• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.282-291
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• 2010

Digital textile printing(DTP) is becoming more important because the production trend of textile printing goods is adapting to small-lot multiple items. Recently enhanced use of DTP is closely connected with production of high value-added products in fashion industry, which is also appropriate for quick response system(QRS). Quality of DTP depends on pre-treatment, after-treatment, ink, media, printer, etc. One of these parameters, Selection of good media is very important to obtain high quality of DTP products. Especially, the effects of media on printing quality of DTP according to yarn twist and structure of knitting fabric were examined in this study. Two types of yarn twist of 830 t.p.m and 1630 t.p.m for cotton knit were used and five types of media structures were knitted with single circular knitting machine. First, MIU, MMD, SMD's values are closely related with surface roughness of sample as well as printing quality. The hard twist samples were higher values than normal twist samples in the same media structure. In case of SMD, the values increased from plain to corduroy types. Second, aspect of line sharpness, line area, and line width values of hard twist samples decreased from plain to corduroy than those of normal twist samples. Third, line deviation values of hard twist samples, blurriness of line, also decreased than those of normal twist samples.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.183-199
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• 2015

This study aimed to systematize the apparel vendor work processes and provide useful information to future employees of clothing export units by analyzing the processes of vendors' manufacturing tasks. A survey of 20 apparel vendors servicing mainly U.S. buyers was conducted on employees of overseas business departments working for more than five years. buyers. Based on the results, vendors mainly manufactured cut-and-sew knit products. Regarding the production method, OEM was used more frequently than ODM. Fourteen (70%) companies used the ODM method. This suggests that vendors are expanding their production method from OEM to ODM. In order to summarize the work of each business based on the clothing production process research results, buyers were in charge of planning products and the vendors were in charge of sampling. Production of materials and the approval of material tests were out sourced. Overseas factories of vendors were in charge of bulk (mass) production and garment finishing, as well as packaging and shipping the completed products. Even though the vendors' head offices do not directly produce clothes, they play a pivotal role in ensuring planning and management progress in clothing production. As buyers prefer direct contracts for cost reduction, the vendor additionally performs the role of an agent. Also, with the increase in ODM production ratio, the work area of the vendor is expanding. If Korean clothing exporters improve their global competitiveness by investing in the R&D of materials and design to enhance the ODM method, the development of Korea's clothing and export industry will benefit significantly.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.325-335
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• 2011

This study analyzes the current educational curricula in the field of Clothing and Textiles in order to develop appropriate educational methods and courses. We reviewed the curricula offered by 58 Clothing and Textiles Departments at four-year universities in Korea. We analyzed the educational content of each curriculum by dividing all of the courses offered into eight categories. The analysis was based on the information posted on the universities' Internet websites, and the analysis was performed by using descriptive statistics. The results of this study are as follows: First, the educational courses of the Clothing and Textiles Departments are composed of, 36.2% design, 20.4% production, and 14.5% textile categories. In comparison with the results of a similar study conducted in 1999, emphases on the design, distribution, and marketing categories have increased, while the emphases on the production, apparel material, basic knowledge, and consumption science categories have decreased. Second, in the case of the apparel material category, basic knowledge of materials constituted 18.5%, the largest part of the category. The average number of units offered in the area of apparel materials by the 58 Departments was 17 units per year. The curricula were found to vary by regions of the country. The universities located in the Chungcheong region offer more textile material courses, but the universities in the Capital region offer fewer textile material courses than other regions. Departments that are affiliated with universities that emphasize Art and Design have more courses on basic knowledge, dyeing and finishing, and fabric design than other universities.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.390-408
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• 2018

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis' collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.752-763
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop an effective marketing strategy for socks made of paper mulberry fiber, a new natural fiber, by understanding consumers' concerns and perception about the product and its quality in several dimensions. The first survey determined their perception of the products' image before using it. The second survey gauged consumer satisfaction with product quality after a two-week home-use test. Factor analysis using Cronbach's a and ANOVA analysis were performed for statistical analysis. In conclusion, consumer image perceptions of socks of mulberry fiber were classified into four categories -'practicality', 'wellbeing', 'high-quality' and 'traditionality'. The survey revealed differences between men's and women's perception of the 'practicality' and 'high-quality' factors. The women recognized a mulberry fiber sock as being more practical but of lower quality than did the men. And the quality satisfaction of the product was classified into four factor 'durability', 'suitability, 'wearability' and 'care-easiness'. In the case of 'suitability', men were more satisfied with the product than the women and in 'suitability' and 'wearability', a group of over 40' year-old consumers was more satisfied. The analysis of a relationship between image perception and satisfaction showed that a consumer group that perceived this product to have more 'practicality', 'high-quality' and 'well-being' was also more satisfied with the product. However, the 'traditionality' factor was unrelated to consumer satisfaction.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.116-135
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• 2008

To investigate the actual distribution condition and clothing construction factors of the working clothes supplied to the Changwon national industrial complex, 5 major companies in machinery, automotive, industrial engineering, shipbuilding and rolling stock in the industrial complex located in Gyeongsangnam-Do were selected. The questionnaire designed for the research consisted of working clothes distribution policies in manufacturing industry and the actual conditions of the design facts, repair and maintenance of the working clothes, etc. The analysis of the clothing construction factors of the working clothes provided by 5 respondent companies were conducted in parallel. The results derived from the study were as follows: The basic types of working clothes were the blouson jacket and straight pants; safety equipments for manufacture were safety helmets, gloves, snickers, goggles, masks, ear caps, wristlets, leggings, apron, etc. The size-charts adopted by the participant companies were the small-medium-large and cm/inch measurement size systems. To solve wearer's dissatisfaction with the garment fit, certain clothing construction factors were used, e.g. strap bands and the elastic band on a waist band. The types of fabrics used for the working clothes were mainly polyester/cotton and polyester/rayon blended ones. Moreover, to provide with more air permeability to wearers, the warp knit material was used to construct the lining and the armpit or back bodice slits. Lock, two-thread chain, safety, overedge stitches were applied with flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped, bound and edge finishing seams to construct the working clothes selected.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.98-113
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• 2013

This study is an attempt to analyze the daily life of the Western-yearning Seoul citizens and the inflow of the Western culture into certain social classes. The customs of the characters in the film are studied to illustrate the process of deconstruction of Korean traditional clothes due to the Western influence. The combined application of the Western and Korean styles is also observed. All this study leads to the sense of homogeneity of the times and the conformity to the culture the Korean women shared, which boils down to the social identity of the Korean women who sought an escape from the men-centered social structure by displaying their competence in the field of global modern fashion. As Seonyeong Oh, the main character of the film, , was wearing in the movie the Korean traditional dress, socks, rubber shoes, and then a western-style coat, it well shows that in 1950's, the traditional dress and ornaments were mixed with Western styles. In time, men's wear were completely changed from the traditional Korean clothes to suits, while women's could not break off from the traditional clothes and become westernized, which indicates that the men-centered conservative ideas to keep women within the feudal regime of the society remained. The military look of Seonyeong Oh while she was acting in the society was a symbol of anti-bias against women and anti-convention as well as the will of freedom as an independent woman. Besides, the modern girls would wear clothes of military fashion, Dior's trapeze line, and knit styles flattering the figures. All these well show their desires to embrace Western cultures, especially their dress fashions as well as manners as so-called enlightened ladies. All these elements show that the director was trying to represent the progress of the drama, characters, and psychological states by means of the dress and ornaments.

• 한국컴퓨터그래픽스학회논문지
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.15-24
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 주어진 옷감 시료의 정적 드레이프 모양으로부터 해당 옷감을 시뮬레이션하기 위해 필요한 시뮬레이션 파라미터를 추정하는 데이터 기반 학습법을 제시한다. 정적 드레이프의 모양을 형성하기 위해 의류 산업계에서 옷감을 물성에 따라 분류하기 위해 사용하는 쿠식 드레이프 (Cusick's drape)에서 착안한 방법을 사용한다. 학습 모델의 입력 벡터는 특정 옷감의 정적 드레이프 모양에서 추출한 특징 벡터와 옷감의 밀도 값으로 구성되고, 출력 벡터는 해당 드레이프 결과를 도출하는 여섯가지 시뮬레이션 파라미터로 구성된다. 실제에 가깝고 편향되지 않은 학습 데이터를 생성하고자 먼저 400가지의 실제 니트 옷감에 대한 시뮬레이션 파라미터를 수집하고 이로부터 GMM (Gaussian mixture model) 생성 모델을 만든다. 다음, GMM 확률분포에 따라 대량의 시뮬레이션 파라미터를 무작위 샘플링한다. 샘플링된 각각의 시뮬레이션 파라미터에 대해 옷감 시뮬레이션을 수행하여 가상의 정적 드레이프 결과를 만들고 이로부터 특징 벡터를 추출한다. 생성된 데이터를 로그선형회기(log-linear regression) 모델로 피팅한다. 학습의 수치적 정확도를 검증하고 시뮬레이션 결과의 시각적 유사도를 비교하여 제시된 방법의 유용성을 확인한다.