A Study on the Waist Dart of Front Bodice Pattern according to Body Surace Changes at Arm Movements

팔동작시 체표변화에 따른 앞길원형의 허리다트에 관한 연구

This study investigates and analyzes the amount and shape of the front waist dart of the bodice and investigates the dart division method by bust size. Measurements at 5 arm positions were taken from 15 subjects. Clothing tests were given to 6 of the subjects. The conclusions were as follows: 1) Front Body surface changes were occurred around armpit and they were caused by the wrinkles of the armpit 2) The curved dart line was more appropriate for use with C cup, the large bust body, than the linear line. The changes of the dart amount at arm movements had different types by bust size. 3) Patterns for A & C cup body were adequate to divide the dart amount by 3 darts such as under the B.P., under the anterior armpit and side line, or to aggregate to 1 dart under the B.P. For the B cup body, however, the suitable pattern to use was the total dart amount divided by 1~2 darts and decreasing the waist line at the side line should be avoided.