• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.379-393
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• 2023

In this study, a survey focusing on the status of clothing interest, inconveniences resulting from clothing, preferred design items, etc. was conducted on 364 elderly women to suggest aesthetically and functionally appropriate indoor wear design for at home elderly women aged 60 years or older. The survey results showed that in general, the respondents' interest in clothing was high, and more respondents in their 70s or older had difficulty in the action of opening and closing. With respect to considerations when purchasing clothes, color was considered more important than design as respondent's age increased, and size was regarded as the most important factor especially among those in their 80s. The preferred top styles were T-shirts and blouses among those in their 60s and 70s, and T-shirts and shirts among those in their 80s. The preferred sleeve lengths were "below the elbow" and "above the wrist" in all age groups. The preferred sleeve hem type was "tightening" in all age groups. The most preferred bottom styles were "straight-leg pants" and "elastic waistband." This study suggests the design items of indoor wear, including top, bottom, and overgarment for warmth, appropriate for elderly women at home based on the survey results. The study results are expected to serve as basic data necessary for the revitalization of the clothing industry for elderly women.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.277-295
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• 2023

The Body Appreciation Scale-2 (BAS-2) measures the extent to which individuals feel, accept, and respond to their own bodies in a positive manner. Given the research need to explore positive body image and its associations with various sociocultural factors and related consequences among individuals with various cultural backgrounds, several studies have established the psychometric properties and factor structures of the BAS-2 in different languages and samples with different characteristics. The current study investigated the psychometric properties and measurement invariance of a Korean version of the BAS-2 in an older Korean adult population (599 older Korean adults with the average age of 70 years). Data were collected using both online and offline (paper-based) survey questionnaires. The results of exploratory factor analyses and confirmatory factor analysis evidenced the unidimensional factor structure and measurement invariance of the Korean BAS-2 among older Korean men and women, after dropping item 1. Scalar invariance was supported across gender, and men and women did not significantly differ in observed mean scores of the Korean BAS-2. The results also supported good convergent validity and criterion validity. Incremental validity was demonstrated by predicting self-esteem over and above measures of age, BMI, subjective financial and health status, body esteem, and ageism. High internal reliability and test-retest reliability over a 2-week period were confirmed. Overall, the results of this study support the reliable use of a Korean BAS-2 to measure positive body image among older Koreans after excluding item 1.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.394-410
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• 2023

This study aims to understand the influence of authentic marketing on the formation of trust between brands and customers and consumers' purchase intentions and to analyze the role that brand trust has in this process. In doing so, it examines the specific aspects of authentic marketing that increase brand trust and contribute to the formation of purchase intentions, which could then be leveraged as key elements of a company's marketing strategy. Data in this study was used frequency analysis and factor analysis through SPSS 26.0, and reliability analysis using Cronbach's alpha coefficient. Subsequently, confirmatory factor analysis, path model analysis, and mediated effect analysis were performed using AMOS. Finding indicate that, identity and truth in authentic marketing had a positive effect on brand trust but heritage and reality did not affect brand trust. It was also found that the factors of identity, heritage, reality, and trust did not significantly affect purchase intention. Additionally, brand trust was found to have a positive effect on purchase intention. Finally, the analysis indicates that brand trust plays a mediating role in the process of forming purchase intention through the factors of identity and truth in authentic marketing. Therefore, the core of authentic marketing is the sincere relationship between companies and consumers obtained from the clarity and integrity of messages, and in this process, mutual trust is built, which leads to product purchases. It can be surmised that the purpose of authentic marketing is to build relationships with consumers based on brand trust.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.705-719
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• 2023

The study aimed to investigate the factors influencing genderless fashion preferences. The questionnaires were collected from men and women participants aged 20 to 49 living in Seoul City and Gyeonggi Province. Data analysis involved factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA, and regression analysis. The findings revealed that genderless fashion preference comprised four factors, namely individuality pursuit, deviation from norms, fashion pursuit, and social recognition pursuit. Self-esteem encompassed two factors positive self-esteem, and negative self-esteem. while sociocultural attitude toward appearance consisted internalization, and awareness. Second, positive self-esteem significantly influenced individuality pursuit and deviation from norms in genderless preference factors. Third, sociocultural attitude toward appearance had a significant effect on genderless fashion preference, with awareness particularly exerting a significant effect on individuality pursuit, fashion pursuit, and social recognition pursuit. Fourth, genderless fashion preferences exhibited differences based on gender role identity in factors such as individual pursuit, norm avoidance, and trend pursuit. Lastly, demographic characteristics such as age, education, occupation, and monthly income revealed significant differences in genderless fashion preferences. From the results of the study, it was found that consumers perceived individuality pursuit, fashion pursuit, and social recognition pursuit as important influencing factors of genderless fashion preferences. In addition, it is necessary to create an independent brand identity by developing various items to express consumers' individuality, differentiated brand concepts from other brands, and store displays.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.720-737
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• 2023

This study aims to merge Picasso's expressive elements and deconstructive fashion's formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philoso-phical aspects. The analysis of Picasso's Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida's deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida's values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso's works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.776-792
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• 2023

This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people's clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe's shamanistic practices and lifestyle.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.793-805
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• 2023

This study analyzes the body shapes of lower-body obese female adolescents and proposes a slacks pattern suitable for their body type. Lower-body obesity is a prevalent type of teenage obesity, and our proposals aim to improve consumer satisfaction in ready-to-wear clothes across this demographic. We first observe characteristics of obese lower bodies, noting significantly above-average thigh and hip circumference. These figures indicate a high degree of curvature in obese lower bodies, along with a large drop value. Leveraging this data, we develop a novel slacks pattern using 3D avatars in a virtual simulation system. The formulas for the main areas of the pattern are as follows: front waist girth W/4+0.75cm+0.5cm, back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-0.5cm, front hip girth H/4+1.25cm-0.5cm, back hip girth H/4+2cm+0.5cm, front crotch extension H/16+0.5cm, back crotch extension H/8+1cm. Results from appearance evaluations show that this pattern minimizes strain rate on the waist and hips, and its average score is significantly higher than that of an alternative pattern that was also evaluated. The minimized strain rate and high average score indicate that our pattern assigns a sufficient amount of space to the appropriate areas. Based on these results, we expect our research to inform slacks pattern development and production for obese consumers of all types.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.651-668
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• 2023

This study aims to help companies with efficient investment and marketing strategies by empirically verifying the impact on satisfaction and purchase intention for artificial intelligence-based digital technology supported shopping assistants introduced in e-commerce. Frequency, factor, SEM, and multiple group analysises were conducted using SPSS 26.0 and Amos 26.0. As a result, first, motivated consumer innovativeness elements of AI shopping assistant were derived into a total of four categories: functional, hedonic, rational, and reliable. Second, in the order of hedonic and rational, satisfaction with the AI shopping assistant was significantly affected, and in the order of rational and functional, purchase intention was significantly affected. The satisfaction with the AI shopping assistant did not affect the purchase intention. Third, in the case of hedonic, the AI-preferred group had a more significant effect on satisfaction than the human-preferred group, and in the case of rational, there was no difference by group in purchase intention. Thus, it was found that consumers prefer AI shopping helpers for e-commerce because they can shop reasonably and are functionally convenient. Therefore, when introducing AI shopping assistants, it is essential to include content that can compare and analyze fundamental information, such as product prices, as well as search functions and payment system compatibility that facilitate shopping.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.586-606
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• 2023

This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study's findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying 'creases' and 'garment pressure points' in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented 'size spec' and 'ease allowance' for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.