• Title/Summary/Keyword: Postmodernism

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A Study of Fetishism in Fashion -Underwear Fetish- (패션에 나타난 페티시즘 연구 -언더웨어 페티시(Underwear Fetish)-)

  • 이의정;양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.23 no.2
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    • pp.272-283
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    • 1999
  • Fetishism originated from the cultural and social products is related to many aspects of arts and sciences ; postmodernism psychoanalysis and subculture of pornography. Fetishism was reflected on fashion and now has been one of hot issues in high fashion, Waist was one of the erotic zone of body both in man and woman and sadomasockhistic fetishism was originated from physical damages on this zone. The aim of this experiment was to study what kind of fetishism was revealed on fashion especially in women and men's underwear fetish. In conclusion fetishism which has a long history and now been a one of popular high fashions in Western society is still unfamiliar to Korean fashion society. Researches of fetishism including deviant sex was still restricted in Korean society due to "Confuncianism" which has been a ruling philosophies in Korean culture. However the sex moral in modern Korean society is now being generous year by year and sex is no more a toboo to talk with. Fashion fashion will increase its market share in near future in Korea and 력\ulcorner studies of fetishism is needed.

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Characteristics of female sublimity represented on Korean fashion designers' works (한국 패션디자이너 작품에 나타난 여성적 숭고의 특성)

  • Jeong Sook, Ji;Yhe-Young, Lee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.30 no.6
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    • pp.898-918
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    • 2022
  • Contemporary fashion research has paid increasing attention to the sublimity in the context of postmodernism. Sublimity is considered essential in contemporary fashion design as it arouses complex emotions which verbal expression cannot describe. Therefore, contemporary fashion designs need to be interpreted in terms of the sublimity. Through a detailed review of literature, the present study discusses Kantian and Lyotardian sublimity as main theories representing conventional and cotemporary concepts of sublimity. This paper selected five Korean fashion designers who won the prize of Samsung Design Fund from 2006 to 2019 and actively introduce their works every year. Images were collected to analyze their designs introduced from 2018 S/S to 2019F/W at their website. In addition, formative and color characteristics were analyzed to identify the changing features of s sublimity. Major findings of analyses are as follows. First, all designers' collections reflected both male and female sublimity with the respect to its formative characteristics. Color characteristics of sublimity indicated that Jeong, Wook Jun's collections represented features of male sublimity and other designers works showed elements of female sublimity. Essentially, the typical contemporary concept of the sublimity was found in the designs of Seo, Hye In. Consequently, female sublimity is more inclusive than male sublimity, while being opened to otherness.

The commonality between German Neo-expressionism and Chinese Modern ink painting (독일 신표현주의와 중국 현대 수묵의 상통성)

  • LI QING;Hong Sun Hoan
    • The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.509-518
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    • 2023
  • Although German Neo-expressionism and Chinese modern ink painting are separated by thousands of miles in geographical space, they have a similar origin time, and there are many commonalities between them. In the aspect of creative attitude, artists of both styles can absorb and resist foreign styles, return to the past and conquer the tradition. In the aspect of formal expression, the objects of both paintings are representational rather than realistic, and the material characteristics of the media are emphasized. At the inner spiritual level, both expressionism and modern ink painting pay attention to social concern, and show the uncertainty of postmodernism together. The commonality between German neo-expressionism and Chinese modern ink painting does not mean to eliminate the difference, but to maintain the coexistence of difference and commonality.

Aesthetic Characteristics of Elegance Expressed on Fashion Since 1990s (1990년대 이후 패션에 나타난 엘레강스 스타일의 미적 특성)

  • Ko Hyunzin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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    • pp.403-413
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study is to interpret the elegant dressing visualized in modem fashion on the basis of the concept of elegance in dress and its aesthetic characteristics from the holistic viewpoint. Elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding, considering from the documentary study. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress but also a sort of aura of dressed body with skillful ease. The aesthetic values of elegance consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony. To grasp the trends of elegant styles since 1990s, contents analysis of the articles related to elegance in Vogue has been done. As a result, they have been classified into four groups of elegant styles which are Classic, Elaborate Couture, Soft Minimalism, Kitsch Elegance. Classic Elegance and Elaborate Couture Elegance represent traditional ones with conservative viewpoint. Soft Minimalism Elegance is a modem version of elegance. According to postmodernism as a open system, even kitsch has been refined to keep accompany with elegance fur aristocratic taste of high class. As a result of this study, in fashion from the 16th century to the first half of 16th century, elegance has been one of the significant aesthetic categories, resulting from the absolute domination of taste of high society. However in the end of 20th century it seems to start to fade in fashion trends such as mass fashion, youth culture, casual fashion etc. Rather, it can be thought that elegance has been expressed as one of the aesthetic values in dress, by virtue of its value of high class as well as its conservative stability.

The Sublime in Contemporary Fashion - Focused on the Fashion from the Early 90's - (현대 패션에 표현된 숭고미에 관한 연구 - 1990년 이후부터 현재까지의 패션을 중심으로 -)

  • Choi Soo-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.7 s.98
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    • pp.114-130
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    • 2005
  • In postmodernism, the sublime that reaches ecstasy overcoming terror or pain is described as the most expressive phenomenon. The purpose of this study is to understand the sublime expressed in contemporary fashion. for this purpose, 1 investigated the theories of the sublime, categorized the definition and modes, then applied those categories for contemporary fashion. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetic, design and fashion books and the demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from fashion magazines. In the history of aesthetics, the sublime is explained as the ambivalent feeling mixed with pain and pleasure, terror and delight or negation and affirmation. In this study, the sublime could be defined as the aesthetic pleasure through the transcendence of the pain and terror and classified into 3 categories, the tragic, the initiative, and the deconstructive. The tragic sublime that includes the terrific, the disgusting and the religious character is expressed through the image of death or the physical torture, the satanic image or disgusting object and the ascetic image and religious sign or icons. The limitless sublime that includes the giant and the dynamic character is accomplished by consist of the elongation or the enlargement and the powerful authority. The deconsturctive sublime that includes the negative, the indeterminate and the complex character is associated with the deconstruction in style, the reversal of image and the destruction of the space of the body. Analysis on the sublime expressed in contemporary fashion may provide an excellent way for understanding human aesthetic consciousness in dress.

A Study on Non-western modernity of Surface Phenomena in Korean Commercial Architecture (한국 상업건축 입면현상의 비서구적 근대성에 대한 연구)

  • Lee, Sang-Hun
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.20 no.6
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    • pp.218-227
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    • 2011
  • Korean commercial architecture is based on two distinctive characteristics of western modern architecture: grid frame structure and free facade. However, the original facade of the building disappears as numbers of commercial advertisements and signboards representing inner programs cover up the original facade. This is a unique feature of commercial architecture in Korea which I would call the surface phenomena of Korean commercial architecture. Common criticism on this type of building is that too many and too big signboards infringe upon the original pure facade of the architecture. Underlying assumption here is that signboards and commercial ads are inessential and decorative elements simply attached to the original pure facade of modern architecture. However, in this paper, I argue that commercial decorations is an essential aspect of korean commercial architecture rather than an inessential decorative element attached later to the essential facade of architecture and that it reflects the historical specificity of cultural and architectural modernity of Korea And thus, the surface phenomena of Korean commercial architecture should not be judged based upon the aesthetic paradigms of either western modern or postmodern architecture. Rather, it can be argued that surface phenomena of Korean commercial architecture is a reflection of a modernity beyond the paradigm of western modernism and postmodernism. The agenda of Korean commercial architecture is then not simply to restrict or to control signboards on the building facades with the intention to clean up facade of the building but rather to integrate the signs and commercial ads with the structure of architectural surface.

Analysis on Pataphysics of the Metamorphosis in Film 'X-Men' (영화 '엑스맨(X-Men)'의 변신모티브에 나타난 파타피직스 분석)

  • Chang, Seyoung;Chung, Jeanhun
    • Journal of Digital Convergence
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    • v.14 no.10
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    • pp.407-414
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    • 2016
  • The movie, X-men, develops the narrative with metamorphosis as the main motif making visual effects of characters and background. The objective of this study is to suggest that the metamorphosis motif can be materialized based on the virtuality of "pataphysics" as one of the genre characteristics of superhero movies and the newly materialized virtuality can be aesthetic characteristics of metamorphosis motif movies. With the virtuality that has its own characteristics with metaphorical symbols such as satire on an absurd society out of existing traditions, pataphysics started in mid-twentieth century and has had an impact on art movements of dadaism, surrealism, pop art, and postmodernism. Analyzing the characteristics of pataphysics which were shown in these artworks, we applied it to metamorphosis scenes of the movie. As a result, we found out that it visualized the shape and aspect of inner and outer strength of a superhero with aesthetic characteristics of metamorphosis scenes and it realized the presence, hybridity, and ex-formal properties of pataphysics consisting of overlapped virtual and physical reality, with technical virtuality.

A Study on the Retro Technology Fashion Design with Floral Patterns -through CAD- (꽃문양을 활용한 레트로 테크널러지 패션 디자인 연구 -CAD를 활용하여-)

  • Jung Mi-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.7 s.106
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    • pp.105-120
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    • 2006
  • Today's radical change of environment and technology spreaded high-technology art by cutting across a general idea of art, expressed machine aesthetic in fashion style by influencing materials and production processes of fashion. The purpose of this research is to take another look at the value and the importance of ornaments in terms of fashion design, to overcome the negative aspect of Technology Fashion by designing Retro Technology Fashion that harmonizes reason with sensibilities through floral patterns. The results of this study are as followings. 1. If Retro technology Fashion was analyzed by time and space element that are postmodernism techniques, there are Ethnic Technology Fashion that are based on space and historical Technology Fashion that are based on time. In terms of spare element, there is the hybrid of revival of exotic folklore with Technology fashion. In terms of time element, there is the hybrid of costumes of before 20th Century with Technology Fashion. It means unifying detail or silhouette of costumes of ancient time to modern time wit Technology Fashion. For another time element, the hybrid of retro fashion after 20th Century with Technology Fashion. The retro nostalgia is revived by the floral patterns or silhouette of Hippie fashion unified with Technology Fashion. 2. Based on above research, Retro Technology Fashion with floral pattern on CAD were designed. As the results, for Ethno Fashion that is spatial retro, 'Asian Technology fashion' was designed with bright colors, China collar that are oriental, and vinyl material. For historical Technology fashion that are based on time, 'Space Middle Age' was designed with tight silhouette, party colored pants and plastic material.

The Style of Romanticism on Fashion(I) (로맨티시즘 복식의 양식(I))

  • 이경아;전혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.1
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    • pp.141-157
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to clarify the style of romanticism in fashion. Romanticism is advocating the conception called the respect of diversity and individuality in the modern society dominated by postmodernism trying to accept the various values.. In this study, the characteristics of romanticism are examined through the bibliographies on philosophy, aesthetics, architecture and art. In fashion. 19C is based on the costume history books and pictures. The characteristics of romanticism in literature and art which are applied to fashion are sensuality, ornament, exoticism and complexity. On the basis of these characteristics, the 19C fashion of romanticism are analyzed as follows. ㆍ Sensuality to emphasize sexual region of woman's body and to make ‘X’ silhouette is through exaggeration and exposure. This is the characteristic to relieve femininity. ㆍ Ornamentation is expressed in the gorgeous color and the varied material. details and trimming to add the fantastic mood, and the accessory to express the aristocratic elegance. This is a very important characteristic that produces the fantastic and romantic mood. ㆍExoticism to express aspiration for East is expressed either in items or accessories imported from the East. or in exotic material and pattern. This is the characteristic of fashion to express the desire to escape from the reality in the mysterious mood. ㆍMingler is expressed, contrasting or harmonizing the various patterns, color, material in a fashion by the textile with the rich color and print of the various feeling and many trimming. This is the external characteristic of the romanticism fashion combined the experimental mind of the technical progress with the romantic trend in those days. These characteristics of romanticism fashion in the 19th century presented with the various phenomena by working complexly rather than independently.

A Comparative Study on Women's Cosmetic Culture of Korea and the West in the 20th (20세기 한국과 서양의 여성 화장문화 비교연구)

  • 김희숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50
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    • pp.85-96
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    • 2000
  • The study is aimed to analyse social and cultural background and to compare the changes of the cosmetic culture in Korea and the western countries accompanied by the developemnt os the cosmetic industry in the 20th century. The cosmetic culture of Korea has kept on changing adopting the new western style make up, These changes were very closely related with the current sociocultural environments and the developments of the cosmetic industry. The analysis and comparison of Korean cosmetic culture and that of Western countries can be summarized as following: Fistly the cosmetic culture of korea came out after Korean War through the improt of western movies. Secondly at the beginning of accommodation of the western concept of beauty the standards of beauty were confused with that of traditional make up. Thirdly in terms of the history of costumes in the western cosmetic culture the trend was feminine and curve lineal style in the 1910s straight and young style in the 1920s Young elegant curve lineal style and straight-line style replaced among themselves in every 10 years and the cycle became more rapid after the 1970s and there were diversity in the cosmetic culture affected by the postmodernism Fourthly the cosmetic culture of :total fashion" was taken into consideration. Fifthly the cosmetic culture of "total fashion" was taken into consideration. fifthly the make up of Korean and that of western countries are not only a way to express of aesthetic desire for beauty but sanitary management and it is a kind of an expansion of value for management for an inner self. Now is the time to refuse the attitude of accommodation of the western cosmetic culture without any consideration. We need to rediscover our traditional cosmetic culture and cultural distinctiveness and try to mix them with the western cosmetic culture in order to develop our own peculiar style which will be able to Korean design remain in the international stage and grow further.d grow further.

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