• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.266-275
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• 2009

Variations of individual hip shapes are a major obstacle in pattern making for fitness. The drafting method is used for pattern making in today's apparel industry. Whilst catering to a limited number of information such as waist and hip sizes, this method does not cater to variations in hip shape. This paper describes the analysis of hip shapes using 3D body model and tries to make sure the relationship between hip shape and pattern by calculating hip angle and dart amount. We achieved results in analyzing various hip shapes by extracting hip angle. Moreover, various hip shapes can be divided into three types(A, B and C) by the hip angle value($K_{sh}-K_{wsh}$). When we use computerized draping method to make a personalized pattern for a tigth skirt, we easily create complex dart lines automatically. Therefore we achieve the result of individual dart amount such as distance between dart lines and dart areas. C type of hip shape had short dart length, long distance between dart lines and a large amount of dart area. On the other hand, A type had long dart length, short distance between dart lines and small amount of dart area. B type had long length and long distance between dart lines and large amount of dart area. In traditional pattern making, distance between dart lines is usually proportional to amount of dart area because of similarity in dart line shape. In our pattern, there is no proportional relationship between dart line distance and dart area. This means that variations in hip shapes result in a wide variety of dart line curvature resulting in a wide range of dart area. By ensuring an accurate relationship between hip shape and pattern, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1193-1202
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• 1996

This study investigates and analyzes the amount and shape of the front waist dart of the bodice and investigates the dart division method by bust size. Measurements at 5 arm positions were taken from 15 subjects. Clothing tests were given to 6 of the subjects. The conclusions were as follows: 1) Front Body surface changes were occurred around armpit and they were caused by the wrinkles of the armpit 2) The curved dart line was more appropriate for use with C cup, the large bust body, than the linear line. The changes of the dart amount at arm movements had different types by bust size. 3) Patterns for A & C cup body were adequate to divide the dart amount by 3 darts such as under the B.P., under the anterior armpit and side line, or to aggregate to 1 dart under the B.P. For the B cup body, however, the suitable pattern to use was the total dart amount divided by 1~2 darts and decreasing the waist line at the side line should be avoided.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.407-412
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• 2005

This study is to establish the pattern for one piece dress which fits well to the women somatotype with different drop value and is functional and has high body fitness. Selected 2 testers from classified 4 types who were close to the average value and took twice dressing test. After successive correction and revision, patterns of one piece dress for each somatotype were established. M type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm(dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+0.8 cm for front and H/4+0.8 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.5 cm. A type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1.5 cm for front and H/4+1 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.2 cm. X type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2 cm for back. Waist line is W/4+2+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+1+2+1.4 cm(for two darts amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1 cm for front and H/4+1.3cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. H type; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2cm for back. Waist line is W/4+1.7+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+2 cm for front and H/4+1.5 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. In order to achieve the objective evaluation on a new pattern in this study, the sensory evaluation for both Imwonja pattern and a new pattern in this study was completed. As a result of sensory evaluation, a new pattern of this study could accomplished a good appearance in reflecting characteristics of each types and could achieved the functional superiority than comparison pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.73-87
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to find the Dart Manipulation with good fitting and evaluate the aesthetics of Dart Manipulation that is used in the designs of the original tops for women in their 30's. Subsequently, it suggests dart manipulation with good body fitting and physical fitness when designing original tops. The findings of this study are as follows. First, in the fitting of Dart Manipulation for different body types, cross direction Dart Manipulation received good marks in the Square Body Type while mixed direction and diagonal direction Dart Manipulation received high evaluation in the Standard Body Type. Also, for the Reverse Triangle Body Type, mixed direction Dart Manipulation received high marks. Since there are only small changes in fitting for the Square Body Type, the position of Dart Manipulation should be determined in regards to the aesthetic view as well as the fitting of the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type. Second, in the fitness of Dart Manipulation for different body types, an approach from the aesthetic view should be considered for Square Body Types because of the differences in fitness according to the position of dart manipulation. The fitness should be considered when positioning Dart Manipulation for the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type because of these differences. Third, for the greater variance of drop for these different body types, the change of the amount of dart received lower evaluation in fitting since the amount of dart increased when the dart was located higher than B.P. The number of dart should likely increase when gathering or tucking is necessary when there is an excessive amount of dart in Dart Manipulation for the different body types. Fourth, as for the changes of wrinkles in accordance with the body type, wrinkles were likely to be formed at the breast or neck area when there was a larger difference in drop. To prevent such problems, one more dart should be made on the wrinkle. In conclusion, the study suggests designing the original top with a better look and comfort by setting the balance between aesthetics and fitting in the design stage.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.117-130
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• 2005

Western clothing is adjusted to the figures of the human body unlike Korean traditional clothes. For this adjustment, we need a method, known as dart, to reasonably adjust a wide circumference to curves of the human body. So far, there has been some research in the aspect of clothing engineering on how to decide darts of skirts or trousers, but no theoretical research has yet been conducted on how to decide the number and amount of dart, which has caused difficulties in beginners' understanding of dart. Futhermore, there is no consistent drawing method for the number and amount of darts in existing teaching and teaming materials. Therefore, to develop teaching and teaming methods for darts, this study identified the amount and number of darts for waist girth of 66-72cm and a hip girth of 86-102cm. When the difference between the waist girth and the hips girth, including margins, is above a minimum of 26cm, two darts can be designed, but when the difference is below 24cm, one dart is necessary. The amount of darts increases by 0.5cm for every 2cm increase of the hip girth to the waist girth. In addition, as darts become longer, the cutting of the waist line becomes smoother. For one, rather than two, darts the curve of the waist line is steeper. Based on the above results, it was assured that when belts are curved through adjustment to the waist line of skirts or slacks, their composition can be stable. Therefore, in basic teaching about slacks and skirts, the number and amount of the darts should be designed according to the difference between the girths of the waist and the hip. This difference should be a minimum of 24cm, but if it is below 24cm, the number of darts needed is one.

• ETRI Journal
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.202-212
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• 2017

With the advent of the Internet-of-Things paradigm, the amount of data production has grown exponentially and the user demand for responsive consumption of data has increased significantly. Herein, we present DART, a fast and lightweight stream processing framework for the IoT environment. Because the DART framework targets a geospatially distributed environment of heterogeneous devices, the framework provides (1) an end-user tool for device registration and application authoring, (2) automatic worker node monitoring and task allocations, and (3) runtime management of user applications with fault tolerance. To maximize performance, the DART framework adopts an actor model in which applications are segmented into microtasks and assigned to an actor following a single responsibility. To prove the feasibility of the proposed framework, we implemented the DART system. We also conducted experiments to show that the system can significantly reduce computing burdens and alleviate network load by utilizing the idle resources of intermediate edge devices.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.146-165
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• 2016

The aim of the study is to propose ways to improve the break line fit of women's tailored collar vests by modifying the patternmaking process. The study explored the fit effects of experimental vests with a focus on 3 different breast sizes, A, B, and C cups. Women in the ages between 20 and 24 in South Korea were targeted. In order to carry out the objective, the study implemented separate girth measurements for the front and the back of the tailored collar vests, and also allocated different dart amounts on the lapel through the break line according to the different breast cup sizes. The study adopted a 5-point rating scale to perform evaluation of the different fit effects caused by the varying dart amounts given on the experimental vests' break lines. This evaluation was carried out by apparel pattern experts. The results derived from the study were as follows: first, the implementation of separate girth measurements provided originality to the study, as the application of different measurements for the waist back length and the neck shoulder point-to-breast point-to-waist line led to the front panels of the experimental vests having varying slack amounts. Second, break line dart was applied in three different amounts, 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5cm respectively according to A, B and C breast sizes, and as the dart amount increased, extra ease on the break lines was reduced. The dart was applied on the edge lines of the lapel and it was applied from a point which was 6cm above the breast point to the end of the princess line for all the breast cup sizes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.140-158
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• 1999

The purposes of this study are to examine the characters of the lower body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks pattern on the base of four difference body shapes. The lower body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouettes. The slacks patterns were based on the lower body shape characters and resulted in followings. In “Type 1” of the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(2.5㎝) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.5㎝+dart(3.5㎝). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-0.5㎝ due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. In the experimental pattern of “Type 2” with prominent hips, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0㎝ and 2.0㎝ separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+1.0㎝+fold(2.0㎝), the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.1㎝+dart(6.5㎝), the front hip girth H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. In “Type 3” with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(4.5㎝) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+dart(3.0㎝). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.5㎝-0.5㎝. In “Type 4” with prominent abdomen and hips, considered were ① the increased front fold amount due to the abdominal protrusion, ② the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and ③ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5㎝+2.0㎝+fold(5.0㎝), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5㎝-2.0㎝+dart(4.0㎝), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Proceedings of the ESK Conference
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• 1997.10a
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• pp.40-55
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• 1997

The purpose of this study are to examine the characters of the lower half body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks patttern on the base of four difference body shapes as follows. The lower half body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouette, whose characters were summarized as followings. (1) "Type 1" meant the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips. (2) "Type 2" showed the body shape with prominent hips, which had the flat abdominal silhouette and the greatly curved hips silhouette. (3) "Type 3" was the body shape with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, in which the frontal view silhouette of the abdomen was greatly curved and the rear view silhouette of hips is less curved. (4) "Type 4" was characterized with prominent abdomen and hips. The slaks patterns were based on the lower half body shape characters and resulted in followings. (1) In the type 1, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4{\times}0.5cm+0.5cm+fold(2.5cm) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-0.5cm+dart(3.5cm). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-0.5cm due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. (2) In the type 2 experimental pattern, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0cm and 2.0cm separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+ 1.0cm+fold(2.0cm), the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-1.0cm+dart(6.5cm), the front hip girth H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. (3) In type 3, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+fold (4.5cm) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+dart(3.0cm). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.5cm-0.5cm. (4) In type 4, considered were $\circled1$ the increased fornt fold amount due to the abdonimal protrusion, $\circled2$ the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and $\circled3$ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5cm+2.0cm+flod (5.0cm), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5cm-20.cm+dart(4.0cm), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.467-476
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop a plausible methodology based on experimental data how to set up darts and split lines on 3D parametric body dressed with tight-fit garment. The results were as following: Through the process of making convex hull, the concave parts were straightened to make a convex hull, especially in the center part of bust, under breast part and scapular part. To figure out the optimum positions of darts and split lines, the inflection points of curve ratio were searched along the horizontal polylines of waist and bust. This procedures produced reliable results with low deviation. Using Rapidform, CATIA and Unigraphics, six patches of bodice patterns were drawn and aligned. Paired t-test results showed the outline and area between 3D surface and 2D were not significantly different, meaning this method could be adaptable when flattening 3D surfaces. The amount of waist dart measured on the pattern showed that the highest portion was allocated on 2nd dart(back), followed by 1st dart(back), 1st dart(front), 2nd dart(front)/side dart, and center back dart. A series of findings suggested that curve ration inflection point could be used as a guide to set up darts and split line on 3D parametric model with low deviation.