• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• v.28 no.1_2
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• pp.383-395
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• 2010

In the present paper, we construct the traveling wave solutions involving parameters of nonlinear evolution equations in the mathematical physics via the (3+1)- dimensional potential- YTSF equation, the (3+1)- dimensional generalized shallow water equation, the (3+1)- dimensional Kadomtsev- Petviashvili equation, the (3+1)- dimensional modified KdV-Zakharov- Kuznetsev equation and the (3+1)- dimensional Jimbo-Miwa equation by using a simple method which is called the ($\frac{G'}{G}$)- expansion method, where $G\;=\;G(\xi)$ satisfies a second order linear ordinary differential equation. When the parameters are taken special values, the solitary waves are derived from the travelling waves. The travelling wave solutions are expressed by hyperbolic, trigonometric and rational functions.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.02a
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• pp.431-434
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• 2008

Pratical dispersion-correction scheme is applicated to simulate the distant propagation of tsunami. This scheme is based on the leap-frog finite difference scheme for the linear shallow-water equations. The new scheme has the advantage of using the constant spatial grid size and time step size even in area of variable depths. And this new model constructed by using the 2nd upwind scheme, dynamic linking method, and staggered grid system. This model is simulated to near Sokcho harbor about The Central East Sea Tsunami in 1983. And this result is compared to tide gage and result of former model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.281-289
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• 1994

An equation set of nonlinear model for regular/irregular waves presented in this study can be applied to waves travelling from deep water to shallow water, which is different from the Boussinesq equations. The presented equations completely satisfy the linear dispersion relationship and when expanded, they are proven to be consistent with the Boussinesq equation of several types. In addition, the position of averaged velocity below the still water level is estimated based on the linear wave theory.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.68-76
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• 2013

In this study, a 3D numerical model was used to predict nonlinear wave forces on a cylindrical pile installed in a shallow water region. The model was based on solving the viscous and incompressible Navier-Stokes equations for a two-phase flow (water and air) model and the volume of fluid method for treating the free surface of water. A new application was developed based on the cut-cell method to allow easy installation of complicated obstacles (e.g., bottom geometry and cylindrical pile) in a computational domain. Free-surface elevation, water particle velocities, and inline wave forces were calculated, and the results show good agreement with experimental data obtained by the Danish Hydraulic Institute. The simulation results revealed that the proposed model can, without the use of empirical formulas (i.e., Morison equation) and additional wave analysis models, reliably predict non-linear wave forces on an offshore wind turbine foundation installed in a shallow water region.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.212-220
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• 1993

A numerical model for the transformation of irregular waves in a coastal area is developed, which takes account of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, bottom friction and wave breaking. The governing equations are the usual energy conservation equation and kinematic conservation equations, but to consider the diffraction effects additional terms are included in the usual kinematic conservation or wave number equations. A linear superposition technique is used to represent the spectral formation. and an explicit formula is developed for the estimation of friction factor of irregular waves. A breaking criterion of component waves, which is the modified form of the Kitaigorodskii saturation relation, is employed to restrict the growth of shoaling waves in very shallow waters. The model was applied to a laboratory test and satisfactory agreement was obtained between the computation and measurement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.389-396
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• 1994

We analyze existing time-dependent mild-slope equations, which were developed by Smith and Sprinks (1975) (or, equivalently, Radder and Dingemans (1985)) and Kubo et al. (1992), in terms of the dispersion relation and energy transport. One-dimensionally in the horizontal direction, we compare the modulation of wave amplitudes for the time-dependent mild-slope equations against the linear Scrodinger equation. In view of the dispersion relation and modulation of wave amplitudes, Smith and Sprinks' model is more accurate in shallower water (kh$\leq$0.2$\pi$) and satisfies the linear Scrodinger equation in very shallow water (kh>0.2$\pi$) and satisfies the linear Scrodinger equation at a point of intermediate water depth (kh=0.3$\pi$). In view of the energy transport, Kubo et al.'s model is more accurate but yields singular solutions at some higher frequency range.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.44 no.10
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• pp.819-830
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• 2011

The multi-slope MUSCL, proposed by T. Buffard and S. Clain, determines slopes of conserved variables at each edge of a cell in the linear reconstructions of data. In this study, the second order accurate numerical model was developed according to the multi-slope MUSCL to solve the shallow water equations on the unstructured grids. The HLLL scheme of approximate Riemann solvers was used to calculate fluxes. For the review of the applicability of the developed model, the results of the model were compared to the 'isolated building test' and the 'model city flooding experiment' conducted as part of the IMPACT (Investigation of extreMe flood Processes And unCerTainty) project in Europe. There were limitations to predict abrupt rising of water depths by the resistance of model buildings and water depths at the specific locations among the buildings. But they were identified as the same problems also revealed in results of the other models to the same experiment. On the more refined meshes to the 'model city flooding experiment' simulated results showed good agreement with measurements. It was verified that the developed model simulated well the complex phenomena such as a dam-break problem and the urban inundation by flash floods.

• Water for future
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.67-73
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• 1985

Tidal propagation in the Keum River has been routinely handled by numerical integration of the long fravity wave equation by Dronkers. The dynamic equations include non-linear terms thereby reproducing the shallow water tides. The model was used to compute tidal distribution of the Kum River for aveage spring, mean, neap tidal conditions and further utilised to investigate the waterlevel response within tidal reaches by combined tide and flood discharge effects. The objective of this initial study is to investigate the tidal dynamics of the lower reaches of the Keum River under the condition of before-cross-channel barrage construction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 1990

Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.