• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.63-73
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to quantify the hands of fabrics for the Korean folk clothes using both a KES-FB and an artificial neural network. In order to select the proper input parameters, we calculated the correlation using step-wise regression between mechanical properties and the hand value of fabrics. For the classification, the primary hand values and total hand value, five neural networks with three-layered structure were constructed using the error back propagation algorithm and, in order to reduce errors and to speed up learning, the momentum method was selected. From the analysis of the primary and total hands using a self-constructed artificial intelligence system, the error rates of sleekness, stiffness, silkiness, and roughness compared with the judgement of expert panels were found to be 3.3%, 3.3%, 1.6%, and 4.9%, respectively, while that of the total hand was 9.83%.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.152-156
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• 2001

Three different silicone polymer systems, such as aminofunctional, epoxyfunctional, and hydrophilic epoxyfunctional silicone polymers, were applied onto plasma pretreated wool fabric to improve the dimensional properties. The results showed that the plasma pretreatment modified the cuticle surface of the wool fiber and increased the reactivity of wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Felting shrinkage of plasma and silicone treated wool fabric was decreased with different level depending on the applied polymer system. Fabric tear strength and hand were adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties were favorably restored on polymer application. Therefore, it has been concluded that the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can achieve the improved dimensional stability, and better performance properties of wool fabric. The surface smoothness appearances of treated fabrics were measured using a new evaluation system, which showed good correspondence with the results of KES-FB4 surface tester.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.20-24
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• 2001

The primary objective of this study was to empirically explore the mechanical properties of marketing Korean fabrics by using KES-FB system and estimate the sewability of Korean clothes by the mechanical properties. From the empirical research, it was found that Korean fabrics for spring and summer has been transformed easier and less flexible by shearing Korean fabrics for autumn and winter. Also, it was found that there is a significant difference in the hand value as tensile, surface and compression. It was found that Korean fabrics for spring and summer has a stiffness and elastic properties of matter and Korean fabrics for autumn and winter has a bulky and abundant elasticity. Finally, it was found that Korean fabrics for autumn and summer in the joint of account of the mechanical properties. Also, the difficulties of process has been expected by sewability like seam-pucker, over feed, sewing and steam-press.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.452-459
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• 1994

Fabric hand was assessed for 14 women's spring-fall dress fabrics based on the subjective hand evaluation scale developed in the part 1 of this study. The effects of fabric type, seam and dress style on the subjective hand evaluation of 470 Korean consumers (205 textile experts and 265 non-experts) were investigated. Mechanical properties obtained from KES-FB system were compared with the each dimension of subjective hand expression. The type of fiber and construction were considered to be important factors in affecting hand assessment of Korean consumers, however, the presence and type of seam were not considered to be important. There were certain characteristics of subjective hand attributes for each dress style. Surface properties of fabrics, even though it is not strictly mechanical properties, appeared to be the most effective dimension in the developement of new products which appeal to Korean conssumers.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2008.10a
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• pp.59-60
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• 2008

본 연구는 섬유의 구조적, 광학적 설계에 의해 빛의 간섭현상을 이용하여 색을 발현하는 구조발색 의류소재의 개발을 위하여 삼각단면의 구조발색섬유를 방사하고 직물을 제직한후 온도와 시간에 따른 삼각단면 섬유소재의 감량조건을 달리하여 그에 따른 $Prism^{(R)}$ 의류용 직물의 역학물성 및 태 특성을 측정하였다. 역학물성에는 인장특성, 인열특성을 측정하였으며 KES-FB system을 이용하여 역학물성을 측정 후 Hand value를 산출하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.987-994
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• 2000

Cotton fabrics were finished with mixture of BTCA and silicone by pad-dry-cure process to achieve better mechanical properties than those of finished with BTCA alone. The changes of mechanical properties o( finished cotton fabrics were measured with by the KES-FB System and the hand values were calculated from the data of mechanical properties. With the durable press finish with BTCA tensile, bending, shear and compression properties increased. In hand values, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness increased, and Fullness & Softness decreased. Whereas silicone treatment reduced bending and shear properties and improved tensile and compressional resilience. Thus, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness decreased, and Fullness & Softness increased. These results indicated that BTCA treatment restricts fiber/yarn mobility in the fabric structure due to crosslinking, but silicone treatment reduces inter-fiber and inter-yarn frictional forces. Therefore, finish with mixture of BTCA and silicone provided cotton fabrics with a lower Stiffness, Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness and a higher Fullness & Softnesss than finish with BTCA alone.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.101-105
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• 2005

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these loom characteristics using KES-FB system. The paper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yarn and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yarn by projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.765-771
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• 2004

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these looms characteristics using KES-FB system. Raper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yam and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yam by rapier looms such as FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and PICANOL-GTX respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.792-800
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• 1996

The shape retention finishing provides a fabric for easiness of no-ironing after laundering. In spite of the obvious importance of the new finishing treatment, few systematic studies have been performed on the handle of the fabrics finished by the durable press process. The purpose of this research is to investigate the relationships among the mechanical properties, durable press conditions, primary hand values and the total hand value of the fabrics finished by shape retention process. In this experiment, durable press grade of unfinished fabrics decreased below 2.5, but those of finished fabrics maintained above 4, but the mechanical properties of finished fabrics did not change significantly after laundering. In finished fabrics, D.P. value were correlated with mechanical properties, but had little effects with H.V. and T.H.V. Since the evaluation of the effect of durable press process was done with the naked eyes and standard sample, we could not know exactly change o( mechanical properties, but trace the change of mechanical properties which gave influences on the durable press effects by using KES-FB System.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 1999.03a
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• pp.265-269
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• 1999

This study was carried out to evaluate human subjective sensation for fabric rustling sounds and predict the sensation with quantified sound color measurements and mechanical properties of fabrics. Thirty subjects at Virginia Tech were asked to evaluate seven sound sensation descriptors by semantic differential scale after hearing eight different fabric sounds. Sound measurements were quantified by calculating total sound pressure(LPT), level range(ΔL), and frequency difference (Δf). Mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-FB. Subjective sensation for fabric sound showed significant differences among fabrics except clearness sensation. Subjective sensation predicted by sound measurements showed well fitted regression equation with ΔL and LPT> Sharpness, clearness, and highness were significantly released with mechanical properties of fabrics. All sensation was found to be predicted with sound measurements L:PT and Δf and mechanical properties such as LT, 2HG5, WC, T, and W.