• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.86-99
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• 1998

The aim of this study to examine the Hip-Hop style, one of the fashion trends of the new generation in the 1990s and to come up with a design with a Hip-Hop image. As the Counterculture, Black Renaissance, Pop Star Syndrome, the importance of Hip-Hop fashion in mass culture was recognized and given a firm place as one of the major cultural trends of the 1990s. Hip-Hop fashion has a history: it originated from the Caribbean style in the 1940s and was transformed into Rude Boys style in the 1960s, Two-tone style and Rastafarians style in the 1970s. Finally it was succeeded by B-boys and Flygirls style. Hip-Hop style combines characteristics of all three styles mixed in one, which are as follows. First, Neo-Hip-Hop Fashion, Second, Hip-Hop Reggae Fashion and Third, Graffiti Fashion. Based on these three Hip-Hop images of the 19905, an attempt will be made to produce a Design Planning with a predicted 1998 fashion trend. This research provides order sheets on ready-made clothes designed for new generation in their late 10s and early 20s. Design Concept, Image Map, Fabric, color direction will be offered on the basis of an image map drawn in line with the three design concepts incorporating three sub themes of Liveliness, Modern Ethnic, and Dynamic Future. Three designs will be designed based on the following fashion themes$\ddot{o}$ Generation 'Y', Black Guys and Street Boys.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.148-159
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.280-291
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• 2004

Apparel goods are classified by many criteria for ease of merchandising implementation. Fashion and basic goods are also an oucome oi classification. Previous studies pnvide some criteria by which apparel products can be classified into fushion and basic goods. Among those ciiteria, seasonality, fashionability, clothing types, complexity in pnduction, simplicity of style, pioducuon volume, degree of style change by season, could be listed. This study, first explored how apparel merchandisers and designers define fashion and basic goods in relation with those criteria. Definitions of fashion and basic goods were explored in terms of design elements (i.e., style, color, material), production volume, sales ratio, proportion in product assortment, and contribution to profit. The study adopted a qualitative approach by use of eighteen infepth interviews with menhandisers and designers. Six were from women＇s wear brand, Seven from men＇s wear brand, and 5 from casual wear brand. All the interviewees agreed that they are using the classification of basic vs. fashion goods. However, they are using diverse terms to indicate the basic and fashion goods. The interviewees defined each group based on its contribution to total sales or profit complexity in design, production volume, and style change by season. Basic goods had a higher level of production quantity, contribute more to profit simpler design, and less style change by season than fashion goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.1-17
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• 2013

As style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of its membership, the style of Goth symbolizes the strong subcultural identity and acts as the practical basis to demonstrate commitment to the subculture. In the turn of the third millennium, fashion designers have drawn upon and extracted elements from many subcultures to use in their collections. High fashion designers have introduced the Goth style since its inception in the 1980s. The energy and authenticity of Goth has been considered to be desirable in high fashion. The aesthetic property of Goth subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness, which makes room for diversification and subdivision. This study attempts to forecast the trends of the 21st century via researching the diffusion of Goth style in high fashion. In order to investigate the aesthetics and styles of Gothic chic, along with literature research, this study investigates the fashion collections from the late 1990s to 2000s as well as the images of street fashion magazines.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.82-92
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to segment an infant's wear market on the base of housewife's fashion life-style for satisfaction of varied needs and high efficiency of marketing activity. This study was used 183 questionnaires (20∼30 generation housewife in Seoul) for statistical analysis. This study was used factor analysis and cluster analysis to group same respondents and frequency analysis, x2_analysis, ANOVA, duncan-test to analyze characteristics of demographics, clothing purchase pattern for each segmented group. The respondents were divided into 4 groups of differnt housewife's fashion life-style matte tons according to the results of analysis. The findings of the research on each groups are summarized as follows: 1) Subdividing market was classified such as a fashion-seeking/shoping-oriented group, personality-seeking group, practical/planning group, traditional conservative group. 2) According to characteristics of demographics in Subdividing market, there were significant difference in their school career, family monthly income, existence of job. 3) According to clothing purchase pattern in Subdividing market, there were significant difference in housewife's fashion life-style. But there were only partly significant difference in characteristics of demographics. In this study, housewife's fashion life-style segmentation in infant's wear market has purpose that marketing managers are given these infornations and various wants of consumers can be satisfied.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1155-1166
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate deconstructive trends of the street fashion in the 1990s spring/summer(S/S) Collections. This study was carried out by both the qualitative analysis and the quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the important street fashion was grouped and deconstruction was sampling of category. In the quantitative analysis, it took frequency, percentage and $\chi$$^2$-test. The results of the quantitative analysis are as follows: 1. \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" has been most popular street fashion through the 1990s. The next is \"Sportive Casual\". 2. According to \"deconstructive inner meanings\", there are significant differences between the S/S street fashion in the 1990s. In \"N대-Mods/Jazz\" style, \"Sportive Casual style\" and \"Technos/Cyber-punk\" style, \"Intertextuality\" is high. In \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" style, \"Exhibition of Otherness\" is high. 3. According to the \"deconstructive outer description\", there are also significant differences between the S/S street fashion in the 1990s. But, In \"Neo-Mods/Jazz\" style, \"Not Included\" is high, which means the \"N대-Mods/Jazz\" isnt related to the \"deconstructive outer description\". In \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" style, \"Poverty.outworn\" is high. In \"Sportive Casual\", \"Exposure\" is high. In the \"Technos/Cyber-punk\", \"Destruction.Division\" is high.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.50-68
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• 2016

The objectives of this study are to identify the self-image and preferred fashion styles that Korean career women seek in different daily situations, and to propose a positioning map in accords with the findings. The study conducted a survey and in-depth interviews. The study used twenty items of self-image adjectives extracted from existing studies, and eighteen fashion style stimuli collected by examining women's wear brands. The study surveyed 329 career women. Their daily situation was classified into five situations; external meeting and presentation, ordinary work, wedding and family gathering, blind date or date, and meeting with friends and acquaintances. The analysis results of this study showed that self-image and fashion style preferences are relevant to daily situation. The image most sought in external meetings and presentation was the 'Elegant' image, and the image most sought in meetings with friends and acquaintances was the 'active' image. Women on dates or blind dates sought the 'feminine' image the most, however they preferred to avoid this image during external meetings and presentations. Among fashion styles, the 'elegant/classic' style was most preferred, and the 'sexy/avant-garde' style had the lowest preference among all the styles. 'Mannish' was preferred in ordinary work and meeting with friends and acquaintances, however, it was shown as having the lowest preference level in blind dates or dates. The 'romantic/natural' style was highly preferred in meeting with friends and acquaintances, however it had a low level of preference for external meetings and presentations. This study has significance in providing practical information to utilize in fashion industry by identifying the relationship between self-image and preferred fashion style sought by career women according to daily situation, and using the results to propose a positioning map.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.113-130
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• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.111-123
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate girlish fashion as a contemporary as well as Romanticism of the 21st century. The background of girlish fashion is regarded as a hot blast of restoration and a appearance of kidults, such characteristics of these factors, that is, the moderns's longing for the memory of old days and kidult's concerns for the dream of their childhood, have a direct influence on the Romanticism. So the plasticity of girlish fashion was analyzed as a results: 1) This plasticity named Recurrent Romanticism as 21st New Look, especially the plasticity represented in a princess style fashion. The princess style fashion of girlish fashion means not only a expression of the moderns's self-confidence but also nostalgia toward old days. 2) Sweet Romanticism developed into angel style fashion, which the style expressed the moderate cuteness with clothing construction and detail etc and the innocence with white color. 3) The plasticity of girlish fashion called a feast of color named Fantastic Romanticism. Fantastic Romanticism of girlish fashion means not only a expression of a lovely girlie's image but also hope toward 21st century. Throughout the study, Romanticism as a cultural code of 21st century was considered to reflected in the whole livelihood as well as contemporary fashion, especially, girlish fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.611-621
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• 2009

As fashion is a visual symbol that reflects age and culture, cosmetics and beauty are other products of fashion that move the time. A dominant designer of 20th century Chanel does not merely stand for a design innovation of fashion industry that created a vogue. With liberation from corsets that cruelly exaggerated and suppressed female body, meaning of style in modern fashion could be found not only in clothing but also in make-up and hair style. Simplest possible comfort was aimed for, and philosophical concepts of minimalism, modernism and dandyism were incorporated with clothing, cosmetics, perfume, make-up and hair style to establish aesthetical concept of total fashion. Chanel thought of cosmetics as an accessory with essential role and although her philosophy on cosmetics and beauty is not as well known as her clothing style, the authors believe that understanding such philosophy will become an important stepping stone for accurately understanding Chanel style. The purpose of this study is to firstly illuminate the idea that cosmetic beauty can be studied with artistic and philosophical background in addition to its functional side and to secondly investigate the reason why Chanel style is being loved by women with such durability over time and space and with what tempo fashion is connected with cosmetic beauty culture and develops. Third, by studying the ways in which characteristics of Chanel's fashion philosophy are expressed in cosmetics and beauty culture, this study aims to accurately understand Chanel's philosophy on cosmetics and beauty. The meaning of this study can be found by showing the evidence that globalization of Korean fashion beauty culture can be achieved only when cosmetics and beauty culture moves with an intimate connection to clothing culture.