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http://dx.doi.org/10.22755/kjchs.2022.55.4.166

Analysis of an ancient textiles from the Xianbei period tombs of the Shiveet Khairkhan site, Mongolia  

YUN Eunyoung (Conservation Science Division, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage)
YU Jia (Conservation Science Division, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage)
PARK Serin (Conservation Science Division, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage)
AN Boyeon (Cultural Heritage Conservation Science Center, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage)
Publication Information
Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science / v.55, no.4, 2022 , pp. 166-177 More about this Journal
Abstract
The Shiveet Khairkhan is located on Tsengel Som in the middle of Bayan-ulgi Aimag in the Altai region. Various remains have been identified, and it has been found to be an important area of the Eurasian steppe. In this study, the characteristics of textile fibers and dyes excavated from the tombs of the 1st~3rd century Xianbei period in the sites of Shiveet Khairkhan, Mongolia were investigated. As a result of analysis using optical microscopic observation and attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) for fiber identification, green and yellow fabrics were identified as silk fabrics. To investigate the properties of the dye, the surface reflectance of the dyed fabric was measured using an fiber optic reflectance spectrophotometer for non-destructive analysis. The green fabric appeared similar to the reflection spectrum of indigo dye. In addition, as a result of component analysis using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, isatin and indigotine were detected. Isatin and indigotine are characteristic components of indigo dye, and it was found that the green fabric of the tombs of the Xianbei period was dyed using indigo dye. It was difficult to identify the type of dye in the yellow fabric as a result of reflectance spectrum and gas chromatography analysis. Indigo plants are a dye used for blue dyeing from thousands of years ago, and many species are distributed around the world. It was confirmed that the fabric was relatively well preserved and indigo dye was used for the green Jikryeongui (garment with a straight collar) in the ancient tomb of the Xianbei period about 1,800 years ago, even though it was buried for a long time. Scientific investigation of textile cultural heritage is an essential process for conservation treatment, restoration, exhibition, and the creation of a conservation environment. It is expected that related research will be activated in the future and will be helpful in interpreting the living culture at the time, preserving textiles, and a conservation environment.
Keywords
Silk textiles; Indigo dye; Identification fabric; Dye analysis; Mongolia;
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Times Cited By KSCI : 1  (Citation Analysis)
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