• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.154-167
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop fashion designs using masks on the basis of plasticity of masks. This study was conducted both theoretically and empirically. In a theoretical study, mask-related research and fashion-related literature were examined. In an empirical study, masks used in collections since the 1990's were analyzed through fashion magazines and fashion web sites. Based on such theoretical researches, masks used in modern fashion collections were divided into accessories and clothing to analyze and three fashion designs were developed on the basis of results described above. This study intended to express a romantic look with primitive mood that added formative elements of a mask to the design concept of "Romantic-Primitive". First, forms of masks were simplified and deconstructed and then some methods such as textile printing, leather handicraft, or applique were expressed.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.46-61
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• 2007

The analysis of exotic style in domestic fashion brand items aims to offer the ideas necessary for the style and item developments and to analyze exotic images and styles accepted in domestic fashion market. Therefore this study analyzed the domestic fashion brand items and categorized the main exotic factors and styles so that would catch on to its characters and appearance frequency. As for the research method of this study, the frequency and content multi-dimensional analysis were used in the investigation of the exotic images appearing in the domestic fashion brands. The styles of exotic image in domestic fashion brand items are 'natural' style, 'primitive' style, 'ethnic' style, and 'maximalism' style. Also, the main exotic factors in each exotic style were composed of a few exotic images such as 'natural', 'primitive', 'ethnic', 'romantic', 'elegance', 'splendid', 'seductive', 'retro', 'traditional', 'classical', 'bohemian', 'vintage', 'kidult', 'artistic', 'extreme compromise', and 'modern'.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.911-922
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• 2007

본 연구에서는 패션에 나타난 아프리카 이미지에 대한 정확한 시각과 현대 패션의 이해를 목적으로 서양사에서 바라보는 아프리카 이미지와 예술, 아프리카복식의 일반적 특징, 아프리카 이미지의 패션 등장배경 및 시대적 흐름을 토대로 하여 2005 S/S컬렉션에 나타난 디자이너와 디자인작품을 요소별로 분석하여 아프리카 이미지를 도출하였다. 2005년 S/S세계 4대 컬렉션에서 선정된 10개의 디자이너와 브랜드 작품에 나타난 아프리카 이미지는 'Wild Erotic', 'Abstract Primitive', 'Natural Elegant', 'Sporty Romantic'의 4가지 특성으로 나타났으며, 이를 디자인, 디자이너, 패션트렌드 측면에서 아프리카 이미지에 대한 현대 패션의 시각을 살펴보면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 현대 패션에서 아프리카 패션은 주술적, 종교적 의미보다는 장식적인 디테일을 강조하는 경향으로 나타났다. 즉, 토속적인 감각과 도시적 인 감각을 조화시켜 주술적 의미에서 장식적 의미로 이들을 차용하였다. 둘째, 패션디자이너는 아프리카의 원시성, 순수성의 힘을 현대인의 회귀심리 및 자연의 순수성에 대한 동경과 결합시켜 아프리카 이미지를 패션문화의 한 코드로 인식시키고 현대 여성의 도시적 야성미를 독특한 스타일로 연출하였다. 셋째, 아프리카 이미지는 원시생활속의 미의식에서 찾을 수 있는 창작 디자인으로서의 영감은 물론 이국취향의 창의적인 이미지로 연출되어 패션트렌드의 강한 키워드로 자리매김하며 21세기 초두의 트렌드를 주도하였다.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.634-646
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• 2007

The aim of his study is to understand the developed aspect and proportions of the exotic images. Thus, this analyzed the exotic images in domestic fashion brand items as an relevance with fashion trend information. The exotic images are in the order of 'ethnic', 'retro', artistic', 'elegance', 'primitive', 'seductive', 'folklore', 'extreme hybrid', 'romantic', 'natural', 'splendid', 'bohemian', 'classical', 'kidult', 'modern', 'traditional', 'vintage' expressed in domestic fashion goods by the categories of its key-words expressed fashion trend information, and suitable for the fashion trend in 21C and fashionable for goods in the domestic fashion market by expressing the racial costume images and retro look, the maximized women's elegance, the difference images with an humor and unfamiliarity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.642-652
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of a sexual image and verify the method of its design expression through case studies of the sexual image evening dress shown in an Haute Couture Collection over the last 10 years (2005~2014). The results of analysis are as follows: First, "expression by the seeing through of the natural body" expressed a natural sexual image that combined fashion of the previous times with the beauty of the natural body by using a see-through material and classic or ethnic image. Second, "expression of a sexual-image look that emphasizes romantic detail" illustrated a romantic sexual image that emphasizes feminine sensitivity by mixing various ornamental elements such as see-through material and symbolism of underwear image. Third, "creation of a nude look using skin color" expressed sexual image of an evening dress by inducing erotic sexual association through a combination of opaque material of skin color and design shape that is intended for body exposure. Fourth, "combination of sexual symbol and heterogeneous elements" expressed a decadent, avant-garde and futuristic sexual images by using women's underwear and a sexual symbol as design motif and mixed with mismatching elements. Fifth, "use of a fantastic black image" expressed an exclusive and refined sexual image and a decadent and primitive sexual image by using a fantastic image of black color. The results of this study are expected to be used for the design process of the evening-dress industry that aims for quality improvement.

• 복식
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• 제59권4호
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• pp.14-25
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• 2009

This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.13-29
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze eroticism shown in the fashion of Lady Gaga's music video. This study methods taken theoretical consideration and then was classified eroticism based on previous studies and was analyzed costumes from Lady Gaga's music video. The results of this study were as follows: Avant-garde style exaggerates shoulders, hips, a hat or uses metal and glossy material, tape, leather and it was expressed into emphasizing or baldly exposing breast. Primitive style was expressed in ethnic style and animal patterns, lingerie look with drastic, bald exposing fashion. Romantic style was expressed using rococo style costume, frill, pleats, decoration and was produces eroticism with see-through look or costume fitting to the body. Sportive style expresses a healthier and erotic image using tight costume in yellow, blue and black while exposing belly and legs. Janus-faced style was expressed by dressing up like a man or using the method of attachment and exposure in clergy's costume. Humorous style was expressed by emphasizing parts of body or costume itself. As examined in the above, Lady Gaga was expressed various eroticism images in her music video and is builds her own sexually appealing.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.291-306
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• 1992

From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.131-146
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• 2000

The starting point of this study was that the Orientalism reflected in the modern clothing is realized the different view by Western and Eastern. Based on this regard, this study semiotically analyse that clothing is creating the cultural values and signification and that the western designers are reproducing an ideology as orientalism being the western-oriented thought when expressing the Asian image in the modern clothing. The theoretical sides are based on the semiotic analyses of F. Saussure, C. Peirce, and R. Barthes. By the result observed through this study, the Orientalism reflected in the modern clothing designed by Western designers are discriminative image, mystic image, past-oriented image, natural image, and complex-eclectic image. The discriminative image is reproduced as a savage and uncivilized image. In addition, it regarded as a decorative and superficial image is expressed as if it is an uncharacterized and underdeveloped image in the modern clothing. The mystic image is reproduced as a romantic image to stimulate Westerners'curiosity. That is, Asian image is regarded as a dream and magical image rather than a scientific and rational image. The past-oriented image is expressed through restricting Asian positive image in Asian historical glory. The natural image differs from Western image based on science in the modern clothing. The modern clothing regards the natural image as a primitive and instinctive image. The complex-eclectic image is the pastish pattern through selecting and distributing heterogeneous materials in the modern clothing. This study critically analyzes the western-oriented thought of orientalism in the modern clothing. The results of the study imply that it is critical that we provide a new contact point for the East and the West in the context of our Asian values and traditions.