• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.127-136
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• 2007

Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1039-1048
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• 2011

This research develops a basic design structure for scuba diving wetsuits suitable for the shape of Korean men in their 30's as well as enhances the reduction rate for underwater activity. The clothing pressure and fitness tests were performed using four different types of body suits. The usable data of the tests were coded for further statistical analysis that includes one way-ANOVA test and S-N-K Multiple Range Test by using SPSSWIN 17.0. An analysis of the results shows: (1) The results of the clothing pressure test (using a dummy) indicated that the larger the reduction rate, the stronger the clothing pressure gets (with an exception on the knee area). It has great impact on clothing pressure with regards to the different body parts. The different reduction rates should be applied to body parts accordingly. (2) In the case of test subjects, the overall mean values of the clothing pressure were lower than the ones with the dummy (attributable to the cushion function of body skin and muscle as well as the high stretch of the fabric). (3) In evaluating the subjective fit test of four types of body suits, a statistically significant difference was found in the relation between pattern reduction rates and all parts of the body. It was revealed that the reduction rate of 'B' pattern (X: 4%, Y: 3%) was the most suitable pattern and the 'B' pattern scored highest in the motion functional fit test performed by a test subject.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.754-764
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• 2010

Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.209-221
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• 1992

A standpoint art's style, present-day Western dress was establishing a systematic, theoritical value in sphere of fine art's meaning & it's expression on the modern fashion. For this reason, I selected Impressionism (a broad senes: be included Impressionism, Neo-Impressionism, Post-Impressionism) that was designated 'the revolution of color'. In the previous paper, 1 already discussed about the modern fashion under the influence of the color of Impressionism, from this study, Neo-Impressionism's techniques & it's influence on the modern fashion was investigated. The Impressionists had purposely used uneven brushwork & a vivid palette to transmit the intensity & immediacy of nature, whereas the Neo-Impressionists utilized methodically applied dots, a technique commonly described as Pointillism, to achieve their rationalist goal of eliminating the fugitive & the casual in order to seize a more fundamental reality. Of all them, Seurat had already become interested in the posible analogies between science, music & psychology on the on hand & art on the other, and scientist's books & articles offered a wealth of theoretical support. 1'articulary, it was corroborated that effects of sadness, calm, or happiness could be achieved through manipulation of color & design. The conclusions are as follow: 1. Through the modern fashion, a space between pattern & pattern was reflected unstable balances & harmonies, that, Neo-Impressionist emphasized the distinction between outdoor & subject, between elaborately clothed & nude figures, corresponded to modern fashion's pattern. 2. The modern fashion was presented a small border or band within the pattern itself which colors complemented those of the adjacent pictorial surface and mediated between the painted image & its enclosure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.627-637
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• 2014

This study explored the product attributes Vietnamese mothers consider for the purchase of children's wear, the differences of product attributes between groups with different levels of conspicuous consumption, and the extent to which the Korean wave affects the purchasing behavior of children's wear brands. The results are as follows. First, the product attribute that Vietnamese mothers consider most when purchasing children's clothes is the comfort in physical activities. Fabric type and quality, sizing and fit, durability, color, child suitability, design, cutting and construction, price, fashionability, and maintenance and laundering are the other attributes (respectively) that influence the purchase of children's wear. Second, the high conspicuous consumption group considers brand, maintenance and laundering, durability, the reactions of others, and fashionability significantly more than the low conspicuous consumption group. Third, the purchase intention of Korean children's wear brands is affected by the perception of the Korean wave than the influence of the reference group or the tendency of conspicuous consumption. The results show that low prices and practicality were important considerations for children's clothing purchases by Vietnamese mothers; however, brand name and fashionability were more powerful predictors for the high conspicuous consumption group. Those with a high perception of the Korean wave also had a higher intention of Korean children's wear brand, which is indicative of the halo effect of the Korean wave. Thus, Korean children's wear brands that plan to enter the Vietnamese market should make active use of the Korean wave.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.37-49
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to figure out the types and characteristics of the twill damask fabrics through literatures review of both domestic and Chinese documents and records. In addition, the study aims to review the characteristics of the twill damask fabrics found at Sukga Pagoda. The twill damask fabrics can be categorized in terms of the weaving method into Float Pattern on a Tabby Ground, Twill Pattern on a Tabby Ground, Float Pattern on a Twill Ground, Twill Pattern on a Twill Ground, and Without Pattern on a Twill Ground. The fabrics ran also be divided in terms of their name into Ki, Neung, and Munju. Four items of twill damask fabrics were found inside the Sukga Pagoda. All of them are Twill Pattern on a Twill Ground. At the primitive level of weaving skill, twill damask fabric was made by adding patterns with twill damask or BuJik on the background of plain weave. At more advanced level, the fabrics are weaved by making patterns with twill damask or BuJik on the background of twill damask. Compared to the relics of Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, these twill damask fabrics were loosely weaved with relatively thick thread.

• East Asian Journal of Business Economics (EAJBE)
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.71-84
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• 2013

Purpose: The South African government is determined in alleviating poverty while encouraging job creation and protecting the disposable incomes of poor households. This article looks at the challenges that are facing the South African Social Security system and argues that the provision of income security is amongst the most practical expressions of a nation's cohesion and values. Research Design, Data and Methodology: There are seven proposals in the Social Security and Retirement Reform and these proposals are based on the following two principal objectives of the government, that is, to ensure a basic standard of living and to prevent destitution in old age or in circumstances of unemployment or incapacity partly or wholly through redistributive measures, and to encourage savings to provide for the replacement of income on retirement, disablement or death through long-term insurance arrangements. Results: This article evaluates these seven proposals, state old age pension, wage subsidy, mandatory participation in a national social security system for all, mandatory participation in private occupational or individual retirement funds, Voluntary additional contributions to occupational or individual retirement funds, reform of the governance and regulation of the retirement funding industry and reform of the tax system. Conclusion: This article concludes that the population size of South Africa has increased significantly to 51, 8 million in 2011 and therefore the time is right for bold new steps in improving income security of the poor and strengthening the fabric of social solidarity that binds all South Africans together.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.669-676
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• 2020

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3-4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

• Journal of Korean Association for Spatial Structures
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• v.7 no.2 s.24
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• pp.115-124
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• 2007

The initial shape is arrived at by a self-formation process, which accomplishes a form in the natural world, or is determined analytically by considering the equilibrium of initial stress only. Therefore, the self-formation process, which accomplishes a form in the natural world is grasped and the types of modeling techniques available to find the shapes of soft structures are well investigated and classified. To establish a form-finding modeling techniques, the models of string, soap film, fabric, rubber, plaster, and etc. are used. These modeling techniques can be used as a method of understanding the characteristics of structures when the material of model shows similar characteristics. Generally, the model test confirms the structure based on numerical analysis, at the same time it is important preceding process to develop such a program. With the above process, the relationship between model test and numerical analysis becomes a feedback process. Therefore, in this study, two examples which have been accomplished from such a technique are investigated and considered according to modeling process.