• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.969-977
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• 2007

The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.9-18
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• 1982

In this study, we attempted to make an original pattern of clothing for an abnormal type of figure, especially for the type of kyphosis. We measured the curvature of the spine of a woman with kyphosis with a Martin measuring instrument and a silhouetter in the following ways. First, we counted the rate of shrinkage of the standard lines drawn on the surface of the body according as the body moved. Secondly, placing the front and back darts, the front and back shoulder darts and the side darts according to“Munhwa”pattern, we made cubic cuttings of four moving postures as well as the standing one. Thirdly, we superposed the developed patterns of the standing and the moving postures, measuring the position change and the amount of the chaange of the darts, and compared them. The results are as follows: 1) In the developed pattern of a cubic cutting of the basic pattern and the standing posture, the neckhole became larger than that of the basic pattern, and the waist line was lowered than that of the basic pattern because the center back line was shortened due to the curved backbone. 2) As for the change of the standard line according to the movement, we found that the waist line, the center front line, the center back line, the bust width line, the upper back width line and the back width line became longer. Special consideration must be given to the function of the clothing for an abnormal type of figure. 3) The difference of the measurements between the cubic cutting and the body measurement regardless of the body movement is due to a gap by an acute angle at the jutted place between the developed pattern and the body surface. We found that the body measurement of the upper back width line, the back width line and the bust line became larger. Consequently, in making an original clothing pattern, it is desirable that we must not place the front and the back waist darts at the jutted place on the back from the functional and the aesthetic viewpoint of clothing. It is also desirable that we must widen the neckhole because the shoulder angle is close to a straight line due to a jut of the upper back width line.

• Korean Journal of Materials Research
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.397-402
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• 2017

We used an etching process to control the line-width of screen printed Ag paste patterns. Ag paste was printed on anodized Al substrate to produce a high power LED. In general, Ag paste spreads or diffuses on anodized Al substrate in the process of screen printing; therefore, the line-width of the printed Ag paste pattern increases in contrast with the ideal line-width of the pattern. Smudges of Ag paste on anodized Al substrate were removed by neutral etching process without surface damage of the anodized Al substrate. Accordingly, the line-width of the printed Ag paste pattern was controlled as close as possible to the ideal line-width. When the etched Ag paste pattern was used as a seed layer for electroless Ni plating, the line width of the plated Ni film was similar to the line-width of the etched Ag paste pattern. Finally, in pattern formation by Ag paste screen printing, we found that the accuracy of the line-width of the pattern can be effectively improved by using an etching process before electroless Ni plating.

• KSII Transactions on Internet and Information Systems (TIIS)
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.1766-1784
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• 2014

Finger vein images contain rich oriented features. Local line binary pattern (LLBP) is a good oriented feature representation method extended from local binary pattern (LBP), but it is limited in that it can only extract horizontal and vertical line patterns, so effective information in an image may not be exploited and fully utilized. In this paper, an orientation-selectable LLBP method, called generalized local line binary pattern (GLLBP), is proposed for finger vein recognition. GLLBP extends LLBP for line pattern extraction into any orientation. To effectually improve the matching accuracy, the soft power metric is employed to calculate the matching score. Furthermore, to fully utilize the oriented features in an image, the matching scores from the line patterns with the best discriminative ability are fused using the Hamacher rule to achieve the final matching score for the last recognition. Experimental results on our database, MMCBNU_6000, show that the proposed method performs much better than state-of-the-art algorithms that use the oriented features and local features, such as LBP, LLBP, Gabor filter, steerable filter and local direction code (LDC).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.22-31
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• 2011

In this study, to develop a bodice pattern for women aged 18~24 years, statistical analysis was conducted using the body measurements from 2004 Size Korea and wearing test was conducted. As a result, ease of the bust level to set a horizontal line was decided to be 4cm, that of front interscye line 0cm, and that of back interscye line 0.7~1cm. And the line which divides the horizontal baseline into halves set as the side line. The conversion formula for decision of the scye depth line in the pattern is B/6 + 3.3(cm) + ease (2.5cm), and if bust circumference is 91 or more, it should be 21cm, and if bust circumference is 76 or less, it should be 18.5cm. The back neck line width is 7cm, front neck line width 6.5cm(back neck line width -0.5cm), and front neck depth 8cm(back neck line width +1cm). The shoulder slope was set as a slope of the hypotenuse of a right-angled triangle, which went out 15cm out of the shoulder point and went down 6cm, with tan$21.7^{\circ}$. To develop a final research pattern, wearing test was performed on the primary research pattern for 21 women aged 18~24 years. As a result, the research pattern was evaluated to be significantly higher.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.407-412
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• 2005

This study is to establish the pattern for one piece dress which fits well to the women somatotype with different drop value and is functional and has high body fitness. Selected 2 testers from classified 4 types who were close to the average value and took twice dressing test. After successive correction and revision, patterns of one piece dress for each somatotype were established. M type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm(dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+0.8 cm for front and H/4+0.8 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.5 cm. A type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1.5 cm for front and H/4+1 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.2 cm. X type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2 cm for back. Waist line is W/4+2+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+1+2+1.4 cm(for two darts amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1 cm for front and H/4+1.3cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. H type; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2cm for back. Waist line is W/4+1.7+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+2 cm for front and H/4+1.5 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. In order to achieve the objective evaluation on a new pattern in this study, the sensory evaluation for both Imwonja pattern and a new pattern in this study was completed. As a result of sensory evaluation, a new pattern of this study could accomplished a good appearance in reflecting characteristics of each types and could achieved the functional superiority than comparison pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.17-28
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• 1999

This study was to analyze factors of the body form and factors of bodice pattern through a surface developement figure for the tight bodice pattern design. Fifty replicas of the trunk surface were made by applying a surgical tape method of female subjects between 18 and 24 years old. The result was as follows: 1. The gaps between direct measurements and measurements of the surface development figure were regarded as allowances for the tight bodice pattern. 2. There are four factors of body form selected by factor analysis. The 1st factor signifies th degree of fatness in the upper body. The 2nd factor signifies the length of the upper body. The 3rd factor signifies the part of the front shoulder. The 4th factor signifies the part of the neck. 3. There are high correlations between center back line of the surface development figure and back length line side line front length line back neck depth back upper chest depth. There are high correlations between back bust line of the surface development figure and back interscye breadth line back upper chest line back armhole line. There are high correlations between front bust line of the surface development figure and front upper chest line front interscye breadth line front armhole line front neck breadth 4. The regression expressions of measurements of the surface development figure of the upper body were analyzed as(Fig. 3).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.116-137
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop jacket patterns that could fit well for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome body shape and to present a pattern drafting method. As a research method, an educational pattern was chosen through a preliminary experiment. Fit problems of the educational pattern were derived by wearing it on a virtual model with a turtle neck syndrome body type for each neck angle. Based on the three types of experimental patterns developed by supplementing these problems, a development pattern drafting method was developed for each neck angle. Three development patterns were compared and evaluated with the educational pattern using 3D virtual fitting. Fit problems of the educational pattern included: 1) insufficient ease amounts for hip, hem, bicep, elbow, and sleeve hem circumference; 2) horizontal items could not be leveled due to insufficient back length; 3) the shoulder line went backwards; and 4) the front center line did not form a vertical line. To solve these problems, an experimental pattern was developed by increasing the insufficient ease amount, increasing the insufficient back length, and correcting the position of the shoulder line. Measurements that differed in the pattern drafting method of the three types of development patterns by neck angle were positions of back center line and back neck point, front length, and front neck width. Through appearance evaluation of the development pattern and educational pattern by neck angle, the development pattern was highly evaluated, indicating that problems of the educational pattern were improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.