• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.323-330
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• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2005

This study were carried out to investigate the effects of mordants and mordanting methods under the various dyeing conditions such as temperature, time, pH, repetition of dyeing in the silk fabrics with Petasites japonicus leaf. It was the most high K/S values of the silk fabrics dyed with Petasites japonicus leaf according to co mordanting and used cupric sulfate, ferric sulfate as mordanting agents. K/S values of the silk fabrics dyed with Petasites japonicus leaf were increased gradually with dyeing temperature, dyeing time, repetition of dyeing was higher and the optimum pH was pH 7. Silk fabrics were colored yellowish orange and surface color(munsell value) was changed from 8.3YR to 2.0Y by using mordanting agents and those of the silk showed high tone when mordanting with cupric sulfate but decolored and darked when mordanting with ferric sulfate. Washing fastness of silk fabrics were good in 4 ～ 5 grade, so washing fastness of the silk fabrics was significantly improved when washed with the neutral detergent.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.140-148
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• 2013

This research was carried out to find the dyeabilities and mordants effects of cow leather dyed with Lac powder. They were examined by changing dye concentration, dyeing temperature, bath ratio, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. And K/S values and surface color changes were evaluated by various mordanting conditions. The optimum dyeing conditions of the cow leather dyed with Lac powder were 30%, $40^{\circ}C$, 30:1, 30minutes, and 4 repetitions. The K/S values were higher in post mordant than pre mordanting condition. The surface colors of dyed cow leathers were R and RP. The dye fastnesses increased in post Cu and Fe mordanting, as decreased in gallnut and chestnut's skin conditions.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.380-390
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• 2005

The effect of high purity chitosan was studied on its application to the natural dyeing using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were introduced on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, we found that, in the case of cotton, chitosan untreated fabrics were not dyed enough, and the dyeing effect was not developed even though the mordanting was introduced. However, the chitosan treated fabrics developed excellent dyeing result even in the non-mordanting case. Through the results of cotton fabric dyeing, it was presumed that the dyeing affinity of the chitosan toward the Rhusjara ica, which prefer specific dyestuff (mainly black color), is selectively high. In the case of nylon, the dyeing effect is not developed easily under all conditions regardless of the chitosan treatment or the mordant treatment. It was inferred that a certain portion of the Rhusjara ica dyestuff made direct bonding with the functional elements in the nylon molecules without the help of the mordant. Through the results of nylon fabrics, it was presumed that some functional elements of the nylon molecules had selective affinity toward the specific colorant (mainly yellow color) of the Rhusjara ica.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.542-546
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• 2005

This study was investigated to establish the optimum conditions of dyeing silk fabric with Brassica campestris. This experiment was done under different dyeing conditions of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing repeating times, and mordants which were treated pre, syn, and post methods. The effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting were evaluated in terms of dyeaffinity(K/S value) and CIE-Lab color factors. Also, the effect of mordanting on color fastnesses was assessed. The dyeaffinity increased remarkably as dye concentration increased up to 200% owf. The dyeaffinity increased continuously with dyed temperature and reached dyeing equilibrium at $80^{\circ}C$. The maximum dyeaffinity was observed at 30minutes of dyeing time. In the relationship between the K/S value and dyeing repeating times, the K/S value became higher as repeating time was increased. The changes of surface color and colorfatness of dyes were not increased greatly on all mordanting states. The extracts of Brassica campestris produced mainly yellow color in silk fabric. The antimicrobial activity existed slightly as the ratio of 22.7%.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.822-826
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• 2008

The data for application of mordanting is shown in this experiment by researching dying properties of iron-dye process and concentration changes using persimmon. The strength of persimmon-dying fabrics was controlled by diluting persimmon dye with water and iron mordanting showed the possibility of textile design. The experiments were performed with various conditions processed with iron mordanting liquid by adding water to persimmon-dying liquid and drying well. The most dark color of fabric is observed with the pure persimmon dying without adding water. As the adding water is increased, the color of the fabric is getting lighter with the amount of adding water. After process of iron mordanting, dark color of the fabric turns into dark grey and light color turns into light grey. The possibility of persimmon dying with fabric can be applied in the design of textile with deepened color.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.33-41
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• 1997

This paper surveys the extraction condition of polygenetic natural dye, Sappan Wood and the effect of ash to the dyeability and fastness. The appropriate time for extracting Sappon Wood was 1hour. The pH was increased as the amount of ash increase. The pH was nearly invariable according to the time of ash solution, the extracting times and temperature. Absorbance of dyeing fabrics was about 480nm. From the result of K/S value determination of fabrics, 10g/$\ell$ quantity of ash was surfficient for treatment and the amount of Sappon Wood was in 100% o.w.f.. K/S value of fabrics pre-mordanted or post-mordanted were higher than that of fabrics simultaneous mordanted.K/S value was increased as pH of mordanting bath decrease and pre-mordanting and post-mordanting fabrics increased the amount of absorption (K/S value) compared with non-mordanted fabrics. It was found that pH of mordanting bath affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed fabrics. Light fastness of fabric dyed was very poor and the fastness of fabric dyed was not influenced by the mordanting conditions and methods.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.51-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to check color change depending on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics was dyed with gromwell and to investigate mordant effect when synthetic tannin was used as a mordant. First, when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell, the change of color, brightness and chroma were examined by measuring K/S value, a, b value, L value and C value depending on dyeing condition. Second, color, brightness and chroma differences which appeared after mordanting with synthetic tannin were investigated and muti-functional mordanting effect was confirmed with dyeing fastness, antibiosis. As a result of color analysis of gromwell, it was proved that the main pigment of gromwell was shikonin. Color was red purple at pH 3 when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell. But It became greenish and bluish as temperature rose and time passed by. And it grew reddish and yellowish as concentration level reached higher. The color became purple at pH 5 and purple blue at pH 7. Both at pH 5 and pH 7, it became greenish and yellowish, as temperature went up and time ran by. And it became reddish with concentration increasing. Brightness and chroma decreased with temperature and concentration increasing as well as time passing by. After mordanting with synthetic tannin, the color became less reddish at pH 3 and reddish-yellowish at pH 5 and pH 7. The brightness increased and the chroma decreased. At all pH, the color, the brightness and the chroma became similarly by synthetic tannin mordanting. Dyeing fastness of synthetic tannin mordanted fabric was higher than that of non-mordanted fabric. Especially, wet fastness at pH 3 improved from 1 grade before synthetic tannin mordanting to $3{\sim}4$ grade after tannin mordanting. Antibiosis was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권9호
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• pp.1301-1307
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rubia akane Nakai appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting conditions of Rubia akane Nakai were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of the dyed fabric was investigated. The optimum temperature to extract Rubia akane Nakai was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 8$0^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with purpurin appeared red color, with alizarine appeared yellow-brown and with Rubia akane Nakai appeared yellow orange. K/S value of the dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment. Mordant as Sn and Fe was better than anything else in K/S value. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Rubia akane Ntkai light fastness was increased by Fe and Al mordant treatment, Perspiration fastness of Rubia akane Nakai appeared more than 3 grades geneally. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appeared mon than 4～5 grades and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.248-254
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• 2005

In this study, wool fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the case of wool fabric specimen, regardless of the type of mordanting agents, peak dye-uptake amount was obtained at the acidic region, pH 4, and above pH 6, the dye-uptake amount decreased remarkably. Differing from the cotton fabric case, the dyed wool fabric specimen exhibited red shade even in the case of non-mordanting, at the region of pH values of 4 and 5. It is presumed that in the acidic dye bath the effect of cationic amine group present in the structure of wool fiber molecules took place. The amount of color difference, among the mordanting agents, due to the increase of pH value, was highest for the Fe mordanting case. It seems, therefore, that the Fe mordanting is affected most by the pH value.