The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지

A Study on Cochineal Dyeing by Various Mordants and pH Conditions II -Treatment on Wool Fabric-

염욕의 pH와 매염제의 변화에 따른 코치닐의 염색성 연구 II -양모직물을 중심으로-

  • Kim Kyung-Sun (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Kim Jong-Jun (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Jeon Dong-Won (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University)
  • 김경선 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과) ;
  • 김종준 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과) ;
  • 전동원 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과)
  • Published : 2005.04.01
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

In this study, wool fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the case of wool fabric specimen, regardless of the type of mordanting agents, peak dye-uptake amount was obtained at the acidic region, pH 4, and above pH 6, the dye-uptake amount decreased remarkably. Differing from the cotton fabric case, the dyed wool fabric specimen exhibited red shade even in the case of non-mordanting, at the region of pH values of 4 and 5. It is presumed that in the acidic dye bath the effect of cationic amine group present in the structure of wool fiber molecules took place. The amount of color difference, among the mordanting agents, due to the increase of pH value, was highest for the Fe mordanting case. It seems, therefore, that the Fe mordanting is affected most by the pH value.

Keywords