• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.45-57
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• 2022

This study aims to analyze the macramé technique used in costume design based on the cases from 2011 to 2020, when the macramé technique became popular. The research data are the results of analyzing the materials, clothing items, and structural combination of macramé knots by season, year, and collection from 2011 S/S to 2020 F/W, focusing on the four major fashion collections New York, Paris, London, and Milan. Macramé appeared often in the S/S season, and in the 2019 and 2020 S/S seasons, macramé was identified as a keyword for fashion trends based on its frequent usage. Overhand knots were used the most for the types of macramé knots used in costumes, and overhand knots were also used the most in the S/S season and in the New York, Paris, and Milan collections. Rope was the most frequently used material for macramé knots, and it was confirmed that it appeared frequently in 2011 and 2019, and ropes were also used often in the London, Milan, and Paris collections. One-piece appeared the most in the S/S season and F/W season as costume items. In addition, the costumes used as layers in the S/S season appeared most often, and in 2019 and 2020, the layered combination appeared most frequently in London and New York collections. It is judged that macramé appears repeatedly in the S/S season depending on the type of knot and is used as a layered look, making it a decorative element rather than a practical element. This study is expected to help develop modern fashion design by drawing attention to the value of the macramé technique expressed as handcrafted work.

• 복식
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• 제67권3호
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• pp.31-46
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.62-77
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze color characteristics centered by women's suit styles that represent masculinity remarkably. Through this, it figures out color's type and continuance availability as a representing tool to express masculinity to provide useful color information which can be applied effectively to various color planning. For this research, related images were collected among women's pants suits appeared in $2004{\sim}2006's$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection F/W that are most similar to modern man's suit. Among them, the study analyzes 319 pictures where the features of masculinity were represented effectively. The referred color values were earned by converting $L^*a^*b^*$ values measured through the color extracting tool of Computer program (Adobe Photoshop CS) and color tone characteristic were analyzed by classifying 12 color PCCS and 5 achromatic colors. The result of the study are as follows: First, based on standard of color hue and tone, in terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y were frequently shown up but G, BG series were not found much after analyzing overall women's pants suit color characteristics shown in $2004{\sim}2006$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection. Second, the color analysis about 3years of $2004{\sim}2006$ tells that achromatic colors have been most widely used in every year. In terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y series were appeared most popular and G, BG classes weren't appeared frequently. In addition, once looking at yearly color tone distribution trend, like overall color tone distribution result, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were highly used as sequential and b, v, dp, sf, ItGy series show low distribution level. And such a distribution level of low and high in frequency has been showed continuously as a similar style. Accordingly, through the study, as a tool to express masculinity in women's suit, achromatic colors like black and white series and PB, YR, Y series color were investigated as most popular uses. And as color tones, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were used frequently.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.109-119
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine fashion trends and the direction of the four fashion collections by analyzing the design key-words of the four major international fashion collections in 2018. The data of this study was collected by extracting the key-words from Marie Claire Korea in 2018, with the total of the collected data numbering 2,144. The data was analyzed by text mining using the R program and word-cloud, and a co-occurrence network analysis was conducted. The results of this study are as follows: First, the key-words of fashion collection designs in 2018 were fringe and ruffle detail, silk and denim fabric, vivid color, stripe and check pattern, pants suit item, and oversized silhouette, focusing on romanticism and sport. Second, seasonal characteristics of the fashion collections were pastel colors in S/S, primary and vivid colors in F/W. Details were embroidery and cutouts in S/S, patchwork and fringe in F/W. Third, the design trends of the four major fashion collections were presented in the Paris collection: stripes, check patterns, embroidery, lace, tailoring, draping, romanticism, and glamor. In the Milan collection, checks, prints, denim, and minidresses reflected sport and romanticism. The London collection included fringe, ruffles, floral patterns, flower patterns, and romanticism. The New York collections included vivid colors, neon colors, pastel colors, oversize silhouettes, bodysuits, and long dresses.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.117-130
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• 2010

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of contrast color coordination through the analysis of modern woman fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections' from '04 SS to '09/'10 AW. Data collection of 122 was done through review of '$pr{\hat{e}}t$-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Statistical analysis of frequency and qualitative interpretation of contrast color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were as follows; (1) The combined color type of 'red+blue' and 'yellow+blue' were the most frequently appeared in the same ratio, and followed by 'green+violet', 'red+yellow', 'green+orange', and 'orange+violet'. The contrast tone showed the most, and followed by the similarity and identity, and the type of tone harmony used differently according to the type of contrasting color combination. (2) The general characteristics of contrasting color harmony were as follows,; Some contrasting colors looked harmonious when used light colors and the contrast between light and dull colors which made the hues even more harmonious. Also combinations of dull colors which work well with other dull colors or vivid colors. Light & vivid color or light & dark color, however, often showed too much contrast and using two contrasting vivid colors presented awkward and restless look. When used one vivid color and one dark color, a little easier to looked at, but still not particularly elegance or effectively harmonious. (3) The types of contrasting color harmony showed some differences between seasons. Contrasting color harmony showed more frequently in the S/S collections than in A/W collections.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.94-110
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• 2008

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of separation color coordination of contemporary female fashion through the analysis of 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i. e. cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2004 S/S to 2008/9 A/W. The data collection of 265 was done by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 265 observations were made. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of separation color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; (1) In separation color coordination of contemporary women's fashion collections, there were three main types of color scheme which were classified into seven detailed categories of color combination. First was the achromatic color & one chromatic separation color scheme which was classified into four categories of - black & white, black & grey, white & grey, and grey & grey - color combination. Second was the chromatic colors & one achromatic separation color scheme which classified into two categories of achromatic & chromatic color & one achromatic separation color combination, and chromatic colors & one achromatic separation color combination. Third was chromatic colors and one chromatic separation color combination. (2) The achromatic colors and one chromatic separation color scheme showed two phases of reinforcing the strong and modern image, or softening the hard and dull image of achromatic color combination. In color schemes which used more than two chromatic colors, the separation color frequently converted the tedious and monotonous fashion image, which caused by identical or similarity in color or tone harmony, into more attractive and interesting. (3) In conclusion, through the various use and coordination of various color schemes, color harmony and separation colors, the separation color coordination in contemporary female fashion has been suggested the effective way of color combination which can lead the visual pleasure and the vitality along with the unity and the harmony. This characteristics can create various images and visual diversity for fashion. The types and the use of color scheme and separation color showed different trends in four collections.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.145-162
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• 2019

This study reviewed photos of women's jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women's jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women's jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권5호
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• pp.444-454
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• 2001

The purpose of this paper was to identify and compare the underlying design theory of contemporary European and Japanese fashion designers by using the qualitative research method of grounded theory developed by Glaser and Strauss (1967) and Glaser (1978). In this research, four fashion sites-Paris, Milan, London and Tokyo-were selected. The researcher stayed in each site for a period of two to three weeks for the purpose of data collection. A total of 60 fashion designers, educators, students and journalists were interviewed. 53 open-ended design questionnaires were returned by fashion designers and students. 19 on-site observations of fashion designers and educators were done. Grounded theories of fashion designers were synthesized from in-depth interviews, participant observations and questionnaire surveys of fashion designers, students and educators. The results of theory-building research suggested that there were significant differences between the grounded design theories of European and Japanese fashion designers due to their various cultural contexts.

• 복식
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• 제66권2호
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• pp.90-102
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• 2016

The purpose of this research was to give the basic educational sources that could nurture creative fashion designers for the creative advancement of the fashion industry. After investigating and categorizing the ideation behind designer collections in four fashion capitals - Paris, London, Milan and New York, the materialization of concepts was analyzed in relation to inspiration and design elements. As a result, design inspiration was classified into figures, artworks and art trends, historicity of fashion, regional features, natural objects, artificial objects, abstract concepts, clothing for specific occasions, events, and others. This study found that inspiration for fashion design comes from various fields, and that creative design skills can be nurtured through ideation training using a wide variety of subjects.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.125-136
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• 2009

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of complementary color scheme through the analysis of contemporary women's fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections'. Data collection of 115 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of characteristics of complementary color harmony characteristics which appeared in four collections were completed. The main findings were as followed; (1) Only 115 complementary color schemes out of 4968 two color combinations appeared. Compared the comparative ratios of appearance frequency between the two color combination and the complementary color harmony, London showed the highest, and followed by New York, and Milan and Paris. (2)The combined color type of 'red+green' was the most frequently appeared, and followed by 'violet+yellow' and 'orange+blue'. For the type of tone harmony, the contrast tone showed the most, and followed by the similarity and identity. According to the type of complementary color combination, the type of tone harmony used differently. Some differences showed in the types of color harmony and tone harmony between collections. (3) The complementary color scheme which shown in four collections harmonized two opposite colors mainly through the strong tone contrast and this could cause tension along with interest in the image. The complementary colors intensified and brought out the attributes each other. More details, high contrast of two complementary colors of yellow and violet created a vibrant look especially when used at higher saturation. Sometimes, however, some tone variations of two hues neutralized the strong effect and sometimes enhanced each other. When they used in similarity tones or identity tones in light colors, the tension was reduced and became softened but still presented nice harmony. In the type of 'red+green' color harmony, the various color combinations were demonstrated, mostly through tone manipulation of green color. The similarity tone harmony, which used the most, could effect a better sense of harmony and present more sophisticated looks. When used in contrast tone harmony, some changes in its own color which have only one color of two the excessive intensity led a good harmony. The 'orange+blue' color harmony was shown the least and used three tone harmony almost the same ratio. In this color harmony, blue amplified its energy and brilliance of orange and seemed to work better when one color was at a lower intensity than the other. In harmony with a similarity and an identity tone, this color harmony produces a stable and calm image. (4) The complementary scheme appeared more frequently in the S/S collections than in A/W collections and showed some differences in the types of color harmony and tone harmony between seasons, however, no big differences between collections.