DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Development of upcycle fashion design using Picasso's works and deconstructivism

피카소 작품과 해체주의 특성을 활용한 업사이클 패션디자인 개발

  • Haeun Hwang (Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University) ;
  • Younhee Lee (Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University)
  • 황하은 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공) ;
  • 이연희 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공)
  • Received : 2023.11.13
  • Accepted : 2023.12.19
  • Published : 2023.12.31

Abstract

This study aims to merge Picasso's expressive elements and deconstructive fashion's formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philoso-phical aspects. The analysis of Picasso's Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida's deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida's values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso's works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.

Keywords

References

  1. Art Institvte Chicago. (n.d.). The red armchair. Retrieved June 21, 2022, from https://www.artic.edu/artworks/5357/the-red-armchair
  2. Arthive. (n.d.). Nude (I love Eva). Retrieved March 2, 2023, from https://arthive.com/pablopicasso/works/197007~Nude_I_love_Eva
  3. Ban, R. (2014). A study on the ceramic sculpture based on cubism: Focused on the image of the horse. Unpublished master's thesis, Wonkwang University, Iksan, Korea.
  4. Berger, J. (2003). The success and failure of Picasso (H. G. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Artbooks. (Original work published 1965)
  5. Bernadac, M. L., & Du Bouchet, P. (1991). 피카소의 사랑과 예술 [Picasso's love and art] (Y. H. Yoon, Trans.). Seoul: Chaeksesang. (Original work published 1986)
  6. Bernadac, M. L., & Du Bouchet, P. (1996). 피카소: 성스러운 어릿광대 [Picasso : Holy clown] (K. R. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: Sigongsa. (Original work published 1986)
  7. Choi, E.-K., & Shim, H.-J. (2006). A study about fashion design of Korean paper, through the application of cubism works. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 9(2), 155-163.
  8. Choi, N. R. (2016). A study on the fashion design applying Claude Monet's painting. Unpublished master's thesis, Dongduk Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  9. Choi, S. G. (2004). 피카소의 연인들 [Picasso's lover]. Seoul: Hanmyung.
  10. Daix, P. (1991). PICASSO 파블로 피카소 [PICASSO Pablo Picasso] (J. G. Jeong & I. G. Eom, Trans.). Seoul: Youl Hwa Dang Publisher. (Original work published 1965)
  11. Dustin. (2014, December 9). Couture drama: Yves Saint Laurent, fall/winter 1979-80. Make Mine Vogue. Retrieved October 13, 2022, from https://makeminevogue.wordpress.com/2014/12/09/couture-drama-yves-saint-laurent-fallwinter-1979-80/
  12. Finlay, J. (2013). Picasso's World: 가장 도발적이고 창의적인 예술가 피카소의 삶과 예술이야기 [Picasso's world: Life and art stories of the most provocative and creative artist Picasso] (M. J. Jeong, Trans.). Seoul: Misul Munhwa. (Original work published 2011)
  13. Forster, U. (2022, February 3). Yves Saint Laurent aux musees. Kunst gedanken. Retrieved October 13, 2022, from https://www.kunstgedanken-magazin.de/kuenstler_innen/articles/yves-saint-lauret-aux-musees.html
  14. Gallerix. (n.d.). 1946 Le femme-fleur (Fran3oise Gilot) 1. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://gallerix.org/album/Picasso-1943-1961/pic/glrx-303027343
  15. Galluzzi, F. (2007). 피카소: 무한한 창조의 샘 [Picasso: An infinite fountain of creation (S. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Maroniebooks. (Original work published 2002)
  16. Han, M. (2021). Deconstruction fashion design using Hanbok based on 3D digital clothing technology. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea.
  17. Heo, J. Y. (2020). Upcycling shirt design with deconstructionist idea method. Journal of Basic Design & Art, 21(5), 655-668. doi:10.47294/KS BDA.21.5.47
  18. Jiang, M., & Park, E.-J. (2022). Hair art inspired by Picasso's work. The Korean Society Beauty and Art, 23(2), 89-105. doi:10.18693/jksba.2022.23.2.89
  19. Jin, W. (2001). The semiotics of Picasso's collage: A critical vision of the new methodology. Journal of the Association of Western Art History, 16, 65-86.
  20. Kang, H. S. (2011). A study on the image of cubism expressed on the art make-up: Focus on Picasso. Unpublished master's thesis, Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  21. Kim, H. Y., & Lee, S. Y. (2006). A study on the characteristics of deconstruction expressed in contemporary fashion. Journal of Human Life Sciences, 9, 113-130.
  22. Kim, J. (2011). Peace education through collaborative art making: Kids' international peace mural project. Journal of Art Education, 29, 23-52. doi:10.35657/jae.2011.29.0.002
  23. Kim, S. (2009). The study of the form and notion of cubism at the art class of a middle school: Focusing on the works of Pablo Picasso. Unpublished master's thesis, Pusan National University, Busan, Korea.
  24. Kim, S.-B. (2000). A study on the plastic influence of cubism on the Russian constructivist architecture. Unpublished master's thesis, Ulsan University, Ulsan, Korea.
  25. Kwon, H.-S. (2007). The mode and the characteristics of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design: Centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Journal of Fashion Business, 11(5), 110-123.
  26. Lee, A.-R. (2022). A study on the fashion design development of deconstructivism using the Korean images: Focused on the roof tile of Joseon Dynasty. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Dongseo University, Busan, Korea.
  27. Lee, H. N. (2011). Applying architectural aesthetic deconstruction in fashion design study: Focusing on the work of Frank Gehry. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  28. Lim, K. (1999). A study on the change of Picasso's expressional form. Unpublished master's thesis, Konkuk University, Gwangju, Korea.
  29. Lin, H., & Cong, X. (2016). Development of fashion design based on the formative characteristics of cubism arts. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 18(1), 61-78.
  30. MoMA. (n.d.). Pablo Picasso les demoiselles d'Avignon. Retrieved August 19, 2022, from https://www.moma.org/collection/works/79766
  31. Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. (n.d.). Guernica. Retrieved August 26, 2022, from https://www.museoreinasofia.es/en/collection/artwork/guernica
  32. National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art., & The Chosun Ilbosa. (2010). Picasso and modern art: Masterpieces from the Albertina, Vienna. Seoul: Author.
  33. No, S. J. (1993). 큐비즘 (CUBISM) 회화의 조형성에 관한 연구 [A study on the formality of cubism painting]. Unpublished master's thesis, Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  34. Pablopicasso.net. (n.d.). Women running on the beach. Retrieved September 1, 2022, from https://www.pablopicasso.net/women-running-on-the-beach/#google_vignette
  35. Pablopicasso.org. (n.d.a). Portrait of Ambroise Vollard, 1910 by Picasso. Retrieved August 19, 2022, from https://www.pablopicasso.org/portrait-of-ambroise-vollard.jsp#prettyPhoto
  36. Pablopicasso.org. (n.d.b). Still-life with chair caning, 1912 by Pablo Picasso. Retrieved August 25, 2022, from https://www.pablopicasso.org/still-life-with-chair-caning.jsp
  37. Pablopicasso.org. (n.d.c). The Dream (Le Reve), 1932 by Pablo Picasso. Retrieved August 30, 2022, from https://www.pablopicasso.org/the-dream.jsp
  38. Pablopicasso.org. (n.d.d). The women of Algiers, 1955 by Pablo Picasso. Retrieved August 26, 2022, from https://www.pablopicasso.org/the-women-of-algiers.jsp
  39. Pablopicasso.org. (n.d.e). Woman with pears, 1909 by Pablo Picasso. Retrieved March 2, 2023, from https://www.pablopicasso.org/woman-with-pears.jsp
  40. Park, E.-H. (2008). A study on Channel's works based on the formative aspect of Picasso from 1900's to 1930's. The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal, 10(3), 342-352.
  41. Park, N. (2010). A study on the presentation of colors in Pablo Ruiz Picasso's paintings. Journal of Korea Society of Color Studies, 24(2), 41-54. https://doi.org/10.17289/jkscs.24.2.201005.41
  42. Park, S. (2015). A study on the form of architecture and fashion in deconstructivism. Journal of Communication Design, 52, 164-175.
  43. Portrait of Dora Maar. (n.d.). In Wikipedia. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portrait_of_Dora_Maar
  44. Rhee, J. M. (1985). The study of collage technique in the art of cubism. Unpublished master's thesis, Dong-kuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  45. Seo, S., & Popelard, J. (2021). 피카소 탄생 140주년 특별전 [Picasso 140th Anniversary Special Exhibition] [Exhibition]. Seoul, Korea: Hangaram Art Museum.
  46. Seoul Museum of Art. (2006). Picasso: The great century. Seoul: Hankook Ilbosa.
  47. Shin, C., & Kim, J.-S. (2018). Characteristic of upcycle design in modern fashion. Journal of Korea Design Forum, 23(2), 97-106. doi:10.21326/ksdt.2018.23.2.009
  48. Song, A. (2009). A study on fashion design adapting cubism aesthetics. Unpublished master's thesis, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  49. Sung, P. (2011). A study on fashion design adapting geometric form of analytic cubism aesthetics. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  50. Vogue. (n.d.). Vogue runway Moschino spring 2020 ready-to-wear. Retrieved October 18, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-202 0-ready-to-wear/moschino#gallery-collection
  51. Walther, I. F. (2005). Pablo Picasso (J. G. Jeong, Trans.). Seoul: Maroniebooks. (Original work published 1994)
  52. Whee, S. Y. (2006). A study on costume designing through various application of works by Picasso: Foucused on emphasizing the era of dream analysis. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  53. Won, S. (2000). A study on the fashion design through discompositionary approach of deconstruction. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.