• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.341-352
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• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.36 no.4 s.143
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• pp.273-277
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• 2005

In mammalian melanocytes, melanin synthesis is controlled by tyrosinase, the key enzyme in the pigment synthesis. In this study, to develop a new whitening agent, we have investigated the antioxidant and the inhibitory effect of Artemisia anomala extract on tyrosinase activity and melanigenesis in the B16/F1 melanoma cells. The inhibition ratio of tyrosinase activity of butanol fraction from A. anomala was higher than that of arbutin ($97.5{\pm}0.5%$ at the concentration of 2 mg/ml). The butanol fraction was shown scavenging activities of 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals and superoxide anion radicals in a dose dependent manner. The highest inhibitory activity of melanogenesis was also butanol fraction ($25.0{\pm}3%$ at the concentration of $200\;{\mu}g/ml$). From these results, we suggest that the A. anomala extract might be used to be a potential agent for skin whitening.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.712-716
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• 2011

We investigated changes in the extraction yield and whitening activity of polysaccharides from Undaria pinnatifida sporophyll due to gamma irradiation. U. pinnatifida sporophyll was gamma-irradiated at doses of 10, 30, 50, 70, and 100 kGy, then extracted with hot water and precipitated with ethanol to extract polysaccharides. Crude polysaccharide yields increased with an increase in irradiation dosage, but tyrosinase inhibition activity did not change. Melanin synthesis did not significantly differ between B16BL6 cells treated with irradiated and non-irradiated samples. In conclusion, gamma irradiation increased the crude polysaccharide extraction yield but did not change the whitening activity of U. pinnatifida sporophyll. This implies that gamma irradiation can be used to increase yields in the cosmetic industry, thus increasing profits.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.391-398
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• 2019

The antioxidant, whitening, and anti-wrinkle activity of Spirodela polyrhiza extracts and fractions were evaluated to determine its efficacy as a functional cosmetic material. 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl and 2,2'-azinobis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid radical scavenging activities were 44.2 and 74.3%, respectively, at 100 ㎍/mL of SE-E (the ethyl acetate fraction of 70% ethanol extract). To measure anti-wrinkle effects, procollagen biosynthesis and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibition activity were determined. At 25 ㎍/mL of SE (70% ethanol extract), the biosynthesis activity was 48.5%, and SE-E showed the best activity (57.8%) at the same concentration. MMP-1 inhibition activity of SE and SE-E was 13.4 and 28.5%, respectively, at 25 ig/mL. Finally, the inhibition of cellular melanin synthesis and cellular tyrosinase were measured to determine the whitening effect; at 25 ㎍/mL, the inhibition activities of SE were 9.6 and 13.8%, respectively, and those for SE-E were 15.4 and 22.0%, respectively. Our results confirmed the possibility of SE and SE-E as effective functional materials. Further research investigating the antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer activities of S. polyrhiza is necessary to confirm its potential use in the food, cosmetics, and drug industries.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.654-661
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• 2021

In this study, in order to isolate excellent whitening agents from fungal cultural broth, various fungi were collected from wild areas in South Korea and then screened for tyrosinase inhibition activity, as tyrosinase is a precursor for the biosynthesis of melanin in regulating skin color. A fungus strain that inhibits tyrosinase activity has been identified and confirmed as Trichoderma viridescens (later renamed T. viridescens SW-1) via ITS sequencing. In T. viridescens SW-1, tyrosinase inhibitory activity was strongest on day three of culture. A 5% culture broth showed a tyrosinase inhibitory activity greater than 90% and exhibited high thermostability on day three. At 10% culture broth, the accumulations of intra- and extracellular melanin were inhibited above 27.1% and 7.5%, respectively. In summary, the physical and functional properties of the tyrosinase inhibitory substances of T. viridescens SW-1 included high levels of inhibition of melanin synthesis and antioxidative activity as well as thermostability. Therefore, we suggest that the whitening substance identified from the cultural broth of T. viridescens SW-1 has potential for application as a functional cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of Nutrition and Health
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.121-128
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• 2020

Purpose: The Rubus coreanus fruit (RF) is an important traditional medicinal herb having antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunoregulatory properties. These activities are known to change dramatically, depending on maturity of the RF. It is presumed that change of functional components, such as flavonoids, tannins, phenolic acids, triterpenoids and organic acids in RF, affect the various bioactivities. This study aimed to confirm changes in the anti-melanogenic effects of RF based on maturity, and to identify the bioactive compounds responsible. Methods: The cell viability of mature RF (MRF) and immature RF (IRF) extracts was investigated using B16F10 cells. To compare the anti-melanogenic effect of MRF and IRF extracts, we first assessed the melanin content. High-performance liquid chromatography analysis was performed to evaluate changes in the level of ellagic acid according to maturity of the RF. In addition, tyrosinase inhibitory activity of both extracts was examined. Results: MRF and IRF extracts (50-200 ㎍/mL) do not affect the cell viability of B16F10 melanoma cells. IRF extract more effectively inhibited melanin synthesis than MRF extract. The content of ellagic acid in IRF extract was higher than that obtained in MRF extract. Furthermore, greater inhibition of tyrosinase activity was observed after exposure to IRF extract than MRF extract. A positive correlation was determined between ellagic acid content and tyrosinase inhibitory activity, and a negative correlation was obtained between ellagic acid content and melanin content. Taken together, our results indicate that ellagic acid is one of the major bioactive compounds of RF that imparts a whitening effect. Conclusion: Our results indicate that ellagic acid in MRF and IRF extracts affect the anti-melanogenesis effect through inhibition of tyrosinase activity. Therefore, the ellagic acid rich IRF has greater potential for application as a natural and functional cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.35-41
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• 2017

Melanin synthesis inhibition activities were investigated for the extracts prepared from the leaves of Carpinus turczaninowii (C. turczaninowii) by using B16F10 melanoma cells. As a result, the ethanol extract ($100{\mu}g/mL$) showed 72.2% inhibition activities without cell toxicities in MTT assays. For the solvent fractions (n-hexane, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, water), the most potent activities were observed at the ethyl acetate fraction. To isolate the active constituents, the ethyl acetate fraction was further purified to afford four compounds; ethyl gallate (1), quercetin rhamnose (2), kaempferol rhamnose (3) and quercetin galloylrhamnose (4). The identification of the isolates was made by spectroscopic data including NMR spectra, and all of the compounds 1-4 were isolated for the first time from the leaves of C. turczaninowii. Anti-melanogenesis activities were studied for the isolates 1-4, and the compound 4 was determined to decrease the melanin synthesis dose-dependently without causing cell toxicities. ELISA measurement indicated that the isolate 4 decreased the contents of cell tyrosinase, a critical enzyme in melanogenesis. Based on these results, the extracts of C. turczaninowii were found to be applicable as whitening ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.101-107
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• 2008

In order to investigate the potential of a Angelica keiskei Koidzumi extract and its fractions as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics, we prepared Angelica keiskei Koidzumi extract(70% ethanol), and the aqueous suspension was successively extracted with hexane, ethyl acetate(EA), and n-butanol fraction. We measured their inhibitory effects on mushroom tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells and normal human kerationocytes in vitro. They did not show inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase and the melanin synthesis except hexane and EA fractions. Hexane and EA fractions markedly inhibited cellular tyrosinase activity at a lower concentration(25 and 5 ${\mu}g/mL$, respectively) than arbutin(250 ${\mu}g/mL$). We also quantified the released amount of endothelin-1(ET-1), a mitogen of melanocyte, and interleukin-$1{\alpha}$(IL-$1{\alpha})$, a mediator of UVB-induced inflammation. Hexane and EA fractions did not affect IL-$1{\alpha}$ production, but they decreased UVB-induced ET-1 production in normal human keratinocytes in a dose dependant manner. As a result, hexane and EA fractions could inhibit the melanogenesis through the inhibition of UVB-induced ET-1 production in normal human keratinocytes. This result suggests that hexane and EA fractions of Angelica keiskei Koidzumi extract could be used as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

• Nutrition Research and Practice
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.173-179
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• 2017

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES: Gastrodia elata Blume (GEB), a traditional herbal medicine, has been used to treat a wide range of neurological disorders (e.g., paralysis and stroke) and skin problems (e.g., atopic dermatitis and eczema) in oriental medicine. This study was designed to investigate whether GEB extract inhibits melanogenesis activity in murine B16F10 melanoma. MATERIALS/METHOD: Murine B16F10 cells were treated with 0-5 mg/mL of GEB extract or $400{\mu}g/mL$ arbutin (a positive control) for 72 h after treatment with/without 200 nM alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH) for 24 h. Melanin concentration, tyrosinase activity, mRNA levels, and protein expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (Trp)1, and Trp2 were analyzed in ${\alpha}$-MSH-untreated and ${\alpha}$-MSH-treated B16F10 cells. RESULTS: Treatment with 200 nM ${\alpha}$-MSH induced almost 2-fold melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity along with increased mRNA levels and protein expression of MITF, tyrosinase, Trp1 and Trp2. Irrespective of ${\alpha}$-MSH stimulation, GEB extract at doses of 0.5-5 mg/mL inhibited all these markers for skin whitening in a dose-dependent manner. While lower doses (0.5-1 mg/mL) of GEB extract generally had a tendency to decrease melanogenesis, tyrosinase activity, and mRNA levels and protein expression of MITF, tyrosinase, Trp1, and Trp2, higher doses (2-5 mg/mL) significantly inhibited all these markers in ${\alpha}$-MSH-treated B16F10 cells in a dose-dependent manner. These inhibitory effects of the GEB extract at higher concentrations were similar to those of $400{\mu}g/mL$ arbutin, a well-known depigmenting agent. CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that GEB displays dose-dependent inhibition of melanin synthesis through the suppression of tyrosinase activity as well as molecular levels of MITF, tyrosinase, Trp1, and Trp2 in murine B16F10 melanoma. Therefore, GEB may be an effective and natural skin-whitening agent for application in the cosmetic industry.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.59-65
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• 2016

This study was carried out to investigate the total polyphenols, antioxidant activities, and melanin synthesis inhibition of several pear cultivars (Pyruspyrifolia). The total polypenolic content of five pear cultivars was high in the unripe developmental stage. Total polyphenolic content of the Chuwhangbae cultivar extract was higher than that of other pear cultivars regardless of the developmental stage. However, the total flavonoid content did not differ between cultivars or developmental stages. The phenolic compound, arbutin has an inhibitory effect on melanogenesis. Arbutin levels in pear cultivars declined as the fruit matured. The free radical scavenging activity of the extract also decreased as the fruit ripened. In B16F10 mouse melanoma cells, most of the cultivar extracts inhibited melanin synthesis by about 50% at a $100{\mu}g{\cdot}mL^{-1}$ concentration, except in the Gamcheonbae extract until 90 days after full bloom. We have confirmed that the extract of pear cultivars have antioxidant activity and skin-whitening effects.