DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Characteristics of organic design in Alexander McQueen's collections

알렉산더 맥퀸 컬렉션에 나타난 유기적 디자인 특성

  • Kim, Dana (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University) ;
  • Lee, Younhee (Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University)
  • 김다나 (한양대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 이연희 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공)
  • Received : 2022.02.25
  • Accepted : 2022.04.10
  • Published : 2022.04.30

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to analyze the organic forms, expressions, and characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion design and to present various materials for understanding and utilizing this organic design style. The criteria for organic design expressions and characteristics were classified through a literature review, and the organic design characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion were then analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the morphological characteristics of nature's forms are used as objects in Alexander McQueen's fashions to represent organic characteristics. Second, abstraction through the application of organic forms means creating an abstract representation of the object being represented. Abstracting organic forms occurs by partially modifying the structural features of the human body to show characteristics or by visualizing these characteristics within the surface of the natural object. Third, continuity through the expression of the formation process of organisms is characteristic of the expression of the gradual growth of organisms; this reinterpretation is based on the concept that the internal elements of natural objects affect their external forms. Fourth, the structure of using natural materials, as well as regional and cultural characteristics, is shown in the designs through use of the physical characteristics of expressions and materials that use natural elements. Fifth, symbolism through subjective thinking implies that the element of nature that an object expresses is the element that appears in nature; this includes created organisms along with environmental factors. These characteristics are best demonstrated in fashion designs that express themselves through creativity.

Keywords

References

  1. Bioniccar 11. (n.d.). In Wikimedia Commons. Retrieved February 25, 2022, from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bioniccar_11.jpg
  2. Bolton, A. (2011). Alexander McQueen savage beauty. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  3. Fennetaux, A. (2018). Birds of a feather: Alexander Mcqueen's Victorian bestiary. Proceeding of the Comforting Creatures / 57e Congres de la SAES: (Re)Construction(s), 88 Automne. doi:10.4000/cve.4328
  4. Han, H. S., & Kim, M. D. (2004). A study on the organic design in Karim Rashid's works. Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal, 13(2), 56-63.
  5. Hwang, K. C., & Byun, S. T. (2017). A study on characteristics of organic expression in product design -Focusing on example designs by Ross Loveglove. The Korean Society of Science & Art, 30, 487-498. https://doi.org/10.17548/ksaf.2017.09.30.487
  6. Hwang, T. J. (2005). A study on the organic expression in contemporary architecture. Journal of Science & Culture, 2(3), 103-117.
  7. Jung, E. C. (2015). The historical background of organic design and design features of Ross Loveglove. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 21(4), 621-631.
  8. Jung, I. Y. (2011). The organic expression characteristics appeared in digital architecture: Focused on the Jaha Hadid architecture. Unpublished master's thesis, Chosun University, Gwangju, Korea.
  9. Kang, B. (2008). A study of organic form applied in design. A Treatise on the Plastic Media, 11(1), 1-8.
  10. Kim, G. S., & Lee, S. I. (2014). Focused on those organic furniture designs -Since the 20th century. Journal of the Korea Furniture Society, 25(3), 188-197. doi:10.22873/kofuso.2014.25.3.188
  11. Kim, J.-Y., & Woo, K.-D. (1999). A study on the organic expression principles of the 20C. Architecture. Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal, 18, 51-58.
  12. Kim, Y. (2012). A study on romantic characteristics seen through Alexander McQueen's fashion brand. A Journal of Brand Design Association of Korea, 10(4), 193-202. doi:10.18852/bdak.2012.10.4.193
  13. Kim, Y., & Yoo, Y. (2009). A study of the formative characteristics of organic modernism design in fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 59(10), 98-110.
  14. King, I. (2010, June 4). Hugo Haring - Gut Garkau. Flickr. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.flickr.com/photos/isaiahj/4706405817
  15. Koepe, H. F. (2022, January 30). Alvar Aalto finnish architect. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.britannica.com/biography/Alvar-Aalto
  16. Lee, J. K. (2015). Understanding of modern architecture. Daegu: Keimyung University Press.
  17. Lee, K. T., & Park, D. Y. (1993). A study on five types of design principles in organic architecture. Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea, 54(4), 11-21.
  18. Lee, O. S. (2009). A study on the direction of design application for inducing an organic characteristic of nature -Through the case analysis of furniture types expressing-. Journal of the Korea Furniture Society, 20(4), 388-403.
  19. Lee, Y. H. (2001). An analytical study on the contexts of organic design. Bulletin of Korean Society of Basic Design & Art, 2(1), 23-31.
  20. Lee, Y. S. (2011). A comparative study on the traits of organic expression appearing interior space by artist: Focused on the works by Zaha Hadid, Karim Rashid, Fabio Novembre and Nox. Unpublished master's thesis, Kyungsung University, Busan, Korea.
  21. Mako, V. (n.d.). Antonio Gaudi, ceiling in the main salon, Casa Battlo, Barcelona, 1904-06. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Antonio-Gaudi-Ceiling-in-the-Main-Salon-Casa-Battlo-Barcelona-1904-06_fig3_301296879
  22. Modernity Stockholm. (n.d.). Armchair and foot stool, Egg chair. Designed by Arne Jacobsen for Fritz Hansen Denmark. 1958. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.modernity.se/arm-chairand-foot-stool-egg-chair-designed-by-arne-jacobsen-for-fritz-hansen-2/
  23. Moon, E.-M. (2006). The characteristics of Frank Lloyd Wright's furniture design focused on organic integration. Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal, 15(4), 115-122.
  24. Mower, S. (2008, February 28). Alexander McQueen spring 2008 ready-to-wear review. Vogue. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen#review
  25. Organic. (n.d.). In 표준국어대사전 [Standard Korean Dictionary of the Korean Language]. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://ko.dict.naver.com/#/entry/koko/c8ee4bacb1944807aa416cbf45e82dba
  26. Organic Architecture. (2017, June 27). Fallingwater. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.independent.com.mt/articles/2017-06-27/local-news/FIRST-Organic-Architecture-6736175387
  27. Park, K., & Lee, Y. (2013). Expressional characteristics of neo-naturalism in contemporary women's fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 21(5), 613-628. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2013.21.5.613
  28. Park, S. J. (2003). A study of the historical back- ground of the organic design concept in modern design. Journal of Design & Arts, 5, 1-20.
  29. Park, Y. S. (2014). 현대 디자인의 역사 [History of modern design]. Paju: Idam Books.
  30. Song, J. H. (2011). Design study. Seoul: Vizandbiz.
  31. Song, S. M., & Kim, H. S. (2015). A research on expressionalcharacteristic elements of organic design morphology -Focused on heterogeneous context-. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 21(3), 393-405.
  32. Vogue. (2015a, October 3). Runway, Alexander McQueen fall 2000 ready to wear. Retrieved December 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2000-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
  33. Vogue. (2015b, October 3). Runway, Alexander McQueen spring 2000 ready to wear. Retrieved December 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2000-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
  34. Vogue. (n.d.a). Runway, Alexander McQueen spring 2001 ready to wear. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2001-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#24
  35. Vogue. (n.d.b). Runway, Alexander McQueen spring 2007 ready to wear. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#46
  36. Vogue. (n.d.c). Runway, Alexander McQueen fall 1996 ready to wear. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1996-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#31
  37. Vogue. (n.d.d). Runway, Alexander McQueen spring 1998 ready to wear. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1998-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#71
  38. Vogue. (n.d.e). Runway, Alexander McQueen fall 2008, ready to wear. Retrieved December 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#6
  39. Vogue. (n.d.f). Runway, Alexander McQueen spring 2003, ready to wear. Retrieved December 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2003-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#32
  40. Vogue. (n.d.g). Runway, Alexander McQueen spring 1996 ready to wear. Retrieved December 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1996-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#68
  41. Vogue. (n.d.h). Runway, Alexander McQueen fall 1999 ready to wear. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1999-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#54
  42. Vogue. (n.d.i). Runway, Alexander McQueen spring 2003, ready to wear. Retrieved December 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2003-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#43
  43. Vogue Korea. (n.d.a). Alexander McQueen fall/winter 2006 ready to wear. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://runway.vogue.co.kr/2008/10/15/ready-to-wear-2006-fw-alexander-mcqueen/#0
  44. Vogue Korea. (n.d.b). Alexander McQueen spring/ summer 2008 ready to wear. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://runway.vogue.co.kr/2008/10/15/ready-to-wear-2008-ss-alexander-mcqueen/#0
  45. Vogue Korea. (n.d.c). Alexander McQueen spring/ summer 2009 ready to wear. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://runway.vogue.co.kr/2009/06/08/ready-to-wear-2009-ss-alexander-mcqueen/#0
  46. Vogue Korea. (n.d.d). Alexander McQueen spring/ summer 2010 ready to wear. Retrieved December 15, 2021, from https://runway.vogue.co.kr/2009/10/16/ready-to-wear-2010-ss-alexander-mcqueen/#0
  47. Wilcox, C. (2015). Alexander McQueen. London: Victoria and Albert Museaum.
  48. Willson, B. (2015, March 7). Fierce, feathered and fragile: How Alexander McQueen made fashion an art. The guardian. Retrieved November 10, 2021, from https://www.theguardian.com/books/2015/mar/07/fierce-feathered-fragile-alexander-mcqueen-life
  49. Yim, E. H. (2016). Organic geometry in Isabel Toledo's collections. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 18(4), 63-75.
  50. Yoon, M. H. (2012). A study on the expressive characteristics of modern design using organic forms of nature. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 18(3), 284-296.