• Title/Summary/Keyword: Korean dress

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The Development about Fashion Trend Reflection in a Dmestic and foreign Silver Brand (국내$\cdot$외 실버 브랜드에서의 패션 트렌드 반영에 관한 연구)

  • Chung Sham-Ho
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.2 s.92
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2005
  • The realistic plan to establish a silver market in the clothing industries has not taken concrete shape, although the interest in the establishment of a silver market targeting the aged as a new custom group Is gradually Increasing because the rapid development of science and medical technology in the 20th century has led to an extension of lift and improvement of living conditions. The specialized business which produces and sells the clothing for the elderly is of small number and most of the clothes for the elderly are manufactured and sold by the companies for women's clothing in which change the size or length of the original works rather than reflect the bodily features of the elderly. The findings indicated that domestic brands showed the coordinated concept of a suit of jacket and slacks or skirts while the clothes were formed with a variety of coordinations centering around single article in the U.S brands. But, there was no difference in the use of natural materials centering around cotton and silk etc. and in the use of embroidery, lace and decorative details between the two countries. The knit brands of knit suit style in Korea were formed with the items focused on pull over and cardigan twin set, while the U.S brands were mainly formed with the design of knit suit style. The domestic knit brands were mostly developed with complicated patterns and gorgeous colors, while most of the U.S. brands were presenting a single or two tone color suit style and evening one-piece dress with a simple and modern style. The sporty casual brands of sporty casual style in Korea had a variety of colors and patterns focused on function and comfort for diverse leisure activities and daily life, while the U.S brands were established to present a variety of styles with the items of single article because they had a separate brand for casual even though it was not a exclusive brand for the elderly This study has a meaning in the presentation of the design idea considering the bodily shape of the elderly compared to the ready-to-wear considering the size alone, by examining the characteristics of bodice according to the physical change of the elderly women, analyzing the design of madam brand and the style of the ready-to-wear, researching the general circumstances of the brand for the elderly women, and highlighting the necessity of the elderly clothing market.

Effect of Interaction between Category Coherence and Base Rate on Presumption of Reasons for Preference (범주 응집성과 기저율의 상호작용이 선호의 이유 추정에 미치는 효과)

  • Doh, Eun Yeong;Lee, Guk-Hee
    • Korean Journal of Cognitive Science
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    • v.31 no.3
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    • pp.77-102
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    • 2020
  • Some progress has been made in the study of the category coherence effect, which states that the attributes of soldiers or nuns with similarities in dress and behavior, and easily distinguished from other categories, are likely to be generalized. However, few studies have examined the fundamental psychological mechanisms that underlie this category coherence effect, and this study aims to fill this gap. For this purpose, two experiments were conducted after selecting categories with high coherence (nuns, soldiers, and flight attendants) and those with low coherence (interpreters, wedding planners, and florists). In experiment 1, we observed that the members of a category were presumed to have certain reasons to prefer [property X] (presumption of reasons for preference), with this presumption becoming stronger when [property X] was observed repeatedly in high-coherence categories than in the case of low-coherence categories. Experiment 2 showed that for the high-coherence categories, the presumption of reasons for preference was stronger when [property X], rarely seen in everyday life (base rate of 30%), was observed, while the presumption of reasons for preference was weaker when [property Y] (base rate 70%), frequently seen in everyday life, was observed. In the low-coherence categories, the presumption of reasons for preference tended to be weak for both rare and frequent attributes. That is, there were significant effects of the two-way interaction between category coherence and base rate on the presumption of reasons for preference. This study has implications for psychological essentialism and stereotyping.

A Study on the Fish Shape Credit Mark of the Ancient China and Japan, Korea (한.중.일 3국의 어부 제도에 관한 연구)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.7
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    • pp.15-31
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    • 2000
  • 1. After the Chu Dynasty(周代), we can confirm the fish shape mark made of stones as the relics of the Chunkuk dynasty(戰國時代). In the Shu Dynasty(隋代), the system of bamboo and the rabbit shape mark made of silver into the fish shape mark. As it were, made of bamboo or siltier changed into the fish shape mark made of jade, gold, silver or wood. 2. In the Dang Dynasty(唐代), the used the fish shape credit mark made of jade, gold, silver, copper or textile, according to their classes. According to one's posit the man who wore purple, red coat, credit mark made a gold and silver. attached with putting them in fish bags. 3. In the Ryo Dynasty(遼代), there was also a system of attaching marks. The emperor was hanging the fish shape and the officials attached the double fish shape to the common dress. fish shape of jade. gold, amber, agate, silver or copper. without any fish bag. 4. The Song Dynasty(宋代) followed the system of the Dang Dynasty they used only the fish shape bags without marks in them. Hanging the fish shape bags made of gold and silver at the back side of the belt. 5. The Gin Dynasty(金代) carried out the system of made jade, gold or silver like the Dang, Song and Ryo Dynasty. In the Sejong Kingdom a system of paper card was carried out as the credit mark of the eighth and the ninth grade. 6. In the Ming Dynasty(明代), the military official general attached the golden, silver, ivory of jade, wood and copper cards with their positions and names. 7. Following the Dang Dynasty, Japan made of fish shape bags to their clothes. Colors of their fish shape marks were same as their clothes. They made the marks, such as crystal, cow's horn, lead and nickel and plated them with gold or silver. 8. In Korea, Pohai(발해) established the fish shape credit mark differed in material. gold, silver or copper according to their positions. We can confirm the Unified Silla(南國;統一新羅), carried out the system of attaching the fish shape in Chonma Chong(천마총), Golden Crown Chong(金冠塚), the King's 13-17 belt ring unearthed at the north part of Court South threat Chong(황남대총), the fish shape golden or silver, to their purple or red ceremonial coats. In the Koryo Dynasty(高麗), like the Dang, Song and Pohai, they attached the fish shape golden or silver marks, to their purple or red ceremonial coats.

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The Grotesque Fashion in modern Fashion (현대 패션에 나타난 그로테스크)

  • 최정화;유영선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.40
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    • pp.151-170
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

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A Study on Academic Costume Design -Focusing on the Design of Academic Costume Representing the University Identity of Seoul Women's University- (학위복 디자인 연구 -서울여자대학교의 UI를 구현한 학위복 개발을 중심으로-)

  • Chun, Hei-Jung;Na, Hyun-Shin;Lee, Kyung-Ah;Lee, So-Ryung;Kim, Hee-Kyun;An, Chang-Hyun;Park, Jin-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.8
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    • pp.30-46
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    • 2008
  • This study aims to develop an academic costume design representing the university identity of Seoul Women's University. As a formal dress and uniform symbolizing the dignity of study, academic costume arouses self-esteem of the owner and represents the symbolic order. UI(University Identity) is a system that embodies the identity of the university and create a certain image, and thus actively delivers the image pursued by the university. The study method to develop a new academic costume design of Seoul Women's University includes the theoretical background of UI and academic costume, investigation on the current rendition of academic costume, home and abroad, and a survey to collect the basic data for academic costume design development. Most of the respondents presented negative opinions on the existing academic costume and graduation cap, which do not show any clear distinction from those of other universities. They made a pressing demand for the development of an academic costume that well represents the image of the university by reflecting the university feature and symbol. As a result of the survey, it turned out that they preferred an academic costume with short length balloon sleeves to the exiting one, and that as for neck line and front hook, those of the existing one were preferred. This study developed and presented 9 different models of graduation gowns and 5 different caps based on the theoretical investigation and survey concerning academic costume. It is expected that the academic costume representing the university identity not only arouses self-esteem of the owner, but also enhances the university's position.

A Study on the Responsibility Judgment and Mental Disorder of Criminal Psychology (책임능력판단에 관한 범죄심리학적 이론과 정신장애 항변 연구)

  • Rim, Sang-Gon
    • Korean Security Journal
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    • no.10
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    • pp.293-322
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    • 2005
  • The culpability of a person, as determined by due process of law, for any of his actions that are defined as criminal. Determination of such responsibility is a legal function, not a psychiatric one, although a psychiatrist may be called upon to present evidence to the court in order to aid the judge or jury in reaching a decision as to responsibility. Determination of responsibility varies with the laws of the state in which the accused is being tried, but in general all states base their laws on three famous judicial decisions concerning criminal responsibility. 1. the M'Naghten(McNaughton) rule(a. to establish such a defense the accused, at the time the act was committed, must be shown to have been laboring under such defect of reason as not to know the nature and quality of the act he was doing, b. if he did know it, he did or know that what he was doing was wrong). 2. the irresistible impulse test. 3. the Durham decision. Under the Durham test, however, the psychiatrist may give any relevant testmony concerning the mental illness at issue. The psychological and behavioral appearance of a person, in clinical psychiatry this term is commonly used to refer to the results of the mental examination of a patient. The written report of the mental status usually contains specific references to the following areas: I. Attitude and General Behavior (1)General health and appearance. (2)General habits of dress. (3)Personal habits. (4)General mood. (5)Use of leisure time. (6)Degree of sociability. (7)Speech. II. Attitude and Behavior during interview (1)Co-operativeness. (2)Poise. (3)Facial expression. (4)Motor activity. (5)Mental activity. (6)Emotional reactions. (7)Trend of thought. III. Sensorium, mental grasp, and capacity (1)Orientation. (2)Memory and retention. (3)Estimate of intelligence. (4)Abstraction ability. (5)Tests of absurdity, interpretation of proverbs. (6)Judgment.

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The Effects of Fertilizer Application Level and Top-dressing Method on the Yield Component and Fruit Yield of Lycium chinense MILL (시비량과 분시방법이 포기자의 수량형질에 미치는 영향)

  • 서관석;이주열;김소연;김준기;한규흥
    • KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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    • v.31 no.4
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    • pp.465-469
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    • 1986
  • This study was conducted to investigate the proper fertilizer application level and top-dressing method of Lycium chinense MILL in 1984 and 1985. The results obtained were summerized as follows; Stem length was 4cm longer, leaf area was 45-490$\textrm{cm}^2$ larger, dry matter weight per plant was 1.6-5g heavier and average yield of dry fruit of two years was higher as 183kg per l0a in double amount of potassium( 14kg/l0a) application than in standard level of potassium(7kg/l0a). Highly positive correlation was found between absorption amount of inorganic elements of phosporus(l%), nitrogen, potassium(5%) and dry matter weight. Proper fertilizer application level was 13.8kg(N), 14.2kg(P) and 14.3kg(K) per l0a. Dry fruit yield of top-dress-ing plot was 20% heigher than that of basal dressing plot through increase of leaf area per plant and dry matter weight per plant.

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The Analysis of Fashion Styles from Global Plus-size Woman's Power Blog -Focused on Analysis of USA Market- (글로벌 플러스 사이즈 파워 블로그에 나타난 여성 패션 연구 -미국 시장을 중심으로-)

  • Ryu, Jinyoung;Syn, Hye-young;Im, Jooyeon;Lee, Inseong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.40 no.5
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    • pp.830-843
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    • 2016
  • The world wide increase of obesity and demands for various plus-size fashion are expanding the global plus-size fashion market. This study is to understand the market status of the US (the biggest plus-size fashion market) as well as analyze women's fashion shown in power blogs on the plus-size fashion trend. For research methods, photos from the top 10 globally ranked plus-size power blogs on Alexa.com were collected and divided into 5 plus-size body types based on: design factors, style, color, item, and texture. Pants with tops or completed outfits including pants, tops, and outer were the most common for casual styles; in addition, a tendency to pursue comfortable and naturally fitted clothes was also indicated. As for colors, the most common were blue colors and white or pastel toned colors; in addition, soft, hard, and transparent were all evenly used for materials. One-piece items were the most popular formal style that were mostly a one-tone color made with hard materials indicated by the pursuit of the fanciness and formality of a dress for a formal occasion. Black was the most common color, and the color variation was less diverse compared to that of casual styles. The most common for semi-formal styles were outfits with movability and more fanciness such as wearing a casual outer on top of a formal one-piece. When examining the fashion in plus-size blogs, there are differences in the frequency of design factors due to the diversity of body-types; in addition, different items were shown to be preferred in accordance with styles. The results of this study will help fashion companies who want to enter the global plus-size women's fashion market (including the US market); in addition, research on plus-size fashion that is changing the fashion and aesthetic paradigm is expected to contribute to academia.

A Comparative Study on Small-Sized Apartment Plan Composition in Seoul and Shanghai (서울과 상해 소형아파트의 평면구성 비교 연구)

  • Park, Su kyeong
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.23 no.3
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    • pp.173-180
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    • 2014
  • Dwelling connotes characteristics like social and cultural and technical climatic conditions, lifestyles and demands of regions, and especially, apartment, as one of dwelling types, shows various aspects of modern society. With the economic development centering on large cities, apartments have been established as universal housing forms in Seoul and Shanghai. The deepening of economic development in cities has increased small households consisting of one or two persons by affecting the population and household structure, and they've become information consumer groups. This has also influenced the size of apartment and increased the demand for small-sized housing. If the floor area is small, it is possible to use space widely according to the plan composition, so there is a need for floor planning to understand natural environment, physical environment and residents.This study compared and analyzed plan compositions of small-sized apartments which have been parceled out for the recent three years in Seoul and Shanghai. This study aims to understand housing cultures and users in the two countries depending on natural environments, living habits and spatial functions by analyzing common points and differences of public spaces like living room, dining room and kitchen, and private spaces like bedroom which have absolute effects on room arrangement and traffic line. The study results are as follows. From the perspective of natural environments, in Seoul, two-sided open cross-ventilation structure where is favorable to lighting and ventilation, occupied the biggest proportion of public space, while in Shanghai, most public spaces had lighting and ventilation structures through windows in each room. In Seoul, 3R type occupied the largest proportion of private space(87.7%), and privacy was maintained and space scale was adjusted using spaces with diverse functions such as bathroom in the couple bedroom, dress room and powder room and variable walls. But 2R type occupied the largest proportion of private space(60.2%) in Shanghai, and they emphasized private space and privacy of each room depending on major living habits. In conclusion, this study for comparing and analyzing common points and differences of small-sized apartment plan compositions in Seoul and Shanghai will provide proper guidelines for small-sized apartments to be built in Seoul and Shanghai in the future, if strong points and weak points of plan compositions in the two countries will be additionally analyzed and remedied.

A Study on the Costume of Ch'ing Dynasty in "Dream of the Read Chamber" ("홍루몽"에 나타난 청대복식 연구)

  • 나해연;전혜숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.24
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    • pp.59-82
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    • 1995
  • All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.

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