• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.126-139
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• 2009

The following study from the perspective that the identity of a brand is determined by the creative work of the designer, will review the design identity of fashion house, which have maintained a basic concept of couture house until recently. For this purpose, first, the concepts of fashion house and identity could be examined, and then the design identity of both the past couture designer and the present house designer could be comparatively analyzed. This study focused on John Galliano of Dior, and was carried out under the method of document study and case study. Based on this, the analytic results of the design identity of fashion houses are as follows. The design identity of fashion house, which has its origins in the past couture house, appears from the house characteristics, design characteristics and the design image. The original design identity of Dior House seems to be feminism and elegant extravagance, which naturally models the body line of women into diverse lines. The new design identity of Dior House by Galliano, while reflecting wit and fantasy, at the same time is expressed as sexy and romantic elegance which attempts to express the beauty of modern women. The pursue of chic elegance, which is the characteristic of early Dior design, have changed into avant garde and unique designs with tendencies of multi-culturalism due to the most recent house designers. Finally, Dior house design has successfully maintained the master of handcrafted quality based on craftsmanship, the history from the house archive, and the modern trends appropriately added by the creativity of Galliano.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.170-183
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of different images of movie costume centering on the actresses. The perfect examples are the characters from the movie "The Devil Wears Prada", in which the film is about the fashion leaders of the world. This study consists of visual data as well as images including some scenes from the movie. The sources were collected from relative media, articles in journals, internet sites relating to the movies and photos and we have analyzed differentiated each of the character's wardrobes and its characteristics appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. First, the characteristic image of Andy, the main character (Anne Hathaway) in the movie changed dramatically. Andy'swardrobe is focused on the character's makeover in the movie as the character changes from a slob dresser to an assistant of the editor-in-chief of the number one fashion magazine in the world. Each scene definitely shows different styles of the latest premier designers' clothes and accessories. On the other hand, Miranda Priestly appears as the fashion leader and icon throughout the whole movie. Her career look in each scene was very chic and sophisticated in the office while her party dresses were sexy and glamorous in the movie where she was at many of the promotion parties and events. The second analysis of characteristic images of movie costumes is comparing the styles of Andy, Miranda and Emily(the other assistant of Miranda). Andy's wardrobe was divided Into two situations-before working for the magazine and while working for Miranda. As Andy's wardrobe began to upscale, the clothing images of Emily and Miranda became less fashionable. As a result of this study, the movie costumes played a vital role in expressing the changes and differentiating each character's images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.924-934
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• 2003

The aim of the present study was to measure intra-individual consistency in clothing style evaluation and to examine its relation to the ratings. For this study, a pilot test was conducted to 50 clothing majored university students to explore the stimulus of‘cute’,‘casual’,‘sexy’,‘elegant’,‘intelligent’,‘formal’,‘romantic’,‘individual’,‘refined’for the 9 each image styles from the 32 spring wears in fashion magazine$\boxDr$FARBE$\boxUl$(March, 2000). On the basis of the preliminary survey, the question items explored the 15 pairs of bipolar adjectives as seven-point Likert type. The main survey was preceded 94 female and 111 men of university students from March 13 to 24 in 2000, twice for 7-days interval. As a result of analyzing of correlation coefficients between the two ratings for each subjects, intra-individual consistency in the evaluation, ranged from -.11 to .87 and mean coefficient was .64 of female and .20 to .76 and mean coefficient was .57 of male. Female had higher intra-individual consistency in the evaluation than male. Based on the coefficients, the subjects were classified into three groups: high, medium, and low intra-individual consistency. Analysis of variance of mean ratings by the three groups revealed that significant difference existed in 42% of female and 25% of male in 135 combinations of 9 clothing and 15 semantic differential scales. There was an apparent tendency that subjects of female with high intra-individual consistency were mostly definitely to evaluate clothing, whereas the ones with low were least. But male shows opposit trend compare to each groups of female. The result of this study, it was found that female rated higher intra-individual consistency and definition in the two times evaluations than male and among the semantic differential scales'consistency differ depending on style and gender. It is believed that the result of this study is helpful clothing image evaluation, and clothing image selection tendency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1003-1013
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• 2009

This study offers data that can be used to direct the styles of black dresses by looking into the characteristics of coordination in black fashion, which is continuously appearing at modem. fashion collections with a unique aesthetic value and image. This study examined the characteristic of fashion coordination of black color: First, to look at the fashion image of black color, second, to look at the characteristic of black color coordination appearing in black fashion, and third, to look at the method of coordination appearing in black color. This study collected and selected 560 black pictures that showed the fashion collections from 2005 S/S until 2007 F/W. As for data analysis, the researcher made a content analysis by classifying the pictures by item, material, accessory, and a coordination method. The research results are as follows: First, the fashion image of black color was expressed as sexy feminine, modern chic, modern future, genderless, and avant-garde images. Second, the fashion coordination of black color has the characteristics of sexiness and dignity by the use of body exposure, concealment, and a subdued line that expresses a modern, minimal atmosphere. The mix & match of materials expressed the monotony of one color as refined beauty and the use of accessories appeared to bring the image into relief. Third, as for the coordination method, pants on skirts, pants on dresses, piece coordination of code matching, plus- one coordination through vivid colors and accessories, and cross-over coordination relying on shape, material, and sense were prominent.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.542-555
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• 2011

Internet shopping malls have rapidly developed within the economic recession due to changed lifestyle according to digitalization. Furthermore, customers in the 20~30s, the main consumer base of internet shopping malls in Korea, have begun to enjoy the new cultural trend of party culture, thus creating a new fashion market combining party and fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze design characteristics of internet party-wear shopping malls to provide guidelines and to present basic data for design development of party-wear in internet shopping malls. Research method was used by combining literary research with empirical research of analyzing design by capturing pictures of internet party-wear shopping malls. The following conclusion was drawn from research results. First, Party-wear consumption of internet shopping malls is increasing along with the increased sales of clothing fashion products of internet shopping malls. Second, design analysis results regarding 11 internet shopping malls selling party-wear was presented that consumer emotion and trend were combined according to distinct characteristics to display romantic style, romantic style mixed with modern or casual characteristics, sexy, and etc. Third, dress was presented as the most common item with 52.3% in item analysis executed on 588 pictures captured in 11 shopping malls. Ribbon was shown as the most common detail and trimming item, with 28.7%, and corsage and frills were each presented as 13%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.1 no.1 s.1
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• pp.65-78
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• 2003

This research is to provide practical help in learning hair and makeup illustration skills by presenting techniques for hair and makeup drawing; to serve efficient illustration education; and to enhance the status of beauty and contribute to artistic development. Hair style and makeup techniques include graphical one, pattern-centered one, one using pattern paper, simplifying one and mood one expressing image. Of them, this research made the illustrations to use cosmetics, color pencils and pastel based on the graphical technique. for each design of the illustrations, ethnic, sexy, natural, romantic and gorgeous images, which were considered to be appropriate to the graphical technique, were chosen by the researcher out of hair and makeup styles that appeared in the fashion magazines including Vogue, Gap, Mode et Mode from 2000 through 2001. In particular, they were chosen with focusing on basic styles. The summaries below were found with the experience of making illustrations. Various techniques and skills are required to express the ideas of hair and makeup styles. Of them, the graphical technique is very useful as the primary step to learn various techniques and improve drawing skills. First, the graphical technique may enable not only expressing what is desired to draw as is, but also accurately representing hair and makeup designs so as to convey objective expression. In this regard, it is a proper way to achieve its inherent purpose as conveyance of messages. Second, more accurate styling of hair and makeup is available through graphical expression, which helps understand related practical techniques. In addition, makeup illustration, which is expressed through direct makeup products and instruments, may serve skill improvement since such direct use provides the feeling of real makeup. Third, the graphical technique as a basic drawing skill may unrestrictedly show the artist's expression ability. Fourth, although artistic merits implying individuality and creativity should be shared through illustrations that express the artist's ideas or emotions, the graphical technique is the easiest method to beginners who just started learning of illustration, in that it enables expression without highly advanced skills.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.29-47
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• 1995

Today, we live in the fastly changing society, rapidly developing scientific civilization and repeatly confusing political culture. Therefore, man persuits the emotional rest in "eros" and sympathizes with eroticism. Such an eroticism represents too much in art and costume all over the world. the purpose of this study is to classify the ex-pressive style of eroticism which is the feature of the costume in the first year of 1990's and to analyze its expression meaning. This study will be a basic data of new design development and help predict the costume in the latter half of the yeat. The method of this study was performed by using the literature related to the eroticism and the study of preceeding researchers. To analyze the costume style the its implied meaning being used to express the eroticism of 1990's, the magazines(Elle, Vogue, WWD, Collections etc) and the literatures related to fashion were used. The styles and meaning of eroticism expressed eroticism by using the minimal design which exposes wholly or partly by using a transparent vinyl and a see-through clothing. The sexy style arose from the expression of social rebellion and the exposure of suppressive sex as a psychological repulsion against the older generation. 2) Deshabille style : This style is the conver-sion to the outer garment of an underwear. The excessive exposure which just concerns the inti-mate parts of the body by using the thin cloth or lace for an underwear. This style can be recognized as the beauty destruction and ugly 3) Glamour style : The style is made up of the high-grade cloth such as silk and velvet and expresses the bodily beauty. This style falls into a rebellious culture and comes from the inten-tional expression to escape the modern life which is straight and hard. 4) metallic style : This style uses variously the new material such as vinyl-coating, enamel and represents the eroticism through the original expressions.pressions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.134-146
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• 2006

Modern society is a multi-cultural consumer society, and there are multiple trends to cater to the tastes of diverse consumers with different sociocultural background. To grasp fashion trends in fast-changing society, how consumer life is changing and what sort of trend is prevailing should be understood above all. A major fashion trend keeps on changing in every season, and that is an extensive and compound measure of what affects the lives and values of cultural receivers who take the lead in it. The purpose of this study was to delve into what sorts of trends were presented in the 21st century's different cultures, how those cultures were reflected in fashion trends, and how design elements predicted by fashion trends could serve as the sources of design that could create a new fashion. The findings of the study were as follows: First of all, the theories of popular culture and trends were reviewed to describe how general receivers found meaning and delight in the products of cultural industry in their own way and how the products were converted into diverse cultural media. Secondly, consumer styles were discussed by classifying consumers into six groups, twixter, duppie, Ubi-Nomad, NONOS, LOHAS and chav, who were generated by changing cultural codes. Thirdly, sociocultural trends and consumer changes brought a lot of diverse changes to fashion trends. The visual materials about the 2005 S/S, F/W Collection were examined to track how changing trends affected fashion style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.12-31
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• 2017

Korean commercial-organized girl groups were remarkable in the late 1990's. However, by the late 2000's, girl groups had an even more profound effect on Korean popular music compare to past influences. This study aimed to analyze the social-cultural meaning of the changing appearance of girl group between the first and second-generations. For this purpose, this study analyzed media image and text, based on a social-cultural context, about 13 girl groups. The results are as follows. First, while the first -generation girl group tended to maintain girlish/sexy images trying to the male desire, the second -generation girl group strategically showed various sexual identities such as femininity, masculinity, masculinity and androgyny along with contextual sexual images. The reason why girl groups increased the number of strategic images featuring various sexual identities was in order to appeal to a wide, diverse audience. Second, the second generation girl groups had - slim bodies with great athleticism, basically due to trainee system. Because of this, their semiotic body images have been commercially used to promote the consumption. Third, the second generation girl groups - were the bigger stars than first generation girl groups - because the members worked in many different fields. Therefore, the group members' images were successful consumed directly and then reproduced symbolically. Fourth, each member of the second -generation girl groups characterized by appearing in diverse, yet familiar images, through various media sources. Although the intention of this was to have recognition and popularity, it became difficult for them to change their image once one particular image was deemed popular.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.