• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.84-100
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• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.323-333
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to analyze the meaning and formative features of the black color reflected on the fetish fashion. This study was proceeded mainly by analyzing with references and plates of magazine. The results of the study were as follows ; First, the sexual liberation and revolution have certainly led to a reassessment of sexual deviations, which changed the meaning of fetishism that has been only regarded as sexual perversion, so that it symbolied a new sexual perception and identification. As the result, black in fetish fashion was symbolized a new fetishism\`s definition which refused to distinguish male from female, and also reflected the meaning to express the second sex that wanted to express themselves. Second, the formative features of black color in fetish fashion have appeared tightness and bareness in form, and in material, glancing materials changed by the effect of light, and elasticity materials-leather, rubber, PVC, and laycra. By these features, black fetish fashion has drawn a higher attention on human body than the dress itself as a symbol about the psychology of erotic sensations and sexual images of the self appearing in black color.

• 동의생리병리학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.1237-1241
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• 2004

The Study on the constitutional composition of the formative factor for cognition and thought process in the cognition of man in the Yin Yang twenty-five type man of the Young Chu makes up the deficiency of economic-social factor begining with the influence of environment. The constitutional composition of the formative factor for cognition and thought process in the cognition of man the Yin Yang twenty-five type man of the Young Chu are interpretated the Yin type man -preponderance characteristic. The Chinese social delineation in the Yin Yang twenty-five type man of the Young possess the characteristic of the Yin type man - preponderance.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.47-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to grasp the meaning of retro-fashion, to research the formative feature characteristic and aesthetic values. Retro-fashion is one of the expression of spatiotemporal-eclecticism, The formative of modern Retro-fashion are as follows: First, Retro-fashion based on spatiotemporal-eclecticism have been come from 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s style of time, and the asia, africa, middle east, latin America in region. Second, the design inspiration and technique is used more primitive crafts and decoration like handcrafted material, handmade ornaments as dyeing and embroidery of bohemian, jacqwuard pattern, oriental beads, applique, new hippie touch, patchwork, smocking, primitive button, woods, ethnic motives. Third, modern Retro-fashion is reflection of human feelings as nostalgia from the past, it supplies the sense of fashion creativity and new ideas.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.342-352
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• 2008

Picasso and Chanel were the most famous artists of modern art & fashion area in 20th century. It is well known that they have deeply influenced to the current fashion and art. This study is aimed to analyze Channel's works based on the aspects of Picasso's from 1900's to 1930's. There are five common, distinct and formative aspects - flatness, geometry, transparency based on multi-perspective, volume, variety of objects. Their works are based on the simplicity which is expressed by the analyzation, organization, deconstruction influenced by cubism. It is reconfirmed that they gave the general public the new value-functionality-by using the ready-made materials. Nowadays artists model themselves after Picasso and Chanel who made attempt to conversion of ideas, the steady style, the long view, the interchange of other fields and popularization.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.687-702
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to study the inner meaning and formative with distorted and atypical Informel image, body image expressed in modern fashion. Method of the study is as follow. The study method examined philosophy of art 19th century?in order to consider interconnections between social and cultural characteristics of expressionistic abstract art, a form of Informel and changed physical style. Based on this method, the Informel image that appeared in the plastic arts in terms of artistic significance and aesthetic value was examined. Based on the above discussion on modern fashion Informel images were expressed in any formative characteristics were considered. The results of this study are as follows. Contingencies through the spontaneous act of art to transcend the image of atypical lines formed elements of coincidence, was developed. Liberation was expressed from liberation of physical boundaries and created outward expansion of the free formative. Atypical was organic forms pursuing spontaneous plasticity and diversity, and appeared in the form of distortion and deformation.

• 공학교육연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.62-69
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• 2010

공학인증에서 사용되는 프로그램 학습성과는 학생들에게 제공되는 교육의 품질을 파악하고 이를 통하여 교육의 개선을 할 수 있는 수단으로 사용되고 있다. 따라서 학습성과를 향상시킬수 있는 방법이 모색되고 있으며 캡스톤 디자인 교과목은 그 특성상 가장 효율적인 향상 방법으로 고려되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 캡스톤 디자인 교과목의 교과목 내용을 개선하여 프로그램의 학습성과를 향상시키기 위한 것으로 이를 위하여 형성평가를 도입하였다. 형성평가를 효율적으로 도입하기 위하여 형성평가의 핵심 요소인 피드백 과정의 구조를 정의하였는데 최적의 효과를 내기 위하여 교사 주도형과 학생 교정형을 혼합한 형식을 사용하였다. 또한 형성평가가 이루어지는 시점인 세부 단원을 정의하기 위하여 소프트웨어 공학을 도입하였으며 여섯 단계의 세부 단계를 통하여 캡스톤 디자인 과목에서의 형성평가가 구현되었다. 각 세부단계에서의 평가 항목과 평가 기준들은 교과목 진행중에 학생들에게 공개되며 본 연구에서 제안한 피드백 과정을 통하여 학생들이 평가기준에 맞는 결과를 내기위하여 학습을 하도록 교과목을 구성, 운영하였다. 실제 2학기동안 실험을 실시해본 결과 형성평가를 도입하지 않았을 때보다 주목할 만한 향상을 보이고 있음을 발견할 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권8호
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• pp.849-859
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• 2012

This study contributes to the development of a creative fashion design and provides concrete data regarding the process of creative ideas through an analysis of the characteristics of the fashion design idea and the characteristics of fashion design from a formative perspective according to Osborn's checklist method. The data collection involved 466 pages that focused on the work of 30 designers (2005 S/S-2009 F/W) extracted from the websites style.com and ifb.co.kr. In the cases of pictures collected, a content analysis was applied based on statistical analysis and design analysis criteria. First, as a result of the examination of the characteristics of ideas for fashion design based on the checklist, it turned out that elimination method is most frequently employed, followed by addition, conversion, limit and combination. In addition, every idea showed a significant difference in terms of the applied item, expression method, and balance. Second, due to the study of the formative characteristics of fashion design (based on the checklist), it turned out that square-shaped silhouette, achromatic and chromatic colors, combined tones, identical color combination, complex texture, and identical texture combination are frequently used. In addition, every idea showed a significant difference in terms of form, color, and fabric. We believe that the use of the checklist is useful for the development of a creative design because formative characteristics vary based on the characteristic of ideas of fashion design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권6호통권59호
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• pp.883-895
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• 2005

Exaggeration is to express an object or a situation in an excessive way. As the desire for aesthetic expression grows greater today, we tended to focus on the exaggerative expression as a means to acquire other's attention and praise. Also people more actively express their own intention or opinion in an exaggerated manner. The purpose of this study is to identify the social and cultural functions of modern fashion via exaggerative expression, one of the formative characteristics, and its meaning. To do so, the exaggerative features of modern fashion have been analyzed, and the social and cultural meaning of those have been examined through the background of the times and aesthetic sense. The formative form in the exaggerative expression shown in the modern fashion was classified into a body priority type emphasizing woman's body contour, a body disregarded type shown oversized silhouette regardless of body contour and a body distorted type expressing free and diverse form in various shapes of asymmetry and imbalance. The symbolic meanings of those include the changing of the body consciousness and the notions of feminity, and the desire fur formative and playable expression. The exaggeration of the costume in history meant aesthetic value of the woman's body in the society led by men. However, the exaggerative expression shown in the modern fashion is a method to express more actively, as compared with the costume in the past.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.195-219
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• 2011

The purpose of the study is to analyze Hollywood actresses' makeup in formative characteristics and see the transition of the change for the usage as the fundamental materials to develop the future makeup field academy with the focus focused from 1920s to 2000s when the cosmetic industry began in earnest. The content of the study is to see the transition of the change by analyzing makeup of each era in formative aspect after seeing the transition of the makeup change in the social background by classifying by 10 years from 1920s to 2000s with related literature as the center in the theoretical background. The method of the study is to analyze makeup in formative aspect with total 180 pieces of pictures selected by two experts among their photos by selecting four actresses by each era and analyze Hollywood actresses' advertisement pictures which can be called as beauty icons at that time. Analysis frame to analyze the formativeness established new classification frame based on theories of Marian L. Davis, Marilyn Revell Delong, and Kang to analyze line, shape, texture, and decoration, and researcher's analysis frame was prepared based Munsell's color circle, tone analysis of P.C.C.S color system, and Kang's makeup color name to analyze colors. The result of the study is like below. Generally 20s and 30s highlighted line of eyebrows, 40s naturalness, 50s and 60s highlighted eye makeup, and from 70s makeup was focused on health, in 80s colorful makeup was boom, and 90s and 2000s has shown characteristics focused on texture of face.