• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.159-174
• /
• 2017

It is very important to preserve the form of traditional costumes and to set the prototype for the design and production of various Korean costumes. This study therefore attempts to analyze the Danryeung pattern methods in textbooks in order to propose a prototype of Korean costumes and a system suitable for modern men, focusing on the Danryeung of the Joseon Dynasty. The research method examined the flow of the Danryeung system in the Joseon Dynasty through previous studies and literature, and the portrayal of the appearance of people of the time through portraits and paintings. The purpose of this study is to analyze the measurements and patterns of textbooks' Danryeung based on the analysis of characteristics of the 5th Joseon Dynasty. From that, the study will analyze the differences between textbooks and artifacts and will propose a Danryeung system for the body shape of modern males in their 30s. In this study, it is meaningful to propose the guideline for the design modification of Korean costumes by providing basic data for subsequent productions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.38 no.5
• /
• pp.755-768
• /
• 2014

This study explores the situation of domestic production and import of dyes as well as type of dye supplier and type of dyer in the Joseon Dynasty based on an analysis of relevant documents. The findings are as follows. Many kinds of natural dyes and natural mordant were produced in the Joseon Dynasty. Some were imported from other countries when in short supply or for diplomatic reasons. As the government organization in charge of the dyes supply and demand, the Jeyonggam was cooperated with the Gongin merchants. As private merchants, there existed Hwapijeon merchants and Cheongramgye merchants. Cheongramgye merchants were both the producer and the seller of indigo sediment. There existed two types of dyers, such as government-operated dyers and private dyers. The Yeomjang (master dyers) and Yeommo (female dyers) were subjugated to government departments in the early part of Joseon Dynasty, but gradually allowed to pursue self-profit. The Yeomga was the private dye house that existed in the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. Ladies and female servants were also allowed to dye for family use or to help in livelihoods. Jeonyeomga was a branch specialized in indigo dyeing. Lastly, the Yoemgye were the merchants of dyed paper and textiles as well as dyers.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
• /
• v.27 no.2
• /
• pp.85-98
• /
• 2014

The medical bureaucrats was awarded by Wonjong (原從) meritorious retainer were 376 peoples in the Joseon Dynasty. It was not done research on this is accurate so far. Why did they get Wonjong (原從) meritorious retainer? I have found a general rule of the investiture through review of the nokhundogamuigwe (錄勳都監儀軌). The Sillok(實錄) and other materials were used as an adjunct in the investigation. Through the analysis of this medical bureaucrats, This study aims to investigate the change in the social status of the Joseon Dynasty's medical officials. The conclusion of this paper is as follows. First, the social status of medical bureaucrat was similar to that of yangban (兩班) in early days of Joseon Dynasty compared with mid or late days of Joseon Dynasty. Second, bastard households are concentrated in the second half of the 16th century to the early 17th century to advance to the medical officials. Third, acupuncture doctors increased social status by the mid-Joseon Dynasty. Fourth, statutes about Wonjong (原從) meritorious retainer was raising the social status of medical bureaucrat compared to other technical officials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.5
• /
• pp.147-163
• /
• 2011

King Jeong-jo (正祖) was the 22nd king of Joseon dynasty (朝鮮王朝), who led the golden age of Korean culture during his ruling. This study is on the burial dressing of King Jeong-jo based on the publications during his ruling; such as "Gukjo Sangrye Bopyeon (國朝喪禮補編)", "Chungwan Tonggo (春官通考)", Jeong-jo "Gukjang Dogam Euigwe (國葬都監儀軌)", "Jeongjo Binjeon Honjeon Dogam Euigwe (正祖殯殿魂殿都監儀軌)" and "Jeong-jo Sillok (正祖實錄)", "Gukjo Sangrye Bopyeon (國朝喪禮補編)" was published in 1758. It compiled the funeral protocols of royal court, complementing the shortcomings of protocol documents published till then. "Chungwan Tonggo" was published in 1788, compiling all the protocols and customs practiced during Joseon dynasty in an organized manner. "Jeong-jo Gukjang Dogam Euigwe" and "Jeongjo Binjeon Honjeon Dogam Euigwe", record the burial dressing and the state funeral of King Jeong-jo in detail based on the contents of above protocol publications. In addition, the 'Daeryeom Euidae ', 'Soryeom Euidae', 'Seup Euidae' and 'Mokyok Euidae' that had been actually practiced were studied in detail based on the records in June/July, 1800 in Book 54 'Jeong-jo' of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty. The timing of King Jeong-jo's state funeral was when the most elaborated and complete protocol books of Joseon dynasty had been published. Therefore, it was possible to explore the solemn and magnificent funeral culture and King's burial dressing in late Joseon dynasty by way of King Jeong-jo's burial dressing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2013

This study examined the prevalence of the traditional fruit preserve, gwapyeon, recorded in 10 royal palace studies and 10 old literature reports on the Joseon dynasty (1392-1909). A total of 62 papers presented the Gwapyeon kind in the documents of the Joseon dynasty. The protocols of the court of the Joseon Dynasty and old literature discussed the Gwapyeon as follows: Nokmalbyeong (ohmijapyeon) 22.5%; aengdupyeon (櫻桃片) 14.5%; salgupyeon (杏) and bokbunjapyeon (覆盆子) at 11.3% each; beojjipyeon and mogwapyeon (木瓜) at 8.1% each; sansapyeon (山査) and chijapyeon at 6.5% each; duchungpyeon (杜沖) 4.8%; and deuljjukpyeon, saenggangpyeon (薑), daechupyeon (棗) and yujapyeon (柚子) at 1.6% each. From "Junghae-Jungraeeuigwe (丁亥整禮儀軌)" (1827) to "Junghae-Jinchaneuigwe (丁亥進饌儀軌)" (1887) called nokmalbyeong (菉末餠). "Sinchuk-Jinchaneuigwe (辛丑進饌儀軌)" (May 1901) renamed the ohmijabyeong (五味子餠). "Sinchuk-Jinyeoneuigwe (辛丑進宴儀軌)" (July 1901), the assorted-sulsilgwa (各色熟實果 ) were included in the ohmijabyeong. "Imin-Jinchaneuigwe (壬寅進饌儀軌)" (April 1902), The ohmijabyeong (五味子餠) and assorted-sulsilgwa (各色熟實果) was used and a mixture of "Imin-Jinyeoneuigwe (壬寅進宴儀軌)" (November 1902) included the assorted-sulsilgwa (各色熟實果).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.6
• /
• pp.918-927
• /
• 2012

This study identified the aesthetic characteristics of the face description in late Joseon Dynasty beauty paintings. A total of 24 beauty paintings were selected as representative of the late Joseon Dynasty genre of painting works. The paintings were analyzed by the shape, color, and physiognomy of beauty trends from the components of women's faces expressed in the works of artists. The results of this study showed that the shape of the face components expressed a round, curved and thin line. Colors were expressed through Obang-sack (a traditional Korean color). Also the physiognomy of the late Joseon Dynasty's women was soft, wise, economical and brilliant. A round-forehead meant that economical and virtuous housekeeper, thin crescent shaped eyebrows denoted women of wisdom and excellent sensitivity. Single long thin eyelids and implied a women of longevity. A round curved nose were eager tobe a wise mother and a good wife. Small concave lips were desired eagerly by gentle and intelligent women. A curve face implied a subjective women of insight and good memory. In conclusion, the late Joseon Dynasty beauty paintings expressed a traditional Korean beauty face and a modern baby face. The data are useful for the aesthetic standards of modern through meaning of Korean traditional beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.1
• /
• pp.76-90
• /
• 2010

Gwa-du(裹肚), name of a garment, appears often from documentary records of Joseon Dynasty. It is assumed as one of the upper garments for men, and according to the record, it was worn as a set with Dan-ryung(團領), Dap-ho(搭胡), Chul-rik(帖裏), Han-sam(汗衫), pants and socks. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in the 17th century, it changes to a shape of wrapping clothes with straps at four corners, and used to cover the stomach of a corpse like sash. From 16th-17th century, before the Japanese Invasion of Korea, the excavated costume shows a clothing which takes a role of Jegori, longer than Han-sam(汗衫) and shorter than Po(袍). In this study, this clothing is called Gwa-du(裹肚). This study examined the usage and shape of Kwa-du from some documentary records- "朝鮮王朝實錄-The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", "禮書- Book of Manners", "宮中件記- Googjoonghalkee, recording court goods and commodities lists" and more with actual clothing. Kwa-du is presumed to have changed to men's Jegori So-chang-ui(小氅衣) after 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
• /
• v.28 no.2
• /
• pp.115-124
• /
• 2013

This article examines the types and cooking methods of Suksilkwa as recorded in 14 royal palace studies and 10 old literature texts of the Joseon dynasty (1392-1909). The types of Suksilkwa during the Joseon dynasty were Joran (棗卵), Yulran (栗卵), and Gangran (薑卵). The frequency of the Suksilkwa types during the Joseon dynasty in order were: Gangran (35.4%), Joran (32.3%), and Yulran (32.3%). Prior to 185 years ago, "Junghae-Jungraeeuigwe (丁亥整禮儀軌)" (1827), Joran (棗卵), Yulran (栗卵), and Gangran (薑卵) were called Samsaegran (三色卵). Nearly 144 years ago, "Mujin-Jinchaneuigwe (戊辰進饌儀軌)" (1868) recalled sulsilgwa (熟實果). "Imjin-Jinchaneuigwe (壬辰進饌儀軌)" (1892) first recalled assorted-sulsilgwa (各色熟實果), in which sansabyeong were added in the sulsilgwa. "Sinchuk-Jinyeoneuigwe (辛丑進宴儀軌)" (July 1901), "Imin-Jinchaneuigwe (壬寅進饌儀軌)" (April 1902), "Imin-Jinyeoneuigwe (壬寅進宴儀軌)" (November 1902) described assorted-sulsilgwa (各色熟實果) in which ohmijabyeong were added to the sulsilgwa. Further study will be conducted on recipes and ingredients recorded in these Euigwe and old books in order to develop a standardized recipe to make Suksilkwa appealing to a global palate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
• /
• v.29 no.2
• /
• pp.129-139
• /
• 2014

This article examines the different types of Mandoo as recorded in 15 royal palace studies from the Joseon dynasty (1392-1909). The types of Mandoo during the Joseon dynasty were Byeongsi (餠匙), Mandoo (饅頭), EMandoo (魚饅頭), Rukmandoo (肉饅頭), Yangmandoo (月羊饅頭), Saengchimandoo (生雉饅頭), Golmandoo (骨饅頭), Dongkwamandoo (冬果饅頭), Chaemandoo (菜饅頭), Chimchaemandoo (沈菜饅頭), and Saenghapmandoo (生蛤饅頭). The frequencies of the different Mandoo types during the Joseon dynasty were in the following order: Mandoo (29.8%), Emandoo (19.1%), Rukmandoo (14.9%), Byeongsi (12.8%), Yangmandoo (6.4%), Saengchimandoo (4.3%), Golmandoo (4.3%), Dongkwamandoo (2.1%), Chaemandoo (2.1%), Chimchaemandoo (2.1%), and Saenghapmandoo (2.1%). "Muja-Jinjakeuigwe (戊子進爵儀軌)" (1828년) gijumi (起酒米) is not used, suggesting that Koreans could see perched Mandoo. "Musin-Jinchaneuigwe (戊申進饌儀軌)" (1848) configurations of materials Mandoo, SoongChimchae (沈菜), Dupo (豆泡), Nokdujangum (綠豆長音). Now, we enjoy mandoo's ingredients based documents materials. Further studies will be conducted on recipes and ingredients recorded in Euigwe in order to develop a standardized recipe for Mandoo.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
• /
• v.1 no.3
• /
• pp.1-21
• /
• 2015

This study examined the prevalence of the assorted vegetables with beef on skewers called Hwayangjeok recorded in 16 Joseon dynasty (1392-1909) royal palace studies. The ingredients used in Hwayangjeok during the Joseon dynasty were categorized into 35.2% Hwangjeok(黃炙) & Jabjeok(雜炙), 16.7% Hwangjeokhwayangjeok(黃炙花陽炙), each 11.1% Saengboghwayangjeok(生鰒花陽炙) & Lagjehwayangjeok(絡蹄花陽炙), 9.3% Eohwayangjeok(魚花陽炙), 5.6% Donggwahwayangjeok(冬苽花陽炙), each 3.7% Cheonyeobhwayangjeok((千葉花陽炙) & Yanghwayangjeok1, each 1.8% Gyelan-eoeumjeok (鷄卵於音炙) & Ablanhwayangjeok(鴨卵花陽炙). Through this study, through new lighting and menu development for Hwayangjeok used as a basis for hope to contribute to the globalization of Korean food.