• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.147-156
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• 2001

The painting style has much influenced on the creativity of design in the developmental process of modern fashion. This fact tells that pure art and fashion design have the same purpose in the end. In this paper. the color Autonomy of Matisse was analyzed and how its result influences on modern fashion design was investigated. Matisse is, in fact. the leader of Fauvism and the painter who brought the Fauvism painting to its perfection in the purest state. Matisse achieved the revolution of new color with only the color in expressing formative factor. Matisse's color autonomy are fusion technique, flatness, decoration, simplicity, etc. To sum up the influence that this autonomy played on modern fashion design, intensive pure color expression, strongly-supplemented color effect among primary colors, decoration of color, simplicity of color, that is to say. he gave rise to the revolution of color, Many modern designers are applying this method to the theme of fashion and motive, color the technique of expression. Thanks to this. the new formative artistic expression could be adapted in fashion, and it also induced the inspiration of original design, with great contribution to bringing the era of its own distinct individualism in modern times.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.5-22
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• 1994

This study was intended to analyze the con-cept of unconsciousness of Surrealism on the fabric of modern fashion. Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and artistic en-vironment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Especially the surrealistic methodology was changed into various methods of surreal-istic painters, They explored the world of subconsciousness of uncosciousness in the world of human being. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental disruption. By this fact human being of the 20th century was sought a philosophical and artistic value to overcome social disease. That is their search for spiritual world was interested in surrealist's psychoanalytical method. The fashion in the 20th century is changing rapidly for the new century to come. Under such circumstances as these modern fashion is attempted to pursue new innovative and in-dividual ideas. recently the mental images through Surrealism was represented in the for-mative feature of modern fashion. To study the concept of unconsciousness of Surrealism on the fabric of modern fashion I selected and examined artistic books and fashion magazines. As a result of this review I found that some fabrics used in modern fashion are printed in a free shapes without any meaning or form.

• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.51-66
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• 2005

Fashion is to emphasize the importance of total coordination in creating an image. Therefore, modern fashion is not the conformation of fixed beauty but it exist in the expressed form of the variety and the completion according to the individual's personality for the self image of the clothes, the hair and make-up, the accessories and the like. This study Is aimed at reviewing one of the tendency of modern fashion coordination and the characteristics of John Gallianos fashion work and there upon, analizing the characteristics of John Galliano's fashion show, who is one of the most leading fashion designer, by dividing them Into four categories in large: 1) The maximum effect of fashion image by make-up and hair style 2) Adventurous fashion coordination with daring decoration 3) Fascinating fashion coordination Harmonized with color 4) Enlargement in the concept of fashion coordination by experimental way of clothing

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.349-357
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• 2016

As a solemn and serious uniform, military uniform can be differentiated easily from any other clothing in the aspects of color, material and style. Inspired by military uniform, fashion designers have been applying military uniform elements into modern fashion design in recent years, which helps to bring military uniform from the trench onto international fashion runway. The primary method of this research is theory analysis method and exampling study method. Based on the collected materials of modern military uniform, this paper takes the fashion and cultural study theory of the famous American scholar Susan B. Kaiser as the leading theory to analyze four subject positions embodied in military uniform, including nation, rank, gender and time and space. By analyzing the subject positions embodied in military uniform, it shows the rich cultural connotation of military uniform and the function of various small details. Meanwhile, by giving specific examples, this paper explores the influences of military uniform on modern fashion design in respect to color, style, material, pattern and accessory. Through the conduct of this research, it comes to the conclusion that military uniform also has the characteristics and properties described in the fashion and cultural theory of Susan B. Kaiser, in addition, designers can be inspired by every specific object around them, which shows the talents of designers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.461-472
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive style of radical feminism and post-modern feminism appearing on the contemporary denim fashion by examining pictures from professional fashion magazine Vogue. For this study, I investigated documents to study the characteristic of radical feminism and post-modern feminism and classified the contemporary denim fashion into erotic look, endrogynous look and deconstructive look. The results of study on the expression style of feminism reflected on the contemporary denim fashion were as follows: First, radical feminism emphasizes that women's sexual feature is never inferior to men's. Therefore in denim fashion, erotic style which emphasize on women's sexual beauty is represented by making hot pants, mini skirt, halter blouse of denim and by using colored jeans and flower print or beads on denim. Second, post-modern feminism has been represented by disregarding or intergrating the existed rule as refusing sexual discrimination. It has been represented in fashion as an endrogynous style by representing neutral gender image. Today, it is represented in denim fashion by mixing a different fabric with denim and matching womanish design with mannish design. Third, post-modem feminism are classified into unfixed expression of genders and the deconstructive expression of methodology. The deconstructive expression of denim fashion is represented by using the damage of fabric by making a hole or tearing intentionally or fraying edge of denim. Also the unfinished designs and transformed dressing are used to express the deconstructive character in denim.

• 복식
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• 제21권
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• pp.193-206
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• 1993

Recently in the post-modernism era ethnic look tropical look or ecological look has prevailed as an important theme of fashion all over the world. The main core of these themes is based on primitivism. The purpose of this study was first to com-prehend the internal meaning and the exteral form of primitivism in modern fashion second to compare the characteristics of primitivism in art with those in modern fashion as one of the phenomena in cultural consistency. For this purpose documentary studies about primitivism in social science and art were preceded as a framework of this study and then objective studies about primitivism in modern fashion and art were analyzed. Primi-tivism expressed in clothing since the 16th century was also historically traced. the results were as follows: 1. Primitivism in modern fashion was summarized by emotionality play ecology and aboriginality as well as was represented by ex-ternal forms of open form part-to-whole re-lation planar intergration rounded form and indeterminate form It was demonstrated that the external form of primitivism in art and fashion is quite similar and is an example of cultural consistency. So it is reaffirmed that fashion is the production of culture representing zeitgeist as a genre of art. 2, Modernism in the early 20th century brought the richness of materials through the de-velopment of the mechanical culture emphasizing rationality as well as functionalism, Fashion also has been influenced by this modern-ism so it has tended to express only the beauty which emphasizes the functional aspects of clothing and excludes the decorative characters. The primitivism in recent fashion is against the flow of modernism. In a word the pursuit for the regression to nature and the recovering of hu-manity is the core of the primitivism in modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제31권
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• pp.189-202
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• 1997

Movie is one of the most popular culture ac-tivities in modern society and the composite rt of science and art born in the 20th century. Movie became the great source of setting the fashion. Especially movie costume brought into relief and was accepted by the mass. As a movie stimulates imitation psychology and identification of the general public in fashion. The purpose of this study is to analyze the effects of the movie costume to a modern mass fashion. The times was defined the movies from the early Silent era to the modern Hollywood movie from the late of 1910 to 1990. The way of study were to analyze on the changes and roles of movie costume through documentary records and the influence of set-ting the fashion to the mass fashion and classi-fied it five times-silent era classics neo-classics new look and modern times. The summary of result is as follows, 1, Movie costume affected the dress and the fashion of women is Silent era. That fashion was accelerated by actors' costumes in the mode of 1920. 2. Holloywood movies in the Classics show the essence of the fashion movie costume played a role of a fashion leader and commanded the trend of mass fashion. 3. Practical style was shown because of the war in the Neo-classics. Movie industry was prosperous after the war. But the consequences of the movie costume to the mass fashion were more and more weaken 4. Couture designer's costume had an effect on the mass fashion in the early of New look. But it was behind the fashion for the rise of young fashion. 5. The tastes of the fashion were diversified in Modern times. So the movie fashion was not imitated or popular. The costume of "Pret-a-porter" was used in the movies in the 1980. Spectators became to wear the same style of the actors. The times fashion and movie interacted each other. Movie costume is playing a role of a fashion leader guiding the mass fashion.s fashion.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.163-179
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• 2009

The superimposition of the Russian constructivist architectural design is one of the notable transforming techniques of conventional design principles. The main objective of this paper is to analyse the superimposed space in the modern fashion design based on the techniques and characteristics of superimposition appeared in Russian constructivism architectural space. The artistic characteristics of the superimposed design in the modern fashion design can be determined by codes of dynamics, sense of space, rhythmical sense, communications and tension of the dress. Through this study, it was found that superimposition of the Russian constructivist architectural design in the modern fashion design has influenced the modern fashion design space in the forms of dynamics with directive sense, vitality through transparency, uniformity with geometric interpenetrates, intensive visual attraction created by duplicity, communication between human body and clothes, creation of transformative beauty and enhancement of structural volume on clothes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.88-99
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• 1998

Image of Modern Art & Fashion are created on the whole in daily life. Image itself is not simple. There is no more distinction between content & form through mutual crossing for intellectual thinking. Specially, image of reproduction circumstance too many mixtual and compromise (collage) are continued to occur. They could pursuit to change their image through the more increase of impulse, exception and popular experience. In this thesis, I studied about image of Modern fashion & Art. In the modern art, visual image showed as anti-beauty and combination of cultural system. It has shown in the theory of Fred Davis and through fashion brand advertising image as follows; Youth vs maturity (ageless image), male s female and androgynous vs unisexuality (genderless image), colligation vs monopoly (street mode image). As a results, the modern trend image are showing the value of the ambivalence. It can be said that he anti-beauty which are occasionally showed in ambivalence has shown a tendency toward another tradition (feminity) through giving an impulse and paradox.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.703-716
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• 2010

The objective of the study is to analyze expressions of modern fashion in relation to design principle of a science theory, fractal geometry, in order to identify various and multi-layered expressions of fashion. As for methodology, the study interprets principle and characteristics of fractal geometry based on literature review in areas of linguistic, philosophy, sociology and science. The research identifies expressive characteristics of fractal through empirical studies, and applies them to fashion in order to analyze how fractal design principles are reflected in modern fashion in terms of form and significance. Fractal aesthetics pursue order, balance, diversity and openness among disorder and insecurity. They are closely related to the function of modern fashion that works as a multi-layered code, instead of being confined to conventional idea about fashion that "functions" as "wear."