• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.211-219
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• 2004

Yew (Taxus cuspidata Sieb.) chose that grow as medicine, food, decorative plant in Korea's Kyong-Gi province surroundings. Extracts of yew extracted leaf of 250g and stems of 300g with 1,3-butylene glycol (l,3-BG), propylene glycol (PG) and water. As results, external appearance of leaf extract of yew was slightly brown clear extract. The pH was 5.3${\pm}$0.5, and specific gravity was 1.012${\pm}$0.05, and refractive index was l.375${\pm}$0.05. Also, appearance of stem's extract was slightly brown clear extract, and the pH was 5.4${\pm}$0.5, and specific gravity was 1.016${\pm}$0.05, and refractive index was 1.358${\pm}$0.05. Oil of yew separated from seeds, and extracted polysaccharide high purity from fruits. As a result, specific gravity of oil was 0.987, and obtained 40.0% of yield. Total polyphenols amount of yew extract is detected 0.563% in leaves, 0.325% in stems, whereas total tannins amount contained 0.054% and 0.037% each in leaves and stems. As effect in cosmetics, the anti-oxidative effect by DPPH method is 75.0% in leaves, and stems was 64.0%. Collagen synthesis rate was shown high activity by 54.16% in stem's extract, 33.18% in leaves' extract. Also, PPE-inhibitory activities were 13.7% and 23.5% each in leaves and stems. Anti-inflammatory effect of yew seed oil displayed superior effect of 41% than control. Polysaccharide's molecular weight that is gotten from fruits was 5${\times}$10$^4$-3${\times}$10$\^$5/ dalton, and got 20.0${\pm}$5% of yield.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.80-98
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• 2002

Taxus cuspidata Sieb selected cultivation as drug, food and decorative plant in Kyong-gi province in Korea. As a manufacturing method, there were extracted from 250g of dried-leaf and 300g of dried-stem with each 200g of BG, PG and water (to 100) mixing for 72 hour at 50$\pm$5$\^{C}$ and then they were filtered by 400-mesh filter. Appearance of extract of leaves was slight brown, pH=5.3$\pm$0.5, gravity was 1.012$\pm$0.05, and a reflective index was 1.375$\pm$0.05. And appearance of extract of stems was slightly dark brown, pH=5.4$\pm$0.5, gravity was 1.016$\pm$0.05, and a reflective index was 1.358$\pm$0.05. It was extracted oil from Taxus seed. Gravity was 0.922$\pm$0.05 and it should be obtained the 27.0$\pm$0.5% of yield. The molecular weight of polysaccharide was about 50,000 to 300,000 dalton and contained 5.0$\pm$1.2% of yield from Taxus fruit. The determinations of total polyphenols in measuring spectropotometer got 0.563% in leaves, and 0.325% in stems, whereas the quantitives of total tannins got 0.054% and 0.037%, respectively. As the effects in Cosmetics by DPPH-method, the antioxidative activities were very strong that the inhibitory ratio showed 75% in leaves and 64% in stems compared with 52% in greentea extract. These are more effective than other plant extracts. The increasing ratio of collagen synthesis rate on the activating fibroblast for extracts of Taxus cuspidata Sieb showed 54.16% (stems) and 33.18% (leaves), To improve the skin elasticity, PPE(porcine pancreatic elastase)-inhibitory activities were strongly effective as 13,7% (stems), 23.5% (leaves) and 66%(seed). Anti-inflammatory acitvity of seed oil was very the above 41% stronger than SG was 24% of anti-Inflammatory as a control sample.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.217-224
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• 2019

Phthalates, endocrine disrupting chemicals, are similar in structure to sex hormones and mainly show reproductive toxicity and developmental toxicity. In this study, we analyzed 11 phthalates, including 3 kinds of phthalates prohibited in cosmetic use and 8 kinds of phthalates regulated in 'Common standards for children's products safety' and EU cosmetic regulation (EC No. 1223/2009). The phthalate analysis was optimized using GC-MS/MS. In analytical method validation, this method was satisfied in specificity, linearity, recovery rate, accuracy and MQL. Therefore, we used this method to analyze 82 products of Nail cosmetics & polish. Although six phthalates such as DBP, BBP, DEHP, DPP, DIBP and DIDP were detected at concentrations of $1.0{\sim}59.8{\mu}g/g$g, they were suitable to Korean cosmetic standards. DIBP and DBP were detected at concentration of $1.1{\sim}2.6{\mu}g/g$ in artificial nail, DBP and DEHP were $1.4{\sim}2.5{\mu}g/g$ in glue for nails, and DIBP, DBP, and DEHP were $2.5{\sim}33.3{\mu}g/g$ in nail stickers. Although substances such as DBP and DEHP in artificial nail, Glue for nails, and nail stickers were detected, they were suitable to 'Common safety standards for children's products. DIBP is not a regulated substance in Korea but showed the third highest detection rate following DBP (84.6%) and DEHP (63.4%). The concentration of phthalates detected in nail products is considered to be safe in current standards but continuous monitoring and research about non-regulated substances are also needed to be considered.

• Journal of Plant Biotechnology
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.117-124
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• 2018

The imports of Centella asiatica L. Urban are increasing year-by-year due to the fact that its extract is a raw material used for skin wounds and in cosmetics. However, studies on the cultivation and identification of native C. asiatica species in Korea have been extremely rare. Therefore, this study was conducted in order to investigate the physiological and functional activity of Korean native C. asiatica plant cultivated in Hapcheon, Gyeongsangnam-do, Korea. As a result, the highest antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities were examined with methanol extract while skin-whitening and wrinkle improvement were examined with water extract. Seven bacterium and one fungus were treated with 50% methanol extracts of C. asiatica and most of the bacterium showed similar or low levels of antibacterial activity compared to the control group of Omiza (Schisandra chinensis) extract, except for Streptococcus pyogenes, which showed higher antimicrobial activity than that of Omiza extract. However, neither C. asiatica and Omiza extracts showed antimicrobial activity against the fungus, C. albicans. The results of anti-inflammatory effect analyses with Raw 264.7 cells confirmed that the treatment of methanol extract reduced the level of NO by 50% or more compared to the control group. In addition, the water extract showed the highest reduction of melanin content of up to 20% more than the control group when examined with B16F10 cell line, indicating a significant skin-whitening effect. Furthermore, we were able to show the significant skin wrinkle improvement caused by C. asiatica extract with NHDF cell as an indicator, but strong cytotoxicity was also observed, suggesting that further studies are necessary.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.687-693
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• 2017

This research analyzed cell survival rate according to antioxidative effect and cytotoxicity using Sasa quelpaertensis and Ethanol extracts. Sasa quelpaertensis used extracts of $95^{\circ}C$ boiled-water extract and 70% ethanol liquid each. For total polyphenol content, tannin content, and flavonoid content, polyphenol content of $95^{\circ}C$ boiled-water extract was 26.6 mg/g while that of 70% ethanol extract liquid was 22.3 mg/g, which means polyphenol content was higher in $95^{\circ}C$ boiled-water extract. Tannin content was 72.1 mg/g in $95^{\circ}C$ boiled-water extract which was higher than 61.2 mg/g in 70% ethanol extract liquid. Total flavonoid content was higher in 70% ethanol extract liquid (25.4 mg/g) than in $95^{\circ}C$ boiled-water extract (17.8 mg/g). Further, the researcher measured DPPH radical elimination and ABTS radical elimination. As a result, as the concentration of each extract increased, DPPH radical elimination and ABTS radical elimination increased. In the DPPH radical elimination, L-ascorbic acid was eliminated at 500 ppm and showed no change even though the concentration increased, whereas it increased in BHT and Sasa quelpaertensis leaf extracts according to concentration. ABTS radical elimination indicated the similar phenomenon, whereas BHT showed maximum elimination at 500 ppm and decreased gradually as the concentration increased. On the other hand, it gradually increased in Sasa quelpaertensis leaf extract and showed 90% elimination at 10,000 pm, and it increased in $95^{\circ}C$ boiled-water extract. Using human skin fibroblasts (3T3) to check the cell survival rate of Sasa quelpaertensis leaves showed that cell survival rate decreased between 85.6 and 66.6% in $95^{\circ}C$ boiled-water extract. The cell survival rate was between 95.4 and 92.1% when using 70% ethanol extracts. Sasa quelpaertensis has efficacy as a natural antioxidant as well as a material hyangjang.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.571-582
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• 2004

Recently the well-being, which is regarded as the new cultural code, has brought a new change in the cosmetic industry. The application of the functional products is getting mere and lots of functional cosmetics are now diversifying from the skin-care into the make-up as well as the herbal products. So the future in the market of functional cosmetic products is prospected to be positive. Therefore, cosmetic companies need an approach bases on the concept of the well-being. So to speak, they need to understand the needs of customers accurately from the customers point of view. Also it is a crucial issue that how the unique characteristics of functional cosmetic products as well as the development of products base on the concept of well-being make in balance. In this study, we attempt to inspect the advanced domestic market of the functional products due to the well-being trend and try to propose an option of making an advance it through the customers survey (for example, their need and their satisfaction on the functional products, etc) on the functional cosmetic products. For this purpose, it has been surveyed on adult female customers aged 19 to 60 located in Seoul and Gyeonggi province. 379 questionnaires among 510 were used in the final analysis. Collected data was analyzed using the statistical package for the social science (SPSS) program that can give the information about the general characteristics of the subjects like the frequency and percentage. And we used Cronbach's u reliability test, $x^2\;(chi-square)$ frequency analysis, t-test, and one-wat ANOVA to investigate the customers need, their degree of the satisfaction on the functional products of their own, factors of their perception on the quality on them. We think that the results of our study can act not only as the fundamental data on the customers need, their usage pattern, and their degree of the satisfaction, but also as the important tips of planning the marketing strategies.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2012

In the present study, the antioxidative properties, inhibitory activity on tyrosinase, and active components of Eriobotrya japonica (E. japonica) leaf extract were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf was in the order 50 % ethanol extract ($22.625{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.75) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (5.06). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of fraction/extracton ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescenceassay were investigated. $OSC_{50}$ of the ethyl acetate fraction, deglycosylated aglycone fraction, and ethanol extract were 0.75, 0.79, and $1.61{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The cellular protective effects of E. japonica leaf extract on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The protective effects of extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf were increased in a in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$). Especially, ${\tau}50$ of ethyl acetate fraction at concentrations of $10{\mu}g/mL$ and $50{\mu}g/mL$ showed the most protective effects at 390.8 min and 1471.5 min. The inhibitory effect ($IC_50$) on tyrosinase of E. japonica leaf extracts was higher than arbutin, known as a skin-whitening agent. The order of inhibitory effects was acetate fraction ($75.25{\mu}g/mL$) < 50 % extract (74.1) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (43.35). TLC of the ethyl acetate fraction showed 7 bands (EJL 1 - EJL 7). HPLC of the aglycone fraction exhibited 2 peaks, kaempferol and quercetin. The amounts of kaempferol and quercetin were 53.7 and 46.3 %. respectively. Therefore, The amounts of kaempferol and its glucoside were a little bit higher than quercetin and its glucoside in E. japonica leaf extract. Accordingly, these findings suggest that extracts/fractions of E. japonica leaf can function as antioxidants in biological systems, especially skin exposed to UV radiation, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Thus, the extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf may be used in novel functional cosmetics as antioxidants against skin photoaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.165-173
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• 2007

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative and cellular protective effects of Jeju native plant extracts. In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of new 37 plant extracts collected from self-growing plants in Jeju island. Their anti-oxidant activities were measured by the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) radical scavenging assay and reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging assay in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system. The cytoprotective properties of 37 plant extracts were assessed in the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes. The inhibitory effect of 37 plant extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The results showed that the extracts of Myrica rubra stem bark and Securinega suffruticosa have the free radical scavenging activity($FSC_{50}:\;5,\;8{\mu}g/mL$, respectively), and the extracts of Quercus acutissima leaf and Securinega suffruticosa stem bark have the prominent ROS scavenging activity($OSC_{50}:\;0.009{\mu}g/mL$). Photohemolysis of erythrocytes in the presence of rose-bengal as a sensitizer was inhibited by the extracts of Securinega suffruticosa stem bark and Salix koreensis stem(${\tau}_{50}$, 895 min, 640 min at 50 ${\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Myrica rubra stem bark extract(77.8% at 200 ${\mu}g/mL$) and Salix koreensis stem extract(76.2% at 200 ${\mu}g/mL$) also have the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and elastase activities, respectively. These results indicated that the stem park of Myrica rubra, Securinega suffruticosa, and Camellia japonica, the stem of Salix koreensis, and the leaf of Quercus aqutissima and Camellia japonica could have e benefitial effects when they are added as ingredients in cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.1 s.55
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• pp.45-51
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• 2006

In the field of makeup cosmetics, especially, powder-based foundations such as two-way cake, pact and face powder, the quality of which is known to be strongly influenced by the properties of powder, surface treatment technology is widely used as a method to improve the various characteristics of powder texture, wear properties, dispersion ability and so on. The two-way cake or pressed-powder foundation is one of the familiar makeup products in Asian market for deep covering and finishing purpose. In spite of the relent progress in surface modification method such as composition of powders with different characteristics and application of a diversity of coating ingredient (metal soap, amino acid, silicone and fluorine), this product possess a technical difficulty to enhance both of the adhesion power and spreadability on the skin in addition to potential claim of consumer about heavy or thick feeling. This article is covering the preparation and coating method of nano-vesicle that mimic the double-layered lipid lamellar structure existing between the corneocytes of the stratum corneum in the skin for the purpose of improving both of two important physical characteristic of two-way cake, spreadability and adhering force to skin, and obtining better affinity to skin. Nano-vesicle was prepared using the high-pressure emulsifying process of lecithin, pseudo ceramide, butylene glycol and tocopheryl acetate. This nano-sized emulsion was added to powder-dispersed aqueous phase together with bivalent metal salt solution and then the filtering and drying procedure was followed to yield the nano-vesicle coated powder. The amount of nano-vesicle coated on the powder was able to regulated by the concentration of metal salt and this novel powder showed the lower friction coefficient, more uniform condition of application and higher adhesive powder comparing with the alkyl silane treated powder from the test result of spreadability and wear properties using friction meter and air jet method. Two-wav cake containing newly developed coated powder with nano-vesicle showed the similar advantages in the frictional and adhesive characteristics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.243-250
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• 2009

To develop a new natural whitening agent for cosmetics, we investigated the inhibitory effects of Poria cocos Bark extracts (PCBE) and its active compound on melanogenesis. PCBE showed ROS scavenging activities in 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the $IC_{50}$ values of $19.4{\pm}2.21{\mu}g$/mL and $IC_{50}=103{\pm}3.33{\mu}g$/mL, respectively. PCBE reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 34 % at concentration of $50{\mu}g$/mL. And PCBE reduced melanin contents of B16 melanoma cells about 51 % at concentration of $50{\mu}g$/mL without cell cytotoxicity (below $100{\mu}g$/mL). We purified one active compound from PCBE and identified its structure. It was identified as 3-$\beta$-hydroxylanosta-7,9(11),24-trien-4-oic acid, triterpene family, by $^1H$-NMR, $^{13}C$-NMR and Mass analysis. 3-$\beta$-hydroxylanosta-7,9(11),24-trien-4-oic acid showed ROS scavenging activities in DPPH radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the $IC_{50}$ values of $4.3{\pm}0.15{\mu}g$/mL and $54{\pm}1.67{\mu}g$/mL, respectively. Also, it was shown that 3-$\beta$-hydroxylanosta-7,9(11),24-trien-4-oic acid reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 43 % at concentration of $10{\mu}g$/mL. And it inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner ($IC_{50}=3.6{\mu}g$/mL) without cell cytotoxicity (below $100{\mu}g$/mL). 3-$\beta$-hydroxylanosta-7,9(11),24-trien-4-oic acid inhibited tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 expression at protein level. These results suggest that PCBE and 3-$\beta$-hydroxylanosta-7,9(11),24-trien-4-oic acid reduced melanin formation by the inhibition of tyrosinase activity and expression in B16 melanoma cells. Therefore, we suggest that PCBE could be used as a useful whitening agent.