• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.331-338
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• 2020

Background: The aim of this study was to analyze the total phenol and total flavonoid contents and antioxidant activity of steam-treated leaves and rhizomes of Polygonatum sibiricum Redoute. In addition, we aimed to confirm their potential use as cosmetic materials by investigating their anti-aging and skin-whitening activity. Methods and Results: The leaves and rhizomes of P. sibiricum were treated with steam at different temperatures for different durations, and the antioxidant activity (DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activity) and total phenol and total flavonoid contents of each sample were tested. The steam temperature and treatment duration siginificantly affected the antioxidant activity and, total phenol and total flavonoid content of the leaves and rhizome of P. sibiricum. Treating the P. sibiricum samples with steam at 120℃ for 12 h, yielded higher total phenol and total flavonoid contents. Comparatively, the samples treated with steam at 120℃ for 12 to 24 h showed significantly higher antioxidant activity. Further, the steamed samples of P. sibiricum demonstrated collagenase and tyrosinase inhibition activity, which indicated their anti-aging and skin-whitening properties. The samples steamed at 120℃ for 12 h, exhibited higher collagenase and tyrosinase inhibition activity. Conclusions: Leaves and rhizomes of P. sibiricum steamed at 120℃ for 12 h, showed highest antioxidant activity and, total phenol and total flavonoid contents than all other samples. Our results indicate the potential of using P. sibiricum as a cosmetic material by confirming its excellent anti-aging and whitening activity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.4
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• pp.339-348
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate the possible use of the Boehmeria nivea var. nipononivea extract and fractions for the development of natural cosmetic ingredients. The leaves of B. nivea var. nipononivea, extracted by 70% ethanol, were sequentially fractionated with n-hexane, dichloromethane, ethylacetate, and n-butanol. As a result of DPPH and ABTS test, ethyl acetate fractionation was shown to be excellent in radical scavenging activity. For the antimicrobial activities against Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Cutibacterium acnes and antibiotic resistant strains, MIC and birth control rate were observed by paper disc method. In the antibacterial activity by the disc diffusion assay against S. aureus, S. epidermidis and C. acnes, the dichloromethane and ethylacetate fraction showed stronger antibacterial activity than the other fractions and extract. Moreover, the ethylacetate fraction showed strong nitric oxide (NO) production inhibitory effect in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 cell. In conclusion, we found that B. nivea var. nipononivea extract was not cytotoxic and showed antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. These results suggest that the Boehmeria nivea var. nipononivea extract and fractions could be applied as an effective cosmetic material with antioxidant activity.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.448-455
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• 2003

Because cosmetics are applied directly to human skin, contamination of such products by microorganisms should be carefully avoided. Since cosmetics are usually kept at room temperature and contain large amounts of nitrogen and carbon sources, they may easily become contaminated by a variety of microorganisms, such as bacteria, filamentous fungi, and yeasts. The rapid and accurate identification of these microorganisms is essential to prevent further expansion of such contamination and the damage it causes. However, more than 30 days and laboratory skills are usually necessary in order to identify microorganisms in cosmetic materials. These time and labor constraints may allow further damage of the cosmetic products and thereby harm the consumer.(omitted)

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.148-156
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• 2018

Background: Hot steaming is known to be effective in improving the biological activities of plant extracts by breaking down useful compounds to low molecular weight ones. Methods and Results: This study aimed to develop an optimal extraction and steam processing method for enhancing the low molecular ginsenoside contents of the adventitious roots culture of wild mountain ginseng. The total ginsenoside was optimally extracted when 70% EtOH was used at $50^{\circ}C$, whereas low molecule ginsenoside such as Rg2, Rh1, Rh4 and Rk1 could be extracted using 70% EtOH at $70^{\circ}C$. The adventitious roots culture of wild mountain ginseng is known to contain four major ginsenosides, i.e., Rb2, Rb1, Rg1 and Rd, however new ginsenosides Rg6, Rh4, Rg3, Rk1 and Rg5 were new abundantly obtaind after steam processing method was applied. The contents of total ginsenosides were the highest when thermal steam processing was conducted at $120^{\circ}C$ for 120 min. Unlike ginsenosides such as Rg1, Re, Rb1, Rc, Rb2, and Rh1, which decreased after steam processing, Rg3, Rk1, and Rg5 increased after thermal processing. Steam processing significanltly reduced the content of Rb1, increased that of Rg6 by about ten times than that in the adventitious roots culture of wild mountain ginseng. Conclusions: Our study showed that the optimal extraction and steam processing method increased the content of total ginsenosides and allowed the extraction of minor ginsenosides from major ones.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.260-275
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• 2020

Background: We investigated the antioxidant, anti-wrinkles, whitening, and moisturizing properties and amounts of phenolic compounds of ethanol extracts from flowers of 10 resource plants from Namwon and Mt. Jiri., Korea. Methods and Results: We measured antioxidant efficacy based on the total polyphenol, and total flavonoid content, and the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. We evaluated the inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity for the whitening effect. Furthermore, we analyzed the elastase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibition activity for anti-wrinkle capacity. To evaluate the moisturizing effect, we examined hyaluronan synthase (HAS) mRNA expression. In addition, the 19 phenolic compounds were detected using high performace liquid chromatography (HPLC). Among the 10 flowers, the antioxidant effect was high in the order of Rosa multiflora, Nelumbo nucifera, and Elsholtzia splendens. Whitening effect was high in the order of N. nucifera, R. multiflora, and Dendranthema zawadskii. As for the anti-wrinkle property, N. nucifera was the most effective followed by R. multiflora. Taraxacum coreanum was the best for moisturizing effect, followed by D. zawadskii, and E. splendens. Seven phenolic compounds were detected in the extracts of the 10 flowers. Conclusions: Overall, the extracts of five flowers extracts showed strong potential as antioxidant, whitening, anti-wrinkle, and moisturizing functional cosmetic agents.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.84-91
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• 2021

This study was carried out to investigate the melanin synthesis inhibitory effect of Aspergillus fumigatus fermented extract. In this study, we revealed the effects of A. fumigatus fermented extract on melanin contents, mushroom tyrosinase activity, and expression levels of mRNA and proteins of melanogenesis-related gene in B16F10 melanoma cells. A. fumigatus fermented extract inhibited both melanin contents and tyrosinase activity. In addition, the expression level of mRNA or proteins of melanogenesis was down-regulated in the A. fumigatus fermented extract treated B16F10 cells with dose-dependent manner. Moreover, when the clinical test was conducted, it was confirmed that the use of the fermented extract of A. fumigatus for 8 weeks improved skin brightness 1.586 times brighter and skin melanin 1.331 times better compared to the control product. Taken together, our results suggest that A. fumigatus fermented extract has melanogenesis inhibitory effect and whitening activity, thus it showed the possibility for using as a functional whitening cosmetic resource.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.371-378
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• 2020

Background: In this study, the radix of Astragalus membranaceus Bunge extract fermented by Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Weissella cibaria, and Pediococcus pentosaceus to increase the levels of isoflavonoid aglycone contents. Methods and Results: In order to change the in isoflavonoids, we fermented the radix of A. membranaceus extracts with microorganisms that have β-glucosidase activity. Besed on the β-glucosidase activity, we selected three strains, Weissella cibaria, Pediococcus pentosaceus, and Saccharomyces cerevisiae. HPLC analysis revealed that the levels of isoflavonoid aglycones were increased in all fermentation cases, and the extracts fermented by S. cerevisiae showed the highest levels of isoflavonoid aglycones. We evaluated the antioxidant activity, anti-wrinkle effects and whitening effects of the S. cerevisiae-fermented extracts using the DPPH assay, tyrosinase inhibition activity assay, and collagenase inhibition activity assay. We confirmed higher activity in S. cerevisiae-fermented extracts than in control, with the half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) value of 565.1 ± 59.1 ㎍/㎖ in DPPH radical scavenging activity, tyrosinase inhibition rate of 78.4 ± 0.9%, and collagenase inhibition rate of 83.8 ± 1.1%. Conclusions: We selected three stains of microorganisms showing high β-glucosidase activity, W. cibaria, P. pentosaceus and S. cerevisiae. Isoflavonoid glycones in the radix of A. membranaceus were converted to isoflavonoid aglycones by fermentation. In addition, the fermented radix of A. membranaceus exhibited antioxidant activity, anti-wrinkle effect, whitening effect and radical scavenging activity.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.170-180
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• 2018

Background: To obtain useful cosmetic resources, this study aimed to determine the non-saponin fatty acid and inhibitory activities of collagenase and elastase by treatment of Saccharomyces cerevisiae in supercritical fluid extracted oil of the adventitious root culture of wild mountain ginseng. Methods and Results: We performed supercritical fluid extraction at various conditions such as pressure, temperature, time, and use of co-solvents, unlike the n-hexane extraction for the adventitious roots culture of wild mountain ginseng. The non-saponin-fatty acid obtained from the oil of the adventitious roots culture was incresed by treatment with S. cerevisiae. The supercritical fluid extraction was conducted using gas chromatography. Non-saponin-fatty acid content, in the oil of adventitious roots culture of wild mountain ginseng treated with S. cerevisiae for 2 days were three times higher than that in the control. In addition, the oil of the adventitious roots culture treated with S. cerevisiae was investigated for the anti-wrinkle effect by using collagenase and elastase. The oil of adventitious roots culture treated with S. cerevisiae exhibited higher collagenase and elastase inhibitory activities than those in the control. Conclusions: Supercritical fluid extracted oil of the adventitious roots culture of wild mountain ginseng treated with S. cerevisiae was found to have decreased ratio of saturated fatty acids and incresed ratio and content of unsaturated fatty acids increased. Furthermore, it showed anti-wrinkle effects in vitro.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.119-126
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• 2018

Background: The flowering plant Hippophae rhamnoides L. has been used for many studies on fruit or leaf extracts. This study was conducted to investigate the development of a new cosmetic material from H. rhamnoides fruits and leaves that have by antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and wrinkle improvement activities. Methods and Results: The antioxidant abilities of H. rhamnoides extracts, including of a water-soluble fruit powder (FW), a fatsoluble fruit powder (FF), a supercritical extract of fruit by-product (BS), and a mixture of leaf and fruit (MIX), were investigated in vitro. A DPPH radical assay for antioxidant activity was performed for these fractions alongside assay to evaluate the total phenolic and flavonoid content (TPC and TFC). As expected, the MIX had the highest DPPH radical scavenging activity ($RC_{50}=10.27{\mu}g/m{\ell}$), and the TPC and TFC also were highest in MIX ($225.7mg{\cdot}GAE/g$, and $25.18mg{\cdot}QE/g$, respectively). Nitric oxide (NO) production in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells was estimated and the results indicated an over 75% decrease of NO production in FF and MIX. In other assays, the highest elastase inhibitory activity was found in FW. Conclusions: These results revealed that H. rhamnoides extracts have a high potential for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antiwrinkle activities. H. rhamnoides products are suggested to be applied as the functional materials of cosmetic ingredients.

• Korean Journal of Agricultural Science
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.499-508
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• 2018

To use mountain ginseng adventitious roots (MGAR), which is superior in functionality compared to ginseng, and to mass produce raw materials as a functional cosmetic material, the antioxidant and cosmeceutical activities of the extracts of MGAR at different ethanol concentrations (0, 20, 40, 60 and 80%) were compared and analyzed. At first, different ethanol concentrations were compared to determine the best solvent for the extraction of phenolic compounds from MGAR. An 80% ethanol extract with 10.07 mg of gallic acid equivalents/g sample and 0.94 mg of quercetin equivalents/g sample was the best solvent in the extraction of phenolic compounds. However, the 60% ethanol extract had the highest antioxidant activity, evident by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging, Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (35.01 mM Trolox/g sample) and ferric reducing antioxidant power (460.94 mM $FeSO_4/g$ sample). However, the inhibitory activities of the 80% ethanol extract from the MGAR against tyrosinase and elastase were higher than those of the other extracts. The results of this study show that the extract of MGAR can be used as an easily accessible source of natural antioxidant and as a possible cosmetic ingredient in the cosmeceutical industry. However, the components responsible for the antioxidant and cosmeceutical activities of the MGAR extracts are currently unclear. Therefore, it is suggested that further studies should be carried out to isolate and identify the antioxidant and cosmeceutical components in MGAR.