• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
• /
• v.36 no.3
• /
• pp.821-829
• /
• 2019

This study was conducted to evaluate the applicability of the extracts from nipa palm, molokhia, and finger root in functional cosmetics as a natural active ingredient. The extracts were obtained through the processes of heating under reflux with ethanol, filtration, concentration, and freeze-drying. UV absorption and blocking effects of the extracts were examined by using the UV-vis spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. Antioxidant activity and its stability between the extracts were compared using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay. Also, total polyphenol content in the extracts was determined quantitatively using the Folin-Ciocalteu reagent, with gallic acid as the standard. Antibacterial activity of the extracts was investigated by the disc diffusion test against Staphylococcus aureus (gram-positive) and Escherichia coli (gram-negative). Finally, collagenase inhibitor assay was performed to examine the anti-wrinkle effect of the extracts. From the results of this study, the extract of nipa palm showed the potential for use in cosmetics as an antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agent, and the extract of finger root as a sunscreen and antibacterial agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.45 no.4
• /
• pp.399-408
• /
• 2019

Arbutin, which is used as a whitening ingredient, can produce hydroquinone, known as causing skin disease and carcinogen. Preservatives are essential to prevent microbial contamination during long-term storage and use of cosmetics, but safety issues such as toxicity and skin irritation are being raised. This study was conducted to determine hydroquinone and 21 preservatives levels in 40 arbutin-containing whitening functional cosmetics sold on-line and off-line. Result showed that 9 products contained hydroquinone. The concentrations in 7 products were ranged from 0.3 to 0.9 ppm, which were within the maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. However, 2 products were 8.4 and 50.5 ppm and exceeded the allowed amount. Preservatives were detected 20 products. Detected items and ranges were phenoxy ethanol 0.1 ~ 0.7% (N = 15), Methyl paraben 0.19 ~ 0.21% (N = 2), Chlorphenesin 0.13% (N = 1), chlorhexidine 0.006% (N = 1), Propyl paraben 0.06% (N = 1), which were within maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. Also, in cases of functional cosmetics the phrase "functional cosmetics" should be expressed on the primary or secondary package of cosmetics by cosmetics act. However, 1 product did not state the phrase as functional cosmetics. This study suggest that preservatives were safely managed. However, hydroquinone in hydroquinone-detected products could be produced by the decomposition of arbutin. Thus, further studies on the decomposition of arbutin are required to improve the quality control of the cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.38 no.4
• /
• pp.297-304
• /
• 2012

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory activities on tyrosinase of Lindera obtusiloba Blume (L. obtusiloba Blume) extracts were investigated. 50 % ethanol extract, ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions of L. obtusiloba Blume were used in experiments. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activities of ethyl acetate fraction of L. obtusiloba Blume was higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, known as a typical antioxidant. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities of extract and fractions of L. obtusiloba Blume on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were similar to L-ascorbic acid, well known as a strong antioxidant. The cellular protective effects of 50 % ethanol extract and ethyl acetate of L. obtusiloba Blume on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim}25{\mu}g/mL$). Ethyl acetate fraction in $10{\mu}g/mL$ concentration showed the most protective effect among extracts (${\tau}_{50}$ = 361.0 min). The inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions were higher than arbutin, known as a whitening agent. These results indicate that L. obtusiloba Blume extracts can be used as antioxidant, and could be applicable to functional cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.31 no.3 s.52
• /
• pp.219-236
• /
• 2005

Glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from fruit and milk sugars, has been commonly used as a cosmetic ingredient since it was known to have photo-protective, anti-inflammatory effects, and anti-oxidant effect in UV-irradiated skin. However, little has been know about the functional role of glycolic acid on UV-induced skin cell proliferation. It was previously found that glycolic acid inhibited UV-induced skin tumor development in hairless mouse. As a possible mechanism of glycolic acid on the UV-induced skin tumor development, the ability of glycolic acid to inhibit the UVB-induced cell growth and possible mechanisms were investigated. Glycolic acid treatment attenuated the UV-induced cell proliferation and apoptotic cell death in the skin. In vitro study, glycolic acid inhibited the UVB-induced cell growth and apoptotic death through inhibiting caspase-3 activity. These results suggest that glycolic acid may exert the Inhibitory effect on the UVB-induced skin tumor development by regulating cell growth and apoptotic cell death.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.42 no.3
• /
• pp.257-268
• /
• 2016

The functions of anti-oxidation and anti-inflammation were investigated with the crude 80% methanol extract, subfractions and henryin isolated from Isodon inflexus (Thunb.) Kudo (I. inflexus (Thunb.) Kudo). Antioxidative ability was evaluated by bioassays using 2, 2-diphenyl-1-1-picrydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging activity, xanthine oxidase inhibition, and superoxide radical scavenging effects. Ethyl acetate and butanol fractions exhibited free radical scavenging activity on superoxide with $IC_{50}$ values of $0.9{\mu}g/mL$, $0.2{\mu}g/mL$, respectively, which were stronger activity than that of allopurinol ($2.2{\mu}g/mL$) as reference. For the inhibition of anti-inflammatory activity in RAW 264.7 cell, the ethyl acetate fraction showed strong inhibition activity NO production, and henryin isolated from its subfraction reduced the activity in a dose-dependent manner. Ethyl acetate fraction and henryin suppressed not only mRNA expression of iNOS and COX-2, but also the mRNA expression of pre-inflammatory cytokines such as, TNF-${\alpha}$, 1L-$1{\beta}$, IL-6, in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggested that ethyl acetate fraction of I. inflexus (Thunb.) Kudo has considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects and henryin can be applied as an functional reference.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
• /
• v.36 no.2
• /
• pp.592-599
• /
• 2019

This study is to stabilize insoluble and unstable active ingredient which is Idebenone (INCI name: hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) in a multi-lamellar vesicle (MLV) and to stabilize it in the skin care cosmetics. Idebenone is good effective raw material in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease in the medical field and a powerful antioxidant in dermatology. It is well known as a substance that inhibits the formation of melanin and cleans the skin pigment. However, it did not dissolve in any solvent and it was difficult to apply in cosmetic applications. Niosome vesicle was able to develop a nano-particle by making a multi-layer of idebenone encapsulated with a nonionic surfactant, hydrogenated lecithin and glycine soja (soybean) sterols and passing it through a high pressure microfluidizer. Idebenone niosome vesicle (INV) has been developed to have the ability to dissolve transparently in water and to promote transdermal penetration. The appearance of the INV was a yellowish liquid having specific odor, and the particle size distribution of INV was about 10~80 nm. The pH was 5~8 (mean=6.8). This capsulation with idebenone was stored in a $45^{\circ}C$ incubator for 3 months and its stability was observed and quantitatively measured by HPLC. As a result, the stability of the sample encapsulated in the niosome vesicle (97.5%) was about 66.3% higher than that of the non-capsule sample of 32.5%. Idebenone 1% INV was used for the efficacy test and clinical trial evaluation as follows. The anti-oxidative activity of INV was 38.2%, which was superior to that of 12.8% tocopherol (control). The melanin-reducing effect of B16 melanoma cells was better than INV (17.4%) and Albutin (control) (9.6%). Pro-collagen synthesis rate was 128.2% for INV and 89.3% for tocopherol (control). The skin moisturizing effect was 15.5% better than the placebo sample. The elasticity effect was 9.7% better than the placebo sample. As an application field, INV containing 1% of idebenone is expected to be able to develop various functional cosmetic formulations such as skin toner, ampoule essence, cream, eye cream and sunblock cream. In addition, it is expected that this encapsulated material will be widely applicable to emulsifying agents for skin use in the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
• /
• v.9 no.6
• /
• pp.218-226
• /
• 2019

In this study, we investigated the possibility of Kaempferia Galanga(KG) hot water extract on the antioxidant, cytotoxic and anti-inflammatory efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient. Antioxidant effects were evaluated based on DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activity, FRAP assay, and total polyphenol contents. The MTT assay was used to confirm the cell toxicity in mouse macrophage RAW264.7 cells. Anti-inflammatory effects were also investigated in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells by measuring secretion of NO, $TNF-{\alpha}$ and iNOS, $TNF-{\alpha}$ mRNA expression level. As a result, DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activities were increased in a concentration-dependent manner. The ferric reducing antioxidant power(FRAP) was the highest at 5 mg/mL as 24.5 uM. The measurements of total polyphenol content was $1.28{\pm}0.064mg\;GAE/g$. The cytotoxicity of the KG extract results showed no cytotoxicity at concentration of 0.625 to 2.5 mg/mL. In addition, the extract of KG significantly suppressed the LPS-induced nitrite, $TNF-{\alpha}$ secretion and the mRNA expression of iNOS, $TNF-{\alpha}$ in RAW264.7 cells. Taken together, these data suggest that the KG hot water extracts can be used as a safe and functional cosmetic raw material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.49 no.4
• /
• pp.291-298
• /
• 2023

In this study, a quantitative analysis method was developed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to analyze the content of ceramide NP in lotion, cream, and cleanser formulations in cosmetics. The analysis was performed using a C18 column, and the mobile phase was set at a ratio of 70 : 30 for acetonitrile and methanol, the flow rate was set to 0.8 mL/min, and the column temperature was set to 20 ℃. The method was verified by analyzing specificity, linearity, limit of detection, limit of quantitation, accuracy, and precision in accordance with the ICH guidelines. As a result of validating the method, the linearity of the calibration curve was excellent (R² = 0.99984). The accuracy of the lotion, cream, and cleanser formulations was confirmed with a recovery rate ranging from 95.11% to 100.48%. The precision analysis showed a low relative standard deviation (RSD) of less than 0.26%. The limit of detection was 0.902 ㎍/mL, and the limit of quantitation was 2.733 ㎍/mL. Through this quantitative analysis method of ceramide NP applied in cosmetics, it is expected to assist in the quality control of products by enabling measurement even when it is difficult to separate the main peak due to the influence of interfering substances.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
• /
• v.47 no.1
• /
• pp.148-157
• /
• 2019

A 70% ethanol extract of Erigeron annuus (L.) Pers. was investigated for its whitening activity for application as a functional ingredient in cosmetic products. At the E. annuus extract concentration of $100{\mu}g/ml$, the electron-donating ability was found to be 67.83%, the tyrosinase inhibitory effect (related to skin-whitening) was 69%, the elastase inhibitory effect (related to skin-wrinkling) was 69%, and the astringent effect was 80%. The $ABTS^+$ radical-scavenging ability was 87% at the $500{\mu}g/ml$ concentration. In the cell viability test measured on melanoma cells, 96% of the cells treated with $100{\mu}g/ml$ of the extract were viable. According to the western blot results, the protein expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2 was decreased by 60.22%, 47.83%, 54.79%, and 67.88%, respectively, at the extract concentration of $100{\mu}g/ml$. The protein expression of phosphorylated extracellular signal regulated kinase (p-ERK) and phosphorylated cAMP response element-binding protein (p-CREB) was decreased with increasing concentrations of the extract. Reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction of the extract showed that the mRNA expression of MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 was decreased by 86.51%, 85.22%, 74.26%, and 66.66%, respectively, at $100{\mu}g/ml$ extract concentration. The findings suggest that the 70% ethanol extract from E. annuus (L.) Pers. has potential as a cosmeceutical ingredient with whitening effect.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.40 no.1
• /
• pp.109-120
• /
• 2014

In this study, the extracts of Inula britannica var. chinensis (I. britannica) flower were extracted at three different temperatures (room temperature, $45^{\circ}C$, and $65^{\circ}C$) and their anti-aging effects were studied. Before investigating anti-aging effects of the extracts, their cytotoxicity was tested on B16F10, Hs683, and HaCaT cells. All extracts showed no cytotoxicity at the concentration less than 0.1% (v/v). Melanin synthesis inhibitory activities in B16F10 cells and reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) in Hs683 and HaCaT cells were used to see their anti-aging effects. The room temperature extract at 0.1% showed 24.5% melanin synthesis inhibition, which was better than the $45^{\circ}C$ and $65^{\circ}C$ extracts. In addition, expression rates of the room temperature extract at 0.1% on HAS-1, HAS-2, and HAS-3 related to hyaluronan synthase genes were 123.3%, 137.8%, 133.2%, respectively. which were higher than reference material of L-ascorbic acid. Expression rates of the $45^{\circ}C$ extract at 0.1% on TNF-${\alpha}$, COX-2, and IL-$1{\alpha}$, which are inflammatory related genes, was suppressed to 30.3%, 12.8%, 25.7%, respectively. It was better in anti-in flammatory effect than the room temperature and $65^{\circ}C$ extracts. As results, we showed that I. britannica var. chinensis flower extarcts decreased melanin production and expression of inflammatory related genes and increased the expression rate of hyaluronan synthase genes. Thus, it is believed that the extracts affect anti-aging effects of skin through whitening, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory processes and could be applicable to cosmetics as a functional cosmetic ingredient.