A Study on the Effects of Taxus Extracts in Cosmetic Indurstry

Taxus cuspidata Sieb selected cultivation as drug, food and decorative plant in Kyong-gi province in Korea. As a manufacturing method, there were extracted from 250g of dried-leaf and 300g of dried-stem with each 200g of BG, PG and water (to 100) mixing for 72 hour at 50$\pm$5$\^{C}$ and then they were filtered by 400-mesh filter. Appearance of extract of leaves was slight brown, pH=5.3$\pm$0.5, gravity was 1.012$\pm$0.05, and a reflective index was 1.375$\pm$0.05. And appearance of extract of stems was slightly dark brown, pH=5.4$\pm$0.5, gravity was 1.016$\pm$0.05, and a reflective index was 1.358$\pm$0.05. It was extracted oil from Taxus seed. Gravity was 0.922$\pm$0.05 and it should be obtained the 27.0$\pm$0.5% of yield. The molecular weight of polysaccharide was about 50,000 to 300,000 dalton and contained 5.0$\pm$1.2% of yield from Taxus fruit. The determinations of total polyphenols in measuring spectropotometer got 0.563% in leaves, and 0.325% in stems, whereas the quantitives of total tannins got 0.054% and 0.037%, respectively. As the effects in Cosmetics by DPPH-method, the antioxidative activities were very strong that the inhibitory ratio showed 75% in leaves and 64% in stems compared with 52% in greentea extract. These are more effective than other plant extracts. The increasing ratio of collagen synthesis rate on the activating fibroblast for extracts of Taxus cuspidata Sieb showed 54.16% (stems) and 33.18% (leaves), To improve the skin elasticity, PPE(porcine pancreatic elastase)-inhibitory activities were strongly effective as 13,7% (stems), 23.5% (leaves) and 66%(seed). Anti-inflammatory acitvity of seed oil was very the above 41% stronger than SG was 24% of anti-Inflammatory as a control sample.

화장품산업에서 주목추출물의 효능에 관한 연구

주목(朱木)은 국내의 경기도 일대에서 약용, 식용, 관상수로써 재배한 것을 선정하였다. 주목의 250g의 잎과 300g의 줄기추출물은 butylene glycol (BG), Propylene glycol (PG)과 물을 사용하여 추출한 결과, 주목의 잎 추출물의 성상은 연한 갈색의 맑은 액으로, pH는 5.3$\pm$0.5, 비중은 1.012$\pm$0.05, 굴절율은 1.395$\pm$0.05이었다. 또한, 줄기 추출물의 성상은 연한 갈색의 맑은 액이 었으며, pH는 5.4$\pm$0.5, 비중은 1.012$\pm$0.05, 굴절율은 1.39$\pm$0.05이었다. 주목의 씨앗으로부터 오일을 분리하였고, 과육으로부터 polysaccharide를 고정제 추출하였다. 주목의 씨앗으로부터 얻어진 오일의 비중은 0.922$\pm$0.05, 27$\pm$0.5%의 수율을 얻을 수 있었다. 과육으로부터 얻어진 polysaccharide의 분자량은 50,000~300,000 dayton의 범위이며, 5$\pm$1.2%의 수율을 얻었다. 주목추출물의 총 polyphenols량은 잎에서는 0.563%, 줄기에서는 0.325%가 검출된 반면, 총 tannins량은 줄기와 잎에서 각각 0.054%와 0.037%를 함유하였다. 화장품에서의 효능으로써 DPPH 방법에 의한 항산화 효과는 잎에서는 75.0%, 줄기에서는 64.0%였다. Fibroblast에 의한 콜라겐 합성율은 줄기추출물은 54.16%, 잎추출물은 33.18%로 비교적 높은 활성을 보였다. 또한 PPE-inhibitors의 활성은 잎과 줄기에서 각각 13.7%와 23.5%였다. 주목씨앗 오일의 항염증 효과는 대조군인 1%의 감초추출물 24%보다 41%의 활성으로 우수한 효과를 나타내었다.