothing. It is in this sense that the prospect for ready-made clothing is brighter when much development for ready-made clothing is on the way. 4. Much concern for fashion are checked in such item of questions as "Fashionable clothing in the show window," "Clothes worn by women." The first item was checked by 50.1 %, and the second was checked by 48.6%. The reason for following fashion is "Because many people wear them," which was indicated by 30.4%. The reason for not following fashion is "It is too expensive," which was checked by 29.6%. The 26.2% of the answers indicated that "Fashionable clothing is devoid of personality," The influences of fashion over the development of fashion over the development of clothing are two-fold: Esthetic and active. It is not to be deniable that people follow fashion more or less. 1978.9>

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.113-123
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• 1998

This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제25권10호
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• pp.255-260
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• 2020

본 논문은 SNS 토픽 모델링을 통해 효율적인 브랜드 아이덴티티 전략을 제안하고자 하며, 토믹 모델링 대상은 SNS는 전 세계적으로 10억이상 사용자와 5억이상 매일 사용자를 가진 인스타그램을 크롤링하였다. 인스타그램의 사용자그룹은 59%가 18~29세, 33%가 30~49세인 것을 감안하여 세개의 최근 런칭한 젊은 세대들을 위한 패션 판매 모바일 사이트를 분석대상으로 하였으며 이들은 각각 SNS을 마케팅 채널로 활용하였다. 각 모바일 사이트들의 서비스 시작후 6개월간 각 회사의 브랜드 명이나 회사명이 태깅된 SNS 포스팅을 크롤링하였으며, 토픽 모델링을 통한 브랜드 이미지 분석을 통해 각 회사의 브랜드 아이덴터티 전략이 효과적으로 적용되었는지 검증하였다. 결과적으로 세 개의 사이트 중 한 개의 사이트가 브랜드 아이덴티티 의도와 다른 브랜드 이미지가 설정되어있음을 발견하였으며 이를 보완하기 위한 전략을 제언하였다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.577-585
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• 2007

This research aimed for 20 latter man whose body shape of torso alters remarkably to develop nipper pattern of running type considered characteristic of body shape of 20 latter man to keep rather balanced body shape against middle age when body shape changes extremely. 1. running type nipper pattern design. Pattern of running, lining and nipper were designed by flattening surface shell. A basis line of running pattern is completed by applying reduction ratio after 3 times of modification & complement based on surface shell. Nipper pattern is designed with design line set by a plaster cast based on running pattern line. Lining pattern is designed with lining design line set by a plaster cast based on running type outside material and nipper pattern. 2. Functional evaluation of research and commercial nipper. Functional inspection through dress test was applied 5point evaluation method and the result of functional inspection on the sight of a wearer is that research nipper(running reduction ratio 15%, nipper reduction ratio 18%) averaged more 4.8point but commercial nipper averaged less 1.8point in the aspect of 20 items such as wear sensibility, motional function and external appearance aesthetic. Research running type nipper scored high in order of motional function, looks of side, back, front and whole and wear sensibility. Functional inspection in the point of view of an observer is that research nipper(running reduction ratio 15%, nipper reduction ratio 18%) averaged over 4.8point and commercial nipper averaged under 1.9point in 17 items of external appearance beauty. Research running type nipper marked high in order of looks of back, whole, front and side.

• 복식
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• 제10권
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• pp.63-80
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• 1986

The Old Testament cotains mention of the history of creation and clothing in ancient Hebrew. This study dealt with Hebrew dress customs especially aimed at the manners of their hair styles, headgears, footwear and personal ornaments. References are Korean Revised Version, English King James Version and Revised Standard Version. There is little mention of hair styles and headgears in the Old Testament. Some sort of turban was worn by priests, and soldiers protected themselves with helmets, but most Israelitish men went bareheaded except on special occasions and often wear simple headbands. It was more common for women to use headwear of some type-turbans, scarves, and veils concealing the face. The veil was the distinctive female wearing apparel. All females, with the exception of maidservants and women in a low condition of life, wore a veil. It was the custom for women to wear a veil entirely covering their head in the public. Through most of the Old Testament periods long and thick hair was admired on men and women alike. The Hebrews were proud to have thick and abundant long hair, and they gave much attention to the care of their hair. The caring of hair was deeply related to their rituals. Nazirites never took a razor to their hair during his vow-days, but instead let it grow long, as an offering to God. Men would not cut their beards, but allow them to grow long. The Israelites' standard footwear was a pair of simple leather sandals. This was one of the items of clothing not highly prized. In a colloquial saying of the time, a pair of shoes signified something of small value, and to be barefoot except in times of mourning or on holy place, was a sign either of extreme poverty or humiliation, as in the case of war prisoners. Because precious stones were not mined in the Palestine-Syria region, Hebrews imported them from foreign country. They were consumer-to a large degree limited by their very modest standard of living-but not producers. Hebrews liked the precious stones and were motivated to acquire and wear jewels. Besides their use for adornment and as gifts, the precious or semiprecious stones were regarded by Jews of property. The Hebrews were not innovators in the field of decorative arts. The prohibition of the Law against making any "graven image" precluded the development of painting, sculpture, and other forms of representational art. Jewish men did not indulge in extravagances of dress, and there was little ornamentation among them. Men wore a signet ring on their right hand or sometimes suspended by a cord or chain around the neck. The necklaces, when worn by a male, also bore any symbol of his authority. Bracelets were extremely popular with both men and women, men usually preferring to wear them on their upper arms. The girdle was a very useful part of a man's clothing. It was used as a waist belt, or used to fasten a man's sword to his body, or served as a pouch in which to keep money and other things. Men often carried a cane or staff, which would be ornamented at the top. Among the women there was more apt to be ornamentation than among the men. Hebrew women liked to deck themselves with jewels, and ornamentation of the bride were specially luxurious and numerous. They wore rings on their fingers or On toes, ankle rings, earrings, nosering, necklace, bracelets. Their shapes were of cresent, waterdrops, scarab, insect, animal or plant. Sometimes those were used as amulets. They were made of ceramics, gold, silver, bronze, iron, and various precious stones which were mostly imported from Egypt and Sinai peninsular. Hebrews were given many religious regulations by Moses Law on their hair, headgears, sandals and ornamentation. Their clothing were deeply related with their customs especially with their religions and rituals. Hebrew religion was of monotheism and of revealed religion. Their religious leaders, the prophets who was inspired by God might need such many religious regulations to lead the idol oriented people to God through them.

• 한국콘텐츠학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국콘텐츠학회 2009년도 춘계 종합학술대회 논문집
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• pp.1026-1030
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• 2009

우리나라에도 서구문화가 유입되면서 서구식 결혼식이 보편화되었고 신부의 웨딩드레스와 주얼리 디자인에 관심이 집중되어 왔다. 특히, 웨딩 소품으로 주얼리 시장의 규모가 커지면서 금속디자인은 많은 발전을 해 왔으나 보석 커팅 디자인에 대한 연구는 부족한 현실이다. 21C 소비자들의 기호에 부응하기 위해 웨딩 주얼리로서 보석의 화려함을 극대화 할 수 있는 연마 방법인 faceting 기법을 활용하여 기존의 정형화된 형태가 아닌 팬시형을 시도하고자 한다. 본 연구에서는 웨딩 주얼리의 주요 보석류로 소비자들의 접근이 용이하도록 값비싼 다이아몬드를 대신할 수 있는 대중적이고 저렴한 큐빅 지르코니아 및 천연보석을 보석재로 사용하였고, 다양한 보석 커팅 디자인을 개발하였다. 웨딩주얼리의 보석 세팅기법에 알맞은 보석 커팅 스타일을 제안함으로써 웨딩주얼리의 새로운 디자인과 제작기법의 개발에 이바지할 것이다.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.51-69
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• 2009

본 연구는 기술 가정교과가 학습자의 흥미와 관심에 부합하여 실생활에 활용 가능한 학습자 중심의 실천교과가 되도록 옷차림 영역을 중심으로 활동과제 개선을 위한 기초 자료를 제공하고자 하였다. 이를 위해, 수도권 소재 중학교 2학년에 재학 중인 남학생 154명과 여학생 160명을 대상으로 활동과제에 대한 학습자의 선호도를 설문 조사하였으며, 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 의생활 단원에 대한 선호도는 '좋아한다'고 응답한 학생이 가장 많아 의생활 단원을 선호하는 것으로 나타났다. 선호하는 이유는 '다양한 실습이나 활동과제를 접할 수 있어서'가 가장 높게 나타났으며, 싫어하는 이유는 '암기해야하는 내용이 많아서'가 가장 높게 나타났다. 또한 의생활 단원 옷차림 내용에 대한 선호도는 필요하다고 생각하는 내용과 실생활에 도움이 된다고 생각하는 내용, 흥미를 느끼는 내용에 관계없이 '나에게 어울리는 옷차림, 옷을 바르게 입는 방법'에 대한 선호도가 가장 높게 나타났다. 둘째, 옷차림 영역에 대한 활동과제의 선호도를 분석한 결과 수행 시기는 '수업 후 내용 정리'를 하면서 제시하는 것을 선호하고, 집단의 규모는 '소집단 활동', 문제의 유형은 '잘 구조화된 문제'를, 과제 수행 방법은 '실험 실습을 통해 원리적으로 파악하는 과제'를 선호하는 것으로 나타났다. 셋째, 옷차림 영역에 대한 활동과제의 경험, 선호도, 교과서의 내용을 비교 분석한 결과 경험과 교과서에 제시된 내용은 대부분 일치하였으나, 선호도와는 차이를 보였다. 따라서 가정교과가 학습자 중심의 실천교과가 되기 위해 활동과제의 내용은 학생들의 일상생활에 중심을 두고, 소집단활동의 비율을 높이는 것이 바람직하다. 또한 활동과제는 구조화되지 않은 문제와 같이 다양하고 포괄적인 문제 상황을 제시하는 것이 학생의 창의력, 사고력을 신장시키는데 도움이 될 것이며, 수행 방법을 다양하게 구성할 필요가 있다.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.