• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.415-422
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• 2009

The wave observation system in Korea has been established with an emphasis on pointmeasurement based on in situ instrumentations. However, the system cannot fully investigate the coastal wave-related problems that are significantly localized and intensified with three-dimensional regional geometries. Observation technique that can cover local processes with large time and spatial variation needs to be established. Video imaging techniques that can provide continuous monitoring of coastal waves and related phenomena with high spatial and temporal resolutions at minimum cost of instrumentation risks are reviewed together with present status of implementation in Korea. Practical applications of the video imaging techniques are suggested to tackle with various coastal issues of public concern in Korea including, real-time monitoring of wave runup and overtopping of swells on the east coast of Korea, longshore and rip currents, morphological and bathymetric changes, storm surge and tsunami inundation, and abnormal extreme waves in the west coast of Korea, etc.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.203-210
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• 2018

It is generally known that submerged breakwaters can reduce the incoming wave energy without disturbing the beach scenery. However, a submerged breakwater is also able to cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area which is also called as water piling-up. Since the piling-up can result in longshore currents, sediment transports, and unexpected beach erosion, understanding about the piling-up process is required prior to designing the nearshore structures. In this study, the water piling-up behind a submerged breakwater is assessed in the time of storm events. For the study area, Anmok beach in Gyeonso-dong, Gangwon-do is selected. 1-year, 5-year, 10-year, and 50-year return-values were derived from Peaks-Over-Threshold(POT) method and those are applied as offshore boundary conditions for the numerical simulation. The numerical results of the piling-up were assessed with regard to the wave steepness and the height of the submerged breakwater. With increase of both significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater, the piling-up parameter is also increased which can lead to erosion of dry beach behind the structure.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.4B
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• pp.243-251
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• 2012

To investigate the characteristics of rip current occurring at Haeundae beach, observations obtained from a buoy and a CCTV were analyzed and numerical experiments were conducted. During observed rip-current events, the CCTV images showed that a couple of wave-trains, which are close to regular waves with slightly different directions, propagated to the beach, and wavelet analyses of data from the buoy showed very narrow-banded spectra with a peak frequency. From the evidences, it was inferred that a known mechanism of generating rip current due to the nodal line area of honeycomb-patterned wave crest was one of the significant factors of rip current occurrences of Haeundae beach. The mechanism has been explained by the following: When two wave-trains with slightly different directions propagate to a beach, wave crests of the incident wave-trains form honeycomb pattern due to nonlinear interaction. The nodal lines of honeycomb pattern are developed in the cross-shore direction. And longshore currents flow toward the nodal line area which has very low wave energy. Consequently their mass flux is expelled through the area toward the sea direction. To confirm the generation, numerical experiments were performed using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. In the cases with two incident wave-trains with slightly different directions and with a monochromatic wave propagating over a submerged shoal, it was seen that the honeycomb pattern of wave crests was well developed, and thus rip currents were evolved along the nodal lines.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.28 no.7
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• pp.914-924
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• 2007

This study is to compare differences in the depositional environments of natural beaches with those of beaches developed with artificial structures in the East Coast of Korea. Naksan-Osan beaches were selected for the examination of natural beaches and Anmok-Yumjun beaches for that of developed beaches. The study was performed on the foreshores and backshores of the selected beaches, and was based on the field research during the flood period of year 2004 and the dry period of year 2005. In Naksan-Osan beaches, pain size is fuel and sorting is better from northern coast to southern coast. Furthermore, sediment undergoes changes regularly and seasonal variations are small. But in Anmok-Yumjun beaches, grain size is coarser and sorting is worse than in Naksan-Osan beaches, showing irregular tendencies. The characteristic features of the two beaches would be effected by longshore currents which change along the type of coast line and have an effect on sediment. Especially, long shore currents interrupted by artificial structures in Anmok-Yumjun beaches may cause sedimental environment changes. In Anmok-Yumjun beaches, harbor expansions will be continued, and thus more changes are expected to occur in the beaches.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.307-320
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• 2021

Udo Rhodolith Beach is a small-scale, mixed sand-and-gravel beach embayed on the N-S trending rocky coast of Udo, Jeju Island, South Korea. This study analyzes the short-term topographic changes of the beach during the extreme storm conditions of four typhoons from 2016 to 2020: Chaba (2016), Soulik (2018), Lingling (2019), and Maysak (2020). The analysis uses the topographic data of terrestrial LiDAR scanning and drone photogrammetry, aided by weather and oceanographic datasets of wind, wave, current and tide. The analysis suggests two contrasting features of alongshore topographic change depending on the typhoon pathway, although the intensity and duration of the storm conditions differed in each case. During the Soulik and Lingling events, which moved northward following the western sea of the Jeju Island, the northern part of the beach accreted while the southern part eroded. In contrast, the Chaba and Maysak events passed over the eastern sea of Jeju Island. The central part of the beach was then significantly eroded while sediments accumulated mainly at the northern and southern ends of the beach. Based on the wave and current measurements in the nearshore zone and computer simulations of the wave field, it was inferred that the observed topographic change of the beach after the storm events is related to the directions of the wind-driven current and wave propagation in the nearshore zone. The dominant direction of water movement was southeastward and northeastward when the typhoon pathway lay to the east or west of Jeju Island, respectively. As these enhanced waves and currents approached obliquely to the N-S trending coastline, the beach sediments were reworked and transported southward or northward mainly by longshore currents, which likely acts as a major control mechanism regarding alongshore topographic change with respect to Udo Rhodolith Beach. In contrast to the topographic change, the subaerial volume of the beach overall increased after all storms except for Maysak. The volume increase was attributed to the enhanced transport of onshore sediment under the combined effect of storm-induced long periodic waves and a strong residual component of the near-bottom current. In the Maysak event, the raised sea level during the spring tide probably enhanced the backshore erosion by storm waves, eventually causing sediment loss to the inland area.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2009.06a
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• pp.452-455
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• 2009

The Nakdong Delta can be identified by two different geomorphic units. The first one is the upper delta. This is mostly composed of inter-distributary islands that are largely influenced by fluvial processes and attributed to the development of these islands along the river. The other one is the lower delta which is mostly composed of beach ridges. Barrier islands are largely effected by wave processes promoted by the development almost at a right angle to the river. Influenced by the longshore current which flows to the same direction, barrier islands located in the Nakdong river estuary are developing from east to west direction. As a result, the eastern end of the barrier islands are growing toward the north-west direction effected by tidal current which moves toward the same direction. Barrier islands include the Sinho Island, the Jinwoo Island, the Daema deung, the Janga Island, the Baghap deung, the Sae deung, and the Chulsae deung(Doyeo deung). They have orderly emerged from the sea since 1861. Since 2008, a new Deung, a sand dune growing under sea, has been developing rapidly from Chulsae deung to the Dadaepo beach. It made the sailing of small fisher boats impossible. Tidal currents transported a lot of sand and silt around the barrier islands. The landscape of Nakdong river estuary where many barrier islands are distributed will change rapidly affecting land environment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.384-395
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• 2020

Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions, such as sediment transport, longshore currents, and shock wave pressure. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker index such as breaking wave height and breaking depth, when designing coastal structures. Numerous scientific efforts have been made in the past by many researchers to identify and predict the breaking phenomenon. Representative studies on wave breaking provide many empirical formulas for the prediction of breaking index, mainly through hydraulic model experiments. However, the existing empirical formulas for breaking index determine the coefficients of the assumed equation through statistical analysis of data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this paper, we applied a representative linear-based supervised machine learning algorithms that show high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification problems. Based on the used machine learning methods, a model for prediction of the breaking index is developed from previously published experimental data on the breaking wave, and a new linear equation for prediction of breaker index is presented from the trained model. The newly proposed breaker index formula showed similar predictive performance compared to the existing empirical formula, although it was a simple linear equation.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.480-492
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• 1995

Petrographic investigation has been carried out to determine the composition of the beach sediments and the affecting factors which have controlled their compositional variations from Hyupjae, Aeweol, Iho, Samyang, Hamdeok, Sehwa, Pyoseon, Jungmun, and Hwasun areas along the coast of the Cheju Island. Average mean sizes of the beach sediments are Hyupjae 2.2ø, Aeweol 0.8ø, Iho 1.4ø, Samyang 2.4ø, Hamdeok 1.6ø, Sehwa 1.5ø, Pyoseon 2.1ø, Jungmun 0.4ø, and Hwasun 0.9ø, thus, aries from 0.4 to 2.4ø. The beach sediments from Pyoseon and Hwasun areas are poorly sorted, those from Aeweol and Jungmun areas are moderately sorted and those from the rest of the areas are moderately well sorted. While-colored beach sediments in Hyupjae, Aeweol, Hamdeok, Sehwa, and Pyoseon areas are mostly composed of calcareous shells (more than 85%) such as mollusk, red algae, benthic foraminiferas, etc., whereas volcanic rock fragment is the dominant component of the black-colored beach sediments in Iho, Samyang, and Hwasun areas. Especially, the relatively white-colored beach sediment in Jungmun area, which is on e of the carbonate-dominant areas, shows a higher content of rock fragments than the other carbonate-dominant areas. The beach sediments in Pyoseon area show a high content of carbonate intercalates. Considering the contributions by organisms according to grain size, grains with the size range of 1∼2ø are mostly composed of calcareous red algae fragments, and grains with the size range of 2∼3ø consist of mollusk fragments. It is also notable that bryozoan fragments comprise about 48% of the sediment in Samyang area with the size range of 0∼1ø. The composition of the beach sediments in Cheju Island appears o be controlled by the riverine supply rate of volcanic rock fragments, the lithology of the rocks distributed ear the beaches, the direction of alongshore currents, and the direction of storms, etc.. It is suggested that the beach sediments in Iho and Samyang areas show black color because of the higher supply rate of the volcanic rock fragments from the nearby rivers, whereas those in the rest of the areas show white color due to the relatively lower content of volcanic rock fragments and higher content of carbonate components transported from shallow marine environment. In Hwasun area, the content of volcanic rock fragments is high, and they are directly from the tuffaceous rocks distributed nearby. Also, the volcanic rock fragments in Jungmun area are transported not only from the rivers nearby but also from the nearby tuffs by storm activities. The beach sediment in Pyoseon area contains a high content of carbonate intercalates, which formed in the nearby shallow marine environment through marine cementation. This indicates that active marine cementation occurs in shallow marine environment near Pyoseon area.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.449-460
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• 2006

This study aims to analyze distribution of natural lakes including lagoonal lake(lagoon) and tributary dammed lake(tributary lake) and calculate the size, morphology in order to interpret time-serial change of lakes using methodology of remote sensing images(1990s), GIS and topographic maps(1920s) in east coast of Korean Peninsular. Analysis results show that in 1990s, there are 57 natural lakes, with the total size of $75.62km^2$ over size $0.01km^2$. marine-origin lagoons are 48 with total size of $64.85km^2$, composing 85% of total natural lake, and the largest lagoon is Beonpo in Raseon City. Tributary lakes have been formed by damming of tributary channels by fluvial sand bars from main stream, located nearby at coastal zone, similar to lagoon sites. Large tributary lake, Jangyeonho, is developed in lava plateau dissection valley of Eorang Gun, Hamnam Province. There are more distributed at Duman River mouth$\sim$Cheongjin City, Heungnam City$\sim$Hodo Peninsular and Anbyeon Gun$\sim$Gangreung City. Geomorphometrically, correlation of size to circumference is very high, but correlation of size to shape irregularity is very low. The direction of lagoonal coast, NW-SE and NE-SW are predominated due to direction of tectonic structure and longshore currents. The length of the river into lake are generally short, maximum under 15km, and lake size is smaller, degree of size decreasing is higher. Geomorphic patterns of the lake location are classified as coast-hill range, coastal plain, coastal plain-channel valley, coastal plain-hill range and channel valley-hill range. During from 1920s to 1990s, change with lake size decreasing is highest at coastal plain-channel valley, next is coastal plain. Causes of the size decreasing are fluvial deposition from upper rivers and human impacts such as reclamation.