Effects of Rapier Weaving Machine Characteristics on the Physical Properties of Worsted Fabrics for Garment (I) - Tension Characteristics & Loom Mechanism -

래피어 직기 특성이 의류용 모직물 물성에 미치는 영향(I) - 장력특성과 직기 매카니즘 -

  • 김승진 (영남대학교 섬유패션학부) ;
  • 강지만 (영남대학교 섬유패션학부)
  • Received : 2004.07.20
  • Published : 2004.12.31

Abstract

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these looms characteristics using KES-FB system. Raper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yam and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yam by rapier looms such as FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and PICANOL-GTX respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

Keywords

References

  1. 김승진 . 이재곤 . 유기한 (1984) 부분전경에서의 몇가지 요인이 직물특성에 미치는 영향. 한국섬유공학회지, 21(6), 416-427
  2. 김승진 . 오애경 . 박정환 (1992) 직물역학특성과 의류봉재성능. 한국섬유공학회지, 29(8), 537-558
  3. 신재균 . 채영석 . 윤원식 . 김호성 . 박명환 (1997) 레피어 직기의 위입 구동부에 대한 기구학적 고찰. 한국섬유공학회지, 34(11), 801-808
  4. 허유 . 이상택 . 류운영 . 우제린 (1994) 제직공정에서 제직 시동조건이 품질에 미치는 영향. 한국섬유공학회지, 31(2), 111-118
  5. 허유 (1990) 제직공정중 기본하중에 따른 공정변수로서의 경사군 장력변동에 관한 연구. 한국섬유공학회지, 27(12), 49-55
  6. 홍성철 . 김승진 . 김석근 (2000) 모직물의 제직 및 가공조건에 따른 직물역학특성 변화에 관한 연구. 한국염색가공학회, 12(3), 159-165
  7. Blanchonette I. (1996) Tension measurements in weaving of singles worsted wool yarns. Textile Research Journal, 66, 323 https://doi.org/10.1177/004051759606600506
  8. Beitelschmidt M. (2000) Simulation of warp and cloth forces in weaving machines. Melliland, 1, E11-E13
  9. Kim S.J. and Yeo G.D. (1999) Fabric weavability and machine efficiency in the various weaving machines such as projectile. rapiers and air-jet, CITC, Brazil
  10. Weinsdorfer H., Lange A. and Scholze U. (1990) Weft thread tensions on a rapier weaving machine. Melliland, 71, 432-436
  11. Weisdorfer H., Woolfrum J. and Stark U. (1991) The distribution of the warp end tension over the warp width and how it is influenced by the weaving machine settings. Melliland, 11, E360-E363