• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.358-362
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• 1999

두께와 무게가 다양한 23종의 직물을 대상으로 최대하중 10, 20, 35, 50, 70 $gf/cm^2$의 5종류 다양한 조건 하에서 압축-두께곡선을 측정함으로써 저응력에서 압축특성과 두께, 태를 분석하였다. 최대하중이 증가함에 따라 LC(curve linearity)는 증가하였으며 WC(compressional energy)는 감소하였다. 또한, 최대하중에 따라 RC(compressional resilience)는 변화가 없었다. LC와 WC는 직물이 두꺼울수록 크게 나타났으며 RC는 중간 두께의 직물에서 가장 크게 나타났다. 최대하중 20 $gf/cm^2$에서 측정한 LC와 WC가 주관적 태 평가결과와 가장 상관이 깊었으며 Speamnan's rho는 .86과 .82였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권5호
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• pp.772-778
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• 2006

Silk organza can make the silhouette of clothes bulky and rich, owing to its stiffness. And silk organza in the gum has better dyeability so can be dyed more bright and deeper color than scoured silk because silk organza has sericin gum that has better dyeability than fibroin. So, silk organza came into the most broad use as the material for Hanbok, especially in summer. But the silk organza has poor color fastness. Sericin is removed from organza when silk organza go through scouring. The purpose of this research is to find out the optimum conditions that the scoured silk fabrics can get stiffness by persimmon juice treatment. For experiments, non scoured, partially scoured and fully scoured silk fabrics were prepared by alkali treatments. Then 3 kinds of silk fabrics were treated with the concentration of 1, 5, 10, 50 and 100% of persimmon Juice. The change of fiber surface of the various silk fabrics were observed By SEM. The hand values of those fabric samples also were measured hand values by Kawabata Evaluation System and stiffness by Cantilaver method. By scouring, the silk organza got more flexibility and less cohesiveness between their fibers. And it can be a little more bulky by removing gum. Namely, silk organza lost its unique stiff and crisp handle. By the persimmon juice treatment, tannin component could be coated on the fiber surface. so that the stiffness of the fabrics were improved.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.46-60
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• 2008

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.

• Composites Research
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.13-17
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• 2009

본 연구에서는 컴퓨터 단층촬영 장비의 크레이들에 대한 샌드위치 복합재 3차원 형상을 결정하였고, 유한요소해석을 통해 구조성능 기준을 만족하는 적층 패턴을 제안하였으며, 균일한 X선 투과 성능을 만족하는 생산공법을 제안하였다. 크레이들 설계는 다른 부품과의 공간, 고정 방법, 헤드레스트 부품과의 조립조건을 고려하였다. 정해진 위치에 135 kg 하중이 가해질 때, 크레이들 끝단부 처짐이 20 mm 이하인 기준을 만족하는 적층패턴을 결정하였다. 생산공법 측면에서 우선 카본 소재/폴리에스터 수지로 핸드레이업을 하였으나, 기포 및 과잉수지로 불균일한 X선 투과성능을 보였다. 이를 해결하기 위해 첫 번째 층은 동일소재를 인퓨전 공법으로 하고 나머지 층은 카본 소재/에폭시 수지의 프리프레그 적용으로 X선 투과성능을 개선하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권9호
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• pp.1333-1342
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• 2008

This study intended to evaluate the visual sensibility of textiles of knitting simulation through the painting function of SDS-ONE, a computer knitting system, with the use of various fancy yarns for hand knitting. For this study, six kinds of fancy yarns with difference manufacturing style and form were selected: loop yarn, tamtam yarn, fur1 yarn, fur2 yarn, ladder yarn, and tape yarn. In order to create a computer knitting simulation, paint function of SDS-ONE was employed to scan the fancy yarns for hand knitting with a scanner. Then, after the registration of the yarns as data, the yarn was brought in for knitting simulation in plain stitch with 3 gauge. After that a survey was conducted involving 60 female experts in their twenties. Using SPSS 12.0, factor analysis, reliability, Pearson correlation coefficient, ANOVA, Duncan test, and regression analysis were performed to analyze the collected data. First, according to the result of analyzing the visual sense factor, three factors of the 'inflexibleness/ruggedness sense', 'lightweight sense', and 'smoothness sense' was extracted. According to the result of analyzing the visual sensibility factor, three factors of the 'activity', 'grace', and 'purity' was extracted. Second, With regard to preference and purchase intention, the knitted fabric with tamtam yarn(H2) was preferred than the other samples, indicating that the respondents had intention to purchase it. As for word-of-mouth intention, H2 ranked the first place, implying the respondents had intention to recommend it to other people. Third, the examination of the use of products each knitting simulation knit found that sweater and muffler are the most appropriate knit products. And H2 was the most suitable sample for sweater and muffler products. This study tried to prove that knit textile can be visually evaluated through a computer knitting simulation without the actual knitting and then to provide accurate data to related companies or the academic circle.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.665-671
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• 2005

This study aims to examine the effect of structural properties, subjective textures, sensibilities, and objective handle on the preference for weft knit fabrics, and then to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics through predicting the preference. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation of textures, sensibilities, and preference, we used the questionnaire that had been developed in the previous study. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncann multiple range test and regression analysis. The results are as follows: In relationship of structural properties and preference, we could not recognize any difference in whole ranges of wool/ rayon fiber contents and in 7.5mm and less stitch loop length. On the other hand, we could find the decrease of preference in over 7.5mm stitch loop length. As to subjective textures and sensibilities, a multiple regression analysis of preference indicated a higher determination coefficient by sensibilities than by textures. But there were little correlation between a objective handle and preference of weft knit fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.14-23
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the present condition of cold protective clothing for mailman, to improve its design in movement, fitness, and other functions, and supply basic data for its performance evaluation. The results are as follows : The 46.60% of those questioned did not satisfy current clod protective clothing fer mailman. Especially, they considered dissatisfactory in properties such as waterproof, comfort, activity, and sweat absorption. The newly developed cold protective clothing is two-piece style composed of jacket and pants. Both jacket and pants are composed of inner and outer clothing individually. In both jacket and pants, their outer clothing's material was waterproof, windproof, and breathable shell fabric on which PTFE film laminated and their inner clothing's material was 100% polyester Polar polis to have better insulation property. The jacket has attachable cap which can be used as rain gear and set-in sleeve with stand collar. It also had big outside patch pockets and side seam pockets to ensure enough storage space. The pants have knee pads to give free movement to knees and slant side pockets. Inner clothing of both jacket and pants can be worn during working inside without out clothing. Insulation of the newly developed cold protective clothing was not better than current one except right hand, left hand and left foo. It is considered that is because thickness of material is the most important factor to influence insulation.

• 감성과학
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.327-336
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• 2010

본 연구에서는 텐셀 자카드 직물에 은행나무 추출물(ginkgo biloba extract)과 실리콘 유연제(silicon softener)를 처리 할 때 실리콘유연제를 동시에 처리하는 방법과 은행나무추출액 처리하고 난 후에 다른 bath에서 실리콘유연제를 연속적으로 처리하는 방법 중 어느 것이 더 촉감이나 선호도에 더 영향을 주는지를 찾아내고자 하였다. 따라서 텐셀 자카드 직물에 은행나무추출액과 실리콘유연제를 처리하여 KES-FB system을 통하여 역학적 특성 및 객관적 태의 변화를 살펴보고, 침장용 직물이 가지는 개별 감각 및 종합 감각의 주관적 감성을 평가하였다. 이밖에도 침장용 직물에서 중요하게 여겨지는 소비자의 개별감각 요소를 평가하여 침장용 직물개발의 기초자료를 마련하고자 하였다. 텐셀 자카드 직물에 은행나무추출액과 실리콘유연제를 처리하게 되면 인장특성인 EM, WT, RT는 증가하여 신축성이 있고 형태안정성이 좋아지며, 인장특성 전단특성이 감소하여 유연성이 증가하고, 무게와 두께가 증가로 부피감이 커져, THV는 증가하였다. 주관적 감성 평가 결과 개별감각 중 부드러움, 따뜻함, 탄력감, 부피감은 증가하고 거침은 감소하는 것으로 평가하였다. 또한 부드러움, 부피감, 따듯함을 침장용 직물이 갖는 중요한 개별감각 요소로 평가하였다. 은행나무추출액과 실리콘유연제를 처리할 경우 촉감이 좋아지고 선호도가 높아지는 것으로 평가되었다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.131-144
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyse the structure and contents of clothing construction field in the middle-school textbook of technology and home economics with curriculum revised in 2007. 10 kinds of textbooks certified by Ministry of Education, Science and Technology in 2010 were selected and home economics field in them was the subject of this study with the external characteristics such as textbook system, instruction area and contents included. This study was content analysis-oriented and descriptive with data calculated by frequency and percentage. The findings are as follows. In 'Reality of Home-Life', food life area showed highest as 34.4% followed by clothing life(28.7%) and dwelling life(28.7%). The portion of present teachers in writing staffs was highest while there was no textbook where professors of each field were included in writing staffs. The contents of costume society, clothes material, clothes management from section 'Choice and Management of Clothes' in the chapter 'Family Life' and clothing construction from the section 'Making and Modifying Clothes' of the chapter 'Reality of Home-Life' were analysed in this study. Clothing construction-related fields were suggested separately by method of measurement, construction theory, drafting theory, drafting an original form, fabric trimming, utilization of the original form, length measure, cloth cutting, hand stitching, how to use a sewing machine, basting and correction, needlework process, completion, and evaluation. The contents of the unit 'Making Shorts' were about clothing construction theory, human body measurement, drafting an original form, process of making shorts and activity/research/experience. The contents of the unit 'Wearing Clothes after Fixing' in clothing construction-related field were about how to fix and recycling.