• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.103-119
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• 2011

This study set out to analyze the solid shapes of knit flared skirts, which are best represented in a 3-dimensional shape for all knit skirts, according to the seamed and seamless production method and to estimate the silhouettes of knit flared skirts based on the results. It also aimed to help with the introduction and spread of seamless weaving by revising and supplementing potential problems and provide findings that would be put to active use as basic data, thus contributing to the development of original knitwear and offering fundamental materials for the development of the knitting industry. A number of experimental knit flared skirts were made according to skirt angle ($90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge (7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain (bias, wale, and radial), including 12 kinds of seamed knit flared skirts and 6 kinds of seamless knit flared skirts. Using a three-dimensional shape measurement system, the investigator measured the cross-sectional shapes of their hemlines. The SPSS 12 Version program was used for statistical processing, and descriptive statistics such as mean and standard deviation were used to compare the seamed and seamless knit flared skirts in the measurements (measurement items) of their solid shapes according to the width, gauges, and grain directions. The central grain direction of seamless knit flared skirts was in a radial form and even hemlines, thus presenting a beautiful appearance and solid shape. The 3-dimensional shapes show that seamless knit flared skirts are superior to seamed ones. The research findings are expected to open a door for Korea's knitting industry to quickly respond to small quantity batch production and additional orders.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.167-179
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• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.11
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• pp.31-43
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• 1987

The present research is to study a variation of skirt length in the time series, from 1955 to 1986. The results are summarized as follows; 1. The most important event is the acceptance of Mini skirts during this period. This phenomenon will play an important role in later skirt length. 2. The year of the shortest skirt length is 1972, while the year of the longest skirt length is 1983. 3. Based upon the year of the shortest skirt length, the periods of the same skirt length are as follows; 1956-1975. 1964-1978. 1959, 1960-1980, 1981. 1961-1982. This phenomenon is irregularly appeared in this study, but shows the change of recurring skirt length. 4. The skirt length has been changed slowly and continuously during the long period of time. In particular, to reach the shortest skirt length takes longer time than that of the longest skirt length. 5. It has taken 6-8 years to reach the top period of Mini skirts (1971-1973) since shorts are introduced. Comparing this phenomenon in Korea with that in Japan, the time difference is about two years. 6. The periods of various skirts length are the year of 1970-1971 and the year of 1972-1973; This result is assumed that individual persons accept sooner or later the changed skirt length. 7. It is belived that Mini skirts are appeared and popularized by external factors. Once Mini skirts are accepted, we can expect that they will be continuosly changed in the course of recurring skirt length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.125-137
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• 2002

This study proved that Japanese skirt(裳 'sang') during 5-8 century was introduced by korean emigrants. The skirt of the Tang dynasty(7C) which used to be worn among Japanese upper class in the Nara period(8C),is understood to be transferred through Korean as it was popularly worn in the Shilla Dynasty at the same time. Because Japan was not able to trade with Tang during 4-9 century, unless pass through the Korean peninsular, it suggests that Japanese costume was affected by Korean style of costume. At the later Heian period in Japan, Kosode was mainly worn among Japanese and wearing a skirt has to be abandoned. Instead, only the train, a part of skirt, remain as a decorative part on the back of Japanese woman's formal dress and it continued until now.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.584-597
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• 2014

This study verified the 'Hemline Index' theory by George (1926) and established a new fashion theory frame to forecast future fashion cycles of skirts by analyzing the past fashion cycle of skirts through a diachronic method. Skirt pictures from 1980-2013 (the post-industrialized period of Korea) were analyzed and representative skirt styles, the fashion cycle of skirts and relation between skirt style, length, width and stock index were identified. A total of 1496 pictures in fashion magazine published over 34 years were selected and analyzed using PASW 18.0. The results were: For 34 years, representative skirts styles were mini skirt, midi skirt and long skirt. Fashion trend cycles of skirt length decreased for 10 years and the fashion cycle showed a trend to shorten. Skirt length & stock index related negatively and skirt length & skirt width related positively. All relations revealed significant results. Finally, the 'Hemline Index' theory of George (1926) was verified. Fashion marketers can develop successful and suitable products using a fashion cycle theory based on the results of this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.812-825
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• 2020

This study compared and analyzed the interaction visual effect of skirt silhouettes and skirt length by body mass index. This study provides basic data for women in their 20s and 30s to choose suitable skirts for their image. Twelve skirts were made, consisting of two categories of body mass index, three types of skirt silhouette and two levels of skirt length. Men and women in their 20s and 30s evaluated the visual effects of the experimental skirts using a questionnaire. The interaction effect of the visual effect following the skirt's length and silhouette by body mass index were analyzed by three-way ANOVA. Overall, a shorter the body and lower body length resulted in better vertical effects in normal weight. In terms of horizontal effects, such as lower body thickness and full-body shape, the 40 cm skirt, 50 cm tight, and A-line skirt were generally shown as better images. Skirt length helped supplement body type rather than silhouette in the overweight section. When the length was 40 cm, three skirts showed a more positive image. This study provide results for women in their 20s and 30s to choose skirts that are suitable for their image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.140-149
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• 2013

The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.903-916
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to analyze the eroticism of the exposed body and clothing style of Chinese foreign students in Korea and to provide basic information required to design and develop a niche market for the Chinese. A Chinese professor translated 52 questions, which formed a preliminary survey given to 30 Chinese students. Following this preliminary survey, some questions were then revised. The surveys were conducted during 3 weeks starting from the 5th of October. Only 289 of 330 questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Data were analyzed statistically through Frequency analysis, Chi-square test, T-test, and Regression analyses in SPSS 12.0. The results of this study were as follows. First, we should consider men's breast, back, and neck line in order to develop the design of men's clothes, and the leg and collarbones for women's clothing. Second, it was suggested that we pay attention to the following articles of clothing to expand the erotic market for Chinese women's clothes: mini-skirts, side slit skirts, and tight-skirts for bottoms; blouses or T-shirts with a neckline scooped out deeply for tops; and see-through one-piece dresses with deeply scooped out backs.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.128-136
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• 2014

The virtual try-on technologies of the current level have limitations with material expression as well as some difficulties with commercialization. There are differences in simulation results and subjective evaluations perceived by consumers according to the types and physical characteristics of materials used in virtual try-on simulations. This study were to analyze the exterior clothing shapes and visual images from 3D virtual try-on simulations with materials whose drapability was differentiated and then test the accuracy of the expression of the drapability of the materials. The study carried out 3D virtual try-on simulations by selecting flared skirts as an item to best express differences in drapability along with five materials of different physical properties and offered some basic data for greater utilization of virtual try-on simulations by comparing and analyzing them with the exterior shapes and visual images of actual flared skirts. The analysis results of hemline shapes between actual and virtual try-on according to the types of materials showed no match among the quantitative items of exterior shapes factors. There were no significant differences in the visual images except for "soft" according to the simulation methods, which means that the items can serve as part of a scale for visual image comparison. It is necessary to reflect quantitative numbers regarding "drapability" proposed in the study simulation software and to continue to build a systematic database for virtual simulations by investigating and testing various materials.