Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.15230/SCSK.2014.40.1.109

Anti-aging Effect of Inula britannica var. chinensis Flower Extract According to the Extraction Temperature  

Jeon, Ji Min (R&D Center, ACT Co., Ltd.)
Yoo, Dae Sung (R&D Center, ACT Co., Ltd.)
Cheon, Jong Woo (R&D Center, ACT Co., Ltd.)
Kwon, Soon Sik (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology)
Jeon, So Ha (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology)
Park, Soo Nam (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology)
Publication Information
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea / v.40, no.1, 2014 , pp. 109-120 More about this Journal
Abstract
In this study, the extracts of Inula britannica var. chinensis (I. britannica) flower were extracted at three different temperatures (room temperature, $45^{\circ}C$, and $65^{\circ}C$) and their anti-aging effects were studied. Before investigating anti-aging effects of the extracts, their cytotoxicity was tested on B16F10, Hs683, and HaCaT cells. All extracts showed no cytotoxicity at the concentration less than 0.1% (v/v). Melanin synthesis inhibitory activities in B16F10 cells and reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) in Hs683 and HaCaT cells were used to see their anti-aging effects. The room temperature extract at 0.1% showed 24.5% melanin synthesis inhibition, which was better than the $45^{\circ}C$ and $65^{\circ}C$ extracts. In addition, expression rates of the room temperature extract at 0.1% on HAS-1, HAS-2, and HAS-3 related to hyaluronan synthase genes were 123.3%, 137.8%, 133.2%, respectively. which were higher than reference material of L-ascorbic acid. Expression rates of the $45^{\circ}C$ extract at 0.1% on TNF-${\alpha}$, COX-2, and IL-$1{\alpha}$, which are inflammatory related genes, was suppressed to 30.3%, 12.8%, 25.7%, respectively. It was better in anti-in flammatory effect than the room temperature and $65^{\circ}C$ extracts. As results, we showed that I. britannica var. chinensis flower extarcts decreased melanin production and expression of inflammatory related genes and increased the expression rate of hyaluronan synthase genes. Thus, it is believed that the extracts affect anti-aging effects of skin through whitening, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory processes and could be applicable to cosmetics as a functional cosmetic ingredient.
Keywords
Inula britannica flower; anti-aging; whitening; moisture; anti-inflammation;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 3  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 S. Karvinen, S. Pasonen-Seppanen, J. M. Hyttinen, J. P. Pienimaki, K. Toronen, T. A. Jokela, M. I. Tammi, and R. Tammi, Keratinocyte growth factor stimulates migration and hyaluronan synthesis in the epidermis by activation of keratinocyte hyaluronan synthase 2 and 3, J. Biol. Chem., 278(49), 49495 (2003).   DOI   ScienceOn
2 S. H. Kim, G. W. Nam, H. K. Lee, S. J. Moon, and I. S. Chang, The effects of musk T on peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor [PPAR]-alpha activation, epidermal skin homeostasis and dermal hyaluronic acid synthesis, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 298, 273 (2006).   DOI   ScienceOn
3 I. Gheretich, T. Lotti, G. Campanile, C. Grappone, and G. Dini, Hyaluronic acid in custaneous intrinsic aging, Int. J. Dermatol., 33, 119 (1994).   DOI   ScienceOn
4 K. Chiba, T. Sone, K. Kawakami, and M. Onoue, Skin roughness and wrinkle formation induced by repeated application of squalene monohydroperoxide to the hairless mouse, Exp. Dermatol., 8, 471 (1999).   DOI   ScienceOn
5 A. Oikarinen, The aging of skin: Chronoaging versus photoaging, Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed., 7, 3 (1990).
6 M. Yamauchi, P. Prisayanh, Z. Haque, and D. T. Woodley, Collagen cross-linking in sun-exposed and unexposed sites of aged human skin, J. Invest. Dermatol., 97, 938 (1991).
7 B. A. Jurkiewicz and G. R. Buettner, Ultraviolet light-induced free radical formation in skin : an electron paramagnetic resonance study, Photochem. Photobiol., 59(1), 1 (1994).   DOI   ScienceOn
8 S. N. Park, Antioxidative properties of baicalein, component from Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi and its application to cosmetics (I), J. Korean Ind. Eng. Chem., 14(5), 657 (2003).
9 H. Z. Hill, W. Li, P. Xin, and D. L. Michell, Melanin: a two edged sword?, Pigment Cell Res., 10, 158 (1998).
10 R. E. Boissy, Melanosome transfer to and translocation in the keratinocyte, Exp. Dermatol., 12(2), 5 (2003).   DOI   ScienceOn
11 S. Sakai, T. Sayo, S. Kodama, and S. Inoue, N-Methyl-L-serine stimulates hyaluronan production in human skin fibroblasts, Skin Pharmacol. Physiol., 12, 276 (1999).   DOI   ScienceOn
12 M. H. Jin, E. T. Jeong, M. S. Kim, H. J. Song, T. J. Kwak, S. G. Park, and S. M. Lee, The effects of polydatin isolated from Polygonum cuspidatum on melanogenesis and wrinkle formation, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 37(4), 327 (2011).
13 Y. P. Cheon, M. L. Mollah, C. H. Park, J. H. Hong, G. D. Lee, J. C. Song, and K. S. Kim, Inhibition effects of water extract of Bulnesia sarmienti on inflammatory responce in LPS-induced RAW 264.7 cell line, J. Life Science, 19, 479 (2009).   DOI
14 S. Claude, K. Manabu, M. Laura, and P. Lester, Antioxidants modulate acute solar ultraviolet radiation- induced NF-kappa-B activation in a human keratinocyte cell line, Free Radic. Biol. med., 26, 174 (1999).   DOI   ScienceOn
15 S. I. Lamberg and A. C. Stoolmiller, Glycosaminoglycans, J. Invest. Dermatol., 63, 433 (1974).   DOI   ScienceOn
16 J. M. Jeong, Antioxidative and antiallergic effects of aronia (Aronia melanocarpa) extract, Korean Soc. Food Sci. Nutr., 37, 1109 (2008).   DOI
17 Y. J. Kim, Y. R. Lee, J. W. Cheon, and H. S. Lee, Anti-aging effect of Ligustrum japonicum extract in the human fibroblast cells, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 36(4), 295 (2010).
18 I. Ghersetich, T. Lotti, G. Campanile, C. Grappone, and G. Dini, Hyaluronic acid in cutaneous intrinsic aging, Int. J. Dermatol., 33, 119 (1994).   DOI   ScienceOn
19 K. M. Mohler, D. S. Torrance, C. A. Smith, R. G. Goodwin, K. E. Stremler, and V. P. Fung, Soluble tumor necrosis factor (TNF) receptors are effective therapeutic agents in lethal endotoxemia and function simultaneously as both TNF carriers and TNF antagonists, J. Immunol., 151, 1548 (1993).
20 W. Lesslauer, H. Tabuchi, R. Gentz, M. Brockhaus, E. J. Schlaeger, and G. Grau, Recombinant soluble tumor necrosis factor receptor proteins protect mice from lipopolysaccharide-induced lethality, Eur. J. Immunol., 21, 2883 (1991).   DOI   ScienceOn
21 E. H. Kim, J. E. Kim, K. H. Kim, E. Y. Na, S. K. Lee, H. M. Jeong, H. J. Lee, and S. N. Park, Antibacterial and antioxidative activities of Inula britannica flower extract, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 35(3), 209 (2009).
22 J. E. Kim, A. R. Kim, and S. N. Park, A study on the stability and clinical trial for the cream containing Inula britannica flower extract, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 37(2), 129 (2011).
23 S. N. Park, Effects of natural products on skin cells- action and suppression of reactive oxygen species, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 25(2), 77 (1999).
24 R. M. Colven and S. R. Pinnell, Topical vitamin C in aging, Clin. Dermatol., 14(2), 227 (1996).   DOI   ScienceOn
25 J. E. Kim, A. R. Kim, M. J. Kim, and S. N. Park, Antibacterial, antioxidative and antiaging effects of Allium cepa Peel Extracts, Appl. Chem. Eng., 22(2), 178 (2011).
26 S. S. Kwon, S. H. Jeon, J. M. Jeon, J. W. Cheon, and S. N. Park, Antioxidative effects of Inula britannica var. chinensis Flower Extracts according to the flowering period and species of Inula britannica var. chinensis, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 39(3), 195 (2013).   DOI
27 G. S. Sim, J. H. Kim, B. C. Lee, D. H. Lee, G. S. Lee, and H. B. Pyo, Inhibitory effects on melanin production in B16 melanoma cells of Sedum sarmentosum, Yakhak Heoji, 52(3), 165 (2008).
28 L. A. Milo, K. A. Reardon, and K. A. Tappenden, Effects of short-chain fatty acid-supplemented total parenteral nutrition on intestinal pro-inflammatory cytokine abundance, Dig. Dis. Sci., 47(9), 2049 (2002).   DOI   ScienceOn
29 C. L. Phillips, S. B. Combs, and S. R Pinnell, Effects of ascorbic acid on proliferation and collagen synthesis in relation to the donor age of human dermal fibroblasts, J. Invest. Dermatol., 103(2), 228 (1994).   DOI   ScienceOn
30 S. S. Jew, O. N. Bae, and J. H. Chung, Anti-inflammatory effects of asiaticoside on inducible nitric oxide synthase and cyclooxygenase-2 in RAW 264.7 cell line, J. Toxicol. Pub. Health, 19, 33 (2003).