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Butterfly Motif Design in Contemporary Fashion Collection - Focusing on VOGUE from 2019 to 2023 -

현대 패션컬렉션에 표현된 나비모티브 디자인 분석 -2019년~2023년 VOGUE를 중심으로-

  • 신재영 (경북대학교 대학원 디지털패션학과) ;
  • 허정선 (경북대학교 섬유패션디자인학부 패션디자인전공)
  • Received : 2023.10.15
  • Accepted : 2023.11.10
  • Published : 2024.01.31

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to pay attention to the increase in the frequency of expression of butterflies and insects, whose decrease in the number of individuals is symbolized as a measure of environmental pollution, among the various motifs of nature as we go through the COVID-19, when we realized the importance of nature. The scope of this study was limited to fashion collection fashion show photos and interview articles of online for fashion collections from 2019 to 2023. As a result of the study, 185 butterfly motivation fashion design appeared, and digital printing techniques were the most used as a type of plane expression method. Along with this, techniques such as quilting, embroidery, and beading have appeared a lot as techniques to express the planar motif of butterflies. As for the three-dimensional expression types, 3D printing, laser cutting, corsage techniques, and draping techniques showed similar proportion. It can be seen that the expressed butterfly motif had more realistic description the shape of the butterfly as it was than abstract expressions. In conclusion, it can be seen that the butterfly motif fashion design over the past five years contains a stronger message about the environment than the butterfly motif fashion in the past. It was confirmed that it is a motif with a great symbolic meaning that can convey an eco-friendly message beyond just the morphological beauty and colorful design elements of the butterfly.

연구의 목적은 자연의 소중함을 깨닫게 된 코로나 시대를 거치면서 자연의 다양한 모티브 중에서 개체 수의감소가 환경오염의 척도로 상징되는 나비, 곤충 등의 표현 빈도가 증가하는 것에 주목하고자 하였다. 본 연구의 범위는 2019년부터 2023년까지의 패션컬렉션을 대상으로 온라인 <보그>지(www.vogue.com)의 시즌별 패션컬렉션 패션쇼 사진과 인터뷰 기사로 한정하였다. 연구 결과 185개의 나비모티브 의상이 나타났으며 평면적 표현방식의 유형으로는 디지털 프린팅 기법이 가장 많이 활용되었다. 이와 함께 퀼팅, 자수, 비딩 등의 기법들이 나비의 평면적 모티브를 표현하는 기법으로 많이 등장하였다. 입체적 표현 유형으로는 3D 프린팅, 레이저 컷팅, 코사지 기법, 드레이핑 기법을 사용한 유형들이 비슷한 비중으로 나타났다. 표현된 나비 모티브는 추상적인 표현보다는 나비의 형태를 그대로 묘사한 사실적인 디자인이 더 많았음을 알 수 있었다. 결론적으로 최근 5년간의 나비모티브 패션디자인은 과거의 나비모티브 패션에 비해 환경에 대한 메시지를 강하게 담고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 단순히 나비의 형태적 아름다움과 화려한 디자인 요소를 넘어서 친환경 메시지를 전달할 수 있는 상징적 의미가 큰 모티브임을 확인할 수 있었다.

Keywords

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