• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권4호
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• pp.495-505
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• 2014

This study investigated the type of fashion brand concepts and derived the components of fashion brand concepts. A total of 125 brand concept texts of women's wear brands were collected from "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Annual" (S. M. Kim, 2012). A qualitative research method was employed. To investigate the types of fashion brand concepts, the texts were classified into three types such as functional, symbolic, and experiential concepts, and four complex types such as functional/symbolic, functional/experiential, symbolic/experiential, and functional/symbolic/experiential concepts. Open coding and axial coding provided the components of fashion brand concepts. The results were as follows. First, an investigation of the types of fashion brand concepts indicated differences in the types of fashion brand concepts and the types of general product brand concepts. One content of a fashion brand concept could be interpreted as more than two concept types; consequently, many fashion brand concepts did not fit the notion of the types of general product brand concept. Most fashion brand concepts simultaneously encompassed more than two types of brand concepts at once. Second, the components of fashion brand concepts consisted of 55 subjects, 7 sub-categories (physical/intrinsic product characteristics, symbolic/conceptual product characteristics, target demographics, target consumer behavior, brand capability, brand values, and brand management/marketing) and 3 categories (product, target consumer, and brand).

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.41-54
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• 2004

This study purposed to apply function form content, the three concepts that have been discussed by many philosophers since ancient times, to fashion design. Specific research goals are : first, to define fashion design based on the three concepts : and second, to examine how each of the three concepts function-oriented, form-oriented and content-oriented design have been expressed in women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. For these purposes. the author considered Morris' semiotics, which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, reviewed previous researches in design area, and applied the findings to fashion design. According to the result of applying the threefold structure of semiotics. which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, the pragmatic dimension of fashion design comprehends all functional rules related to the use of dress such as body motion and protection, health and safety. air flow and durability, and its syntactic dimension comprehend all the formal elements of visual design such as the structure, shape, line, color and material of dress. The semantic dimension of fashion design includes the symbolic meanings of dress expressed by emotion, sentiment and images. The three dimensions exist interdependently with one another. According to the result of considering the characteristics of the three concepts in the scope of women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. function-oriented design is characterized by practicality and simplicity, and has been expressed as the fashion of functionalism in the 1920s, that of minimalism in the 1960s, and the basic style from 1970s to 1980s, 1990s and the present. Form-oriented design has pursued aestheticism, putting stress upon form, and has been expressed with organic shapes imitating patterns found in nature in the 1950s and with optical art fashion in the 1960s. Content-oriented design attaches importance to transmission of delicate meanings related to the mental world of human beings, and is represented with symbolic forms. Such a characteristic has been expressed in fashion in the early 20th century influenced by surrealism and, with various types of design breaking established forms as well as metaphors and humors that characterize design in the late 20th century.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.55-67
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• 2013

The root of cultural and artistic diversity of modern society goes hand in hand with the appearance of new art concepts that started during the social and cultural turmoil. These concepts crossed the boundaries of traditional and universal aesthetic concepts and value criteria. Since there is a close relationship between the fashion industry and the cultural flow of its times, the purpose of this study is to investigate the influences and applications of conceptual art, which became one of the big frameworks of contemporary art on fashion. The study thus sets out to develop and analyze the collections of Hussein Chalayan and Martin Margiela, who were fashion designers that pursued conceptual and ideal values, from the perspective of conceptual art. The goal was to examine the conceptual thoughts they sought after, and to understand their expressive determinations that they pursued conceptually as well as the superficial formativeness of their works. The characteristics according to the expressive methods and conceptual intentions of conceptual art that specified concepts and ideas were as follows: readymade symbolized objects, expanded intervention, data form from process of changing and implementation, and language as visual metaphors. Then those characteristics of conceptual art were used in this study to analyze the collections of Chalayan and Margiela. As a result, both designers applied and mixed many characteristics of the expressive methods of conceptual art. In modern society, art and fashion share a cultural identity and it can be said that it is an accurate reflection of the time. They are not separate genres. Just like the unique flow of modern society that creates new concepts through mixture and infusion of different disciplines, fashion is included in the domain of art. In addition, understanding and studying other disciplines can make a huge contribution to the growth and development of fashion.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.53-70
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressional traits and meanings of body images in contemporary fashion illustration, based on postmodern body theories and body images in postmodern art. For achieving the purpose, this study performed related research works and undertook a demonstrative analysis of fashion illustrations. The results are as follows : The postmodern body theories not only opposed, deconstructed the traditional concepts and norms of body, but also revealed the suppressed facts of it. Also they composed the new concepts of body. The expressional traits of body images in postmodern art and contemporary fashion illustration were categorized as realistically presented body, distorted/deformed body, fragmented body, abject body, post-gendered body and absent body. Through these traits, the meanings of defiance to authority, revelation of reality, new creation were expressed. In conclusion, the various body images in contemporary fashion illustration reflect open concepts for human beings and give new aesthetic experiences.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2005

In the 21th century, the age of image, people express and are evaluated with their images. Image making, as behavior of creating image, is rapidly spreading in the society. Thus, the purpose of this study is to investigate the precise concepts of image making, and the meaning of personal image and fashion styling in image making. Based on previous studies in clothing for a theoretical examination of the concepts of image making, and the meaning of personal image and fashion styling in image making, we have analyzed and studied the concepts of image making generally accepted in the society. The results of this study are as follows. First, personal image making aims at the establishment of one's own identity through the ideal image construction. Second, the establishment of one's own identity through building up his ideal image is completed through fashion styling. Third. image making increases one's personal values and competitive power to implement its ultimate goals. In this study, we have proved that image making makes people establish their own identity by building up their ideal images through fashion styling.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.57-70
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• 2011

As a form of media diversified and changed by the development of technology, fashion advertisements have brought a new change in representation of the body. With this transition, the characteristics of the body, which is in an inseparable relationship with fashion, have been dramatically changed in fashion advertisements. In hugely extended media flow, fashion advertisements suggest concepts of the body that are completely different from the past and became the focus in advertisements. Moreover, the body in fashion advertisements involve the symbolisms of social and cultural backgrounds followed by their commercialization. This study analyzes the characteristics of the body in fashion advertisements drawing on the innovative concepts of the body in contemporary society which is essentially different from the past ones; these characteristics are examined as postmodern features. The features are categorized as follows; hyperreal body, virtual body, fragmentization of the body through neologism, reconsideration of naked body, and decentralized body. The postmodern characteristics of the body have changed the boundary, broken traditional concepts and thoughts, and proposed new trends by creating revolutions though diversified media. Rapidly changing media is considered to be further accelerated; this transition highlights the postmodern characteristics of the body in fashion advertisements in more innovative methods.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.317-326
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• 2002

This study is to analyze the works introduced in the collections of Paco Rabanne in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. Paco Rabanne's fashion philosophy is to shine women who has passion, energy and self-confidence, with glittering materials. For he had a career of fashion accessary designer and architect, he tried to make his work constructively with non-sewing technology. So, his works could be divided three parts of materials which he has made creative fashion with. They are metallic, non-metallic and fabric. In metallic, design concepts are cosmos, egypt, the middle ages, modern technology. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by the futurism, cubism and eroticism. In non-metallic, building, purism of primitiveness, nature. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by surrealism, primitivism, romantism. In fabric, design concepts are natural phenomena, optical illusion. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by cubism, optical art.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.351-363
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• 2015

This research explores diachronic fashion design trends through a structure analysis of a connection network based on fashion show concepts implemented by modern fashion designers from S/S 2009 to F/W 2013. The findings from this research are as follows. First, four categories affect the inspiration and thinking of design: the experience of the designer, social atmosphere and phenomena, natural sensitivity (or formative characteristics of natural objects), and the influence and quality of other fields. Second, in cases where the designers' experiences influenced design inspiration and thinking, designers express personal memories with keywords like high school, grandmother's closet, prom, beauty and the beast, heritage, past, and reminiscence through design elements such as lines, silhouettes, materials, and colors. Third, the representative example of the social atmosphere and phenomena that influenced design inspiration and thinking was the 2008 Global Financial Crisis that reflected the social climate through design concepts of keywords such as Recession, Black, Economy, US, Depression, Gray, Dark Age, White and New York. Fourth, inspired by nature and the formative characteristics in design, the designers employed ornamental elements to collections and design concepts that focused on nature words connected to light, sun, wild, dirt, rock, moss, and trees. Fifth, the designers took their ideas from different fields of personal interest in the arts, science and humanities (sports, architecture, sculpture, painting, and literature) that were decisive in determining materials, design colors and silhouettes. The theme of architecture was analyzed as a central element that had an ongoing impact on the concepts of designers.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.156-160
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• 2006

Poststructuralism gives us a clue to totally understand fashion design, which is in danger of difficulty and frivolous ambiguity caused by indiscreet creating and groundless interpretation of Postmodernism. In addition, it leads us to have a new viewpoint, which is freed from stereotyped past concepts and constraints, with regard to fashion design. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, present study employs a two-way research method: analysis of theories and analysis of contents. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design. In analysis of contents, 10 fashion designers are chosen who exhibit new works at every Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter collection. Including 20 works that those designers displayed at Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter from spring/summer 2001 through autumn/winter 2004-2005, a total of 200 works are analyzed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.585-593
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• 2005

Diverse and complicated trends of fashion design which were initiated at the latter part of the 20th century have been evolving in the cultural framework of Postmodernism. At this point of time, Poststructuralism, with its aims to interpret and understand modern fashion design, is a new system of thinking that reveals the contradictory aspects of rationalistic Western philosophy and accepts uncertainty and disorder as they exist. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, analysis of theories and analysis of contents. By probing and examining deconstruction theory, 'I'-other theory, textual theory, and nomadic thinking, the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism. The theoretic foundation for this analysis and classification is supplied by Derrida's deconstructional philosophy, Lacan's mental analysis, Bartes's textual theory, Deleuze's change and generation theory, together with other theories of Poststructuralism. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design.