• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.892-907
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.53-61
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to compare the flat pattern with the draping pattern for the jacket. The results of this study were as follows: 1) According to the sensory evaluation for the movement, P2 flat pattern was more comfortable than the draping pattern at 88-94(N)-160 (77size). 2) The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern for the collar at 82-90(N)-160(55size), 85-92(N)-160(66size) and 88-94(N)-160(77size). 3) The draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern in the sensory evaluation for the front and back. 4) Lee Hyung-Suck's flat pattern (P1) was better in appearance than the P2 and the draping pattern (P3) for the side sensory evaluation at 82-90(N)-160(55size) and 85-92(N)-160(66size).

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.279-292
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• 2016

This research predicted the fit of the basic bodice patterns worn on adolescent girls' 3-dimensional scanned bodies. Six 3-dimensional scanned bodies were selected from the sixth Size Korea data. Each of them had good body posture and represented one of the three garment sizes: 79-160, 82-160, and 85-160. Experimental basic bodice patterns were drafted by three basic bodice pattern making methods. The fit of the basic bodice pattern was analyzed by the CLO 3D virtual clothing system. The results showed that the experimental basic bodice patterns did not fit well at the neck, shoulder, and back for adolescent girls. The fit of the basic bodice patterns varied by pattern making method or size. The basic bodice pattern A with the waist darts ending above the breast line showed the best fit among the three different types of experimental pattern. Among the three sizes 79-160, 82-160, and 85-120, size 79-160 basic bodice pattern showed the worst fit for adolescent girls. The results show that the placement and size of the bodice darts affect the basic bodice pattern fit. The basic bodice pattern making method of size 79-160 for adolescent girls should be studied in a future study.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.114-130
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of Dot Pattern Size(0.8, 1.8, 2.5, 5, 8), color combination(W/Bk, Bk/Gr, Gr/W), Area-Ratio(Background/Dot, Dot/Background) on wearing dot-printed dresses image. Sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic) were used as experimental materials. The stimuli were 30 color pictures manipulated with the combination of Dot Pattern Size, color combination, and Area-Ratio using computer simulation. The subjects were 180 female undergraduates living in Gyeongnam-do. The data was analyzed by using SPSS program. Analyzing methods were ANOVA and LSD test. Image factor of the stimulus was composed of 5 different components, visibility, chastity, attractiveness, cuteness and feminity. Among them, the visibility and chastity were important. Each dimensional image was affected by dot pattern size, color combination and Area-Ratio. In the visibility image, color combination(W/Bk is the most effective) is more influential, the larger size is effective pattern. In the cuteness and feminity image, area ratio(low-brightness dot pattern is the more effective) is more effective than color combination or dot pattern size. Even the same dot pattern size and area was recognized as different image depending on the area ratio. According to the variation of dot pattern size, color combination and area-ratio, it was investigated that the images for a dress wearer were expressed diversely, were shown differently in image dimensions, and could be produced to different images.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.87-95
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to survey toddlers' apparel brands in Korea for operation of pattern work rooms, pattern sizes and uses of bodies and measurements, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to development of toddlers' apparel prototypes and production of bodies. For this study, 13 domestic brands were surveyed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; As a result of surveying the pattern work rooms, it was found that 53.8% of the sample brands employed a director of pattern work room, while 38.5% of them did not employed any pattern director. 7.7% of the sample brands employed two pattern directors. Such findings suggests that pattern works for toddlers' apparels are neither specialized nor differentiated as for adults' apparels, and therefore, that apparel production is not efficient. In view of the body profiles, only six brands possessed some or other bodies produced in Japan. The average breast size of No. 3 body was found 51.7cm, waist 48.4cm and hip size was 53.7cm. According to National Standard Body Size Survey Report, average breast size of three-year-old toddlers is 51.2cm, The average waist size is 49.5cm, and the hip size is 52.6cm. All in all, our toddlers' sizes are slightly different from Japanese toddlers', and so, it is deemed necessary to produce the bodies for our toddlers' apparels. As a consequence of surveying the measurements used for pattern production, it was found that five brands of the sample brands were using some or other 'body measurements', and another five brands were body measurements and apparel ones in parallel. All the brands sampled were found using some or other 'apparel measurements'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.62-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop men's formal jacket pattern for the Korean males of age 25 to 34 age with an average physique. Through the survey on seven industries of the ready-made men's wear, we investigated size systems and jacket patters presently practiced. From the fitting test of four patterns (three for ready-made jacket patterns, one for educational pattern) the moat favorable and comfortable pattern was selected. New experimented jacket pattern was based on it. The findings were as followed. 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industries showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own size systems. 2) Anthropometric measurments of forty males for the subjects of lilting test were agreed to the survey of National Anthropometric of Korean(1997). These were also compatible to the standard size (100-88-175) of investigated industries. 3) Experimental jacket pattern was completed through the three times rectification and it gained higher ratings.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.548-555
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the patterns of commercial Cheollik dresses by size analysis and wearing evaluation. Six kinds of commercial Cheollik dress patterns distributed on the market were selected and classified into two types group, A type group(A-1, A-2, A-3) consisting of flat type sleeve pattern and B type group(B-1, B-2, B-3) consisting of three-dimensional type sleeve pattern depending on the sleeve type. The size of the Cheollik dress pattern was analyzed, and wearing evaluations of the appearance, movability were carried out. Cheollik dress pattern was made in various size and many patterns were produced in the form of omission of components such as seop. It should be based on the understanding of the form and composition of the traditional Cheollik for pattern development. As a result of the wearing evaluation, A-2 showed the highest evaluation in the appearance and movability evaluations in type A. B-2 was the highest evaluation in appearance evaluation in type B. But in the evaluation of the movability, B-2 received the lowest evaluation because of little allowance. Therefore, the allowance in clothes should be considered enough for the movability. The result of this study can be provided as a basic data for the development of Cheollik dress pattern reflecting modern trend and the traditional beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.63-79
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• 2011

This study examines the relationship between breast shape and brassiere construction through the comparative analysis of brassiere pattern on the breast shape. This researcher drew the brassiere pattern of developing a pre-study for Chinese female adults according to average size based on the four breast shapes. And then we measures brassiere pattern size and comparatively analyzes breast between size and shape. Comparative analysis results of brassiere patterns are verified differences of size and shape on the breast shape. Above all an angle of cup dart showed remarkable differences on the breast shape. An angle of cup dart isn't proportioned to breast size. An angle of cup dart for cone shape is bigger than dome shape. Because cone shape breast is protruded center part but dome shape breast have a shape of smooth curve like a half globe. So an angle of a cone shape breast cup dart is determined bigger than dome shape breast. For increasing the uplift effect of brassiere, brassiere pattern is different on the breast shape. And a brassiere pattern need different drawing methods about the angle of cup dart, breast inner side diameter, slope and so on. This study has an important significance that it established a mechanical relationship of breast shape and brassiere pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.54-68
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of dot pattern size(0.8, 1.8, 2.5, 5, 8), color combination(BG/R, Y/B), area-ratio on image formation. Sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic) were used as experimental materials. The stimuli were 20 color pictures manipulated with the combination of dot pattern size, color combination, and area-ratio using computer simulation. The subjects were 240 female undergraduates living in Gyeongnam-do. Image factor of the stimulus was composed of 5 different components, visibility, attractiveness, cuteness, stability and high class image. In the cuteness, color combination, dot pattern size showed independent effect. In the stability, area-ratio, dot pattern size showed independent effect. Interaction effects of color and area-ratio combination was significant on cuteness. For visibility image 8cm yellow dot/blue background, for attractiveness image BG/R coloration, for cuteness image Y/B coloration and for stability image 0.8cm yellow dot/blue background were effective. According to the variation of dot pattern size, color combination and area-ratio, it was investigated that the images for a dress wearer were expressed diversely, were shown differently in image dimensions, and could be produced to different images.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.15-29
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• 2014

Setting the ease amount takes the important part to the fit that consumers satisfies. Therefore, it is required to create a pattern for off-the-rack jackets that considers the proper amount of ease. However, few studies have been done previously regarding the ease amount of jacket pattern for the women in their 20s whose demand for jacket is high and who are sensitive to the fit. Therefore, this study selected top five brands in terms of sales and preference among the national female apparel brands. It obtained a tailored jacket pattern for basic size (55 size) and made the jacket. Then, an expert panel group put the pattern on Hani body, a torso dummy for education made by the anthropometric data of Size Korea for females in their 20s and conducted an evaluation on the ease amount and analyzed the results. As a result, the ease amount of the Pattern A was evaluated as proper and that of the Pattern B was found to be lease proper. From the fact, we can see that each of the top 5 off-the-rack brands has different ease amount, though they are of the same basic size (55 size).