• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.34 no.6
• /
• pp.435-440
• /
• 2010

A numerical model, which can compute deformation of rubble mound structures composed with various size materials, was proposed. In the numerical model, wave field into the mound structures was computed by CADMAS-SURF and the deformations of mound structures were computed by DEM. Interaction between wave field and sectional deformation of structure was considered and to present the variation of behaviors caused by various properties of materials, computation was carried out with random coefficients by Monte Carlo simulation method for contact stiffness and friction angle. The experiments were carried out with rubbles and glass balls with radius of 2.9cm, 2.6cm and 1.5cm. And the deformation characteristics of rubble mounds composed with various size materials were clarified. Furthermore the validity and the applicability of the model were discussed by comparing with the experimental results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.23 no.2
• /
• pp.182-191
• /
• 2011

In the present study, the dynamically coupled POM-WAM of Chun et al.(2009) was applied to the numerical simulation of undertow, one of the nearshore currents. To improve the accuracy of the numerical model results in surf zone, the transport equation of the surface roller was solved, and its effects were incorporated into the present numerical model. The numerical model has been applied to two hydraulic experiments of Okayasu and Katayama(1992) and Cox and Kobayashi(1997). The numerical results were compared with the hydraulic experimental results to give a good concurrence. It is concluded that the present numerical model can be applied to the shallow water region including surf zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.39-44
• /
• 2009

To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2004.05b
• /
• pp.1429-1433
• /
• 2004

본 연구에서는 쇄파대에서 정현파의 쇄파에 대해 수리모형실험과 수치모형실험을 수행하였다. 수치해석 모형에서는 Reynolds 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 난류해석을 위해 $k-\varepsilon$모델을 적용하였으며, 자유수면변위를 추적하기 위해 VOF기법을 사용하져다. 사면 및 평탄지형상에서 발생하는 쇄파양상을 서로 다르게 설정하기 위해 수심과 입사파의 주기와 파고를 변화시킨다. 발생된 정현파의 파형은 해석해와 잘 일치하였으며, 입사파와 파고계가 설치된 위치에서 측정된 파고비 $H/H_0$는 관측값과 비교해 본 길과 놀은 정확도를 나타내었다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.81-96
• /
• 2007

Nonlinear shoaling characteristics over surf zone are numerically investigated based on spatially averaged NavierStokes equation. We also test the validity of gradient model for turbulent stresses due to wave breaking using the data acquainted during SUPERTANK LABORATORY DATA COLLECTION PROJECT(Krauss et al., 1992). It turns out that the characteristics length scale of breaking induced current is not negligible, which firmly stands against ever popular gradient model, ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ model, but favors Large Eddy Simulation with finer grid. Based on these observations, we model the residual stress of spatially averaged NavierStokes equation after Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky(Meneveau et al., 1996). We numerically integrate newly proposed wave equations using SPH with Gaussian kernel function. Severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particle, queuing splash after landing of water particle on the free surface and wave finger due to structured vortex on rear side of wave crest(Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002) are successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation of wave propagation over uniform slope beach, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.35 no.1
• /
• pp.108-117
• /
• 2011

Old train carriages have been used to create artificial reefs (AR) as part of programs to enhance ocean fisheries and recreational resources. This study conducted hydraulic modeling experiments to estimate the structural stability of a train carriage AR. By applying fixed- and movable-bed conditions and Froude similitude, theoretical and hydraulic experiments revealed major design forces(e.g., water waves and currents). The results of this study showed that some dimensionless design parameters (e.g., surf similarity parameters, water particle velocity, scouring, and deposition) also affect the stability of an AR under various wave and current field conditions. In the fixed-bed condition, movement of the AR occurred when dimensionless water particle velocity based on the surf similarity parameter was larger than about 0.32. In the moveable-bed condition, the settlement depth (field values) of the AR ranged from 6 to 30 cm. The results indicated that characteristics of the sediment/bed condition and the direction of external forces acting on an AR should be considered when selecting AR sites.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.30 no.6
• /
• pp.498-504
• /
• 2016

In this study, to predict the effect of beach nourishment at Haeundae Beach, the waves and wave-induced currents were compared before and after beach nourishment using the XBEACH model. Representative wave conditions were determined for the data observed during 2014 (KHOA). Then, the Hs,max and Hs,1/10 values, and their prevalent directions, were used in the numerical modeling input data. A variable grid system was used for the $5km{\times}2.5km$ model areas, and irregular waves based on the JONSWAP spectrum were given as incident wave conditions. In the summer season, eastward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. Before the beach nourishment, the maximum speed around the surf zone was 1.2-1.5 m/s in the central zone of the beach, whereas the maximum speed increased to 1.4-1.6 m/s at the same areas when the currents toward Mipo Harbor were blocked as an effect of the groins after the beach nourishment. In the winter season, westward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. After the beach nourishment, the maximum current speed increased slightly around the surf zone in the central area of the beach, and the littoral current speed decreased at the submerged breakwaters located at Dongbaek Island. As a result, after the beach nourishment, the maximum wave-induced currents increased about 10% in the surf zone of the central area of the beach.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.619-633
• /
• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.37 no.6
• /
• pp.461-466
• /
• 2004

This study presents a combined experimental and numerical effort to investigate wave breaking of sinusoidal waves in a surf zone. Numerical predictions are verified by comparing to laboratory measurements. The model solves the Reynolds equations and$textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ models for the turbulence analysis. To track the free surface displacement, the volume of fluid method is employed. As the height of incident wave increases, the wave breaking occurs at a closer point of the slope in the numerical model and laboratory experiments with the same depth and period. When a wave breaking occurs, the ratio of wave height becomes larger, with the same wave height and depth, as the period increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.484-491
• /
• 2007

Numerical experiments using a numerical wave tank have been performed to verier the nonlinear interaction between monochromatic waves and a submerged horizontal plate. As a model for numerical wave tank, we used a higher-order Boundary Element Method(BEM) based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory and CADMAS-SURF for solving Navier Stokes equations and exact free surface conditions. Both nonlinear models are able to predict the higher harmonic generation in the shallow water region over a submerged horizontal plate. CADMAS-SURF, which involves the viscous effect, can evaluate the higher harmonic generation by flow separation and vortices at the each ends of plate. The comparison of reflection and transmission coefficients with experimental results(Patarapanich and Cheong, 1989) at different lengths and submergence depths of a horizontal plate are presented with a good agreement. It is found that the transfer of energy from the incident fundamental waves to higher harmonics becomes larger as the submergence depth ratio decreases and the length ratio increases.