• Water for future
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.39-48
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• 1993

Since major reason of disaster in coastal area is wave action, prediction of wave deformation is one of the most important problems to ocean engineers. Wave deformations are due to physical factors such as shoaling effect, reflection, diffraction, refraction, scattering and radiation etc. Recently, numerical models are widely utilized to calculate wave deformation. In this study, the mild slope equation was used in calculatin gwave deformation which considers diffraction and refraction. In order to slove the governing equation, finite element method is introduced. Even though this method has some difficulties, it is proved to predict the wave deformation accurately even in complicated boundary conditions. To verify the validity of the numerical calculation, experiments were carried out in a model harbour of rectangular shape which has mild slope bottom. The results by F.E.M. are compared with those of both Lee's method and the experiment. The results of these three methods show reasonable agreement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.117-126
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• 2009

In order to test the accuracy between the modified mild slope equation (MMSE) without evanescent modes and the plane-wave approximation (PA) of eigenfunction expansion method, various numerical results from both models are presented. In this study, analytical solutions of two models are employed, one based on the MMSE derived by Porter (2003) and the other on the scatterer method of PA by Seo (2008a). Judging from direct comparisons against existing results of rapidly varying topography, the PA model gives better predictions of the wave propagation than the MMSE model.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.22-26
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• 2002

In this paper, a finite element method is applied to the numerical calculation of the harbor calmness. The mild stop equation as the basic equation is used. The key of this model is that the bottom friction and boundary absorption are imposed. A numerical result is presented and compared with the results obtained from the other numerical analysis. These results are in very well agreement. This method calculating the calmness can be broadly utilized making the new design of harbor and fishing port in the future.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.845-854
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• 1998

Following the approach of Ebersole (1985), water wave transformation is predicted using the eikonal equation and transport equation for wave energy which are reduced from the extended mild-slope equation of Massel (1993), and also the irrotationality of wave number vectors. The higher-order bottom effect terms, i.e., squared bottom slope and bottom curvature, are neglected in the study of Ebersole but are included in the present study. It was expected that, if these terms are included in this study, the approach would give more accurate solution in the case of rapidly varying topography. But, the expectation was frustrated. It is probably because, in the case of rapidly varying topography, the diffraction effect which is included in the eikonal equation does not work well and thus the solution is deteriorated.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.32-37
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• 2003

In this paper, finite element method is applied for the numerical analysis of wave height distribution. The mild-slope equation is used as the basic equation. The key of this model is to impose the effect of nonlinear waves. Numerical results are presented and agreed well with the results from experimental measurements and other numerical analysis. The present method to determine wave height distribution can be broadly utilized for the analysis of new harbor and port designs in the future.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1995

A numerical shallow water wave deformation model to solve unsteady mild slope equation was develope(1. The energy equation of Izumiya and Horikawa(1984) for wave breaking and bottom friction was incorporated to estimate more realistically energy damping resulted from wave breaking and reflection. A numerical scheme for variable grid spacings was also introduced to complement the defect of unsteady mild slope equation limiting the grid spacings. This model was tested and compared with the existing analytic solutions and physical modelings, and applied to a practical situation.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 1999.10a
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• pp.235-242
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• 1999

Wave which propagate from the offshore cause transformation of diffraction, refraction, and reflection etc. in coming in the coastal by depth change. Especially, Wave strongly show the charcateristics of rancom wave in the coastal zone. Developed wave model until a recent date analysed regular waves with height and period equal to those of the significant wave, In case of Monochromatic wave, it can be analysed fine in the offshore, but differ from in coastal zone. In this study, form of governing equation is parabolic mild slope equation. This model calculated random wave for using frequency spectrum and directional spectrum from input data condition of wave. This model is applied to Vincent shoal and compared with laboratory experimental data. The results agreed well with laboratory data.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2006.09a
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• pp.69-72
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• 2006

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.308-320
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• 2006

An analytic solution to the mild-slope equation is derived for waves propagating over an axi-symmetric pit. The water depth inside the pit varies in proportion to a power of radial distance from the pit center. The governing equation is transformed into ordinary differential equations by using separation of variables, and the coefficients of the equations are transformed into explicit forms by using Hunt's (1979) approximate solution. Finally, by using the Frobenius series, the analytic solution is derived. Due to the feature of Hunt's equation, the present analytic solution is accurate in shallow and deep waters, while it is less accurate in intermediate depth water. The validity of the analytic solution is demonstrated by comparison with numerical solutions. The analytic solution is also used to examine the effects of pit geometry and relative depth on wave transformation.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.117-121
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• 2001

For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.