• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.131-145
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide preliminary data on strategies to create a domestic prestige brand based on Korean traditional designs. This study also deals with how to promote this brand around the world. The two points mentioned above will be accomplished by examining the characteristics of the brand '3.1 Phillip Lim' which succeeded in both design and marketing during a short period of time. The method of the study will be followed. Firstly, the basic design and philosophical background of Phillip Lim was investigated, after reviewing the global luxury market and current status of overseas expansion of Korean designers through paper study and antecedent workups. Secondly, for the practical stage, design characteristics and marketing strategies were reviewed with the collections of '3.1 Phillip Lim'. Three factors found in '3.1 Phillip Lim's design success are as follows: First, practical and simple designs using fabrics of high quality. Second, handcraft elements and interesting details that differentiates his design identity. Third, femininity expressed in the feminine silhouette and color. The marketing elements that made '3.1 Phillip Lim' as a successful brand are: First, differentiated positioning as a luxurious contemporary brand. Second, brand promotion through various collaborations. Third, the gradual expansion of women's, men's, kids' apparel to accessory, lingerie and the stable flagship stores. Thus, '3.1 Phillip Lim' has combined modern and classic styles using high quality fabrics and practical designs with unique details. Through it's differentiated marketing strategy targeting New York's market, which prefers popular 'luxury contemporary brand's rather than high-end luxury brands, this brand's creativity and commercial aspects contributed to make '3.1 Phillip Lim' into a luxury brand that represents New York fashion. Korean designers who seek to enter the global fashion industry should consider applying Korean traditional designs on global designs to make favorable products and localize these products according to regional characteristics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.262-280
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the organic forms, expressions, and characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion design and to present various materials for understanding and utilizing this organic design style. The criteria for organic design expressions and characteristics were classified through a literature review, and the organic design characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion were then analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the morphological characteristics of nature's forms are used as objects in Alexander McQueen's fashions to represent organic characteristics. Second, abstraction through the application of organic forms means creating an abstract representation of the object being represented. Abstracting organic forms occurs by partially modifying the structural features of the human body to show characteristics or by visualizing these characteristics within the surface of the natural object. Third, continuity through the expression of the formation process of organisms is characteristic of the expression of the gradual growth of organisms; this reinterpretation is based on the concept that the internal elements of natural objects affect their external forms. Fourth, the structure of using natural materials, as well as regional and cultural characteristics, is shown in the designs through use of the physical characteristics of expressions and materials that use natural elements. Fifth, symbolism through subjective thinking implies that the element of nature that an object expresses is the element that appears in nature; this includes created organisms along with environmental factors. These characteristics are best demonstrated in fashion designs that express themselves through creativity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.108-123
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• 2024

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.95-103
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• 2024

This study examines the works of Yohji Yamamoto, one of the most influential fashion designers in 21st century Japan. The research focuses on the Yohji Yamamoto Women Ready To Wear collections showcased at Paris Fashion Week (2019F/W-2024S/S). The research methodology includes case analysis and summarization of images. The study analyzes the Yohji Yamamoto brand development and design style. A total of 399 runway images from 2019F/W-2024S/S were downloaded from VOGUE and analyzed based on four aspects: silhouette, color, material, and item. The analysis of these aspects reveals the aesthetic characteristics of Yohji Yamamoto: Zen-like, simplicity, naturalness, and elegance. The findings indicate that these aesthetic ideas are the core elements of Yohji Yamamoto's unique aesthetic and play a significant role in shaping the brand's style.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.379-386
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• 2024

The purpose of this study was to pay attention to the increase in the frequency of expression of butterflies and insects, whose decrease in the number of individuals is symbolized as a measure of environmental pollution, among the various motifs of nature as we go through the COVID-19, when we realized the importance of nature. The scope of this study was limited to fashion collection fashion show photos and interview articles of online for fashion collections from 2019 to 2023. As a result of the study, 185 butterfly motivation fashion design appeared, and digital printing techniques were the most used as a type of plane expression method. Along with this, techniques such as quilting, embroidery, and beading have appeared a lot as techniques to express the planar motif of butterflies. As for the three-dimensional expression types, 3D printing, laser cutting, corsage techniques, and draping techniques showed similar proportion. It can be seen that the expressed butterfly motif had more realistic description the shape of the butterfly as it was than abstract expressions. In conclusion, it can be seen that the butterfly motif fashion design over the past five years contains a stronger message about the environment than the butterfly motif fashion in the past. It was confirmed that it is a motif with a great symbolic meaning that can convey an eco-friendly message beyond just the morphological beauty and colorful design elements of the butterfly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.414-424
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• 2005

This study aims to suggest new directions for the development of make-up design by understanding characteristics of deconstruction make-up and to search for new directions and methods in theme expressions and design conceptions by making illustrations with deconstruction themes. This study examines conceptual characteristics of Derrida's deconstruction, and analyzes the various deconstruction make-up styles through the famous fashion magazines such as Beauty Collection, Collections, Fem, Modain, and Vogue since 1997. The make-up illustration works in this study were made depending on these styles. At first, the nature of deconsouction make-up can be explained as deconstruction of existing methods, deconstruction of the sexes and deconstruction of history or ethnicity. The deconstruction of existing methods can be subdivided into decadence make-up, detester make-up, graphic make-up and collage make-up. Deconstruction of the sexes can be explained androgynous make-up. Deconstruction of history or ethnicity is subdivided into white makeup, ancient Egyptian dark eye make-up and raceless make-up. The deconstruction make-up illustrations present infinite possibilities in expression styles through three dimensional expressions and media mixture using not only drawing materials including watercolor, poster-color, and color pencils but also objets including magazines, coarse fabrics, screentone, beads, suede, sand and so on. The study shows that since deconstruction make-up illustrations are not limited to depiction-centered expressions, they serve creating unique images and future inspirations.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.1-20
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• 2010

This thesis is about "manggon" that holds down man's top knot hair and its accessaries "pungjam", "kwanja". manggon was seen first time in the mural of Donwhang kae won chon bo during T'ang period (713-756). The "Tu Aek Ra" manggon shown in this mural would be the origin and beginning of maggon's usage. Also the "Sha" that was placed on top of the hair for decoration purpose is believed to be a former form of "manggon" Before the short hair cut was enforced, wearing the "kwan"(head gear) was considered as an impotant etiguette. Thus the head gear was treasured and the manggon which was the most essential piece to cover down the hair before to put on the head gear was regarded as the most important piece. However, since the manggon was tied very tightly around the forehead, manggon caused some sickness. From my private collections of man's head gears and ornament, 121 items were selected and used for analysis and the followings were found: 1. Pungjam was divided into 8 categories according to its shape and a research was made on its unique structural characteristic on each categories. 2. Kwanja's material and design that were used are all in accordance to the historical recordings.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.723-735
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze the types of Jumoni (pouches), which takes the most quantity of traditional women's handicrafts in China, and examine figurative characteristics of them through demonstrative study focusing on collections of literature and museums. Traditional Jumoni of China included Dae, Nang, Hapo, Tu, Hap, and Chimeui. Its types included a pleated type, a covered type with a lid, an opened type without a lid, and a type that was stitched up after putting objects in it. The Jumoni had various shapes such as a polygon, a circle, and shapes imitating objects. It was used to store cosmetic utensils, sewing supplies, everyday household utensils, valuables, medicinal ingredients, flavoring materials, and so on. It had various figurative characteristics which were different from those of women's handicrafts in Korea. Based on the findings, it aims to provide basic information for developing Korean traditional accessories that make the best of Korean traditional beauty as well as add modern esthetics have both Korean traditional beauty and modern esthetics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1156-1168
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• 2008

This study investigated the preceding studies and concept of Glam Rock style, modernistically reinterpreted its aesthetic function and symbolism and connected them to design. It analyzed according to the standards for classification the Glam Rock style appearing mainly in the collections from 2002 S/S to 2007 S/S and presented four pieces of design through the analysis. Its findings are synthesized as follows. First, unstructured design constitutes mule stressing gold cubic overall. It takes an unstable form by the placement of unshapely front ball of foot from transforming Chopin and a relatively poor heel. Second, over trimming constitutes separated pumps in the form of over trimming irregularly a piece of broken glass, metal and thumb tack. Third, Mix & Match combines Boot body of flexible knit material with an acrylic wedge sandal. Fourth, a platform sandal has the structure of color contrast between yellow and bronze in calf fur of tiger-skin pattern. I hope that this study will be developed by reflecting Glam Rock spirit and style as cultural phenomena through analyzing Glam Rock style and presenting design according to selected standards for classification, inferring plastic beauty of fashion shoes from them, investigating the change and feature of age-specific shoe design and making a new attempt possible.