• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.105-110
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 다양한 천연염색 재료로 염색한 한지직물을 활용하여 모자 두 개와 노트북 가방을 문화상품으로 개발·제작하였다. 그를 위하여 첫째, 우수한 내구성과 기능성을 가진 우리나라의 전통 한지로 만들어진 한지직물을 문화상품 개발을 위한 소재로 선택하고, 둘째, 그것을 천연염색 재료인 쪽으로 푸른 색, 떫은 감물로 갈색, 홍화에 의하여 붉은 색, 황벽으로 노란 색 그리고 자근으로 자주색으로 염색하였다. 셋째, 문화상품으로 개발하고자 하는 모자와 노트북 가방을 디자인하였다. 넷째, 디자인한 모자와 노트북 가방의 패턴을 제작하고, 그것에 따라 다양한 색으로 천연염색한 한지직물을 재단·봉제하여 완성한 두 개의 모자와 노트북 가방을 제시하였다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.317-326
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• 1999

한국전통색이란 시대를 초월하여 한국민족의 삶속에 살아있는 색이다. 이러한 전통색 중 한국전통색을 대표하는 청·홍의 색조특성을 알아보기 위하여 조선시대의 색명과 염직유물의 색조를 조사하였다. 한국전통색 청·홍의 색조를 조사하기 위해여 먼저 조선시대의 문헌을 통하여 출현색명을 조사하였다. 색조를 나타내는 한국말에는 대단히 다양한 형용사가 앞에 붙어 색조를 특징짓는다. 색명에는 여러유형의 형용사들이 앞에 붙는데, 그 중에 대표적인 것은 농색과 담색을 나타내는 형용사들이다. 이처럼 제한된 색명의 가능성을 증가시키기 위하여 조선인들은 다양한 톤의 청색계(32색)와 홍색계(40개)의 색명을 만들어 내었다. 이러한 청·홍색계의 출현율은 대단히 높고, 조선시대의 궁중복식에서도 주조색으로서 사용되었다. 조선인은 다양한 청·홍색계의 배색으로 그들의 음양론에 기초한 색체관과 세련된 미의식을 표현하였다. 박물관에 있는 염직유물들의 색체는 측색되어 먼셀컬러시스템과 ISCC-NBS의 계통색명법에 의해 분류되고, 고찰되었다. 또한 전통색조인 남염과 홍화염이 산업체에서 이용되어지도록, 남염과 홍화염의 염색방법을 계량화하여, 데이터를 제시하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.755-768
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• 2014

This study explores the situation of domestic production and import of dyes as well as type of dye supplier and type of dyer in the Joseon Dynasty based on an analysis of relevant documents. The findings are as follows. Many kinds of natural dyes and natural mordant were produced in the Joseon Dynasty. Some were imported from other countries when in short supply or for diplomatic reasons. As the government organization in charge of the dyes supply and demand, the Jeyonggam was cooperated with the Gongin merchants. As private merchants, there existed Hwapijeon merchants and Cheongramgye merchants. Cheongramgye merchants were both the producer and the seller of indigo sediment. There existed two types of dyers, such as government-operated dyers and private dyers. The Yeomjang (master dyers) and Yeommo (female dyers) were subjugated to government departments in the early part of Joseon Dynasty, but gradually allowed to pursue self-profit. The Yeomga was the private dye house that existed in the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. Ladies and female servants were also allowed to dye for family use or to help in livelihoods. Jeonyeomga was a branch specialized in indigo dyeing. Lastly, the Yoemgye were the merchants of dyed paper and textiles as well as dyers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.911-921
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• 1997

Recently the interest in natural dyeing has been increased because of the color clarity, natural grace and reactionism in fashion. Indigo dyeing, safflower dyeing and Gal-ott in Cheju-Do become generally known, so the study about the natural dyeing is continued with national intrust and support. In this study, 1 used artemisia for various dyeing tests because we can get it easily. 1 tested the dyeability in wool as well as cotton and silk with wormwood in natural dyeing material. I also dyed nylon with the same material for the comparison of the molecular structure. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment were done in cotton to improve the low dyeability in the natural dyeing. The result of this study are as follows; We have to dye repeatedly to get deep color in natural dyeing, and mordant treatment brought good result in color difference and dyeing fastness. 1. Compared with silk, wool and nylon, the dyeability of cotton was the worse. The color difference of cotton was 18.81 without mordants , and 24.05 with mordant. The dyeability of cotton was much increased by mordants such as potassiumdichromate, copper sulfate, iron sulfate and salt water. The color of cotton was turned into yellow-green in potassium dichromate and yellow-green with deep green in copper sulfate. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment of cotton made the improvement in color, dyeability, laundering fastness, abrasion fastness. 2. The color difference of silk was 3 times as high as cotton. It showed the similar degree with the chitosan treated-cotton. That is to say, silk had good dyeability because it contains amino group and carboxyl group. The dyebility of silk was increased by a mordant such as iron sulfate, potassium dichromate and salt water, Drycleaning fastness showed 5 grade, abrasion-fastness was high over 4~5 grade and sunlight fastness showed 1 grade in all case. 3. The color difference of wool was the best among four fabrics because of 18 kinds of amino acids. It is considered that the sulfate of wool has the polarity and help metal- mordants get the better dyeability such as potassium dichromate, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, and aluminum chloride. The color was reddish-green in potassium dichromate, yellow.greenin iron sulfate and copper sulfate, and yellow in the rest mordants. Drycleaning fastness of wool showed over 4~5 grade, abrasion fastness 5 grade. Sunlight-fastness 1 grade. 4. The dyeability of nylon was almost same because of the similar molecular structure with silk. The clarity of color was poor. The color was yellow-green in copper sulfate and yellow in the rest mordants. Laundering fastness and abrasion-fastness of nylon was good. Sunlight- fastness represented 1 grade.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.408-415
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• 2013

In order to evaluate a feasibility of industrial art use of veneer such as cylindrical laminated veneer lumber, the veneers of 4 species of Korean pine, radiata pine, yellow poplar and Japanese cypress were natural dye-colored and clear finished. Natural dyes were red color originated from sappanwood, blue color from polygonum indigo, and yellow color from Amur cork tree and gardenia. the clear coats of crack seal clear and UV protection oil were applied on the dyed veneer. The dyeing and finishing characteristics through fading test were summarized as follows; In non-dyed and non-finished Korean pine veneer, lightness was decreased and yellow and red hues increased after fading test. In natural dyed- and finished-veneer, color difference of gardenia-mixed Amur cork tree was generally highest, and that of polygonum indigo was lowest. Compared to non-treatment of veneers of Korean pine and yellow poplar, color difference decreasing effect by finishing was shown in crack seal clear and UV protection oil. In addition, UV protection oil was more favorable than crack seal clear with more decreased color difference. In result, maximum values of color difference after fading for 8 days were recorded about 16 to 20, which are remarked 'very much' of 12.1 or more when reviewing with 'National bureau of standards unit in USA'.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.15-28
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• 2017

Today, modern people are exposed to various environmental pollutants such as harmful substances and stress, which can compromise health. Therefore, a healing culture that seeks to enjoy human life based on the healing of body and mind is attracting great attention. The purpose of this study is to develop environmentally friendly natural dyeing considering a healing concept with four elements: color, dye, material, and pattern. The research methods and scope are based on a theoretical review of healing and research on the literature of bedding related to natural dyes, national and international books, the Internet, etc., and naturally dyed bedding. This paper presents actual production research. The results of this study are as follows. First, the elements of color, dyeing, material and pattern were developed through the process of a bedding design development model that applies a healing concept and can be commercialized as a healing bedding product. Second, a healing color proposal was expressed in an intermediate color system of pink, ocher, lavender, and indigo colors for emotional stability, warmth, calmness, comfort and softness. Third, eco-friendly bedding using natural dyes with medicinal efficacy can obtain the healing effect of the natural treatment method, which can aid healthy sleep. Fourth, the pattern used in the bedclothes was a motif of Sarasa embroidery, flower embroidery, ribbon embroidery, and wave quilting motifs to provide psychological stability as a healing concept in the sleeping environment. The natural healing bedding with the healing concept proposed in this study has natural treatment that is beneficial to human health and the development of bedding with natural dyes will lead to an increase of demand for the sleeping environment.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2012년도 제46차 학술발표회
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• pp.101-101
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• 2012

천연가죽에 색상을 부여하기 위한 염색공정에서 종전의 합성염료가 아닌 자연에서 추출한 천연염료를 이용하여 블루색상을 가지는 피혁 제조 공정을 확립하였다. 피혁에 적용 가능한 블루색상을 가지는 천연염료 중에 쪽 염료가 유일한 상황이다. 가죽 무게 대비 5%의 쪽염료를 가죽 제조 드럼에 투입하여 100분간 충분히 회전시킨 후에 가죽의 유연성을 부여하는 가지제를 12% 추가로 투입하여 블루 색상을 가지는 가죽을 제조하였다. 그 결과 마찰견뢰도, 일광견뢰도, K/S가 우수한 피혁 염색공정을 확립하였다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.166-177
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• 2022

시베트 하이르한 유적은 알타이지역 바양 울기 아이막 가운데 쳉겔 솜에 위치하며 다양한 유적이 확인된 유라시아 초원의 중요한 지역이다. 본 연구에서는 몽골 시베트 하이르한 유적의 1~3세기 선비 시기 고분에서 출토된 직물의 섬유와 염료의 특성을 조사하였다. 섬유 식별을 위해 현미경 관찰과 감쇠전반사 푸리에 변환 적외선 분광기를 이용해 분석한 결과, 녹색과 황색 직물은 견직물로 확인되었다. 염료의 분석은 비파괴 분석이 가능한 자외-가시광분광광도계를 이용하여 염직물의 표면 반사도를 측정하였다. 그 결과 녹색 직물은 인디고 염료의 반사스펙트럼과 유사하게 나타났다. 또한 기체 크로마토그래피-질량분석기를 이용한 성분 분석 결과에서도 인디고 염료의 이사틴과 인디고틴이 검출되었다. 이사틴과 인디고틴은 인디고 염료의 특성 성분으로 선비 시기 고분의 녹색 직물은 인디고 염료를 사용하여 염색한 것을 알 수 있었다. 황색 직물은 반사스펙트럼과 기체 크로마토그래피-질량분석 결과 염료의 종류를 규명하기 어려웠다. 인디고 식물은 수천 년 전부터 청색계 염색에 사용하는 염료이자 전 세계에 다수 종이 분포한다. 선비 시기 고분에서 출토된 직령의(直領衣)는 약 1,800년의 시간이 지났음에도 녹색 직물에서 인디고 염료 성분인 인디고틴과 이사틴이 잘 남아있음을 확인할 수 있었다. 직물 문화재에 대한 과학적 조사는 보존처리, 원형 복원, 전시 및 보존환경 조성 등을 위해 필수적인 과정이다. 앞으로도 관련 연구가 활성화되어 당시 생활 문화 해석과 직물 문화재의 보존처리 및 보존환경 조성에 도움이 되길 기대한다.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.